Saturday, December 17, 2022

KURONO Tokyo – Complications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition


KURONO TokyoComplications Chronograph 1 Mk.2 Edition 2022

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is a new study in gentility and is a significant evolution of our first ever chronograph - incorporating its best design elements into the new Mk.2 chronograph case.

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The Chronograph 1 Mk.2's rose gold main dial and black subdials lend an air of genteel refinement. Our unique thick box-sapphire glass allows for unique lightplay like never before - vibrant sophistication that shimmers in the light and a sense of sombre maturity in the shadows. The high reflectivity of the polished steel hands, markers and elements provide added depth and contrast even in low-light for better readability. For the first time in the chronograph range, a high-polish steel applique in arabic numerals is used at '12' in an art-deco font - signifying a new chapter in the design language and construction of the chronograph line-up.

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The Mk.2 chronograph case attempts to overcome significant engineering challenges Hajime Asaoka faced in the construction of the Chronograph 1 - which leveraged the Seiko NE86 that was by itself a thick movement at 7.65mm - and takes in stride collector requests for a thinner case. With the new Mk.2 case, Hajime Asaoka overcame the limitations by incorporating a design technique from the 1930s - to make the thickness of the movement imperceptible on the exterior. The Mk.2 is now a three-part case that has a much thinner visual profile, but is also built more robustly and allows for better repairability. In terms of comfort, the lugs shape and position have been newly adjusted to ensure the same comfortable fit as before.

The NE86 caliber used by Kurono chronographs is renowned for its reliability and excellent accuracy. By the way, automatic chronograph movements, including the NE86, are generally thick, making it difficult to achieve good proportions with an exterior 38 mm and less in diameter.

The exterior design of the previously introduced chronograph series took the approach of enlarging the proportions of the chronographs from around 34mm to 38mm. The reason for this was that the diameter-to-thickness ratio of hand-wound chronograph movements of the time was close to that of the NE86. As a result, the thickness of the movement is slightly emphasized, giving it a unique impression.

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In the new MK.2, the actual thickness remains almost the same [sic: slightly slimmer at13.5mm vs 13.9mm - 13.5mm is the thinnest chronograph equipped with the NE86), but the design balance has been pursued to the utmost limit so that the watch looks thinner as a 38mm exterior. In particular, the lower part of the case has been sharply narrowed to give the watch a 30% thinner visual impression when worn on the wrist. While such design innovations have been tried in past chronographs, there is a trade-off in terms of wearability, and for the MK.2, I took the time to carefully consider this aspect of the design. As a result, I believe we have created the ultimate exterior design for a 38mm automatic chronograph." ~ Hajime Asaoka

Dial & sapphire glass

The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 features a high-polish arabic '12' applique at the top, flanked by our iconic polished steel studs as hour markers and a polished steel surround for the date window. The perimeter scale features pulsometer and tachymeter indicators.

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The dial itself is called a cylinder dial, which is gently curved from the center to the outer edge. While most modern ebauche movements including the NE86 are designed to have flat dials, the dial of the Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is designed to be cylinder-shaped. In order to create a three-dimensional effect, the main part of the dial and the sub-dial were manufactured separately and then fitted together, wih the subdial steel surround ring being diamond-cut.

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A sapphire box crystal is used to give the watch a beautiful shape, similar to the acrylic glass of vintage watches. It allows for unparalleled light play, where different lighting environments allow for different looks for the watch.

Hands

The combination of leaf hands and modern hour and minute hands is an icon of Kurono. The tips of the minute and chronograph seconds hands are bent by hand to match the curves of the dial and glass. the elapsed-time subdial at '9' is set with a uniquely designed high-polished subhand in the shape of a traditional Japanese 'kyudo' arrow. The different shape of all hands is a device used in the high-end chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s, which Mr. Asaoka is fond of, and is intended to improve legibility. Anecdotally, for the very first Chronograph 1, the hands were bent by hand over the roof of a die-cast toy car to get the perfect angle consistently.

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"In my case, I often choose from traditional Japanese colours when deciding on the colour of the dial. In this case, I chose the colour 'kakishibu-iro'. In kanji, it is written like this. '柿渋色'.


Kakishibu-iro means the colour of kakishibu (iro=colour). Kakishibu is a fermented juice of the fruit persimmon, and has long been used in Japan as an antiseptic and paint. It is similar to 'salmon' in colour, but slightly brownish. It is also known as 'danjyuro-cha', as it was the favourite colour of the famous Kabuki actor Ichikawa Danjuro. The word 'cha' means brown.

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However, in kakishibu-iro the name is too long, so I simply called it salmon with the person in charge of the dial painting. I am not too particular about the name of the colour itself. I think it should simply be something that is easy to call. Therefore, salmon or pink gold is fine.


