Saturday, May 14, 2022

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Edition


VACHERON CONSTANTIN Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Edition - Unique Piece
 
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  • A single-piece watch striking perfect balance between horological excellence and stylistic virtuosity.
  • A new manual-winding tourbillon-regulated Manufacture Calibre 2757 which drives two of the most complex horological complications: a minute repeater equipped with a centripetal flying strike regulator and a split-seconds monopusher chronograph.
  • Perfect legibility of the three-counter dial with off-centre hours and minutes, 30-minute chronograph counter, small seconds and central split-seconds chronograph hands.

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Beating to the rhythm of the new manual-winding in-house Calibre 2757, this unique Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph is in keeping with the grand tradition of Vacheron Constantin's complicated watches. True to its imaginative approach to High Watchmaking, the Manufacture has combined a minute repeater and a split-seconds monopusher chronograph within a single tourbillon-regulated timepiece. This rare and complex combination has thus far been seen mainly in the world of pocket watches, essentially made to order as single-piece editions. Above and beyond its technical complexity, this model has been the object of very special attention in terms of aesthetics and dial legibility.

Combining a minute repeater and a split-seconds chronograph driven by a tourbillon movement within the same complication watch is a challenge taken up by the Maison’s master watchmakers in this Les Cabinotiers single-piece edition.

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The construction of this calibre, which consists of integrating an additional split-seconds chronograph mechanism into a basic minute repeater movement, represents a technical feat. The combination of these functions with a tourbillon has rarely been seen in the world of pocket watches, is almost non-existent in the world of wristwatches, and represents a first for Vacheron Constantin in a wristwatch. This timepiece is also distinguished by a concern for the purity of the dial and the legibility of its chronograph functions. The tourbillon is visible only through the case back, while the off-centre display of the time and chronograph indications highlights the two central chronograph hands. The presence of a minute repeater is revealed by the slide-piece positioned on the left-hand side of the watch. This aesthetic sensibility, expressed through meticulous attention to detail and decoration, composes a veritable anatomy of beauty – the 2022 theme highlighted by the Maison.

Two centuries of expertise

As early as 1819, Vacheron Constantin produced a pocket watch with independent deadbeat seconds and quarter repeater, at the time one of the first of its kind, which is now kept in the private collection of the Maison. 

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The deadbeat seconds mechanism, which allows the central second hand to advance in one-second jumps, played an important role in the measurement of short times. By making this mechanism independent by means of an additional gear train, watchmakers developed what is considered the ancestor of the chronograph towards the end of the 18th century. With such a device, it is now possible to stop the seconds hand without affecting the time indications. The split-seconds chronograph – with its two coaxial hands of which the second can be stopped to calculate an intermediate (split) time before being restarted to catch up with the first – was first introduced with a single-hand system in 1831, followed by the two-hand configuration in 1838

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Vacheron Constantin quickly integrated these developments into the pocket chronographs of the time, as confirmed by an 1889 split-seconds timepiece dispatched to Buenos Aires for a horse racing enthusiast.

New Calibre 2757 in-house manual-winding movement

Vacheron Constantin's watchmakers have developed the 698-component manual-winding Calibre 2757. Such a large number of parts denotes a rare degree of horological complexity. 

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Even in the world of grand complications, calibres are often of simpler design and made with far fewer components. Given this intensely technical nature, Vacheron Constantin's watchmakers have nonetheless risen to the challenge of elegance by successfully arranging the complications of this timepiece within a remarkably slender movement measuring barely 10.4 mm thick and 33.3 mm in diameter.

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Calibre 2757, operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and endowed with an approximately 60-hour power reserve, enables short time measurement with 1/5th of a second precision appearing on the graduated minute-track. The unusual configuration of the dark grey dial has been designed to ensure optimum visibility of the split-seconds chronograph. 

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The hours and minutes are displayed on an offset subdial, leaving room for the 30-minute chronograph counter prominently placed at 2 o'clock. The layout is complemented by small seconds at 6 o'clock, indicating that the watch is in operation, thereby leaving plenty of space for the two central chronograph hands.

A high-performance chronograph

The very construction of the movement, particularly in terms of its chronographic functions, is based on the imperative of performance. In the watchmaking world, where many great inventions belong to the past, innovation often consists in optimising the operation of a calibre. This approach begins with the development of the movement and continues with the use of new materials. 

