Monday, September 12, 2022

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm Black Ceramic

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm Black Ceramic 50th Anniversary - 2022

 UNVEILS ITS FIRST 41 MM
ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH CRAFTED IN BLACK CERAMIC

Le Brassus, September 2022 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer, Audemars Piguet, is pleased to unveil a new version of its 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph, for the first time, crafted in black ceramic. As the Manufacture celebrates the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this new reference features the collection’s latest dial design and “50-years” dedicated anniversary oscillating weight.

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The Manufacture reveals its first 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph entirely crafted in black ceramic for the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. The pink gold accents illuminating this all-black timepiece provide an elegant contrast. © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

EXPERTLY CRAFTED IN BLACK CERAMIC

This latest version of the 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is encased in black ceramic with contrasting pink gold accents appearing on the dial. Beyond its aesthetic charms, ceramic requires much expertise. 

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It necessitates a complex manufacturing process and the use of several hand-finishing techniques. Its composition unites Zirconium Oxide (ZrO2) powder with a specific binder, albeit the precise composition of the ceramic remains a closely guarded secret. Once the material is sintered at a temperature of approximately 1400°C, its final colour is revealed, appearing homogenous throughout.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOWhile black ceramic exhibits a contemporary appearance, it draws on the traditions of the Manufacture’s craftsmanship. Each ceramic component is pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed prior to being finished by hand, culminating in polished chamfers juxtaposed with Audemars Piguet’s trademark satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The resultant material is ultra-resistant, scratchproof and attractively engaging with light.

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The black dial incorporates a Grande Tapisserie pattern and matching counters enhanced by fine pink-gold-toned threads. Additional pink gold highlights, including applied hour-markers, Royal Oak hands and the Audemars Piguet signature, deliver eye-catching contrast.

AN EVER EVOLVING DESIGN

To celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph housed in black ceramic sports the collection’s new evolutionary dial design. The artisans have harmonised the size of the luminescent facetted hour-markers and the hands – both recognisable codes of the Royal Oak – while retaining their aesthetics, reinforcing the coherence between the different models across the collection, regardless of diameter and material.

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In addition, the logo has been reworked. A gold Audemars Piguet signature endowed with a unique topography now replaces the applied AP monogram and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET” at 12 o’clock. The embossed signature adorning the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models was originally conceived for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. Made of thin layers of 24-carat gold, the signature is achieved through a chemical process akin to 3D printing known as galvanic growth. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs almost invisible to the naked eye.

By increasing the size of the small seconds display, all three counters share the same diameter, augmenting readability. The central sweep seconds hand features a new style of counterweight encompassing a new trapezoidal openworked profile. For its part, the black ceramic bracelet has been slightly revised for more visual appeal. The pins connecting the links to the studs are no longer visible on the bracelet’s sides, but fitted directly into the studs.

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Lastly, this new version of the 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is fitted with a dedicated anniversary openworked oscillating weight in blackened 22-carat gold, which features the “50-years” logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature. On this occasion, the oscillating weight has been blackened in order to match the colour of the case – a practice usually reserved for complicated timepieces. Similar to the case, the oscillating weight has been finished with alternating satin-finished surfaces and polished chamfers.

A FULLY INTEGRATED CHRONOGRAPH

At the heart of each reference is the Manufacture’s latest generation chronograph movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4401. It is fully integrated and features a column wheel and a flyback function. Unlike a regular chronograph, the flyback function allows the wearer to stop, reset and start the chronograph in one simple action. The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. 

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When starting or stopping the chronograph, the hands respond accordingly without any hint of jumping. Furthermore, the push-pieces feel smooth when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero. The movement is adorned with refined finishing, including Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers throughout, all of which are visible via the sapphire caseback.

AT THE VANGUARD OF CERAMIC

Audemars Piguet’s first foray into ceramics can be traced back to around 1986 when the Manufacture released the feminine Bamboo collection. This series of models featured two-tone bracelets, pairing diamond-set gold with ceramic in red, white or black hues.

Ceramic materials reappeared in the company’s portfolio in the early 2000s, albeit they were presented in a completely different style. The Manufacture’s innovative spirit has also led it to release Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept references encompassing cutting-edge materials paired with ceramic elements.

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 Black ceramic made its appearance in the Royal Oak collection in 2017 with the first all-black ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in a case diameter of 41 mm. For the first time in the Manufacture’s history, the watch presented a bracelet fully crafted in ceramic, enhancing the collection’s silhouette and hand-finishing techniques. This model was complemented with a white ceramic version a year later. Other Royal Oak complications dressed in black ceramic followed, including the Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked (2018), the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked (2019), the Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin (2019), the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked (2020), as well as the Royal Oak Selfwinding in 34 mm (2021).

Audemars Piguet continues to experiment with the material and expand the collection’s offering today with its very first Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph all crafted in ceramic.

Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  
Royal Oak Selfwinding / 41 mm

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Ref. 26240CE.OO.1225CE.01  

 
MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 4401
Total diameter                 32 mm (14 lignes)                   
Total thickness                6.8 mm               
Number of parts                381               
Number of jewels            40                           
Minimum power reserve guaranteed    70 h           
Frequency of balance wheel        4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)   

FUNCTIONS
Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date.
CASE
Black ceramic case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, sapphire and titanium caseback, black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50m.
DIAL
Black dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, black counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BRACELET
Black ceramic bracelet with titanium AP folding clasp.

