Saturday, October 15, 2022

Grand Seiko – KODO Constant-force Tourbillon Unique Piece

  

SEIKOGrand Seiko KODO Constant-force Tourbillon Brilliant Hard Titanium - Unique Piece 2022
 
 A Unique Heartbeat: The Piece-Unique Grand Seiko 
Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001

Grand Seiko reached a new milestone in its sixty-two-year history with the introduction of the brand’s first mechanical complication watch, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. At its heart is a uniquely innovative movement that delivers a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for Grand Seiko by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history. 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat. With its unique appearance when in motion and with its carefully designed sound, this revolutionary watch reveals its vitality both audibly and visually, thanks to the open-work design and the sapphire case back. Most remarkable of all is the way that the constant-force mechanism and the tourbillon have been integrated together to allow the creation of an overall design that is perfectly in harmony with the values of Grand Seiko and whose technical ingenuity is encased in a watch of great elegance and wearability.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon, a concept movement incorporating a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. To bring the concept to life in a finished watch required the complete dedication of a team comprising designers, engineers, and craftsmen and women entrusted with the assembly and finishing of the movement and the case. Each of the 340 components of the caliber was re-examined and, where necessary, re-designed and re-engineered for production. The result is Caliber 9ST1

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Not only is Caliber 9ST1 smaller than its concept movement predecessor, but its high accuracy remains stable for longer thanks to the constant-force mechanism. Furthermore, Caliber 9ST1 sets a new standard of accuracy, verified in a testing procedure during which each movement is tested for a full 48 hours in each of six positions and at three temperatures. This is twice as long as the Grand Seiko Standard.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Each movement is assessed over 34 days to verify its accuracy. When the tests are completed and this new standard has been met or exceeded, the performance characteristics of each movement are defined in the individual certificate provided with every watch.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

For the Kodo model unique piece to be sold exclusively by Phillips Auction, SLGT001, the concept was based on musō 無双. Musō roughly translates to “one and only” or “second to none,” a fitting term for the unique piece exclusive to the auction. This unparalleled model is unique in several ways compared to the global model limited to 20 pieces, reference 👉 SLGT003.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

First, the multi-component case structure is made entirely of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium. This material, which is used on only the outer case and outer construction of the bezel of SLGT003, is used for both the inner and exterior case components to thoroughly reduce weight and achieve a comfortable feel unique to this model. Brilliant Hard Titanium is as light as pure titanium but twice as hard as stainless steel and, therefore, highly resistant to scratches. Its color is brighter than the other forms of titanium used for Grand Seiko, allowing the Zaratsu polished surfaces to stand out more prominently.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bridges, mainplate, and many of the components of the movement are plated in a silver color to create an entirely new aesthetic for the Kodo. A yellow-gold accent for the power reserve and seconds track of the carriage inherits the aesthetic of the T0 concept movement.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The design of the screws for the Kodo model has the appearance of the six arms of the carriages, a trait that cleverly enhances the design but also is pleasant for assembly. The special screwdriver and screws used have an even application of torque, which the designer of T0 and Kodo, Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya, enjoys greatly. For the unique piece SLGT001, the screws are tempered blue by hand instead of being mirror polished as they are on reference SLGT003

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The carriages for the constant-force tourbillon mechanism are titanium to help reduce weight and improve efficiency. They are blue as well, which is executed through anodic oxidation. Anodic Oxidation is a surface treatment in which the titanium carriages are subjected to electrolysis to generate an oxide film artificially. Titanium oxide film produces color according to the light refraction index, enabling the production of different colors by varying the thickness of the oxide film. This once again emulates the styling of the original concept T0.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The GS letters are specially engraved by hand on the Brilliant Hard Titanium clasp by Grand Seiko’s very best engravers. The watch is offered with a calf strap specially treated in the same traditional way as was used to create the high-durability material once used in the armor of the Samurai. The strap’s surface is painted by hand with Urushi lacquer in a multi-coating process that gives the strap a delicate sheen. It is in a brown color specially for this unique piece.  

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Accompanying the unique piece Kodo SLGT001, will be an exclusive trip to Japan to meet its creators, the Grand Seiko team, a visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in the lovely Iwate prefecture.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

A portion of the sale will be donated to the Children’s Heart Foundation. The Children’s Heart Foundation is the leading organization dedicated to funding congenital heart defect research. 

