Wednesday, October 5, 2022

URWERK – UR-120 aka Spock

 

URWERK UR-SATELLITE UR-120aka SpockTitanium / Steel Bezel Automatic 2022

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The UR-120 aka Spock
« Live long and prosper! »

 
Hand up, palm forward, fingers parted in the middle, and then the greeting: « Live long and prosper! » This is a meme known to all Trekkies, almost a world heritage, a salutation that rings like a blessing. This sign is also an integral part of URWERK's brand DNA. It's had pride of place on a wall of the Geneva workshop for ages. And now, so does it above the mainplate of the new UR-120, whose time display reproduces the Vulcan salute. Such is the latest challenge Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have taken on, with the hope that it too shall live long and prosper.

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At the crossroad of technical advancement, watchmaking development and space-time inspiration, the UR-120 is a new stage in the constant mutation of the URWERK species. This UR-120 furthers the codes of the UR-110 collection and reshapes its concept. Martin Frei, co-founder and Artistic Director of the brand, goes back up on the ring for a new challenge, 11 years after the UR-110 won the Design Watch Prize at the 2011 GPHG. « I just loved the UR-110, but there were so many other ways to go about it, to keep it evolving...That's what a designer's mind is like. The process is never-ending. » And so Martin Frei went back to the drawing board. « The idea was to go in a thinner, smoother, more elegant direction. To do that, we redesigned the entire satellite system. Each satellite is now made of two sub-elements to make it thinner, easier to read and to give it unprecedented fluidity. »
 
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This new satellite display of the UR-120 was born 16.5 million light-years from Earth, in the Beta Quadrant. That's where the original inspiration for its display, a V-shaped open hand, is customary: in Mr. Spock's civilization, on Vulcan. It relies on rotating satellites which split open so they can spin, each on their own axis. This unprecedented innovation allows for a substantial gain in thickness.  

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It translates into a unique volume. At 44 mm long, 47 mm wide and 15.8 mm thick, the UR-120 case stands out with its perfect sense of ergonomics. Maximum height is reached in the middle of the sapphire glass, at the apex of a gentle curve. The upper part of the case is totally smooth, without a single screw or notch, offering perfectly fluid lines.

Driving force
 
The latest celestial object in URWERK's constellation relies on splitting satellites. Inside calibre UR-20.01, the central carousel is fitted with three arms, each one bearing a satellite. All four sides of said satellite bears an hour marker. 
 
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When it exits the minute track and reaches the left part of the case, it actuates a trigger that commands the changing of the satellite face. The latter then shows its true nature with an unprecedented kinematic sequence.

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The satellite splits open, revealing two rectangular studs. They take on a V shape, thus recreating the Vulcan salute that ultimately gave the UR-120 its nickname. Once separated, both studs spin on their own axis and shut, all in order to display the new hour unit.

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There is a triple revolution taking place under the hood of this spacecraft: the satellite-bearing carousel spins on a central axis, each satellite counter-spins in order to remain upright and therefore readable and each stud spins on its own axis.
 
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The other aspects of the display remain typical of the original URWERK species: the satellite carousel moves along the minute track sector, located at the right-hand side of the case. The side shown by the satellite and its position on that scale tell the hour and the minute.

Creative energy
 
« In truth, when we realized we were going to have to open the satellite, I was over the moon, says Felix Baumgartner, URWERK's co-founder and master watchmaker. Our biggest challenge has always been to manage forces. At the exact moment of the salute, a lyre-shaped spring opens and then closes the satellite. Managing energy then and there is complex and very subtle. We need to manage the opening AND the stud rotation. We ended up manufacturing the spring ourselves, in-house, because we had to go through so many trials while defining its geometry and thickness. With the UR-120, we also experienced a considerable gain in readability: the hour markers these opening studs allowed have grown bigger by 35% compared to the UR-110. »
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As a rule, the way URWERK's creations are built and their dimensions result from technical constraints, and chief among them, the volume requirement of the display. A major part of URWERK's very nature is the ability to turn this spatial constraint into a design and watchmaking showmanship opportunity. It then becomes part of the global conversation on imagination, dreaming and the creative drive that keeps watches moving forward.

