Tuesday, May 17, 2022

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin Anniversary

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 Steel 39 mm 50th Anniversary - 2022

 AUDEMARS PIGUET UNVEILS THE NEW ROYAL OAK RD#3 TO CELEBRATE THE ICONIC 50TH ANNIVERSARY

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet proudly unveils its latest research and development breakthrough (RD#3) with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin. This 39 mm stainless steel anniversary model, measuring 8.1 mm in thickness, represents the first “Jumbo” in history to be equipped with a selfwinding flying tourbillon. It is powered by the Manufacture’s new selfwinding ultra-thin flying tourbillon movement, Calibre 2968, measuring just 3.4 mm thick and adorned with a novel combination of traditional and contemporary hand-crafted decorations. 

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Audemars Piguet’s watchmakers have met several technical challenges to bring this timepiece to life, while devoting particular attention to aesthetic details. Pushing the boundaries of feasibility, this model will be complemented in September by a second 37 mm version for the slimmer wrists, enriched with a dial of a different hue.

A NEW ULTRA-THIN FLYING TOURBILLON MOVEMENT

At the heart of this new innovation is Calibre 2968, an ultra-thin selfwinding flying tourbillon movement that was developed over a five-year period. Audemars Piguet’s engineers and watchmakers took on numerous challenges in order to accommodate this complication – previously reserved for 41 mm diameters – into the smaller volume of a “Jumbo:” a first for the Manufacture and one of the rare examples in the watch industry as a whole. Given the extra-thin nature of the form language, this selfwinding flying tourbillon had to be creatively rethought to reduce the thickness required to house this complication by repositioning certain components. The tourbillon cage, which is crafted in titanium, is notably equipped for the first time with a peripheral drive. The combination of these two elements not only makes the distribution of energy to the tourbillon more fluid, but also served to lighten and refine this regulating organ.

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In order to provide optimum visibility of the tourbillon and the movement, Audemars Piguet engineers completely redesigned the architecture of the mechanism. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin features a new escapement to accentuate the aesthetic details while revealing part of the movement’s workings. The geometry and positioning of the balance wheel arms have notably been revised in such a way as to make the watch’s beating heart even more perceptible. The technical design of the movement results in the flying tourbillon being placed at the dial level, for a greater visual experience.

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The hand decoration of the movement components, visible through the sapphire caseback, combines the dynamism and classicism of V-angles with the modernity of traits tirés – a finish that appears on the mainplate and bridges and replaces the traditional Côtes de Genève. The openworked, rhodium-toned bridges offer an unobstructed view, contrasting with the pink-gold-toned colour of certain mechanism elements. 

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The Royal Oak continues to evolve and cut through the timeline 50 years after its creation and will do so for the next 50 years and beyond. It remains a platform for both technical and aesthetic development, as demonstrated by the new ultra-thin flying tourbillon making its debut on both the classic 39 mm and the celebrated 37 mm Royal Oak models. The movement architecture was designed to offer a unique view of the smaller cage while showcasing an engaging contrast of hand-finishing techniques throughout.
Michael Friedman Head of Complications

A REFINED AND SLENDER DESIGN

The new RD#3 remains true to the aesthetic codes of the iconic “Jumbo” models. The stainless steel case and bracelet feature the collection’s signature satin-brushed and polished hand finishes, while the timepiece is graced with a Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 Petite Tapisserie dial which pays tribute to the original model. The colour is obtained using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) process that guarantees a uniform and lasting tone across all the dials.

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Just as on the 1972 model, this new “Jumbo” reference is distinguished by bathtub-shaped hour-markers and hands filled with luminescent material to ensure optimal readability in the dark. The Audemars Piguet signature, like the minute track, is printed in white on the Tapisserie motif. The titanium flying tourbillon cage rotating at 6 o’clock stands out against the blue Tapisserie backdrop to create an airy effect.

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Contrary to the original model, the contemporary version is endowed with a sapphire caseback, which reveals the new ultra-thin movement and the dedicated oscillating weight.

A DEDICATED 50-YEARS” OSCILLATING WEIGHT

The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin features a central oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings and equipped with two reversers2 that ensure bidirectional winding. The timepiece is fitted with the dedicated anniversary openworked oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold, which bears the “50-years” logo and the Audemars Piguet signature engraved on its surface. 
 
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Matching the tones of the stainless steel case and bracelet, it is also adorned with the collection’s trademark polished and satin-brushed finishes.

A TRADITION OF TECHNICAL PROWESS

In 1986, Audemars Piguet introduced the world’s first selfwinding tourbillon wristwatch. Imagined by Jacqueline Dimier, the design placed the tourbillon escapement on the dial side for the very first time. Calibre 2870 is housed in an ultra-thin case measuring a mere 5.3 mm thick. Its titanium tourbillon cage remains one of the smallest in the world today with a diameter of 7.2 mm, as well as one of the lightest with a weight of only 0.123 grams. This model became known as the Tourbillon Selfwinding Ra (in reference to the Egyptian sun god) because Jacqueline Dimier’s design gave the tiny regulator the appearance of a sun, with its rays spreading across the dial. This complicated wristwatch, of which 401 were produced until 1992, opened up a new avenue for Haute Horlogerie, which began to see a comeback of prestigious mechanisms including tourbillon watches.

