Monday, December 19, 2022

CHRONOSWISS – Open Gear Resec CANDY Shop Edition


CHRONOSWISS Open Gear ReSec CANDY Shop Edition 2022

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We take you to the Candy Shop. The newest addition to the ReSec family of Chronoswiss embodies what the brand stands for: Creating spectacular timepieces that reflect a pioneer mindset and yet respectfully evolve the rich heritage of a family-run watch manufacture.

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In a world where every rainbow has been seen twice already, it takes something extraordinary to fascinate.

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The Chronoswiss ReSec Candy Shop is opening the door to a wild world of colours, where everything is possible. It is the mechanical implantation of a childhood dream: Owning a Candy Shop and freely taking whatever you desire.

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The Candy Shop of the Lucerne watchmaker is presenting its sweet temptations on 2 Levels of a hybrid hand guilloched dial, that is also serving as a module plate holding the bridges, screws, wheels and jewels. 

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The flowing Guilloche pattern was created on a century old machine in the Atelier Lucerne & each visible part of the elaborate construction is coloured differently. The CVD-coating technique used for the colouring, allows the timepiece not only to shine but also to change its colours depending on the incidence of light.

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 The uncompromising timepiece is a symbiosis of modern art and fine mechanical watchmaking. Following the pathway of Chronoswiss the Candy Shop does not care about conventions or rules. 

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To remain in the world of Candy: At Chronoswiss we are not afraid of sugar – we embrace its effect on the mind and soul.

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The provocative watchmaker’s interpretation of a Candy Shop is embedded into a bold DLC-coated 44mm case in black and powered by the reliable Chronoswiss C.301 movement.

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Limited to 50 pieces only, the newest Open Gear ReSec remains a dream for many but will fulfil the childhood dream of those who are fast and fortunate enough the enter the Candy Shop.

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A mix of new materials, old techniques and contemporary design – this is what it takes to be a modern mechanical brand,” says Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein

Open Gear CANDY Shop Edition is made in a limited edition of 50 pieces.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Open Gear

Model: Open Gear ReSec CANDY Shop Edition

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 Reference Number: CH-6925M-COL

Case
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 13.35 mm
Material: Stainless steel with black DLC coating
Screw-down case back with satin finish and flat sapphire crystal
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement
Winding: Automatic with stop seconds
Caliber: Chronoswiss caliber C. 301
Diameter: 36.50mm, impulse-angle 51°
Power Reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Balance: Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring: Nivarox 1
Fine adjustment: 
Via Excenter
Shock protection:
 Incabloc
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 33

Chronometer Certified: No
Finishing
Skeletonized rotor CVD coated purple
Côtes de Genève and ball bearing;polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws
Bridges and plates with perlage
Functions: Off-centre hours at 12:00 (featuring "open gear" design) central minutes, retrograde seconds at 6:00
Additional Details: Skeletonized blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing;
polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Pricing & Availability
Dial and hands
    Dial:
42-part construction on two levels: bottom level hand-guillochéd with CVD coating, featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display, as well as a retrograde seconds display and cylinder and block shaped Super-LumiNova indexes. All components with different CVD color coatings
    Hands: 
Trigono” shape,lacquered, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips Feuille shape; curved, rhodium-plated and diamond cut
Strap/Bracelet
Alligator hornback leather, hand-sewn
Type of buckle: Folding clasp


Limited Edition: Yes, 50 pieces


Price: CHF 13,300



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Saturday, December 17, 2022

KURONO Tokyo – Complications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition


KURONO TokyoComplications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition 2022

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is a new study in gentility and is a significant evolution of our first ever chronograph - incorporating its best design elements into the new Mk.2 chronograph case.

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The Chronograph 1 Mk.2's rose gold main dial and black subdials lend an air of genteel refinement. Our unique thick box-sapphire glass allows for unique lightplay like never before - vibrant sophistication that shimmers in the light and a sense of sombre maturity in the shadows. The high reflectivity of the polished steel hands, markers and elements provide added depth and contrast even in low-light for better readability. For the first time in the chronograph range, a high-polish steel applique in arabic numerals is used at '12' in an art-deco font - signifying a new chapter in the design language and construction of the chronograph line-up.

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The Mk.2 chronograph case attempts to overcome significant engineering challenges Hajime Asaoka faced in the construction of the Chronograph 1 - which leveraged the Seiko NE86 that was by itself a thick movement at 7.65mm - and takes in stride collector requests for a thinner case. With the new Mk.2 case, Hajime Asaoka overcame the limitations by incorporating a design technique from the 1930s - to make the thickness of the movement imperceptible on the exterior. The Mk.2 is now a three-part case that has a much thinner visual profile, but is also built more robustly and allows for better repairability. In terms of comfort, the lugs shape and position have been newly adjusted to ensure the same comfortable fit as before.

