Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Czapek – ANTARCTIQUE Titanium “Dark Sector” Edition


CzapekANTARCTIQUE Titanium "Dark Sector" Automatic Edition 2023

Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector
Czapek
& Cie unveils a study in magic greys

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Czapek & Cie has launched a brand new model in its Antarctique collection. This new three-hand timepiece takes a serene, geometrical approach to the display of time and remains true to the company’s dedication to top-tier manufacturing and finishing. 

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Every watch is essentially subjected to two sets of fundamental laws. The first is mechanics, which means everything must function like clockwork, quite literally. The second is aesthetics and is far more subjective: a watch must be visually attractive, provocative, seductive.  

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Czapek’s latest launch, the Antarctique Titanium ‘Dark Sector’, strikes a perfectly symbiotic balance between these two poles. It is driven by the tried-and-true SHX5, and its dial was designed for excellent readability and viewing pleasure.

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The key to this Antarctique’s appeal is in the careful use of space. A traditional minute track has been discreetly placed around the edge of a smooth anthracite dial. It surrounds a double row of lightly arched parallel segments that are interrupted at each numeral. 

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The sword hour hand points to the gaps like a ship seeking entrance into a harbour, while the minute and second hands sweep the dial each at their own pace, closing the gaps for a moment. This creates a kind of animation, a slight change in the visual geometry. 

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"The idea is simple, but requires great precision to execute," says CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. "The hands crossing from segment over the dusky backdrop of the dial looks almost like a shoreline seen from far above. The dial was designed in such a way that the marker becomes the void between each sector (an almost philosophical way of defining matter. This spontaneously inspired the model's name "Dark Sector", which comes from the Dark Sector Laboratory and telescopes at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. The skies over Antarctica are the clearest and darkest in the world..."

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The Antarctique Titanium ‘Dark Sector’ emerged naturally from the collection’s elegant case and bracelet of brushed titanium with the sensually rounded crown protector. These shades of grey inspired the model’s overall monochrome scheme, which highlights the two touches of colour on the dial, namely the red dot at twelve o’clock, and the tip of the second hand. The watch runs on Czapek's robust automatic calibre SXH5, the first to be entirely conceived in-house. It is driven by a microrotor of recycled platinum and provides up to sixty hours of autonomy. 

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The SXH5.01 automatic caliber is the first to be entirely conceived in-house by Czapek from a blank page. Every part of it has been made with care to detail and with the help of the top Swiss manufacturing partners and craftsmen, la crème de la crème, the magnificent orchestra directed by Czapek in the We Collect Rare People spirit. 

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The microrotor, is placed off-center to allow a plunging view into the mechanism and its exceptional architecture. A free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia provided by four gold adjustable weights enables the highest level of precision tuning. The gear train is held in place by a series of seven handsome skeletonized bridges. 

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Their original shape is reminiscent of lace, inspired on one side by XIX century pocket watches, and by the very modern Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph’s rotor. The movement has superlative finishing on the bridges that merges Haute Horlogerie angling techniques with state-ot-the-art laser engravings. Since the unveiling of its base movement in May, Czapek & Cie has been continually making improvements to its automatic caliber SXH5 to enhance its precision, performance, and aesthetic. The first upgrade has been to the micro-rotor that was previously in recycled 18-karat gold.

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Our watch’s designer and constructor decided to try a slightly larger rotor in platinum – 100% recycled - which brought 25% more power to the movement. The second upgrade came with a complete change of ball bearings under the micro-rotor. Both upgrades raised the train efficiency to 90% to fully wind the single barrel and deliver the impressive 60 hours of power reserve. This is a significantly longer autonomy than the average high-end sports watches

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In fine watchmaking, every little detail counts. Besides the exceptional SHX5 movement and the sleek and sharp design of the case or the dial, a great deal of attention was put on the bracelet. The feeling when placed on the wrist, the comfort in every situation and lightness are as important as the timepiece visual and technical qualities. 
 
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The capability to be forgotten by its wearer and to suddenly reveal its stunning beauty create an intensely pleasurable dichotomy. This is why the Antarctique Dark Sector is equipped by an ergonomic brushed integrated bracelet in Grade 5 Titanium, whose links mesh to form a brushed "C" for Czapek. This bracelet also features a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to extend its length by few millimeters in an instant.