Thirty years after Jacqueline Dimier’s model, the Manufacture, known for its ability to innovate, launched a series of Research and Development models. In 2015, Audemars Piguet revealed its first RD#1 Royal Oak Concept Minute Repeater Supersonnerie prototype at SIHH, after eight years of research in partnership with EPFL, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne and a panel of experts composed of watchmakers, engineers, musicians and sound specialists. This watch marked a significant step forward in terms of acoustic performance, sound amplification and sonic beauty, with the launch of the Supersonnerie mechanism.3 This system, for which three patents were filed, combines a novel chiming mechanism with an innovative case construction. The commercial Royal Oak Concept Minute Repeater Supersonnerie version, which followed one year later, won the “Mechanical Exception Watch Prize” at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
 
In 2019, Audemars Piguet unveiled a new innovation with its 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, whose prototype was presented a year earlier at SIHH under the name RD#2. This 6.3 mm-thick calendar watch houses a movement that is only 2.89 mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest automatic calendar wristwatch of its time. To achieve this feat, the calendar functions usually mounted on three levels were brought together on a single plane. The experts at the Manufacture also developed two patented innovations relating to the integration of the end-of-month cam with the date wheel and the association of the month cam with the month wheel. Marking a turning point in the history of complication watches, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin earned Audemars Piguet the “Aiguille d’Or” award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in November 2019.

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This year, the Manufacture’s latest technical advance, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin, follows in the footsteps of previous innovations. This RD#3 timepiece, powered by the new Calibre 2968, combines technical innovation and aesthetic refinement to pay a fine tribute to the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.
 
 
Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.” 
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: ROYAL OAK Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin / 39 mm

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Reference:  26670ST.OO.1240ST.01

Movement
Selfwinding Manufacture Calibre 2968
 
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Total diameter 29.6 mm (13 lignes)
Total thickness 3.40 mm
Number of jewels 33
Number of parts 226
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 50 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (= 21,600 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Hours, minutes and Flying tourbillon
Case
Stainless steel case  
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern.
White gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

 New Product Overview 2022

Price: Price on Request  💰
 
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Press Release - 2022
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Monday, May 16, 2022

ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR Knights of the Round Table MT Edition

   

ROGER DUBUISEXCALIBUR Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon Pink Gold 45mm Edition 2022

ENTER THE HYPER WORLD OF ROGER DUBUIS
UNLEASHED CREATIVITY MEETS RARE TECHNICAL PROWESS

Bending boundaries, breaking rules, reinventing the game. Underscored by hyper technical craft and hyper expressive design. A place where bigger is better and going bolder is mandatory: welcome to Roger Dubuis. 

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Showcasing some of the most excessive creations yet, the future of fine watchmaking has arrived with a ground-breaking Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon timepiece, and a remarkable evolution of the Excalibur Monobalancier. Determined to mark the physical return of Watches & Wonders with outstanding masterpieces, Roger Dubuis continues to elevate its art and technical mastery to new heights, always striving for excellence, and constantly challenging itself to go further.

TWELVE KNIGHTS FIGHT GRAVITY WITH THE MIGHTY MONOTOURBILLON

The story of the Knights of the Round Table collection cannot be told to just anyone. One of Roger Dubuis’ most iconic, bold and breathtaking collections, each edition re-interprets the legend through the lens of Hyper Horology. Only the craziest minds dare to combine artistic mastery, horological craftsmanship and contemporary design in this way.  

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Now for the first time, the valiant knights of King Arthur’s legend are ready to take on the invisible force of gravity with a secret device: one of Roger Dubuis’ pride and joy , the Monotourbillon itself. Ensuring the 8th edition was worthy of representing the lucky number of the late, great Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, the move not only upends the rules of the game, it reshapes the future of Hyper Horology.

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The equalising round table is key to the world of King Arthur’s legend. Though this essential set-up is non-negotiable, creating a design born from this concentric requirement provided a challenge the incredible watchmakers were not afraid to take on. Displaying true technical prowess, the Monotourbillon emerges from the centre of the timepiece in a powerful demonstration of advanced mechanics.

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Becoming the shield against the gravitational force endangering the heroes and precision alike, the knights stand proudly around this iconic feat of engineering knowing they will tackle their common invisible enemy together. Just as the twelve knights take their duty to protect the realm seriously, the Maison’s quest for peak performance is realised by expanding the diameter of the balance wheel to increase stability and ensure the movement is less sensitive to gravity’s effects. 

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An accomplishment Roger Dubuis is proud to showcase in one timepiece: the pinnacle of its artistic collection combined with one of its signature complications.