=============------

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Model:   Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon Unique Piece

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Ref. SLGT001

Movement
Caliber 9ST1
Driving system: manual-winding
Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
Accuracy: +5 to -3 seconds per day (when static for 48 hours)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Number of jewels: 44
Constant-force Tourbillon
(Constant-force: 50 Hours)
Diameter: 35.0mm, Thickness: 7.98mm

Functions
    Water resistance :    10 bar
    Magnetic resistance :    4,800 A/m
    Other details / Features :    
        ・Case back with 6 screws
        ・Unique Piece on the case back
        ・Power reserve indicator
        ・See-through case back
        ・Serial number engraved on the case back

 Exterior
    Case Material :  Brilliant Hard Titanium
    Glass Material : Box shaped sapphire crystal
    Glass Coating :  Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
    Case size : Diameter 43.8mm  Lug-to-lug 50.6mm  Thickness 12.9mm
    Clasp type : Platinum 950 three-fold clasp with push button release

Option strap
XGL00122
Band width:22mm
Clasp width:18mm
Color:Brown
Material:Crocodile
It will be available from 2022.11

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 Unique Piece will be auctioned in the upcoming Phillips The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN on December 10-11, 2022 in New York City.

Edition - Unique Piece

 ------------------------------
Press releases - 2022
-----------------------------
--------------------------------------------
www.grand-seiko.com
---------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Seiko
---------------------------------------------------
SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone +81 3 6739 2150
Telefax +81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
----------------------------------------------------------------
www.SeikoWatches.com

Friday, October 14, 2022

Glashutte Original – SeaQ Chronograph Blue Dials Automatic

 

Glashutte OriginalSpezialist SeaQ Chronograph Blue Dials Automatic 2022

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 Write your own adventure!
The SeaQ Chronograph celebrates its premiere

Once again, the manufactory from the German watchmaking town of Glashütte presents the real thing – a genuine original in more ways than one. The new SeaQ Chronograph is the first diver’s watch from Glashütte Original to be equipped with a chronograph movement. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The new model features a handmade automatic movement designed to accompany contemporary adventurers wherever they go – a challenge the designers at Glashütte Original took on with great sensitivity and creativity. The result? A modern mechanical movement full of originality.

The challenge

In developing the new chronograph, Glashütte Original based the design concept on four considerations: how can it be made as accurate, robust, easy to use and aesthetically pleasing as possible? For the new SeaQ Chronograph, the bar was set exceptionally high. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The objective was to develop a flyback chronograph that handles short-term measurement reliably and to combine it with a watch that meets the rigorous requirements of the ISO and DIN standards for diver’s watches. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The stakes could not be higher: to ensure that a handmade, finely crafted mechanism was ready – not just for everyday use, but for extreme conditions.

Short-term measurement meets diver’s watch

A diver’s life may well depend on their watch functioning properly. For this reason, the watches in the SeaQ family are subjected to rigorous testing to ensure they meet the ISO 6425 and DIN 8306 standards. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

They must withstand extreme temperature changes, resist saltwater corrosion, ensure optimal legibility in the dark and have a unidirectional rotating bezel with a scale allowing the diver to determine how much time remains for the dive. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

For the water resistance test, Glashütte Original exceeded the standard and tested the SeaQ up to a pressure of 30 bar (300 meters). The watchmaker also set its own high standards for the chronograph: the watch had to have a column wheel switch and a flyback mechanism. The designers took these and many other aspects into account as they developed the SeaQ Chronograph.

Under the loupe: a tiny turn for greater shock resistance

One of the requirements for diver’s watches: shock resistance from a height of one meter. Apparently straightforward, it’s a nightmare for everyone who owns a mechanical watch – in reality a situation one would avoid at all costs.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The watchmakers at Glashütte Original examined this aspect closely, using a special device under laboratory conditions. In particular, the key point – if the watch is dropped – is to ensure that the dial does not buckle or warp on impact, which could interfere with, or even block, the hands. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

As a result, the designers placed a hollow hexagonal socket screw, made of stainless steel, in the centre of the dial. It is placed from above over the hand shafts, thus fixing the dial to the plate before the hands are mounted. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Thanks to this small but very effective construction detail, the dial remains securely in place, even in the event of a shock.