When I specify the colour of the dial, I actually check it by applying the paint I have formulated myself to the metal plate and hand it over to the person in charge of painting. This is what you see in the bottom left-hand corner of the image. The look of the colour is very important.This is the exact kakishibu-iro."
~ Hajime Asaoka.

Movement

Hajime Asaoka chose the mechanical chronograph calibre NE86 from one of Japan's most esteemed movement manufactures. Positioned by SII as its newest flagship chronograph movement and successor to the 6S - it is a premium caliber, the 311-part movement combines traditional chronograph features like a column wheel, vertical clutch, and a magic lever winding system; it has a unique three-pointed hammer system that starts, stops, and resets all three wheels simultaneously. This allows for all the counters to advance continuously rather than only at one-minute intervals. Additionally, instead of driving the minute and hour counters from the chronograph seconds wheel, each is driven by a powered wheel with its own clutch. This delivers increased accuracy and longer-term durability. The movement has a power reserve of 45 hours. The NE86 is a movement that even Mr. Asaoka, who makes his own movements, trusts.

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The Chronograph 1 Mk.2 is priced at US$3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. It has a limited production of hundreds that shall not be repeated. Deliveries start Christmas 2022 thru early Feb 2023.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 1 Mk.2

Limited production of hundreds

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Case
Material: 316L
stainless steel, polished
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 11.7mm (13.5mm including sapphire)
Glass: sapphire box crystal
Lug to lug (length): 46.8 mm
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
Salmon dial
Steel hands
Movement
Caliber NE86
Automatic winding movement
Number of jewels: 34
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 45
hours
Functions/Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Strap and buckle
Calf leather strap

🔰Limited production of 100 Pieces

 🔴 Price MSRP    US$ 3,460 (JPY 483,000) and will be available for ordering on 24th November at 11pm JST. ⚠️SOLD OUT
 

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www.facebook.com - Kuronotokyo 
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🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com

Friday, December 16, 2022

H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Center Seconds GENESIS Edition

 

H. MOSER & CIE.ENDEAVOUR Center Seconds GENESIS Vantablack® Dial Black Limited Edition 2022

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PIONEERING THE ULTIMATE IMMERSIVE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE
01100111 01100101 01101110 01100101 01110011 01101001 01110011 (Genesis)

Keeping up with the times and with the pioneering spirit of its founder, Heinrich Moser, H. Moser & Cie. is diving into a new immersive luxury experience for its customers. Using an approach that combines physical, digital and virtual dimensions, H. Moser & Cie. is introducing a cutting-edge, customer-focused solution.

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Through a holistic ecosystem, including blockchain watch authentication, digital assets and its own dedicated metaverse space, H. Moser & Cie. is offering a completely new definition of service. Pushing its boundaries and stepping out of its comfort zone, H. Moser & Cie. has embarked with select partners, experts in their fields, to guide the company in its exploration of new technologies enabling enhanced security and deeper user engagement. A whole network has been created for this pioneering exploration of a new world.

UNCHARTED TERRITORY TO BE EXPLORED

Back in 2020, H. Moser & Cie. was one of the first independent watch brands to launch an e-commerce and CPO platform. 


True to its adventurous spirit, it is continuing in this initiative by setting out to conquer Web 3.0. Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., explains: "We are at the dawn of a new technological era. For us, it seemed crucial to evolve with our times and to take a clear stance, playing an active role in defining the rules of this still little-known world, whilst remaining humble, and asking the right questions. Entrepreneurship is in our DNA and we strive to cultivate this philosophy by taking risks and exploring new uncharted territories".

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H. Moser & Cie. has developed a complete ecosystem that offers blockchain product authentication for enhanced multi-level security and transparency, exclusive privileges enabled by digital assets ownership, and a metaverse space intended to both showcase its products and benefit its customers.

AN APP ENABLING ACCESS TO A NEW MOSER ENVIRONMENT

This large-scale project is multi-layered and mixes physical, digital and virtual dimensions. It is based on the development of a complete ecosystem structured through a dedicated app allowing watch authentication through blockchain technology, provided by Aura Blockchain Consortium

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Through Aura SaaS, customers can access complete traceability and transparency through the product's lifecycle from certification, warranty, insurance and further customer services. This authentication will eventually be introduced for all Moser watches via the warranty card that is included with each model. Non-speculative digital assets have also been created in the form of NFTs including digital artworks, in particular short "time capsule" videos promoting the product and the watchmakers behind it, ultimately sealing forever on the blockchain the moment each watch has completed production.

