H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel

   

H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel 2023

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The H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar is widely considered to be the most legible and easy to set on the market, as it can be adjusted both forwards and backwards at any time of day. In 2023, H. Moser & Cie. introduces this iconic model with a tantalum case – the first ever use of this rare and prestigious metal in the brand's history. 

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In shades of anthracite and blue, this unique material is enhanced by the ancestral technique of enamelling, featuring vibrant colours and an ultra-contemporary hammered texture to bring the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel to life.

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Discovered in 1802 by Swede Anders Gustav Ekeberg, tantalum is a highly dense and extremely strong metal. Tantalum surfaces in contact with air develop a fine layer of oxidation that protects the metal against aggression. Tantalum offers anti-corrosive properties, and does not react with most chemical agents or dissolve in acid. 

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This extremely malleable metal is both hard and ductile, which means it can be easily drawn out and worked with precision and finesse. With a melting point of around 3000 °C, it requires advanced metallurgical expertise to machine. Its very dark grey colour is enhanced by bluish reflections, and does not tarnish. An exceptionally stable metal, tantalum combines beauty with durability.

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And, as Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., explains, while it certainly offers some interesting special properties, it was also a personal choice: "When I was 18, my parents gave me my first Haute Horology watch, which was made from tantalum. Ever since then, I have dreamed of introducing this metal at H. Moser & Cie., in spite of the challenges it poses. It took more than two years of testing before we were able to polish the surfaces of our case, a feat that few have been able to match, with most preferring to sandblast or satin-finish tantalum".

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An iconic model, the perpetual calendar by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. The absence of a subdial and date disc makes it very easy to read. 

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With the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. takes its minimalist philosophy even further by removing the brand logo and all indices except for those at 12 and 6 o'clock, in order to showcase the full beauty of the "Grand Feu" enamel dial.

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Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, four different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation.

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A translucent "Grand Feu" enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect. Each dial is unique. The finish is remarkable: resolutely contemporary, with a particularly complex texture and an intense hue christened Abyss Blue.

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At the centre, the small hand indicates the months, while a very large date window at 3 o'clock, with the "Flash Calendar" function providing an instant date change at midnight and a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock displaying the movement's seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the crown, and can be changed at any time of the day.

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H. Moser & Cie. has revolutionised the perpetual calendar by transforming a complication designed for the most discerning of collectors into a watch that even a child could operate. The resulting aesthetic is instantly recognisable, proving that real luxury is a question of identity – even without obvious markers.

The unmistakeable H. Moser style of irreverent Haute Horlogerie.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar Blue Enamel

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Reference 1800-2000, tantalum and steel model, Abyss Blue fumé dial, grey kudu leather strap

Case
Tantalum, three-part
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
See-through curved sapphire crystal case-back
Crown adorned with an “M”
Dial
Abyss Blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture
Leaf-shaped hands
Small arrow-shaped centre hand indicating the months
Big date display
Movement
Hand-wound Manufacture calibre HMC 800
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15  lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated  
Functions
Perpetual calendar with very large date window and month display via the small central hand
Hours and minutes

• Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock
• Power reserve indicator on dial at 9 o’clock

Leap year cycle indicator on movement side and adjustment push-button
Double Pull Crown mechanism
Strap
Hand-stitched beige grey leather strap
Steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo


🔴 Price: VAT for CHF 75,000 💰

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Press release - 2023
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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www.H-Moser.com

KURONO Tokyo – Special Project 34mm Edition

KURONO Tokyo –  The SPECIAL PROJECT Series 34mm Edition 2023

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A collection that embodies new interpretations of Art Deco.

KURONO 34mm (2023)

"Why 34mm?

How do you pick the clothes you will wear every morning?

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 For me, the first thing I do is select jackets, pants, and shirts from my wardrobe then lay them all out with socks, shoes, and other items. Finally, I place my watch there and check the entire look. I think you probably do the same. What I pay attention to when I do this is making sure that the watch alone doesn't stand out. From this perspective, I find the size of 34mm to be very desirable.

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 But I wonder how many people would agree with that. There is no point in making a watch if it does not sell at all. This is why I experimented with selling 34mm watches last time. We had a pop-up exhibition in Shibuya to give people an opportunity to experience how the size of 34mm looks to them. The watches were sold out quickly.

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Later, when I saw the photos posted on social media such as Instagram, it seemed that people were enjoying coordinating it with their outfits. As the designer of this watch, I was very happy to see this. It was worth the effort.

Now, I made the second version of the watch in response to the favorable feedback.

But this time, the color is more subtle. How would you like to match it with your outfits?" 

- Hajime Asaoka

DETAILS

The Kurono 34mm comes in four colour variations, each with a neutral black leather strap that will match in any occasion.; Darkmist, Smoke, Midnight and Persimmon. 

 

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The 34mm features arabic numeral indexes, hour and minute hands with a luminescent finish.  The blue colour of the hands is IP-plated on stainless steel to prevent rusting. 

 

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The box sapphire is anti-reflective coated on both sides and has an anti-fouling coating on the surface. The Kurono 34mm comes in a newly designed case, water- resistant to 5 bar.

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SPECIFICATIONS

 

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Case
Outer diameter 34 mm
Stainless steel case, water-resistant to 5 bar
Movement

Japan-made Premium Automatic movement 90S5 by Miyota  

28,800 vibrations / hour, 24 jewels automatic
Power reserve 40 hours
Dial and hands

Luminescent hands and hour markers
Strap

Calf leather strap

Made in Japan  🇯🇵
 

🔰 Limited to 150 per dial variant

⚠️ SOLD OUT

 Fulfilment from end-March 2023
Midnight & Darkmist deliveries starts from end-April 2023

Note that no watches will be sold at Kurono Aoyama Salon. Registration in-person to participate in Japan-domestic allocation raffle is possible.

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Press release - 2023
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www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
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🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com