Friday, April 8, 2022

IWC – PILOT’s Watches Chronograph TOP GUN

 

IWC SchaffhausenPILOT’s Watches Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium® Edition 2022

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 CHRONOGRAPHS IN “IWC LAKE TAHOE” WHITE AND “IWC WOODLAND” GREEN CERAMIC JOIN IWC’S TOP GUN RANGE OF PILOT’S WATCHES

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Schaffhausen, 30th March 2022 – As the Watches and Wonders exhibition opens in Geneva, IWC Schaffhausen unveils two new TOP GUN chronographs in colored ceramic in the Pilot’s Watches family. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Lake Tahoe” features a white ceramic case and a black dial.  

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The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Woodland” combines a dark green ceramic case and dial with pushers, crown and a case back in matte black Ceratanium®. Both timepieces are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre movement. The annual production of the new models will be limited to 1000 pieces each.

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A double chronograph with a black zirconium oxide ceramic case and titanium case back marked the birth of the TOP GUN line in IWC’s Pilot’s Watches family in 2007. Since then, advanced materials have been the hallmark of TOP GUN, lending these timepieces their distinctive technical look. In 2019, IWC introduced the 👉Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition Mojave Desert, the first TOP GUN model in sand-colored ceramic. Today, IWC completes the collection with two new chronographs in white and green ceramic.

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    “These new chronographs not only underscore IWC’s longstanding and extensive experience in the fields of in-house chronographs and advanced materials.  The white and green ceramic used for the cases also illustrates the current evolution of TOP GUN from a
    the collection primarily focused on performance to a bold style statement and an expression of a distinct way of life
,”

Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen

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    “The color of uniforms and the fascinating landscapes views admired by pilots have inspired our new chronographs. In an unprecedented engineering process, we have developed two completely new ceramic colors – ‘IWC Lake Tahoe’ white and ‘IWC Woodland’ green – and matched meticulously all other components of the  watches to these new shades,”

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Christian Knoop, Chief Design Officer of IWC Schaffhausen

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Located between California and Nevada, Lake Tahoe is a mountainous area frequently flown over by the pilots of the U.S Navy TOP GUN School. The winter landscape around this freshwater lake as well as white uniforms have influenced the design of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Lake Tahoe” (Ref. IW389105)

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The chronograph features a 44.5-millimetre white ceramic case, a pitch-black dial, and black hands coated with luminescent material. IWC and Pantone have specified the ceramic color as “IWC Lake Tahoe”.

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The pushers and crown are made of stainless steel, the case back of titanium. The matching white rubber strap with a distinctive embossing accentuates the eye-catching design.

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The flight suits of naval aviators have inspired the distinctive shade of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Woodland” (Ref. IW389106). The newly developed “IWC Woodland” green is used for the ceramic case and the dial, while the numerals and hour markers are printed in a lighter hue. The pushers and the case back are made of matte black Ceratanium®. 

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Developed by IWC, this material combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. A matching green rubber strap with textile inlay completes the design.

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Both timepieces are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre, a robust and reliable chronograph with a column-wheel design. In addition, they feature soft iron inner cases to protect their movements from the effects of magnetic fields. 

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The front glasses are specially secured to withstand sudden drops in air pressure. Both watches are water-resistant to 6 bar and feature the iconic TOP GUN logo as an engraving on the case back.

UNPRECEDENTED COLOR ENGINEERING

The use of colored ceramics for the new TOP GUN chronographs added an extra layer of complexity to the design and manufacturing process. With “IWC Lake Tahoe” and “IWC Woodland”, IWC engineered two completely new ceramic colors. 

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A major challenge was to adapt the newly developed ceramic white and green shades to numerous other components made of different materials – each with unique properties and a specific manufacturing process – such as the dial, the hands, the rubber straps and textile inlays, and even luminescent paint.

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EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE WITH COLORED CERAMIC

In the 1980s, IWC carried out pioneering work in the field of ceramic. The company first used this hard and scratch-resistant material in 1986 for the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 3755). Ceramic made its debut in the Pilot’s Watches collection with the 1994 Pilot’s Chronograph Ceramic (Ref. 3705). As early as the 1980s, IWC also experimented with different colors and produced small series or prototypes in white, blue, green, or even pink ceramic.

