Thursday, September 1, 2022

MB&F – Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO Edition

 

MB&FLegacy Machine Split Escapement EVO and Split Escapement EVO Beverly Hills Edition - 2022

The EVO collection grows in importance

Following the LM Perpetual EVO, the LM Sequential EVO, and the LM Split Escapement EVO (first introduced as a limited edition for the United Arab Emirates’ 50th anniversary), MB&F is now introducing two new EVO editions, proving that EVO is becoming a collection in its own right. 

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THE STORY OF THE LM SPLIT ESCAPEMENT

Like all good stories, it is worth starting at the very beginning. The idea behind the LM Split Escapement started life in 2015 with the LM Perpetual. Designed and conceived by Northern Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, there were two criteria for the perpetual calendar: make it fool-proof; and display MB&F’s signature flying balance wheel in the centre of the dial. McDonnell was soon to realise that there was a problem: there was nowhere to put the escapement. The concept had worked with previous Legacy Machines, where the balance wheel was on the front of the watch along with the escapement, but with the perpetual calendar display of the more complex LM Perpetual, there was simply no room for both.

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A man of solutions, McDonnell had the ingenious idea of creating the world’s longest balance staff that would traverse the entire movement, leaving the large balance wheel on its own, on the front of the watch, and moving the remaining parts of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – to the opposite side of the movement, almost 12 mm below; hence the name ‘Split Escapement’.

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When the LM Perpetual was unveiled, there were so many innovations to talk about that the split escapement went largely unnoticed. So, in 2017, MB&F decided to create the LM Split Escapement (LM SE) to highlight McDonnell’s genius idea. The manual-winding, 298-component movement is driven by double barrels providing 72 hours of power reserve, and features a user-friendly, foolproof rapid date-changing system that prevents the user from inadvertently damaging the movement when adjusting the date.

EVO-LUTION

The first editions of the LM Split Escapement were presented in MB&F’s classic Legacy Machine case – but the collection now also features the EVO case, conceived for a more active lifestyle.

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This new case design first came to life in 2020 in the form of the LM Perpetual EVO; it features 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap and a bezel-free design. But the EVO concept goes deeper: inside the case, the movement is suspended thanks to a world-premiere, monobloc shock-absorbing “FlexRing” system, dampening the kind of vertical and horizontal shocks that come with real-life adventures.

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After the LM Perpetual EVO, the EVO case worked its way further into the Legacy Machine collection: most recently and with a bang, in the form of MB&F’s first-ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. But previously and more discreetly, with a 10-piece limited edition LM Split Escapement EVO, presented quietly on the occasion of the UAE’s Golden Jubilee.

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In addition to the EVO case, that Golden Jubilee edition featured a change that radically modified the design of the LM Split Escapement: the entire mechanism was rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, with the crown at 4:30 instead of 2 o’clock – completely changing the symmetry of the watch, giving it a totally new character.

THE NEW ICY-COOL EDITION

MB&F is now unveiling not one, but two new LM SE EVO editions. The first comes in grade 5 titanium with an icy blue base plate and slate grey dial and opened counters that will make you shiver, in a good way.

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Another feature is the special darkened treatment on the movement side, creating heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details – symbolically echoing the contrast between the active, contemporary nature of the EVO collection and the traditional finishing of the movement. MB&F is one of only a handful of artisanal brands that continue to finish components painstakingly by hand, making the view of the movement as mesmerizing as the dial.

THE BEVERLY HILLS EDITION
 
The second edition is the first of a series of limited editions that will be reserved exclusively for the MB&F LABs – a new retail format building on the success of MB&F’s M.A.D.Galleries, combining MB&F timepieces with a limited number of art pieces, but adapted to spaces not quite large enough to host a full-fledged M.A.D.Gallery. 
 
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This year should see the opening of MB&F LABs in Paris, Singapore and Beverly Hills – with this edition having been designed exclusively for the one on Los AngelesRodeo Drive.

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The Beverly Hills MB&F LAB is managed by the renowned American watch retailer Westime, who has not only been a partner of the brand since the very beginning, but is also one of the first to open an MB&F LAB

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This new edition of 25 pieces comes in Westime’s corporate colours of blue and black with a striking black base plate and metallic blue dial and open counters. It will be the only MB&F LAB edition released this year.  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   LEGACY MACHINE SPLIT ESCAPEMENT EVO

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MB&FLM Split Escapement EVO

Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO is available in two versions:
  • - Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with pastel blue baseplate and dark grey dials.
  • - Beverly Hills edition: limited edition of 25 pieces in grade 5 titanium case with black baseplate and blue dials.

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MB&FLM Split Escapement EVO Beverly Hills Edition

Engine
Movement developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell.
Split escapement with the balance wheel suspended above the dial and the anchor under the movement.
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Super-LumiNova on numerals and hands.
Screw down crown.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Number of components: 298
Number of jewels: 35
Functions & indications
Hours, minutes, date and power-reserve indicators.
Push-button next to the date dial for quick adjustment of the date.
Case
Material: grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 17.5mm
Number of components: 52
Water resistance: 80m / 8ATM / 270 feet
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Integrated rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.