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Alongside this, H. Moser & Cie. has developed an immersive metaverse experience inviting customers to step into a new Moser universe supported by a mix of tradition and latest technologies. In this metaverse space, visitors can discover the history of the brand and the manufacture, and meet the Moser team in a new dimension. Designed to enable its customers and its community to enjoy a virtual experience, this metaverse space draws its inspiration from current leading virtual worlds. 

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Designed as a modern, minimalist Swiss chalet, it comprises both classic references to Switzerland as well as specific references to the brand, such as the Rhine Falls (Rheinfall), where the manufacture has its headquarters. Designed to develop and evolve, this universe opens the doors to the imaginative world of Moser.

01100111 01100101 01101110 01100101 01110011 01101001 01110011

This pioneering project centres around a concept watch available as a limited edition of 50 pieces; this timepiece incorporates aesthetic codes from the virtual to the tangible: its 3D-printed titanium crown and bezel appear pixelated and are perfectly paired with the watch's microblasted steel case. 

This is the first piece in an exclusive triptych which will give each owner access to the next two pieces. Christened the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, or 01100111 01100101 01101110 01100101 01110011 01101001 01110011 in binary code, this timepiece is a hybrid product, combining both physical and virtual dimensions. 

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Each Genesis timepiece bears a unique QR code engraved on its sapphire crystal that allows to authenticate watch ownership, offering its owner privileged access to the entire dedicated digital and virtual ecosystem, in particular giving them priority to purchase certain future limited editions, membership of the Moser community, and exclusive invitations to brand launch events, and more. This is yet another way that the company is offering added value to its customers within the Moser universe, while strengthening its interactions and engagement with them. 

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  Both the Genesis timepiece and the associated digital assets will benefit from unrivalled insurance service. Moreover, H. Moser & Cie. recently started accepting direct payment in crypto-currency.

A NETWORK OF SPECIALISTS AT H. MOSER & CIE.'S SIDE

To accompany it in this leap towards decentralised experiences, H. Moser & Cie. surrounded itself with established prestigious partners. Deloitte Consulting Switzerland has mobilized key technological and industry leaders to empower H. Moser & Cie. to reimagine the future of luxury watches. 

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These partners are Aura Blockchain Consortium, a leader in technological solutions for the luxury goods sector, created by some of the world’s most prestigious luxury groups going beyond traditional frontiers to become a technological hub for the luxury industry; Zurich Switzerland to insure the physical product and digital assets for this brand-new hybrid product; Crossmint for custody of tokens in a wallet accessible for the first time via a dedicated application; and Salesforce, making H. Moser & Cie. one of the first global customers across all industries to benefit from its Web 3.0 management suite. 

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The expertise of these partners lends credibility to H. Moser & Cie.'s approach and serves as a guarantee. Each partner shared its know-how to ensure the success of this project, in a brand-new combination of different industries and experiences, forming an infinitely valuable support network around the brand.


SOLID GUARANTEES

Following on from Web 1.0 (the Static Web) and Web 2.0 (the Collaborative Web), we have Web 3.0 (the Ownership Web): "I own therefore I am". This major evolution enables users to access digital property without intermediaries. For the exclusive luxury goods sector, it is essential to ensure a reliable long-term approach, by collaborating with the best partners in each field.

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Designed to be customer-focused and people-oriented, H. Moser & Cie.'s cutting-edge approach is unique. It will enable H. Moser & Cie. to apply the most popular features among its customers to future models to constantly improve customers' experience, while also enabling them to be part of a passionate community of VIP watch owners. To mark the launch of this project, the brand organised a series of press conferences in its dedicated space in the metaverse – an unprecedented experience.

H. Moser & Cie.'s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: PIONEER Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition

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Reference 1200-1238, microblasted steel model with 3D-printed titanium crown and bezel, Vantablack® dial, QR code engraved on the sapphire crystal, grey kudu leather strap, limited edition of 50 pieces

Case
Black DLC-microblasted steel & Titanium
Diameter: 40.0 mm, height without sapphire crystal: 11.3 mm
Sapphire crystal with engraved QR code
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M
Water-resistant to 30 metres
Dial
Vantablack®
Black leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Movement
Automatic calibre HMC 200
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lines
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
27 jewels

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Engraved oscillating weight
Power reserve: 72 hours minimum 3 days
Solid 18K gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark
Original Straumann® hairspring
Functions
Hours and minutes
Central seconds
Strap
Hand-stitched grey kudu leather
Microblasted steel pin buckle, engraved with the Moser logo

🔰Limited Edition- Only of 50 Piece

 🔴 PriceMSRP: CHF 27 000

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Press release - 2022
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos,
Tel. +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER &CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.         +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com

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