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The production of colored ceramic cases is a particularly demanding exercise. Each case is the result of a unique formula and manufacturing process. Zirconium oxide is combined with other metallic oxides to give the ceramic its color. 

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Each shade requires different raw materials and a distinct mixing ratio. In addition, the manufacturing process and its specific conditions – such as the temperature and the duration of the sintering process – must be adapted to the colored ceramic and its components. What’s more, colored ceramic also places significantly higher demands on the purity of the raw materials.

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The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Lake Tahoe” and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Woodland” are available through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners or online at IWC.com.

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They are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefiting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model  PILOT’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition

Ref. IW389105 Edition “Lake Tahoe”

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Ref. IW389106 Edition “Woodland”

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FEATURES

  • Mechanical chronograph movement
  • – Chronograph function for hours, minutes and seconds
  • – Date and day display
  • – Small hacking seconds
  • – Screw-in crown
  • – Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields
  • – Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure
  • Edition annual production 1000 pieces
MOVEMENT
IWC manufacture calibre 69380
Frequency 28,800 vph/4 Hz
Jewels 33
Power reserve 46 h
Winding Automatic
WATCH
Materials Ceramic case Ceratanium®
Color: Green / White
Diameter 44.50mm
Height 15.7 mm
Titanium case back, stainless steel crown and pusher
Glass Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides 
Water-resistant 6 bar 
DIAL  
Black or Green
Squadron patch in small seconds counter at 6 o'clock 
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock 
Luminous hands and hour markers
Day/date feature at 3 o’clock
Strap
White rubber strap
Strap width 22 mm 
 
Limited Edition to 1000 pieces each.
 
 
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Press releases - 2022
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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Thursday, April 7, 2022

De Bethune – DB28GS ‘JPS’ Edition

 

De BethuneCURRENT DB28GSJohn Player Special Black Zirconium Edition 2022

 De Bethune in Black and Gold

A nod to the daring age of Formula 1 in the 1970s, but also, and above all, to that key period of mechanical and aerodynamic research... De Bethune captures this spirit with the DB28GS 'JPS'.

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JPS. John Player Special. Three letters evoking the legendary association of black and gold. More than a brand, a whole universe, an iconic colour code; that of Team Lotus with its totally revolutionary, unbeatable cars, the most successful of their time, often cited as the most beautiful Formula 1 cars ever built! JPS is like a mechanical dream. A succession of victories. Seven Constructors' World Championship titles, six Drivers' World Championship titles shared by legendary drivers such as Jim Clark, Graham Hill, Jochen Rindt, Emerson Fittipaldi, Mario Andretti... What an era!

Those of us who were boys and girls in the early 1970s remember seeing the black and gold 'rockets' through their teenage eyes; the drivers and their black and gold suits; the black and gold helmets; the engineers whose work we glimpsed for the first time thanks to the installation of cameras in the pits...

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Lotus JPS cars were also the first single-seaters to take full advantage of the major technological advances of the time, as well as research  aerodynamics, and the first computer-assisted developments... F1 helped shape the collective imagination. Fearsome and severe black paired with glorious gleaming gold made JPS a 1970s benchmark from which De Bethune drew inspiration for a new version of its DB28GS 'JPS' sports watch.

A sporty black and gold watch; a nod to the bold 'JPS' spirit of the era

What a pleasure for Denis Flageollet and his team to go back to that time and indulge in “tuning” his first sports watch – the DB28GS – so as to offer a black and gold version in steel, titanium and zirconium.

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Constantly refining the structural nuances hovering between polished and matt, dark grey and deep black, while sparingly adding golden accents that are in fact yellow titanium – a new opportunity to demonstrate De Bethune's expertise in working with the oxidation of titanium and its colour palette. De Bethune blue, the brand's historic and pioneering signature, is now succeeded by a golden yellow colour, for which the creative process required new assembly techniques and new texturing skills – all of which Denis Flageollet and his team have developed to bring the project to fruition and thus pay tribute to this formidable era of high-tech discoveries.