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This same approach is reflected in Calibre 2757, whose additional split-seconds chronograph plate has been specially designed to ensure efficiency thanks to the in-depth arrangement of its components. This optimisation of volumes, despite the thinness of the calibre, is also accompanied by new materials. Some of the wheels in the going train have been made of titanium or electroformed in nickel-phosphorus with a toothing profile specific to Vacheron Constantin, the goal being to ensure better gear penetration so as to avoid any jerking of the seconds hand. Silicon, an ultra-light material that requires no lubrication, is also used for one of the split-seconds levers and its insulator. These savings in component weight and friction thus reduce the loss of energy amplitude from the barrel, thereby maintaining a comfortable power reserve of up to 50 hours with the chronograph activated.

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For short-time measurements, a function demanding extreme regularity in terms of precision, Vacheron Constantin watchmakers have opted for a construction with two column wheels: the first devoted to the chronograph and the other to the split-seconds mechanism. This chronograph is thus controlled by a single pusher at 2 o'clock for the basic functions (start/stop/reset) and by the one at 4 o'clock for the split-seconds (stop/reset). Pressing the latter stops the seconds hand on an intermediate time while the first hand continues running. Pressing it again enables the split-seconds hand to join the first seconds hand in counting off time. Two scales further enhance the technical nature of this timepiece. The tachymeter scale, screen-printed in white on a 1,000-metre base, enables the average speed in km/h to be calculated over the first minute of timekeeping; the telemeter scale in red is used to calculate distances of up to 20 km according to the speed of sound (340 metres/second).

A musical watch

The chronograph functions are complemented by a minute repeater, activated by the lever on the left-hand side of the case. An essential complication for musical watches, the minute repeater has been part of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking vocabulary for more than two centuries, sounding the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. The first known mention of a Vacheron Constantin chiming watch in the production records dates back to 1806, with a gold quarter-repeater pocket watch. Since that date, chiming and repeater watches have been part of the Maison’s heritage that has continued to grow over the decades.

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Calibre 2757 is the direct heir to this tradition, benefiting from the technical developments perfected within the Manufacture. These include an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. In a minute repeater watch, this mechanism regulates the duration of the musical sequence so that the notes can be heard distinctly and harmoniously. This system is distinguished by its two weights whose very special shape has been optimised to act as a brake by means of centripetal force acting on the governor’s rotating shaft, thereby evening out the energy released by the barrel and regulated by the tourbillon. 

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This original device is also perfectly silent. Visible exclusively through the caseback, the tourbillon is distinguished by a carriage whose shape is inspired by the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem. Held by a delicately hand-chamfered bridge, this regulator carriage performs one complete rotation per minute.

Exceptional finishing

Presented in a 45 mm-diameter 750/1000 5N pink gold case with an exhibition back and on an alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp, this watch represents a technical feat as well as epitomising extraordinary mastery in the field of watchmaking finishing. A signature feature of Vacheron Constantin watches is that each component is finely decorated with hand-made finishes before being assembled, even when destined to remain hidden. 

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These surfaces that are alternately bevelled, polished, satin-finished, frosted, circular-grained or engraved and beadblasted create a play of light that brings out all the magic of Vacheron Constantin's calibres and contributes to the brand’s intrinsic anatomy of beauty. The assembly, setting into operation and casing-up of this Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater split-seconds monopusher chronograph movement thus represents only one third of the time devoted to the watch, as opposed to two thirds devoted to the calibre finishing. 

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The contrast between the bridges and maintaining plate with Vacheron Constantin's signature black coating and the "metallic" moving parts already acts as a revelation of this kinetic art, which takes shape thanks to the meticulous attention lavished on details. On the dial side, the skeletonised bridges, with their hand-chamfered and straight-grained flanks feature a circular satin finish. The wheels, with their chamfered arms, are burnished and polished, a complex operation that requires special tools for the titanium wheels.

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On the caseback side of the movement, the watchmaker in charge of the timepiece – who carries out all the assembly and finishing operations right the way through to timing and casing-up in the manner of 18th century cabinotiers – has created an original decoration, in keeping with this remarkable timepiece. The blackened bridges featured a hollowed-out surface that has been sandblasted to a very fine grain by hand, topped by a mirror-polished sink. This magnificent execution, which plays on the reflections of light between the matt and the shiny, brings out the "musical" components of the movement. 

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The strike governor is notably engraved with the initials J.M.C. in tribute to Jean-Marc Vacheron and features a bar whose delicate rounding off involves 12 hours of meticulous hand craftsmanship. The tourbillon bridge is engraved with Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem. This Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater tourbillon split-seconds monopusher chronograph in 18K 5N pink gold measuring 45 mm in diameter and fitted with a black alligator leather strap achieves the perfect symbiosis between Vacheron Constantin's imaginative classicism, its perfect mastery of horological complications and its virtuosity in presenting them.

The Anatomy of Beauty®

The single-piece watch Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph features a concern for impeccable finishing and meticulous decoration of all watch components, even those that remain invisible, vividly illustrating Vacheron Constantin's theme for 2022:"The Anatomy of Beauty®". This quest for excellence is expressed through the designers' aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.