Principles of ergonomics
 
On top of this new watchmaking system and the volume it allows, UR-120 heralds several new design elements. Martin Frei acknowledges a personal interpretation of Gerald Genta's own design approach. « I've always loved the way his cases are constructed, with an intertwined lower case and upper case. Technically speaking, that's very smart. » And so, the UR-120 case is made up of two interlocking parts, equivalent to a caseback and a bezel. They connect seamlessly with the help of lateral screws.

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A further element of fluidity is provided by the presence of lugs on the UR-120, which are a rare occurrence in the line of URWERK creations. What's more, they're articulated. Inside the one located at 6 o'clock, URWERK has fitted a spring, which is part of the way the strap rests on and sticks to the wrist. The material this strap is made of is another novelty. Rather than its traditional technical fabric, URWERK went for calf leather, embossed with a ballistic-type pattern. It's reminiscent of a woven nylon while offering superior comfort and flexibility.

First edition
 
UR-120's first series takes on an almost entirely gray form. The upper-case part, the bezel, is made of finely sandblasted steel. The lower part is made of sandblasted titanium and opens up a new design era.
 
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A small window offers a direct view on the Windfänger, the star-shaped component which regulates the automatic winding intensity. In the center, a large medallion harbors two types of finishing: deep grooves all over and at 9 o'clock, a plaque bearing the URWERK monogram. The crown is crafted out of steel and the strap is also gray.

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That monochromatic continuum is interspersed with golden shards. All Maltese crosses and lyre-shaped springs are 24ct-gold PVD treated, which underlines the technical aspects of this timepiece. Not unlike the Bussard ramjets at the front of the Enterprise's warp engines.

« Live long and prosper! »

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Collection: UR-SATELLITE

Model: UR-120 aka Spock Automatic Edition

Movement
Caliber:    UR-20.01, self-winding
Jewels:         32
Escapement:    Swiss lever
Frequency:    4 Hz; 28,800 vph
Power reserve:    48 hours
Materials:   
Beryllium-copper, grey PVD brass, gold-PVD and black-rhodium, anodized aluminum, ARCAP, titanium, LIGA-processed nickel
Hand finishing:   
Circular- and straight-graining, sandblasting, côtes de Genève, polished screw heads
Finishes: Circular graining, sanding, shot-blasting, circular satin finishing
Chamfered screw heads
Hours and minutes painted in Super-LumiNova®
Display
Analog minutes and digital hours satellites mounted on triple planetary gears
Case
Dimensions:    Width 47 mm; length 44 mm; thickness 15,8mm
Materials:   
Sandblasted titanium, sandblasted steel bezel
Crystal:       
Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance:   
Pressure-tested to 3ATM / 30m / 100ft
STRAP
Black calf leather with embossed Cordura pattern.

Price   CHF 120,000 (Swiss francs /wo. tax)


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Press Release - 2022
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Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65 
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www.Urwerk.com

Tuesday, October 4, 2022

PANERAI – Luminor Due Luna Moon Phase Collection 2022

 

OFFICINE PANERAI Luminor Due Luna Moon Phase 38mm Automatic 2022

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Moon Phase to a Signature Panerai Collection

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With its lean proportions and sharp styling, Panerai Luminor Due reinterprets the unmistakable shape and features of the iconic Luminor collection in a refined form that is equally suited to casual wear and elegant environments that call for elevated dressing.

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Originally a time-only model, a complication has been introduced to the collection for the very first time.  

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The moon phase, among the most poetic complications, is the centrepiece of Luminor Due Luna—the final word in its name being the Italian word for moon, which appears on the dial.

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Available in four iterations, all in a 38mm that appeals to a broad spectrum of wearers, it promises to become a key pillar of the Luminor Due family. 

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In each variation, the complication, situated at 3 o’clock, exhibits a rotating disc with a 24 carats moon against a starry midnight blue sky. 

