Tuesday, June 14, 2022

Angelus – Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon Edition

 

ANGELUS FLYING TOURBILLON Red Gold & Carbon Gold Bridges Limited Edition 2022

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Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon
Gold bridges

In addition to its technicality, the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon presents precious materials and finishes. A sports watch with a flying tourbillon, this limited edition of 18 pieces is housed within a sharp new 42.5 mm diameter case in carbon composite and red gold. 

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The A-250 calibre gives it a three-dimensional skeletonised look with its array of bridges in relief. Their graphic arrangement is much like the horological performance of this Angelus tourbillon: simply exceptional.

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The Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon leads a new generation of Angelus cases. Its sleek and dynamic lines are befitting of the extreme technicality of this supremely graphic timepiece. 

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The red gold crown with wide notches has a rubber insert for improved grip and is protected by an asymmetrical guard projecting from the lugs. The crenellated bezel presents Angelus’ signature slight angular grooves. 

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Meanwhile, the A-250 skeletonised flying tourbillon calibre is surrounded by an ultra-rigid and ultralight carbon composite container. It is held within an 18K 5N red gold case middle, which reveals another kind of skeletonisation and serves as an openworked vehicle for an openworked movement. 

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o complete the overall effect, the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbilloncomes with a black ballistic-style rubber strap, featuring an interchangeable system and a red gold and titanium folding clasp.

Contrast

The bridges of the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon form its face. In the absence of a dial, these components play an expressive role in any skeleton movement. 

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And since the main plate of the A-250 calibre is made from woven carbon composite, it is black, accentuating the contrasting 18K red gold bridges. Their volume is also emphasised by their placement above the carbon, arranged in pivotal positions on a higher level.

Relief

The bridges are hollowed out, as are the arms of the wheels. The aim of this skeletonisation is to reduce the physical weight of the piece and to lighten the aesthetic impression. After being pared down, these miniature sculptures are chamfered by hand along all their edges. 

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Their flat surface, measuring less than half a millimetre across, then undergoes careful horizontal satin-brushing to give a matte finish. To put the final flourish on these bridges, Angelus has attached them to the main plate using Angelus screws with a proprietary head.

Depth

While the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon has no dial, it does have a flange. This component, which marks the transition between bezel and watch interior, is finished with a matte black PVD treatment. 

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It is then graduated with sets of five increments, separated by three-dimensional white gold hour-markers filled with a luminescent substance. Since this flange is placed level with the bezel, it creates a sunken effect that accentuates the feeling of depth in the A-250 calibre.

Suspension

The star of this Angelus’ multilevel display is the tourbillon. It is situated at 6 o’clock, next to a bridge that does not hold it in place and instead supports the first wheel in the gear train. The tourbillon is only fixed in place from below, making it a flying tourbillon. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOIt is attached directly to the carbon main plate, which is pierced in this spot to give a transparent effect, accentuating the sense of levitation and highlighting the tourbillon’s rotation. 

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Meanwhile, the balance oscillating within it also has a pared-down construction. Instead of being a ring like most balances, it is a cut, non-circular flywheel. Lighter and more efficient in terms of drag, it further enhances the innate timekeeping performance of an Angelus tourbillon.

Spectacular display

The workings are housed within a vast sapphire crystal glass box. 

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This transparent component is angled – almost vertically where it touches the bezel – to provide a large, flat surface for the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon’s spectacular display: ethereal, technical, graphic, and very Angelus.

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Technical Specifications

FLYING TOURBILLON  Collection

 Model:  Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon Edition

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  Reference     0TCDB.B01A.K009B  

Movement
Calibre: Angelus A-250, skeletonised, hand-wound mechanical, one-minute flying tourbillon

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Jewels     18
Diameter     32.60 mm
Thickness     5.78 mm
Power reserve     90 hours
Frequency    3 Hz / 21,600 vph
Finishes    main plate: carbon fibre
    bridges: 18K red gold (5N), satin-finished
    wheels: circular-grained
    screws: Angelus design
    tourbillon carriage: chamfered and hand-polished
Functions    hours and minutes
Dial    
Flange     black PVD treatment
    18K white gold hour-markers with Super-LumiNova
Hands    rhodium-plated, with Super-LumiNova
Case
Material    18K red gold (5N) and carbon composite
Diameter    42.50 mm
Thickness    11.70 mm
Crystal     sapphire box, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Back     sapphire, anti-reflecting coating
Water resistance     30 metres/3 ATM

Strapwith interchangeable system    
Material     black “ballistic” rubber
Buckle    folding clasp, 18K red gold (5N) and titanium

Limited edition    18 pieces

Retail price Switzerland    CHF 68,900 taxincluded (subject to change)

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Press Release - 2022
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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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www.facebook.com - Angelus Watches 
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www.Angelus-Watches.com

Monday, June 13, 2022

ARNOLD & SON – ULTRATHIN TOURBILLON Edition

ARNOLD & SONULTRATHIN TOURBILLON Platinum/Gold ‘Cosmic powder’ Dial Limited Edition - 2022

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  Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold & Ultrathin Tourbillon Platinum
Slim and textured

The ultrathin tourbillon by Arnold & Son is offering two new designs. They feature a new type of dial with tinted gold and aluminium sparkles to match their precious cases, which have also been redesigned. 

