Saturday, December 10, 2022

Oscillon – Handmade Fundamentum Edition

OSCILLON WatchHandmade Fundamentum Unique Concept Watch Edition  2022

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With the Fundamentum model, the name says it all. What makes the Fundamentum of Swiss Made? It lies in the precision, the finishing and the Hand Made. 

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What this really means can only be understood by those who tackle these goals with the old machines and tools.  

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The unique concept of the Fundamentum timepiece is, that in the manufacturing process of the timepiece only involves manually operated machines and all components are manufactured inhouse in our own workshop (exceptions are crystal, jewels, and gaskets)

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Classic materials such as nickel silver, brass and steel take countless hours to achieve their functional form and aesthetic perfection. The watchmaker's hand and eye act as conductor, leading the orchestra of manually operated machines and tools. What emerges is a concert of bevelled and polished nickel silver bridges, polished steel parts, curved wheels, and an oscillating balance. The technical plan and tradition set the direction. 

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The savoir faire and the passion of Oscillon's watchmakers determine the result. Oscillon and the Fundamentum model represent our ambition to continue the craft and tradition. We do not count the hours of manufacture; we focus on the years that the watch will tell the time to the future owner.

 Dial

The very purpose of a watch is to tell the time. So something as precious as time deserves an appropriate stage on which to perform, meaning the dial and hands. 

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Our dials only reveal their full splendour when closely examined. Relief structures emerge on machines that should have retired aeons ago, giving depth to the dial and endowing it with a special lustre.

Circular satin finish

High-quality work must be both functional and appealing, which is why the creation of decorated surfaces and polished bevels are an important stage of the work. Circular or sunray shaped brushings are created on wheels. 

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Creating the necessary custom made holders and tools, as well as setting up the machine takes more time than the decoration itself. A perfect result can only be ensured with the greatest care and the most accurate preliminary work. 

Boring out holes

The main plate is the base of the movement, to which all the ruby bearings and screws are fixed. The wheels and pinions may be perfect but if the axial distances are wrong, it’s all in vain. The distance between the holes of the bearings must therefore be correct to a thousandth of a millimeter and absolutely perpendicular to the surface. One hole after another is produced on a jig boring machine. 

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With the escapement and regulator, holes are additionally bored out on a centering lathe so that upper and lower bearings end up exactly on an axle. The machine does nothing by itself. Only the hand of the watchmaker is responsible for a perfect result. This stage of the work requires great concentration and perseverance.

Turning the pinion

The hardened rough pinions can now be given their final shape. The shoulder to which the wheel is to be fixed emerges on a hand-driven lathe along with the pivots that later turn in ruby bearings. In this process, quality resides entirely in the hands of the watchmaker, who gives the hand graver its shape and guides it by turning. 

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If a required dimension is undershot, the pinion is unusable. This work is the most time-consuming and hardest stage on the way to achieving a ready pinion.

Milling the pinion

For the tensioned spring to get its energy to the regulator – the watch’s actual clock – the movement needs to transfer this energy. The movement consists of steel pinions to which filigree wheels made of brass are fixed. 

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The wheels and pinions are toothed on a century-old machine whose use demands substantial expertise and experience. If both are present, the emerging tooth profiles are absolutely on a par with those produced using the latest techniques.

Balancer

The balance wheel is the heart of the watch. It’s where the precision that the watch keeps is determined. Integrating the balance spring and shaping the Breguet terminal curve require the greatest possible concentration and enormous skill. Incorrectly balancing the balancing wheel will adversely affect the clock’s precision. 

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Because only the simplest tools are used, the difference between good and very good resides at all times in the watchmaker’s hands.

Crossing out wheels

The pinion has to be turned and the wheel has to have spokes fitted. The wheels should have the smallest possible moment of inertia so that they can be accelerated quickly and not hit the pinion leaves when decelerating. The basic shape comes into being on a pantograph. A lot of filing is needed and a huge amount of patience required to achieve the final shape. 

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The technically necessary elements are then followed by the finishing touches in the form of esthetical decorations. The spokes are provided with fine, polished chamfers. It is with this stage of the work that we pay tribute to all the watchmakers who have brought this beautiful craft to perfection over the past few centuries.

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Pure unadulterated watchmaking tradition

We make Swiss watches the way they did a century ago. Each of our machines represents a piece of Swiss watchmaking history, making the manufacture of every watch a journey back in time. We consciously adopt this long and painstaking approach since quality cannot be hurried. 