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The various references have distinct aesthetic sensibilities that appeal to a broad audience. Luminor Due Luna Madreperla features a mother-of-pearl dial and case made from Panerai Goldtech™, an alloy containing platinum and a high percentage of copper; the combination endows the metal with a deep, red tone.

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Applied numerals and indexes with white Super-LumiNova™ appear on the dial, while a polished alligator strap is a lustrous finishing touch. The open caseback reveals the workings of automatic 3 days power reserve calibre P900/MP within.

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Two Luminor Due Luna references—both with steel cases—feature white sun-brushed dials with the signature Panerai sandwich structure and beige Super-Luminova™ within their numerals, indexes, and hands.

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While one boasts a polished pink alligator strap (PAM01180), the other includes a Luminor Due steel bracelet whose links echo the profile of the trademarked Panerai crown-protection device, a quality accentuated by alternating polished and brushed finishes. 

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Polishing along the edges of the curved links endows the bracelet with added dimension and refinement.

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A final option, with a steel case, sun-brushed blue sandwich dial (PAM01179), and matching polished blue alligator strap, has a handsome monochrome presence.

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Luminor Due features Calibre P900/MP, measuring only 5.9mm thick, is an automatic movement with a three-day power reserve.

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Water-resistant to 3 bar (about 30 meters), Luminor Due Luna references (PAM01179, PAM01180, PAM01181) feature the quick release system to permit changing straps without using tools. 

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Pressure applied to the back of the strap releases it from the case, and it can be replaced with equal ease.

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Building a collection of straps allows Luminor Due Luna to transform its appearance endlessly. 

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And the introduction of Luminor Due satin straps, leather straps with a satin-like texture and sheen, further multiplies the options available to owners of Luminor Due Luna or any other watch from the Luminor Due family.

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 TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS   

Model: Luminor Due Luna Moon Phase

  • Ref. PAM01179 (steel, blue dial, strap)
  • Ref. PAM01180 (steel, white dial, strap)
  • Ref. PAM01181 (gold, mother of pearl dial, strap)
  • Ref. PAM01301 (steel, white dial, bracelet)

MOVEMENT
Automatic mechanical, P.900/MP caliber,
12 ½ lignes, 5.9mm thick, 17 recycled jewels,
23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour. 
Incabloc™ anti-shock device. 
One barrel. 201 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: Three days ( 72H )
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Moon phase at 3 o’clock
DIAL

  • Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
  • White sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 

Moon phase at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
CASE
Polished Steel
Diameter 38mm
Bezel: Polished Steel
Back: Polished Steel with engraving.
Device protecting the crown: (Protected as a trademark) Polished Steel
Water-resistance: 30 bar (~300 metres)
Crystal: Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
STRAP
Alligator with pin buckle or steel bracelet
Buckle: Polished Steel

Price:
PAM01179US$ 9,300, or 13,100 Singapore dollars

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PAM01180 US$ 9,300, or 13,100 Singapore dollars

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  • Ref. PAM01181 (gold, mother of pearl dial, strap)
  • Ref. PAM01301 (steel, white dial, bracelet)

MOVEMENT
Automatic mechanical, P.900/MP caliber,
12 ½ lignes, 5.9mm thick, 17 recycled jewels,
23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour. 
Incabloc™ anti-shock device. 
One barrel. 201 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: Three days ( 72H )
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Moon phase at 3 o’clock
DIAL

  • White mother of pearl with golden luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
  • White sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.. 

Moon phase at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
CASE

  • Goldtech™
  • Polished Steel

Diameter 38mm
Bezel: Polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel
Back: Polished Goldtech™ bezel with engraving.
Device protecting the crown: (Protected as a trademark) polished Goldtech™ bezel
Water-resistance: 30 bar (~300 metres)
Crystal: Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
STRAP
Alligator with pin buckle or steel bracelet
Buckle: Polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel

Price:
PAM01181US$ 20,600, or 29,200 Singapore dollars

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PAM01301US$ 10,100, or 14,300 Singapore dollars

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Press release- 2022
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