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But there’s more. An additional strap is provided, as Czapek has developed an exclusive quick-change system allowing the wearer to switch from one strap to another in a minute. A large choice of straps is now offered to provide a maximum versatility and playful experience. 
 
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Rubber straps whose pattern recalls the "Stairway to Eternity" design on the Passage de Drake dial are available in black, white, dark blue, light blue, red, orange or dark grey. Alternatively, a selection of soft calf straps with contrasting topstitches can be chosen.

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An exhibition case reveals the fine architecture, with seven bridges that hark back to 19th-century pocket watch movements. The movement's height of 4.5millimeters means that this new model is as sportive and elegant as all others in the Antarctique family. The Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector will be available in a limited yearly production of 100 pieces at Czapek's authorized dealers worldwide, its flagship store in Geneva and at Czapek.com


 The Titanium Dark Sector will be available to buy at Czapek.com, and at the brand's official retailer network starting on APRIL 1st 2023 AT 3PM CET. It is priced at 32'000 CHF before taxes.

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About Czapek & Cie
 

François Czapek was a Czech-born Polish watchmaker who fled to Geneva in 1832 after fighting in the Polish uprising. He immediately started his own atelier and in 1839 entered into a partnership with Antoine Norbert de Patek, introducing him to the world of watchmaking. In 1845, at the end of their partnership, he created Czapek & Cie and achieved considerable success. He became the official watchmaker of Napoleon III and opened, what was most likely the first watchmaking boutique on the Place Vendome in Paris. 

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He wrote a book about watchmaking, but unfortunately, he died before publishing a second one. Czapek & Cie has been revived in 2015 with an exceptional collection, whose leading model won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva in November 2016. This collection takes its inspiration from an 1850’s Czapek time piece. It features a beautiful enamel dial and a 7-day proprietary movement perfectly combining craftsmanship with design and exclusivity with rarity. The Company second collection, a suspended Tourbillon with a second time-zone, was launched one year later in 2017, while the first Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The company is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   GARRICK Antarctique Titanium “Dark SectorEdition

Titanium case, grey brass dial with registered segments design.
Micro-rotor SXH5 caliber, entirely conceived in-house by Czapek & Cie. 
Limited edition of 100 pieces

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MOVEMENT
- Calibre SXH5: Czapek's in house self-winding mechanical movement
- Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines ¼
- Height: 4.2 mm
- Number of parts: 193
- Jewels: 28
- Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance fitted with four gold inertia-blocks
- Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
- Power winding system: Micro rotor with an 18K recycled gold mass
- Power-reserve > 56 hours on one single barrel
- Barrel torque: 8.8 Nmm
FINISH
- Open ratchet, sandblasted black bridges, bevelling, straight-grained sides, six hand-chamfered inward angles
FUNCTIONS
- Hours, Minutes & Seconds
CASE
- 40.5mm brushed Grade 5 titanium case
- Height: 10.6 mm
- Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment
- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
- Water resistance: 120m
- Screwed-down crown
- Watch weight: 95g
DIAL
- Anthracite grey brass dial with velouté finish and exclusive registered segments design
- Luminescent, steel "Sword" hands
BRACELET
- Integrated brushed titanium bracelet with Czapek exclusive "Easy Release" system and micro-adjustment device
- Additional calf leather or rubber strap

PRODUCTION
- Limited edition of 100 pieces maximum
- Online subscription only, ending APRIL 1st 2023 AT 3PM CET.

INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTION PRICE
- CHF 32’000 or $ 36’000 (US duties incl.)

🔰Edition - Only of ✅ 100 pieces

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Press Release - 2023
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | jane@czapek.com (UK)
Tel.  +41 79 314 08 54
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Czapek.com

Monday, March 27, 2023

De Bethune – DB Eight Chronograph Titanium Edition

 

De Bethune CURRENT DB Eight Mono Pusher Chronograph Titanium Edition 2023

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De Bethune announces its 31st in-house calibre with the release of the DB Eight. Dedication to the pursuit of perfection continues to produce excellence within the Manufacture.

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Geneva, 26 March 2023 – De Bethune proudly announces the DB Eight. Its monopusher chronograph continues a long tradition of classic single-button chronographs, including the DB1 and DB8.

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In the early days of De Bethune, founders David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet were fond of saying that "to compose contemporary music, you have to have a perfect command of classical music." This is why De Bethune began by creating classical watches based on the fundamental principles of classical watchmaking and by mastering all its subtleties. This is how all technical and artistic innovations are born.