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In 5N red gold or 950 platinum, the cases are just 8.3 mm thick beneath their domed sapphire crystals. 

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The offset display and the tourbillon aperture echo the way in which information was arranged on John Arnold’s marine chronometers. 

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After reworking the structure and appearance of the rotating regulating organ, the power reserve now lasts at least 100 hours – an outstanding and noteworthy performance for an ultrathin tourbillon timepiece.

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To give the Ultrathin Tourbillon a new unique and refined design, Arnold & Son has focused on materials and techniques that highlight the precious appearance of this finely honed tourbillon. 

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The 41.5 mm cases in 5N red gold or 950 platinum have been redesigned, making them even slimmer and more refined. 

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The bezels have been reduced to a fine metal band, the sapphire crystals are domed, and the transparent case backs have been screwed down.

Beneath the stars

Arnold & Son has used a new manufacturing technique known as ‘Cosmic Grené’ on the dials. This name makes direct reference to stargazing, as stars are essential guides for navigating at sea along with marine chronometers (of which John Arnold was one of the largest and most reputable suppliers).

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Gold powder mixed with aluminium sparkles has been placed on the dial plate to create a lightly sandblasted surface. This is then coloured: blue for the Ultrathin Tourbillon in red gold, and green for the platinum version. 

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Due to the complex manufacturing methods involved, these dials are subtle and finely textured, with a discreet lustre.

Latest-generation carriage

At the heart of the Ultrathin Tourbillon lies the A&S8300 calibre, whose architecture and finesse characterise this collection. At just 2.97 mm thick, this tourbillon with extremely refined finishes is one of the slimmest ever designed.
 
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The highest point of the A&S8300 calibre is located on the top of the tourbillon carriage, which has also been redesigned and undergone significant changes in relation to its predecessors. It features a variable-inertia balance with inertia blocks to ensure more stable calibration over time. 

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The redesigned tourbillon carriage echoes the leading role John Arnold played in marine exploration during the 18th century. Its triangular shape evokes a sextant, while its double-arrow counterpoise represents an anchor. 

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The point in the middle serves as a seconds marker, as the carriage completes a full rotation in one minute.

Golden time

The back of the Ultrathin Tourbillon reveals a new rear tourbillon bridge in 3N yellow gold that matches the gear train and stands out from the appearance of the rest of the calibre.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOModifications to the tourbillon carriage and regulating organ have increased the power reserve of the A&S8300 calibre, which now lasts at least 100 hours. 

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This long power reserve meets the performance standards of Arnold & Son calibres.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  ULTRATHIN TOURBILLON

Model:  ULTRATHIN TOURBILLON Edition
  • Red gold: 1UTBR.U01A.C209A 
  • Platinum: 1UTBR.XF01A.C208A
Movement 
Calibre  A&S8300, 1 minute flying tourbillon, manual winding 
Jewels  29 
Diameter
  32.00 mm Thickness  2.97 mm 
Power reserve  100 hours 
Frequency 3 Hz / 21,600 vph 

Finishes main plate: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre 
bridges: polished and chamfered by hand 
wheels: circular satin-finished 
screws: blued and chamfered, mirror-polished heads  
tourbillon carriage: ‘Arnold & Son’ signature rear tourbillon bridge: 18-carat (3N) yellow gold, sunray motif
Functions hours, minutes
Dial 
  • ‘Cosmic grené’: 
  • ‘Cosmic blue’:
Gold powder mixed with coloured aluminium sparkles  
flange: coloured and circular satin-finished
Hour dial 
base: white mother-of-pearl, domed 
ring: rhodium-plated or with 4N gold plating
Case 
Material  18-carat (5N) red gold or Pt950 platinum 
Diameter  41.50 mm 
Thickness  8.30 mm (with crystal) 
Crystal  domed sapphire, with an anti-reflective coating on both sides 
Case back  sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating 
Water-resistance 30 metres / 100 feet
Strap 
Material blue alligator leather hand-stitched with 18-carat (5N) red-gold thread or  green alligator leather, hand-stitched with pt950 platinum thread 
Folding clasp with top cover in 18-carat (5N) red gold or Pt950 platinum

 
Limited editions 28 timepieces released of each model 


Swiss retail prices red gold: CHF 73,300 including taxes (subject to change) platinum: CHF 85,100 including taxes (subject to change)

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Press releases - 2022
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Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@arnoldandson.com
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www.facebook.com - Arnold and Son 1764
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www.Arnold&Son.com