Saturday, October 22, 2022

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Laureato 38 mm Copper

 

GIRARD-PERREGAUXLAUREATO 38mm Copper Dial Steel Automatic 2022

Mastering light

La Chaux-de-Fonds, October 20th, 2022 (10AM CET) - Girard-Perregaux is pleased to unveil the Laureato 38mm Copper, a mid-sized, unisex model with a fascinating dial. Termed `copper' the appearance of the dial is complex and dynamic, evincing different shades depending on the available light source. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

With over 230 years history, Girard-Perregaux has amassed vast experience, skilfully utilising light for the delectation of watch aficionados. Despite being a new model, this latest creation remains a Laureato, a byword for ageless design since the inaugural version was first launched in 1975.

An appreciation of light

La Chaux-de-Fonds is the home of Girard-Perregaux as well as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The city has been dedicated to watchmaking since the 18th century. The streets, arranged in a grid-like pattern, are lined with tall buildings fitted with large windows. The architecture of the city was purposely designed to capture available natural light, a useful resource when working at a watchmaker's bench. For over 230 years, Girard-Perregaux has appreciated the value of natural light and its positive influence on the timepieces it continues to produce.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

With the arrival of the Laureato 38mm Copper, the Maison, once again, shows its capacity to master light. The dial is not merely a one-dimensional surface, but encompasses a Clous de Paris motif. This traditional pattern is composed of multiple pyramidal structures that engage with light, bestowing tiny pockets of brilliance and shade. 


Viewing an image of the dial does not adequately convey how it looks when affixed to the wrist. While the dial is termed 'copper', its dynamic character is far more complex, transitioning from tawny brown to pink-toned gold with multiple shades in between.

Reintroducing the 38mm with a new dial but reassuringly Laureato

Captivating onlookers with its metallic-themed dial, the Laureato 38mm Copper is mid-sized and unisex, sidestepping gender stereotypes. Baton-type hands and index enunciate the hours and minutes. These elements uphold the Laureato's timeless design language, much loved by purists since the inaugural model was unveiled in 1975. Both the hands and indexes are treated with luminescent material, augmenting readability in dim light.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

A golden central sweep seconds hand sits in harmony with the copper dial, reinforcing the metallic yet warm character of the composition. Moreover, the dial is complemented with the GP logo, again depicted in golden hues. The Maison's single bridge emblem makes an appearance, providing a respectful nod to the iconic movement of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges from the 1860s


Although the Laureato 38mm Copper is unequivocally new, its origins remain clear to see. The beloved octagonal bezel and fluid-like integrated bracelet, cascading downwards around the wrist, are signature details which continue to endure. Encased in stainless steel, the Laureato is a byword for versatility, proving suitable for all roles, whether sporty, casual or formal. It is this consistent approach to design which has endowed the Laureato with an ageless appearance that has remained immune to changing fashions.

An inner beauty

 Housed in a slender case, just 10mm in height, the Laureato 38mm Copper is equipped with a self-winding movement, the Calibre GP03300. Visible via a see-through case-back, the in-house movement is enriched with a plethora of refined details, perpetuating the Maison's reputation for exquisite finishing. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Some components feature no less than four different decorations ranging from bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finish, snailing, sunray finish to various engravings. The bridges are decorated with straight Cotes de Geneve and the pink gold oscillating weight is embellished with circular Cotes de Geneve.

Laureato, a lesson in design

In terms of design, the 1970s were extraordinary. Creativity imbued a variety of objects with timeless aesthetics and notable functionality. This prowess for design was manifest with the styling of several highly original watches and the era continues to be acknowledged for its visionary approach to design. Indeed, during this era, several prestigious brands released watches encased in steel with integrated bracelets. However, only a few designs from this period have retained their eye appeal despite the onset of years.  


From the outset, the design of the Laureato united a number of different shapes to form a distinctive, yet cohesive, look. Each Laureato comprises an octagonal bezel that sits atop a circular ring which in turn is positioned above an angular tonneau-shaped case. But despite having geometric, clean-cut lines, the Laureato's case also has a gentle character, reminiscent of a rock shaped by nature and devoid of harshness. Throughout the composition there is an exquisite interplay between polished and satin finished surfaces. Both finishes are clearly defined and discrete from one another, thereby optimising the effect. Lastly, the exterior is completed with an integrated bracelet that ergonomically hugs the wearer's wrist, bestowing a comfortable fit. It is this assemblage of contrasting forms that has led to the Laureato's unique profile, making it instantly recognisable when viewed from afar.