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Twenty years later, Denis Flageollet decided to intensify his research and revisit his classics with Claire Wolf, his right-hand person to whom he has been passing on his knowledge and codes for over 14 years.

The DB Eight, an evolution

The DB Eight is an evolution in De Bethune's exploration of the single-pusher chronograph. While the DB28 Maxichrono is De Bethune's most technically unusual chronograph, the Maison’s very first watch featuring this function – the DB1 – was a classic two-counter monopusher chronograph in the purest tradition of stylish 20th century chronographs.

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In a quest to bring an idea launched 20 years ago to fruition, De Bethune has now poured all its technical and aesthetic expertise into releasing a chronograph on a par with its high demands.

Pared-down design

The DB Eight was born of a quest for elegance and a pure, subtly balanced design. Together, Denis Flageollet and Claire Wolf designed a supremely refined classic guilloché dial and developed a brand-new chronograph calibre by placing its counter at 6 o'clock so that it could be as large as possible in order to provide a highly readable 60-minute indication.

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When the chronograph is reset to zero, the tail of the chronograph hand subtly covers that of the minutes counter in such a way that the hands are overlaid.

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A very symmetrical and distinguished result for a watch housing one of watchmaking’s most demanding mechanisms.

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This perfectly designed maxi dial, framed by a slender bezel and a delicate railway-type outer seconds track endows this 42 mm watch with both undeniable elegance and perfect legibility.

DB3000, 31st in-house calibre

Beating inside is a new chronograph calibre: the 31st produced by De Bethune and its fourth monopusher chronograph base calibre after the DB1, DB8 and Maxichrono.

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Denis Flageollet and Claire Wolf chose to develop a classic column-wheel mechanism equipped with an instantaneous minutes counter, which is quite a technical feat for a single-pusher calibre with a 60-minute counter. The extreme thinness of the wheel’s teeth makes it a veritable technical challenge.

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Although the calibre remains traditional, the technology of the functions is on the cutting edge of the knowledge acquired by the Manufacture. All the elements of the escapement and balance are based on the finest elements featured in De Bethune calibres, notably its patented balance-spring with flat terminal curve, titanium balance with white gold inertia-blocks, along with the silicon escape-wheel.

Grade 5 titanium case

Demonstrating the greatest respect for the traditions of Manufacture De Bethune as well as the history of classical watchmaking, the DB Eight perfectly combines technical progress, state-of-the-art materials, refined design and a harmonious movement.

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Its pure design features all-titanium exterior elements including the case middle, case-back, bezel and hands. This results in an extremely pleasant light feel for the wearer and is highly unusual for a traditional watch.

Back to roots

It should be noted that this return to roots 20 years on was in some ways predictable, given that Denis Flageollet often wears an original platinum DB8. The aim was to perfect performance and intensify the experience for passionate owners.

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The new DB Eight is both an update of a beloved classic and a versatile new timepiece well suited to everyday wear: an expression of the pursuit of performance and beauty inherent in all De Bethune watchmaking.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB 8 Edition

 Limited edition of 10 numbered pieces

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Reference:  DB8RETIS1

Movement : DB3000
Type : Mechanical manual-winding caliber
Adjustement : Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Monopusher button integrated in the crown for chronograph
functions
Technical features of caliber DB3000
Number of parts : 281
Jewelling : 31 jewels
Diameter : 30 mm
Power reserve : 60 hours
Specificities : Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Frequency : 28'800 vibrations per hour
Adornment : All steels are hand-beveled and polished
Chromium-plated steel chronograph bridges with drawn lines
Hand-snailed barrels
Handmade finishing decorations 
Functions : Hours, Minutes, chronograph mono pusher button with 60 s seconds
counter and 60 min instantaneous minute counter
Display
Display : Hour hands, minutes, polished titanium seconds and minutes counters
Dial
Silver, radiating guilloche 12 sectors. 
Blue arabic numbers. 
Indication of the 60-minute counter by a silvered barley grain engine-turned sub-dial at 6 o'clock.
Case
Case material : Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter : 42.4 mm
Thickness : 9,2 mm
Lugs : Ogival lugs
Crystal : Saphir crystal (1 800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Case back : Open back
Saphir crystal (1 800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance : 3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle :  Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

🔰 Edition of ✅only 10 pieces
🔴Price: 85,680 EUR 💰

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Press release -- Geneva 2023
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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www.DeBethune.ch