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Dominique Buser

We believe that this investment of time results in something of lasting value. We manufacture our watches on-site, in our workshop – from A to Z. We take the time needed to make our passion and skill perceptible in the smallest detail of every component.

Lasting value

We work with patience and all our work is lovingly handcrafted, with just five watches leaving our workshop every year. As all the parts of our watches are made on old manually operated machines and finished by skilled watchmakers, no two watches are exactly alike. 

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Cyrano Devanthey
 
Each creator puts a bit of himself into each timepiece. This passion and the professional pride of a handful of specialists are apparent in every watch and results in an object of lasting value.

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TECHNICAL DATA
 

Collection:  Handmade

Model:  Fundamentum

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Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Frequency: 18.000 variations / hours
Power reserve: 45 h
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Case
Material Steel
Size:   ø 38 mm
Thickness:   9.7 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial  
Ruthenium coated handmade dial with silver pad printed numerals. 
Relief structures finish with pattern
Bracelet
Leather
Buckle  Pin buckle

 🔴 Price incl. VAT  161'550 CHF 💰

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Contact Information
Oscillon
Heinrich Wehrli-Strasse 7
5033 Buchs AG
SWITZERLAND
info@oscillon.swiss
+41 56 282 22 30
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www.instagram.com/oscillon_watch
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www.oscillon.swiss 

Friday, December 9, 2022

LAURENT FERRIER – Classic Micro-Rotor « Série Atelier » Magnetic Green Edition

 

LAURENT FERRIERClassic Micro-Rotor “Série Atelier” Magnetic Green 40mm Titanium Edition 2022

Swiss watchmaker LAURENT FERRIER presents the Classic Micro-Rotor Magnetic Green as part of its all-new “Série Atelier”. The brand is turning its production upside down and taking the time to thank its community. This new addition in the “Série Atelier” collection is indeed a tribute. 

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Firstly a tribute to the previous “Série Atelier”, but above all a tribute to its community of collectors some of whom have supported it since its creation.

FOURTH OPUS IN THE SERIE ATELIER
 
It's no secret that globally the watch industry has been enjoying a nice upturn for some time. But the latter can sometimes put collectors at a disadvantage because of the reduced accessibility of timepieces. Although LAURENT FERRIER does not have a miracle solution to this supply problem, the House has been offering an initial response for two years now. The idea is to enable a handful of the most reactive collectors to obtain a precious LAURENT FERRIER timepiece in less than two months.

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These direct-to-consumer collections are called “Série Atelier” and are limited and numbered editions. This strategy is part of the ongoing policy to deliver an exclusive experience that supports the brand’s values and heritage. By limiting these collections to rare numbered series, LAURENT FERRIER intends to maintain confidential exclusivity by closely controlling the availability of the timepieces and by creating a link between the collector and one of its watches. 
 
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Time is of the essence when it comes to delivering a grail watch to its aficionado. On the occasion of this direct sale, LAURENT FERRIER undertakes to reduce delivery times by guaranteeing shipment within 40 days of purchase. 
 
A MAGNETIC DIAL
 
Previously used to adorn the Classic Traveller, this magnetic green dial features striking vibrant green hues and has been designed exclusively for discerning connoisseurs who seek not only watchmaking precision and quality but also distinctive style. LAURENT FERRIER offers a new luxurious interpretation of this distinctive green. The dial is made up of two different finishes, which provides a unique, undulating visual effect as the dial evolves, creating a hypnotic ballet of shadow and light.
The drop-shaped 18ct white gold indexes complete the highlighting of the dial and add an undeniable touch of elegance.

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Then comes the small seconds, at 6 o'clock, set back from the thickness of the dial, to paradoxically highlight it. Its markers are transferred in slate grey, with extreme finesse. The concentric circular snailed pattern, creates a demarcation, a geometry, which gives the hand a space to express itself.

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Extremely fine, baton-shaped, this second hand is balanced by a slightly convex counterweight, one of the brand’s favourite shapes, with which the dial of the Classic Micro-rotor “Série Atelier” is dotted. This same relief can also be found on the stamped hour and minute hands, anchored in the centre. They adopt the fetish shape of LAURENT FERRIER, known as Assegai, like these spears with a long and slender blade. As soon as the surprise of discovering their cut-out has passed, the gaze lingers again on the shine, the reflections, the subtle roundness.