Under the loupe: even more space for rate precision

Both resistance and rate precision are of fundamental importance for the functional reliability of a mechanical watch. This also involves the effort to achieve optimally uniform – isochronous – oscillation of the balance, in every position and even while the chronograph is running. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

For this reason, Glashütte Original’s designers chose to intervene directly in the architecture of the SeaQ Chronograph movement. The balance was given more space, allowing it to oscillate unhindered and thus gain a few degrees of valuable amplitude. They created space to move freely – for the watch and the person wearing it.

Under the loupe: a versatile crown offers even greater ease of use

The SeaQ Chronograph’s short-term measurement is a world of its own. It features a flyback function, i.e. reset and restart of the stop hand on the fly, central stop-seconds, and a 30- minute counter at 3 o’clock; all are operated using the two pushers on the edge of the case. In addition, Glashütte Original’s signature Panorama Date is found just above 6 o’clock. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

All of these displays are easily set via the crown: in position 1, the automatic movement is wound, in position 2 the date can be corrected, and in position 3, the time can be set while the second stop is activated. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

This design made it possible to do without a separate date corrector on the side of the case, thus enhancing the water resistance of the watch.

A contemporary chronograph movement

The automatic movement Calibre 37-23 combines maximum resistance, precision and userfriendliness with a running time of over 70 hours. The silicon balance spring offers enhanced resistance to the influence of magnetic fields, for example, and thanks to its steady oscillation, greater rate precision. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The entire movement is elaborately decorated by hand with great skill and sensitivity, and can be admired through its sapphire crystal case back – by no means a given with a diver’s watch.

A sporty and elegant companion for any and all adventures

The debut model of the SeaQ Chronograph is dressed in dark blue, from the handmade dial to the unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic inlay. The hour, minute and stop-seconds hands are coated with highly luminous Super-LumiNova®, as are the indexes and the triangle symbol on the bezel. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  The stainless steel case, 43.2 mm in diameter, is fitted front and back with sapphire crystals, and the fluted screw-down crown has a fine wave decoration. Four different straps are available: a dark blue rubber strap, a stainless steel link bracelet, and two synthetic fabric straps made from recycled fishnets, in grey or blu

A special premiere

For the Glashütte Original team, the development of the new SeaQ Chronograph turned into a multi-year voyage of discovery. Now the watch is ready to accompany its owners from all over the world on their own uniquely individual adventures. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The new SeaQ Chronograph is available as of October 2022 from all Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide.

  -----------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection : Spezialist

 Model name:  SeaQ Chronograph Blue Dials Automatic

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Reference: 1-37-23-02-81-33 (rubber strap)
Reference: 1-37-23-02-81-34 (grey fabric strap)

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Reference: 1-37-23-02-81-36 (blue fabric strap)
Reference: 1-37-23-02-81-70 (metal bracelet)

Case
    Material:
Polished/satin-brushed stainless steel
    Diameter: 43.2 mm
    Rotating bezel with ceramic inlay
    Glass: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both sides
    Engraved case back with sapphire crystal
    Water-resistant to 300 metres (30 bar)
Dial and hands
    PVD blue, rhodium-plated appliques with Super-LumiNova®
Movement
    Calibre 37-23
, automatic winding, finely finished
    Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
    Power reserve of 70
hours
Functions/Indications
    Hour, minute (central), small second
    Chronograph with flyback, stop seconds (central), 30-minute counter
Strap and buckle
    Black rubber with pin buckle or folding clasp
    Grey synthetic fabric with pin buckle or folding clasp
    Blue synthetic fabric with pin buckle or folding clasp
    Stainless steel bracelet with fine adjustment mechanism

MSRP
    EUR 14,400, fold fastener (1-37-23-02-81-33)
    EUR 14,100, clasp (1-37-23-02-81-06)
    EUR 15,300, fold fastener (1-37-23-02-81-70)


 

Price: from 13,500 Euro

Launch year: 2022

---------------------------------
Press Release - 2022
---------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
For further information please contact:
Glashütte Original I Press Office
Altenberger Strasse 1 I D-01768 Glashütte i. Sa.
Telephone: +49 (0) 350 53 46 - 0
E-Mail: pr@glashuette-original.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Glashuette Original
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.Glashuette-Original.com