The NE86 caliber used by Kurono chronographs is renowned for its reliability and excellent accuracy. By the way, automatic chronograph movements, including the NE86, are generally thick, making it difficult to achieve good proportions with an exterior 38 mm and less in diameter.

The exterior design of the previously introduced chronograph series took the approach of enlarging the proportions of the chronographs from around 34mm to 38mm. The reason for this was that the diameter-to-thickness ratio of hand-wound chronograph movements of the time was close to that of the NE86. As a result, the thickness of the movement is slightly emphasized, giving it a unique impression.

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In the new MK.2, the actual thickness remains almost the same [sic: slightly slimmer at13.5mm vs 13.9mm - 13.5mm is the thinnest chronograph equipped with the NE86), but the design balance has been pursued to the utmost limit so that the watch looks thinner as a 38mm exterior. In particular, the lower part of the case has been sharply narrowed to give the watch a 30% thinner visual impression when worn on the wrist. While such design innovations have been tried in past chronographs, there is a trade-off in terms of wearability, and for the MK.2, I took the time to carefully consider this aspect of the design. As a result, I believe we have created the ultimate exterior design for a 38mm automatic chronograph." ~ Hajime Asaoka

Dial & sapphire glass

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 features a high-polish arabic '12' applique at the top, flanked by our iconic polished steel studs as hour markers and a polished steel surround for the date window. The perimeter scale features pulsometer and tachymeter indicators.

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The dial itself is called a cylinder dial, which is gently curved from the center to the outer edge. While most modern ebauche movements including the NE86 are designed to have flat dials, the dial of the Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is designed to be cylinder-shaped. In order to create a three-dimensional effect, the main part of the dial and the sub-dial were manufactured separately and then fitted together, wih the subdial steel surround ring being diamond-cut.

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A sapphire box crystal is used to give the watch a beautiful shape, similar to the acrylic glass of vintage watches. It allows for unparalleled light play, where different lighting environments allow for different looks for the watch.

Hands

The combination of leaf hands and modern hour and minute hands is an icon of Kurono. The tips of the minute and chronograph seconds hands are bent by hand to match the curves of the dial and glass. the elapsed-time subdial at '9' is set with a uniquely designed high-polished subhand in the shape of a traditional Japanese 'kyudo' arrow. The different shape of all hands is a device used in the high-end chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s, which Mr. Asaoka is fond of, and is intended to improve legibility. Anecdotally, for the very first Chronograph 1, the hands were bent by hand over the roof of a die-cast toy car to get the perfect angle consistently.

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"In my case, I often choose from traditional Japanese colours when deciding on the colour of the dial. In this case, I chose the colour 'kakishibu-iro'. In kanji, it is written like this. '柿渋色'.


Kakishibu-iro means the colour of kakishibu (iro=colour). Kakishibu is a fermented juice of the fruit persimmon, and has long been used in Japan as an antiseptic and paint. It is similar to 'salmon' in colour, but slightly brownish. It is also known as 'danjyuro-cha', as it was the favourite colour of the famous Kabuki actor Ichikawa Danjuro. The word 'cha' means brown.

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However, in kakishibu-iro the name is too long, so I simply called it salmon with the person in charge of the dial painting. I am not too particular about the name of the colour itself. I think it should simply be something that is easy to call. Therefore, salmon or pink gold is fine.


When I specify the colour of the dial, I actually check it by applying the paint I have formulated myself to the metal plate and hand it over to the person in charge of painting. This is what you see in the bottom left-hand corner of the image. The look of the colour is very important.This is the exact kakishibu-iro."
~ Hajime Asaoka.

Movement

Hajime Asaoka chose the mechanical chronograph calibre NE86 from one of Japan's most esteemed movement manufactures. Positioned by SII as its newest flagship chronograph movement and successor to the 6S - it is a premium caliber, the 311-part movement combines traditional chronograph features like a column wheel, vertical clutch, and a magic lever winding system; it has a unique three-pointed hammer system that starts, stops, and resets all three wheels simultaneously. This allows for all the counters to advance continuously rather than only at one-minute intervals. Additionally, instead of driving the minute and hour counters from the chronograph seconds wheel, each is driven by a powered wheel with its own clutch. This delivers increased accuracy and longer-term durability. The movement has a power reserve of 45 hours. The NE86 is a movement that even Mr. Asaoka, who makes his own movements, trusts.

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The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is priced at US$3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. It has a limited production of hundreds that shall not be repeated. Deliveries start Christmas 2022 thru early Feb 2023.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 1 Mk.2

Limited production of hundreds

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Case
Material: 316L
stainless steel, polished
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 11.7mm (13.5mm including sapphire)
Glass: sapphire box crystal
Lug to lug (length): 46.8 mm
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
Salmon dial
Steel hands
Movement
Caliber NE86
Automatic winding movement
Number of jewels: 34
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 45
hours
Functions/Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Strap and buckle
Calf leather strap

🔰Limited production of 100 Pieces

 🔴 Price MSRP    US$ 3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. ⚠️SOLD OUT
 

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