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Sum-up

With this Les Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater tourbillon split-seconds monopusher chronograph single-piece edition, Vacheron Constantin has achieved the perfect blend of technical horology and aesthetic sophistication. This timepiece is distinguished by the rare combination of a minute repeater and a split-seconds chronograph within a tourbillon-regulated calibre. 

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Despite this complexity, which is reflected in the creation of the new manual-winding Calibre 2757 with nearly 700 components, the designers at the Manufacture have created a thin movement measuring just 10.4 mm thick. This movement meets the most stringent performance criteria in terms of performance and reliability, which required a new architecture for the additional chronograph plate and the use of materials such as silicon that are lighter and have a lower coefficient of friction. The result is a high level of chronograph precision achieved throughout the 50-hour power reserve. 

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The same attention has been lavished on the minute repeater mechanism, notably by incorporating a centripetal flying strike governor ensuring the musicality of the sound sequences. The care devoted to the finishing touches reflects the same philosophy, with hand-crafted High Watchmaking Finishes and magnificent contrasting effects between the colours of the components and their surface finishes. This Les Cabinotiers watch – of which the assembly and finishing are entrusted to a single watchmaker and that is distinguished by its dial with offset counters ensuring perfect legibility – perpetuates the grand Geneva watchmaking tradition upheld by Vacheron Constantin. The watch is presented with a 45 mm diameter pink gold 18K 5N case fitted with an alligator leather strap.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Les Cabinotiers

Model: Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

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 Reference 9750C/000R-002C  - Unique Piece

Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
  -  Calibre 2757

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33.30 mm diameter, 10.40 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
698 components
59 jewels
Poinçon de Genève
Indications 

  • Off-centred/Offset hours and minutes
  • Chronograph
  • Split-seconds chronograph
  • Small seconds
  • 30-minute counter
  • Minute repeater
  • Tourbillon
Case 
18K 5N pink gold
45 mm diameter, 16.4 mm thick
Dial 
Dark grey dial
Hours, minutes and seconds hands: 18K 5N pink gold, polished
Chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands: gold-toned aluminium, matt
Strap 
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box Les Cabinotiers box

  • Single-piece edition
  • “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

 

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Press Release - 2022
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Friday, May 13, 2022

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – LAUREATO Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition

 


GIRARD-PERREGAUXLAUREATO Absolute Aston Martin F1 Titanium & Сarbon44 Limited Edition - 2022

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Last year, Girard-Perregaux was announced as the Official Watch Partner of the ultra-luxury British performance car manufacturer, Aston Martin and of the Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One™ Team (AMF1). Since the organisations began working together, they have collaborated on two watches: the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin Edition and the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition. 

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Now, Girard-Perregaux has, for the first time, worked with the AMF1 Team, creating a new model, the Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition, featuring two industry firsts. This ground-breaking watch unites two worlds, namely, micro-mechanics and the extreme performance of Formula OneTM.

Pushing the performance envelope

In the competitive world of F1, a mere fraction of a second can mean the difference between success or failure. Besides aerodynamics and engine power, weight is of huge importance, hence teams continuously research new innovative materials that promise to provide precious weight savings. In this instance, the AMF1 Team has brought its incredible understanding of lightweight, materials to the world of Haute Horlogerie.

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The new Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition features a cutting-edge 44mm case. Its composition blends titanium powder and carbon elements taken from two F1 race cars used during the 2021 season, representing a first in the watch industry. 

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Using a high-tech manufacturing process, the individual components are brought together and mixed with a tinted resin. The resultant material proffers superior ductility to that of steel. Each watch will have its own visual identity and will look uniquely different from any other timepiece on the market.

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Patrick Pruniaux, Girard-Perregaux’s Chief Executive Officer, remarked:

From the outset, working with Aston Martin has been a joy. It has not just been a case of putting our name on a Formula One™ car. On the contrary, we have collaborated on various projects, resulting in the production of two very different watches. Working together has led to some innovative and interesting ideas, culminating in the creation of new exciting products. It has also led to some wonderful friendships forming between both companies’ personnel. With our previous collaborative models, the emphasis was on style and elegance. However, with this latest watch we sought to work closely with the F1 side of the brand, focusing more on the idea of performance.”


Mike Krack, Team Principal of Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One™ Team, added:

As a team, we have the determination to succeed – and that ambition requires us to analyse every element of our performance package. That includes managing the materials we use to build our cars, measuring their weight, their strength, all in a bid to find that critical extra thousandth of a second in lap-time. Girard-Perregaux is a valued partner to our organisation, and we have worked together to share and combine our knowledge to improve each other’s brands. The new Laureato Absolute Chronograph AMF1 is the first example of this collaboration, and a stunning example of the work we can achieve together.”