At the time of its launch in 1975, the inaugural watch was called the 'Quartz Chronometer'. However, in Italy, the model soon became known among the cognoscenti as the the graduate (Laureato in Italian) of the school of Girard-Perregaux'. This affectionate name served as an acknowledgement of the model's prize-winning success and extraordinary precision. Ultimately, the name was adopted by the Maison. Coincidentally, the octagonal bezel sits atop the case, like a laurel crown sits upon the head of a laureate.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Over the years, subtle changes have been made to the design of the Laureato, but the essence of the original 1975 model has always been retained. In 2017, Girard-Perregaux released the fifth generation of the Laureato, a design that has been adopted for the new Laureato 38mm Copper.

There are some iconic buildings, cars and items of furniture produced during the 1970s that will always remain timeless exemplars of accomplished design. The Laureato, an in-house design, could be considered a worthy member of this exclusive club.

Swiss know-how

Innovation has always been at the heart of Girard-Perregaux's culture ever since it was founded in 1791. During the 1970s, the Swiss brand was at the vanguard of quartz timekeeping, a technology that promised a future of unprecedented precision. In fact, the frequency of 32,768 Hz was set by the Maison and subsequently adopted as the universal standard for quartz watches. 

It was perhaps inevitable that the inaugural Laureato of 1975 was equipped with an in-house, COSC-certified quartz movement, the Calibre 705. During this period, most of the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry was in decline, ill-prepared for the shift to battery-powered timepieces.

Quartz watches remain attractive to many clients, however, Girard-Perregaux has also produced in-house mechanical movements for over 230 years, a claim few other watch brands can make. In 1995, as mechanical watchmaking began to enjoy a renaissance, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato 8010 fitted with an in-house automatic calibre. Today, the Laureato 34mm is fitted with a quartz movement, while the 38mm, 42mm and 44mm models all feature in-house mechanical movements.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The 81005 Copper will be the only 38mm in the Laureato permanent collection. It will go on sale in December 2022 and will be available worldwide in limited quantities through all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

=========================
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: LAUREATO 38MM Copper

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Reference: 81005-11-3154  

Movement
Calibre GP01800-2034
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 25.95mm (111/2’’’)
Height: 3.36mm
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4Hz)
Number of components: 218
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 46
hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
Case
Material:
Steel, polished and satin finished
Diameter: 38.00mm
Height: 10.00mm
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Dial
Sunray copper with a 'Clous de Paris' pattern, 
Hands: 'baton' type rhodium-plated indexes with luminescent material (white emission), gold-plated GP logo
Water resistance: 100 metres (10ATM)
Bracelet
Bracelet Material: steel, polished and satin finished

🔴Retail price
GBP 11’500 / CHF 14’200 / USD 14’900 / EUR 15’000

 ---------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2022
----------------------------------------------

Girard-Perregaux Press Contact :
Leopoldo Celi
Head of Communication and Brand Image
+41 (0)79 303 50 72
leopoldo.celi@girard-perregaux.com

-------------------
Press Contact:
Manager: Steve Cooper
Senior Partner Media Officer
+44 7408 807885
mailto:Stephen.Cooper@astonmartinf1.com

------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Girard Perregaux
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

www.Girard-Perregaux.com

Friday, October 21, 2022

De Bethune – DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT Dual Dial Edition

 

De BethuneDB25 Kind of Two Jumping GMT Dual Dial Titanium 40mm Edition - 2022

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT
Two watches, two worlds: here and elsewhere.

In 2022, De Bethune celebrates its 20th anniversary. Two decades dedicated to interpreting centuries-old expertise and the tireless quest for innovation.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

On the occasion of SIAR 2022, the Manufacture is unveiling its 30th in-house calibre with the release of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT.
Here and elsewhere is now possible, as travel comes to life almost instantaneously in a single turn.

 In March 2021, the Manufacture De Bethune presented the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Bold and classic, its double dial was already out of place. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Its complexity has even challenged all limits and now it presents the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, offering a different time zone on each of its sides.

History

Double-sided watches are not a recent invention. For more than two centuries, these singular mechanisms have been born at the hands of erudite watchmakers, open to the new ideas of the Age of Enlightenment and often inspired by astronomy, the decorative arts as well as mechanical engineering.