HYPER EXPRESSIVE CRAFT

Defending horological mastery from the threat of gravity is no easy task for the hour-marked heroes cast in Pink Gold 750/1000 and crafted individually through micro-sculpture. Small enough to fit in a timepiece but mighty enough to represent the commitment, passion and boldness Roger Dubuis is known for, each knight is just 6mm tall, created with his own personality and equipped with armour. Such an exceptional timepiece had to feature equally exceptional hands, fully integrated into the circular design.

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That’s why two gold markers were chosen to indicate the position of the minute and hour with perfectly centred rotating discs. What’s more, translucent purple blocks carved from Murano glass appear to levitate around the Monotourbillon while the double surfaced flange is carved from a single block of Murano glass too. To realise this effect, playing with no less than eight layers of décor around the dial was needed; a true marvel considering the limited surface area. In keeping with the design, and to respect the position of the knight at 3 o’clock, the setting system is decentred to a position at 2 o’clock. Push down on this function and a small red flag indicates that the timepiece has moved from winding to setting mode.

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Available in a 45mm Pink Gold 750/1000 case sealed by a notched bezel, the timepiece is completed with an embossed black calf-leather strap.

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Just as being invited to the round table was an extreme honour, such high standards of excellence are rewarded with the Poinçon de Genève; one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in watchmaking today.

VISIT THE HYPED UP WORLD OF ROGER DUBUIS

Hyper skilled, hyper immersive, hyper exclusive. Roger Dubuis brings its intensely hyper world to Watches & Wonders 2022 with a spectacular showcase centred on its legendary collection, the Knights of the Round Table. Surrounded by hundreds of screens with a mirrored ceiling towering over visitors at 8 meters tall, the collection’s story is told visually and physically in unexpected, heart-pumping displays that must be seen to be believed. This is the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology. Are you tempted yet?

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: EXALIBUR

Model: Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon Pink Gold


Exclusive Boutique Edition of 8 pieces

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Ref.   RDDBEX1025
 

DESCRIPTION

The Excalibur Knights of the Round Table is a quest involving among the highest degree of know-how in all that a watch can offer: design, technique and exclusivity.
The very recognizable face of the watch is made of twelve micro-sculptures - the Knights - placed around a dial - the Table. 
The Knights are handcrafted and represent the 12 characters involved in the quest.
The table is made of gems or precious materials or materials requiring specific techniques, and symbolizes the unity and equality of the Knights.
Underneath the face of the watch is an automatic calibre, manufactured in the Roger Dubuis workshops and certified by the Poinçon de Genève, one of the most demanding certifications in Haute Horlogerie.

SPECIFIC HIGHLIGHTS

  • The Knights of the Round Table levels up by offering a central monotourbillon calibre.
  • The monotourbillon emerges from the center table.
  • It is a new calibre specifically developped for this timepiece and certified by the Poinçon de Genève
  • In addition to that, the centre table is now made of crystal sapphire with color blocks in purple hues. 
  • The hands are also made of rotating crystal sapphire discs.
Movement
Manual-winding mechanical movement
Calibre RD 115  Central Monotourbillon
Certification: Poinçon de Genève, decoration "Poinçon de Genève" finishings
Diameter: 16
Thickness: 12.20mm
ENERGY: Manual-winding
COMPLICATION: Flying Monotourbillon
CALIBER: Central flying monotourbillon with variable inertia balance wheel
FINISHING: Shot-blasted, trued-up and circular grained plate and bridges with NAC coating
Decorations: Rhodium-plated, Côtes de Genève” decoration
Components: 277
Vibrations per hour: 21.600 - 3Hz frequency
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions
Hours/minutes.
Case 
Pink gold* case with sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Pink gold* open case back with sapphire crystal and metallization
• Pink gold* bezel with sapphire crystal ring
• Pink gold* crown with Murano glass ring
Pink gold 750/1000
Diameter: 45mm  Thickness: 14.6mm
Thickness: 13.70mm
18K pink gold crown,
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment,
Damascus Titaniumengraved case back
Water Resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)
Dial
3D dial with crust is made of color Murano glass
Sapphire crystal centre table with color blocks made of Murano glass.
  • 12 microsculpted knights in pink gold, reprensenting the
  • 12 knights involved in the Quest. 
  • Double surface flange in Murano glass with polished pink gold hour markers.
  • Rotating sapphire crystal discs with golden blocks as hour and minute hands.
Main material: Pink Gold
Strap 
3D calf leather strap, interchangeable with Quick Release System - QRS
Color : Black
Interchangeable strap : true
ClaspPink gold cover 750/1000 with titanium blades, triple folding, interchangeable with Quick Release System - QRS
Type : Titanium

Boutique exclusive model Limited Edition - Only of 8 pieces

Price *  
EUR  591,325  Incl. VAT Incl. 

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Press release - 2022
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For more information, please contact:
Pauline SIZORN
Press Manager
Tel: +41(0)22 783 28 44
Email: pauline.sizorn@rogerdubuis.com
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