Two world premieres, one extraordinary watch

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition is housed in a 44mm highly innovative titanium and carbon case, an industry first. However, the Manufacture’s inventiveness also extends to this model’s strap, a further ‘world premiere’.  

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The GP Rubber Alloy, presented in Aston Martin Racing Green, is made of FKM rubber (FKM) and carbon elements taken from two Formula One™ race cars used during the 2021 season. The process for creating this pioneering composition is highly technical and requires specialised equipment. 

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Moreover, making such a technical strap necessitates extensive research into the compatibility of the materials used. The resultant strap proffers superior suppleness and resistance when contrasted with conventional rubber. In this instance, its appearance is enriched with a fabric-effect façade. The buckle, with its micro adjustment system, allows the wearer to fine-tune the union between the strap and their wrist.

Aston Martin has always been a byword for style and performance

Having been born on a racetrack 109 years ago, Aston Martin has always enjoyed a proud association with racing.

Over the years, it has participated in various forms of international competition, enjoying much success. However, while performance is a critical part of the marque’s DNA, Aston Martin is acknowledged as an iconic global brand synonymous with style, luxury, and exclusivity.

Aston Martin fuses the latest technology, time honoured craftsmanship and beautiful styling to produce a range of critically acclaimed luxury models including the Vantage, DB11, DBS and DBX and its first hypercar, the Aston Martin Valkyrie.

This is celebrated with the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph AMF1 Edition which incorporates several design influences from the prestigious ultra-luxury British marque’s products.

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The dial on the watch is presented in sunray ‘Aston Martin Racing Green’ and is adorned with cross-hatching, a motif that can be traced back to the Aston Martin ‘AM’ badge of 1921.

Many sports cars feature hollowed-out components that provide structural rigidity while at the same time mitigating mass. Moreover, the openings seen on several Aston Martin cars facilitate cooling. This new watch features open-worked hands throughout to imbue the design with a note of sportiness. A splash of lime is used to identify the chronograph hands to echo the design of the AMF1 car. The counterweight on the central chronograph hand emulates the side strakes widely used on numerous Aston Martin road cars. While the automotive influences are clear to see, some details are very subtle and may only be spotted by devotees of Aston Martin and those in the know.

Rear-engine power

Despite the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition being highly attractive, a reliable powerplant is also a prerequisite for success. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO For the first time on a Laureato Absolute Chronograph, the rear of the watch is fitted with a pane of sapphire crystal. 

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Now, the wearer can view the automatic Manufacture movement, the Calibre GP03300-1058.

A limited-edition

The Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One™ Team is based in Silverstone, England, close to the iconic racetrack. 

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With this in mind, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph AM F1 Edition is limited to 306 pieces, the total distance drivers Lance Stroll and Sebastian Vettel will aim to cover on race day (5.891km x 52 laps) at the 2022 British Grand Prix.

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  The model is immediately available worldwide in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: LAUREATO Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition to 306 pieces

Reference: 81060-41-3071-1CX

Case
Material: Titanium & carbon case with carbon extracted from two Formula
One™ race cars used during the 2021 season
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Height: 15,15 mm
Case-back: sapphire crystal with white Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: anti-reflective sapphire crystal, engraved “Limited Edition 306
Formula One™ Team decal
Dial
Sunray ‘Aston Martin Racing Green’ with cross-hatching
Markers: indexes with luminescent material (green emission)
Hands: skeletonised, ‘baton’ type with luminescent material (green emission)
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Movement
Reference: GP03300-1058
Type: Self-winding movement
Diameter: 25,95 mm (11 1/2''')
Height: 6,50 mm
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)
Number of components: 419
Jewels: 63
Oscillating weight: steel
Finishes: Côtes de Genève, circular graining and bevelling
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph.
Bracelet
Material: GP Rubber Alloy in Aston Martin Racing Green – a mix of rubber and carbon extracted from two Formula One™ race cars used during the 2021 season, fabric effect and green stitches
Size: 28,00 / 20,00 mm
Buckle: Folding with micro adjustment system, titanium with black PVD treatment


Limited to 306  Pieces

 Retail price CHF 26,500 / GBP £21,500 / USD $27,800

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Press release - 2022
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Girard-Perregaux Press Contact :
Leopoldo Celi
Head of Communication and Brand Image
+41 (0)79 303 50 72
leopoldo.celi@girard-perregaux.com

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Press Contact:
Manager: Steve Cooper
Senior Partner Media Officer
+44 7408 807885
Stephen.Cooper@astonmartinf1.com

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