Tuesday, May 10, 2022

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay PRO

TUDORHERITAGE Black Bay PRO Steel 39 mm Chronometer - 2022

 BLACK BAY PRO

TUDOR presents a new technical model with a whole new aesthetic. Named Black Bay Pro, it has a 39-millimetre diameter, a fixed steel bezel and a Manufacture Calibre with built-in GMT function.

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Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone feature, a technical complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in another time zone. Compact, robust and sporty, this model boasts many unique aesthetic details and celebrates the spirit of the technical watches that TUDOR has produced for professionals throughout its history.  

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Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour "Snowflake" hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function.

KEY POINTS

  • Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, 39 mm in diameter, with a 24-hour graduated fixed bezel in stainless steel
  • Domed dial, grained matt black, with applied hour markers in monobloc luminous ceramic
  • “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
  • Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve
  • A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather or riveted 316L steel with TUDOR "T-fit" clasp with rapid adjustment
  • Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks


ADVENTURER SPIRIT AND TECHNICAL AESTHETICS

Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. 

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He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn't imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic.  
 
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Tudor - Oyster Prince Submariner 7922  is a diver's watch from 1954

Tudor - Oyster Prince Submariner 7922  is a diver's watch from 1954 ============================================
The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.

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Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand's historical technical watches, this new component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic.

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This feature enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR "T-fit" rapid size-adjustment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this model. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the "T-fit" system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.

TWO TIME ZONES

On the Black Bay Pro model, the reference time is indicated by an angular yellow "Snowflake" hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter "Snowflake" hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. 

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The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o'clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

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It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. 

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Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. 

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In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is "weekend-proof", about 70 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

STEEL BRACELET OR JACQUARD-WOVEN OR LEATHER STRAP

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. 

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Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.

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For the Black Bay Pro, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a yellow band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. 

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These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and leather with a folding clasp.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers' watches.

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The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers' watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today's more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. 

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On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable.

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ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with refined aesthetics, proven reliability and unique value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when "The Tudor" was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He created the Montres TUDOR SA Company in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered mechanical manufacture movements with multiple functions and superior performance.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Black Bay PRO 39mm

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REFERENCE 79470

CASE
39 mm x 14.6mm height steel case with polished and satin finish
Open case back in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with sapphire crystal
BEZEL
24-hour graduated fixed bezel in satin-brushed steel
WINDING CROWN
Steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5652
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  7.52 mm
JEWELS  28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours
PRECISION  Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) 
OSCILLATOR  Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
FUNCTIONS
Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
DIAL
Black, domed
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or hybrid rubber
and fabric strap with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with yellow band and buckle

Price: EUR 3,750 on steel bracelet EUR 3,450 on strap

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Press Release - 2022
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Friday, May 6, 2022

TRILOBE – Nuit Fantastique DUNE Edition

 

TRILOBE Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition 2022

Trilobe in two-tone

This new model takes as its mantra "best of both worlds", for a pure and natural creation. This time, our iconic grained dial dons its summer dress with a colour reminiscent of dune sand. 

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For fans of 1930s vintage chic, this Dune Edition is the rebirth of a fiery, flamboyant hue whose refinement has already proven itself. Emphasizing and sublimating the infinity symbol through a colour contrast, the dune grained dial awakens under the light of the polished and satin-finished angles, like grains of sand in a desert lit by a radiant sun.

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Nuit Fantastique is available in Silver, Black, Blue, Green, Dune, Havana and “Secret” edition

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With a sober and elegant steel (40.5mm or 38.5mm) and rose gold case (40.5mm only) and a resistant sapphire crystal, this creation unveils a new interpretation of the passage of time by Trilobe.

Universality and Intemporality

The intertwining of the minutes and seconds gives a glimpse of the infinite and the time that goes on endlessly, within a satin-finished and polished in-dial bezel. 

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A new wink of universality and timelessness that is part of this time set in motion, always counterclockwise, an X-Centric conception of watchmaking dear to Trilobe.

Minimalism

The design of this creation favours minimalism and plays with perceptions. 

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The grained dial is a real technical challenge, underlying the watch elegance. It defies symmetrical shapes and is made up of four parts, three of which are in permanent rotation.

Unstructured Dial

Raw and uncluttered, this unstructured dial opens three distinct windows: The largest ring for the hours; the minute wheel that appears within an aperture and the seconds wheel, which alternates between a “Clou de Paris” centre and an azured ring.

X-Centric Calibre, Trilobe's signature movement

A savvy mix of boldness and French poetry, between traditional Swiss watchmaking and an X-Centric vision. 