🔴 Price : incl. VAT 66'700 CHF 💰
 

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Press Release - 2022
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Friday, September 9, 2022

HAUTLENCE – LINEAR Series 1 Tourbillon Edition


HAUTLENCE LINEAR Series 1 Tourbillon Edition 2022

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HAUTLENCE embarks on a new chapter of a story that began in 2004. The brand originally founded in Neuchâtel has been completely revamped, with new positioning and a new structure headed by Samuel Hoffmann. To celebrate this major development, HAUTLENCE unveiled the Linear Series 1 model at the Geneva Watch Days. 

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A new calibre, a reworked case water resistant to 10 ATM, an integrated rubber strap and, most importantly, a brand new way of reading the time. Reconnecting with its original DNA and returning to its roots, HAUTLENCE continues to revolutionise time reading by adding a new dimension to time itself. 

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Following on from the jumping hour disc, the half-trailing hour chain and the jumping hour that spins on a sphere, it now presents a linear retrograde jumping hour.

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A fresh new wind of change is blowing through HAUTLENCE. With a new structure based in Schaffhausen and operational support from its sister company, H. Moser & Cie., the brand is now being headed by Samuel Hoffmann, who has also introduced a new brand concept and product strategy. Samuel has injected a new dynamism and fresh ideas, while ensuring continuity with the brand’s direction over recent years. The result is the Linear Series 1 model, which kicks off this major new step for the Maison.

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On the left of the dial, a graduated scale resembling those used on precision measuring instruments indicates the hours using a linkage. This large, very slim linkage recalls the one used in the first movement developed by HAUTLENCE in 2004: the calibre HL. On the Linear Series 1 model, a small white pointer on the end of the linkage indicates the hour on the vertical scale. 

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 Once the 12 numeral is passed, the snail disengages the probe to release the accumulated energy. The linkage then jumps and returns to the 1 numeral. In addition to the linear retrograde jumping hour, the Linear Series 1 is equipped with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, whose balletic movement can be admired behind its blue skeletonised bridge.

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As always at HAUTLENCE, the dial is constructed on several levels. An additional sapphire dial featuring the minute numerals sits on top of the base dial in rhodium-plated brass with a vertical satin finish. The main dial is partially open to allow parts of the movement to be seen. One component visible through the opening is the minute cam. This is integral with the minute hand, which rotates once per hour and lifts the minute sector as the hour elapses. After 60 minutes, the minute sector falls back, driving the hour star which includes the hour cam.

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The reworked steel case adopts HAUTLENCE‘s signature TV screen shape, but with a modernised aesthetic. Relief forms on the sides add volume and dynamism. As part of the sporty personality – a new departure for HAUTLENCE – the watch offers water resistance to 10 ATM and exceptional durability. The fluted bezel features a rubber band in the same blue as the integrated rubber strap, to facilitate time setting. The Linear Series 1 model is a compact watch with balanced proportions that can be perfectly adjusted on the wrist, making it suitable for any occasion.

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The calibre D50 self-winding movement is the motor that drives the Linear Series 1. Equipped with a module created in collaboration with Agenhor, it comprises 239 components, oscillates at a frequency of 3 hertz and offers a power reserve of 72 hours. The finely chased oscillating weight recalls the brand’s famous Moebius. Technically and aesthetically perfect, the component drives this unique timepiece which marks an unmistakable moment of renewal for the HAUTLENCE brand.

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HAUTLENCE
: a pioneer of modern, architectural horology and a catalyst for progressive independent watchmaking.

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Technical Specifications

 Collection: LINEAR

Model: LINEAR Series 1 Tourbillon Edition

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 Reference AD50-ST00

Movement
Calibre D50
self-winding mechanical movement
Linear retrograde jumping hour and 1 minute flying tourbillon
Power reserve: minimum of 72 hours
Regulating organ: 21,600
vibrations / hour
Number of components: 239
Number of jewels: 39

Case
Case middle and horns: satin-finished and polished steel;
Dimensions (excluding dome): 43.0 x 50.8 x 11.9 mm / 10.9 mm
Bezel: satin-finished and polished steel
Crown: polished steel with engraved HAUTLENCE logo
Glass: extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment;
Back: sapphire crystal engraved with “HAUTLENCE”, “10 ATM WATER RESISTANT”, “Horlogerie Suisse”; excluding sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Dial
Base dial: skeletonised rhodium-plated brass with vertical satin finish. Engraved minute track. 

  •     TV Shaped case in 16x9 format
  •     Linear retrograde jumping hours
  •     Multi layered dial
  •     3D Globolight® indexes

Intermediate dial: sapphire with printed minute track in blue and white.
Strap
Blue rubber;
Clasp: steel.

 Limited edition 28 pieces

🔴Price 59'000 CHF💰

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Press Release - 2022
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Contact us for any further information:
Guillaume Tetu, CEO and Co-founder - g.tetu@hautlence.com
Caroline Büchler, Marketing & Communication Manager - c.buechler@hautlence.com
Feel free to contact us for any further information:
Press@hautlence.com 
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