With horologists increasingly driven by the temptation to develop ever more complicated models, double-sided cases became increasingly prevalent, a solution enabling their creators to express the full scope of their aesthetic and technical expertise by making it possible to display a greater number of functions. The history of horology has been punctuated by certain major accomplishments in this respect. Already during the Renaissance, tower clocks–the most famous of which is located in Venice – had several faces. A little later, certain table clocks with their vertical, four-faceted dials also displayed several identities within a single object. This was followed by pocket watches also featuring two dials, the best-known being the Leroy 01 by Louis Leroy – presented in 1900 and winner of the Grand Prix at the Paris World Fair – which long remained the most complicated watch ever created.

A contemporary take on the double-sided watch

Double-sided watches hold a special place in the realm of highly complicated watches. Beneath the apparent simplicity of this timepiece, De Bethune has clearly not taken the easiest path with this model involving two dials that embody a real watchmaking challenge. Views from back and front reveal an authentic transformation.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

This was an idea that had been taking shape for many years in the mind of Denis Flageollet, who was convinced that it would offer him an unprecedented field of research and the opportunity to provide a different, contemporary interpretation. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Just as with the invention of his silicon balance and balance-spring, as well as the famous floating lugs, it would enable him to make another contribution to the advancement of horology.

Two very different faces, both aesthetically and technically

The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment and the time zone chosen. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

On one side the jumping hour hand of the GMT function, on the other the central jumping second hand Opt for a modern or more traditional design? The initial inspiration was to create a watch with two very different identities, of which the aesthetic aspect guided the technical design of the new calibre entirely developed by Manufacture De Bethune at L’Auberson in the Swiss Jura

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The front side of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT displays a dial featuring a sleek and contemporary design that highlights the mechanics. Indeed, it is a new reading of the hour centred on the balance wheel at 6 o'clock, accompanied by the minute index on the periphery. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a watch integrating the complications of the jumping deadbeat second and the GMT. A deltoid-shaped bridge – perfectly symmetrical – is positioned in the centre, like an isosceles triangle that contributes to the overall sense of harmony.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The GMT side reveals a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10.

The GMT function

Function is complex in its conception, but very simple in its use. The layout of the functions is based on a double display of hours and minutes on both sides. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Firstly, the owner sets his reference time, known as home time and indicated by the hour and minute hands on the 12 o'clock dial, by means of the crown in position 3 on the contemporary side. Secondly, he will set his second time zone on the GMT side, called classic, by the hour and minute hand which is controlled by the crown pulled out to position 2.

Floating lugs playing their role to the full

Every detail has been taken into consideration. Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the "pivoting" of the case. Redesigned especially for the DB Kind of Two, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

For reliability purposes, they are manufactured in stainless materials such as surgical steel or titanium, thus enabling them to withstand the external aggressions of water, humidity, temperature variations and continuous contact with the skin.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Thanks to a cam, a small "notch" allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.

The DB29, a case middle inherently suited to a swivel watch

Finally, the DB29's case middle quickly became a key element in the pivoting case project developed by De Bethune. Its perfectly symmetrical shape offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o'clock (or 6 o'clock depending on the side chosen). It thus swivels naturally and the circumference principle is patently obvious, offering a true understanding of the object.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

All in all, with its elegant design, the combination of contemporary mechanics with a more traditional face, as well as the meticulous care devoted to details, legibility and comfort, the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT perfectly illustrates one of the great principles of the Manufacture De Bethune: reinterpreting grand traditions with a contemporary vision of the horological object, there by opening up a new field of expression that is refined and sophisticated while preserving user-friendliness and simple read-off. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Awork of art with two faces, whose timeless beauty reflects mechanical and aesthetic perfection.

----------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection   Kind of Two

Model: De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Reference: DBK2V1

Functions
Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Second time zone (GMT)

Movement
Calibre DB2517
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the time and the GMT, by means of the crown (3 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2517
Number of parts: 394
Jewelling: 58 rubies
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days
, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
GMT allowing to adjust 2 time zones, different on each side
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Polished and chamfered barrel bridge, with shot-blasted stages
Hand snailed barrels
Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Displays

Contemporary single-sided display
– Display: Polished titanium hours and minutes indication; Minute indication on the periphery; Hour indication centered around the balance wheel at 6 o’clock
– Dial: Silver hour ring with polished blued index; Silver colour minute ring with blue transfer

Classic reverse side display
– Display: hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and dead beat seconds
– Dial: Silvered and relief, with convex levels and guilloché central part

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 43,3 mm
Thickness: 11,4 mm

Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o’clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side
Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3
ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle:
Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

 

 Limitation  Only 15 pieces per year


Price from   195.000 CHF

 --------------------------------------
Press release -- Geneva 2022
--------------------------------------
De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
-----------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - DeBethune
-------------------------------------------------------------
www.DeBethune.ch