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Our watches are equipped with our X-Centric calibre, hallmark of our brand, with an architectural centred perspective, one of Trilobe’s key pillars.

Contemporary, Sleek and Refined Finishes

Hand-polished chamfered brought lugs, satin case middle alternating mirror-polished and brushed surfaces: the unconventional architecture of Trilobe’s cases, built in 7 elements, allows to bring the most sophisticated finishes for each of them.

Architecture and movement

Contemporary and classic, Inspired by the codes of architecture, a pillar dear to Trilobe, Fantastic Night is a new plunge into the deconstructivism called "new modern architecture". 

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An architecture that invites to rethink freely: new geometries, atypical shape, movement, and dynamism! 

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This unconventional architecture shakes up what we know, disturbs our way of conceiving shapes and their functions. It is a new movement that advocates the go beyond the traditional patterns.

New Edition

Designed for a 316L steel or 18K rose gold case, the Dune edition of the Nuit Fantastique collection pays tribute to the purity of Trilobe’s design. The treatment of the stamped and grained dial unfolds the dune color of this edition thus creating the illusion of sand settled on the dial. 

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This edition is an ode to natural, sophisticated, and humble elegance, embodying with finesse and style a timeless and refined luxury, for an offbeat watch creation.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Nuit Fantastique

Model: TRILOBE Nuit Fantastique DUNE Edition

Movement
Highly proprietary X-Centric module developed and manufactured by Jean-François Mojon, made by Le Cercle des Horlogers

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Around 48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph/4 Hz
Functional rubies: 33
Total movement parts: 230

Indications
Hours, minutes and seconds displayed by rotating rings and fixed indicators
Patent

A display concept comprising three display devices representing the hours, minutes and seconds situated on the same plane as the dial.
Case specificities
Made of 316L stainless steel, grade 5 titanium, or 18-carat rose gold
Thickness: 8.8 mm (Les Matinaux) and 9.2 mm (Nuit Fantastique) I Diameter : 40.5 mm and 38.5 mm
Lug to lug : 45.5 mm (in 38.5 mm) and 48 mm (in 40.5 mm)  I Lug width : 20 mm
Made up of 7 pieces
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered anti-reflective treatment (ARDUR)
Brought horns. Anti-reflective sapphire back
Water-resistance tested to 5 bar (≈ 50 meters) for the steel/titanium version and 3 bar (≈ 30 meters) for the rose gold version
Crown
Push button crown with a diameter of 38.5 mm
Screw down crown with a diameter of 40.5 mm
Dial
Grained dial colour reminiscent of dune sand
The largest ring for the hours
Available in Silver, Black, Blue, Green, Dune, Havana and “Secret” edition
Havana brown, blue or  black (silver dial also available) - matte grained surface - peripheral rotating hours - minutes and seconds placed inside a figure-eight on left side of dial - hours and minutes and seconds 
Strap
Leather with a pin buckle in steel, titanium or rose gold


WARRANTY
24 months from the date of delivery


PRICE - 18'375 CHF

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Watches and Wonders 2022
 Trilobe takes part in the Geneva Watch Show

After participating in the 100% digital edition of the Watches and Wonders Watch Show in 2021, Trilobe has the honour to take part in the 2022 edition, alongside the most prestigious watch brands. For this new edition, the show will take place in an hybrid format. After two years of being entirely online, the year 2022 marks the long-awaited return of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, for an immersive experience in the setting of Palexpo. 40 Houses will be reunited for the first time for 7 days, from 30 March to 5 April, and will vibrate to the rhythm of a thrilling watch-industry week. But visitors of the show will also be able to live the experience online, by accessing all contents on the digital platform watchesandwonders.com, live or in replay : Product presentations, new product launches, keynotes, panel discussions and conferences.

However, nothing can ever replace in-person experience, and Watches and Wonders 2022 promises to be a wonderful reunion to which Trilobe is delighted to attend.

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Trilobe will have the pleasure of exhibiting in the Carré des Horlogers, alongside fifteen independent designers at the centre of the show. This highly awaited watchmaking summit, likely to be the key event of 2022, will be the right time for the brand to present its collections and latest developments to the watchmaking world. But Watches and Wonders is above all an incredible opportunity for Trilobe to raise awareness and set itself apart by immersing visitors of the show in its X-Centric world.

Whether in Geneva or elsewhere in the world, make a date for this leading watchmaking summit! Join us from 30 March to 5 April 2022, in-person or online.

More information at watchesandwonders.com
 

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