A LIGHTWEIGHT CASE

 The bewitching magnetic green dial is housed in a 40mm case in grade 5 titanium. This case offers the softness, the domes and the curves specific to the “pebble”-shaped cases created by LAURENT FERRIER from the beginning. Its sides, bezel and lugs are polished. This operation gives the Classic Micro-rotor “Série Atelier” a sophisticated finish, just as precious as white gold, but with a wear that is overwhelmed by the properties of titanium. 

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Four times lighter than 18 ct white gold, it makes the Classic Micro-rotor “Série Atelier” featherweight, the feel of which disappears on the wrist. In addition, titanium is a very hard material which is extremely resistant to wear and tear. However, here the polishing is obtained by friction operations which border on the caress. This choice, devoid of compromise, is made for a single purpose: the Classic Micro-rotor “Série Atelier must, from all angles, be pleasant to wear, to touch and contribute to the comfort of its wearer.

A CALIBRE THAT STANDS THE TEST OF TIME
 
The movement that powers the Magnetic Green dial is LAURENT FERRIER's famous Micro-Rotor, a cutting-edge technology that enables precise timekeeping and an optimised power reserve.

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The FBN 229.01 calibre with natural escapement, a movement resulting from an historic collaboration, is equipped with a micro-rotor with an 18-carat gold oscillating weight with unidirectional winding. The sapphire crystal caseback offers an unobstructed view of the high-quality finishing, of which LAURENT FERRIER is one of the most emblematic practitioners. Finely circular-grained plate, hand-bevelled bridges decorated with a rhodium-plated horizontal satin-brushed finish, mirror-polished and openworked pallet bridge to reveal exceptional hand-made inward angles, rotor bridge also mirror-polished and hand-bevelled, bevelled and guilloché rotor, so many details that bring relief, brilliance and a rendering faithful to the most demanding traditional watchmaking timepieces.

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This double direct impulse escapement on the balance, just as rare as it is complex to make, was inspired by the father of modern watchmaking, Abraham-Louis Breguet. It refers to a system equipped with two escape wheels, operating alternately and transmitting their energy directly to the balance. We speak of direct impulse to the balance because it is no longer the pallet-lever that gives the impulse to the balance as in classic Swiss lever escapements, but the escape wheel, which is much more efficient in terms of performance. As this can only turn in one direction, a second escape wheel completes the set to give the impulses to the balance alternately. 
 
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They interact with a silicon pallet-lever, an ultra-light and self-lubricating material. The gain in performance achieved is directly reflected in its autonomy. The Classic Micro-rotor therefore offers a substantial power reserve of more than 72 hours.

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The Classic Micro-Rotor Magnetic Green upholds LAURENT FERRIER's reputation for creating masterful timepieces that combine emotional appeal, technical perfection and design harmony in a single construction.

The Classic Micro-rotor “Série Atelier” Magnetic Green is produced in a limited quantity of 20 pieces only and displayed at the price of CHF 49,500 excluding tax, exclusively available on the website www.laurentferrier.ch.

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TECHNICAL DATA
 

Model:   Classic Micro-Rotor Magnetic Green

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REF: LCF004.T1.V8G

limited edition of 20 pieces 


Calibre
Self-winding Calibre LF229.01

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Natural escapement
Unidirectional pawl-fitted micro-rotor
Silicon escapement with double direct impulse to the balance
Indications: 
  • central hours and minutes. 
  • Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Diameter: 14’’’ (Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 4,35 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 72 hours
186 parts
35 jewels

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameters: 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness: 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water-resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in grade 5 titanium
Dial
Green, sunburst in the centre, circular satin-brushed on the outside
Drop-shaped hour indexes in cabochon-finished 18ct white gold
Snailed small second at 6 o’clock, slate grey transfers
Hande
18ct white gold, polished and curved
18ct, “Assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes
Seconds: baton-type with counterweight
Strap
Forest-green Nubuck leather, hand stitched  withAlcantara lining
Grade 5 titanium pin buckle


Limitation  
Unique timepiece Limited Edition - Only 20 examples 
 
Price: CH: CHF 49,500.- incl. sales tax

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Press Release - 2022
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Laurent Ferrier SA
Ms­­ Jessica­­ Gasser
Route de Saint Julien 150
1228­­ Plan Les Ouates
Switzerland

Telephone+41 22 716 33 87
Telefax+41 22 341 64 08
Contact : PR@LAURENTFERRIER.CH
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