'FRIENDS' RESPONSIBLE FOR LEGACY MACHINE
SPLIT ESCAPEMENT EVO

Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
Movement design and finish specifications: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
Movement development: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
R&D: Thomas Lorenzato, Joey Miserez, Maël Mendel and Pierre-Alexandre Gamet / MB&F

Wheels, bridges, pinions and axis: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode, Atokalpa, Paul-André Tendon / Bandi, Daniel Gumy / Decobar Swiss, Rodrigue Baume / HorloFab, DMP, and Le Temps Retrouvé.
Balance wheel: Andréas Kurt / Precision Engineering, Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP and Marc Bolis / 2B8
Barrel: Stefan Schwab / Schwab-Feller and Swiss Manufacturing
Perpetual calendar parts: Alain Pellet / Elefil
Hand-engraving of movement: Glypto
FlexRing: Laser Automation
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C-L Rochat
PVD/CVD-treatment: Pierre-Albert Steinmann / Positive Coating
Case and movements components: Alain Lemarchand, Jean-Baptiste Prétot, Stéphanie Carvalho and Fabien Ramazzina / MB&F
Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre, Henri Porteboeuf and Mathieu Lecoultre / MB&F
After-Sales service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
Quality Control: Cyril Fallet and Jennifer Longuepez / MB&F
Case decoration: Sandra Lambert / Bripoli, Giuseppe Di Stefano / STG Création
Dial: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger
Super-LumiNova on the dials: Frédérique Thierry / Monyco
Buckle: G&F Chatelain
Crown and correctors: Cheval Frères
Hands: Waeber HMS
Sapphire crystals: Stettler
Anti-refection treatment for sapphire crystals: Anthony Schwab / Econorm
Strap: Thierry Rognon / Valiance, BIWI
Presentation box: Olivier Berthon / Soixanteetonze
Logistics and production: David Lamy, Ashley Moussier, Fanny Boutier, Houda Fayroud and Mélanie Ataide / MB&F

Marketing & Communication: Charris Yadigaroglou, Vanessa André, Arnaud Légeret and Paul Gay / MB&F
M.A.D.Gallery: Hervé Estienne / MB&F
Sales: Thibault Verdonckt, Virginie Marchon, Cédric Roussel, Jean-Marc Bories and Augustin Chivot / MB&F
Graphic design: Sidonie Bays / MB&F
Product photography: Maarten van der Ende and Laurent-Xavier Moulin
Portrait photography: Régis Golay / Federal
Webmaster: Stéphane Balet / Idéative
Film: Marc-André Deschoux / MAD LUX, Manouil Karapetsis and Dominik Lang / Brosky Media
Texts: Sophie Furley / WorldTempus

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Press Release - 2022
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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www.MBandF.com

Wednesday, August 31, 2022

KEES Engelbarts – Mokume Gane Dragon – Unique Piece

KEES EngelbartsMokume Gane Dragon 925 Argentium Silver  – Unique Piece

Kees Engelbarts perpetuates his long-standing series of unique engraved timepieces inspired by japanese myths with this mokume-gane dragon watch. The dragon is engraved out of one solid piece of mokume-gane in low-relief and the background has been etched to enhance texture and contrast.

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Kees Engelbarts is the first known artist to have used mokume-gane in watchmaking and to have engraved it, starting in the 90s. Following him, many other brands have started using composite materials in their watches, such as damast steel, layered carbon fiber, etc.

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Mokume-gane is a metalwork technique developped by Denbei Shoami, a master artisan from 17th century Japan. The technique, literally translating to "wood-grain metal", consists of layering multiple different metals, which are then etched to accentuate or change the color of the metals, as well as their texture.


For more information on traditional mokume gane and to see pieces attributed to Denbei Shoami check out NPO Japan Mokume Gane Research Institute

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The hand-engraved dial of this unique piece is composed of 19 layers, alternating between silver and white gold, compressed into a 1mm thick plate. In order to engrave the dragon, material was progressively removed from the dial, exposing the different layers of the mokume-gane and revealing the wonderful patterns of the wood-grain. The dragon was then carefully engraved, one scale at a time.

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Like much of Kees Engelbarts' earlier work, this watch presents evident asian inspiration, both in material choice and motifs. The front engraving depicts a japanese dragon. 

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These dragons are strongly connected to the element of  water, often living in rivers, lakes or seas, and protecting their respective body of water. While occidental dragons are associated with brute force and greed, japanese dragons are highly respected creatures and symbolize wisdom and peace.

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The engraving on the back of the watch despicts asian-style clouds, as well as the dragon's claws holding a pearl, representing prosperity, power and immortality. The movement was silver-plated and then blackened to darken the engraving.

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The dauphine hands are also made of mokume-gane, with the different layers being clearly visible thanks to the oxidizing.

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The case, also made by Mr. Engelbarts, is made of 925 argentium silver, a silver alloy with germanium, known for being tarnish-resistant, and has a matte finish.

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Overall, this watch perfectly embodies Kees Engelbarts' craftsmanship and style, being discrete on the wrist, but having plenty of detail when inspected more closely. 

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Each step is delicate and extremely time-consuming. For additional and price info please contact him at: mail@kees.ch or visit www.kees.ch

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Technical specifications:

Movement 
     
Manual-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 42 h, 18.000 variations / hours
17 jewels
18'000 BPH
Pusher at 3 o'clock position for time-setting
Case             
Argentium Silver 925 matte finish
39.5 mm x 19mm
Sapphire crystal both sides with double anti-reflection treatment
Dial
Engraved Mokume Gane (silver/white-gold) technique developped by Denbei Shoami
Strap            
Exterior black alligator leather
Interior black shark leather
Solid  Silver 925 Pin buckle
Weight:  Total 197 grams

Limitation
Edition:Unique Piece  

Please contact me mail@kees.ch for more information and availability.

🔴 Price : incl. VAT 55'000 CHF 💰

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Contact Info
Email: mail@kees.ch
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www.instagram.com/keesengelbarts
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www.facebook.com - KeesEngelbarts
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www.Kees.ch