Mechanical communion

1978. The Lotus 78 JPS Mark III revolutionised the aerodynamics of competitive motoring. Its all-new upturned aeroplane wing profile enabled it to leverage the suction effect. The car was truly 'glued' to the track, spectacular, innovative, defying convention and committed to  uncharted optimization territory. Its unique handling enabled Mario Andretti to become a legend in his own right, and the Lotus team with him.

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Just as the engineers of the F1 teams were looking to improve the aerodynamics of their single-seaters (and to increase the suction effect of the cars on the track), Denis Flageollet and his team also worked on improving the performance of the movement's regulating organs. This notably involved enhancing the aerodynamics of the balance by pursuing the exact opposite objective of motor-racing in seeking to eliminate the suction effect that pushes it towards the mainplate.

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To clarify matters, it is worth recalling that air is also a fluid, albeit an invisible one. A Swiss mathematician, Daniel Bernoulli, developed a principle stating that within the flow of a fluid, an acceleration occurs simultaneously with a decrease in pressure. This is what enables an aeroplane to fly. Its wings have two different profiles: on the curved side, the air goes faster (because it has to cover a greater distance); while on the other side, the air flows slower, with the difference in pressure creating the lift that allows the plane to fly.

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This is exactly what Denis Flageollet is trying to do with his balances: they pass so close to the mainplate that they tend to experience a suction effect. In the case of a race car, its upturned wing generates negative lift that pushes the car towards the track, increasing the grip of its tyres and enabling it to go faster around corners. De Bethune's balances have exactly the opposite effect, giving them an "aeroplane wing" effect and thus providing lift and lightness that almost allows them to "fly".

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While the suction effect is even more powerful with the acceleration of the car, the same occurs during the acceleration phase of the balance. Just as the F1 car takes advantage of the upturned wing to press the car to the ground when it accelerates, the benefit is just as effective in reverse for the balance, which uses the aeroplane wing process to avoid it being 'pushed' towards the mainplate.

Mastering DLC treatment

Similarly, whereas F1 engineers were among the first to work on DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) anti-friction coatings to reduce the friction of metal parts in their engines and thus improve performance, Denis Flageollet and his team have worked on the fantastic properties of DLC coating on hardened steel to improve the durability of watches’ black floating lugs and bezels.

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Often used rather inappropriately in watchmaking by applying it to materials that are too soft – such as 316L stainless steel or titanium which are deformed beneath the DLC layer and render it brittle – De Bethune uses DLC treatment only on ultra-hard tempered stainless steels such as those used in engines or for sharp surgical tools. The hard DLC layer adheres perfectly to the hard material and is not destroyed by impacts (unlike a DLC treatment applied to an excessively soft material); on the contrary, it even improves the overall quality.

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While the two-tone colour scheme of the DB28GS 'JPS' is in equal measure dark and bright, matt and glossy, it also features a blend of lighting and enlightenment.

Exactly ten years ago, De Bethune started developing timepieces imbued with a more contemporary spirit, as embodied in the first DB28. Already at the time, Denis Flageollet – founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune as well as a keen outdoor sports enthusiast – felt the need to create watches suited to an active lifestyle.

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Based on the observation that a sports watch must offer perfect legibility in all kinds of weather and every possible situation, the movement was developed from the outset in such a way as to light up the dial and movement from the inside. A white light source is thus produced by an entirely mechanical means that works on a dynamo-inspired principle.

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No electronics, no battery, entirely mechanical... A pusher at 6 o’clock serves to provide light on demand thanks to a gear train driven by the double barrel. By means of an original miniature dynamo, this gear train supplies the energy necessary to light up the face of the watch without affecting its operation and the energy necessary for the smooth running of its movement. This is a real challenge that is truly comparable to the highly technical operation of a minute repeater movement, in which the overall energy efficiency must be maximal and perfectly controlled.

A few seconds of light are more than enough to read the time, even at night. The DB28 GS 'JPS' is black and gold, even in the dark.

Ergonomy and comfort

Finally, the DB28 GS originally launched in 2015 meets De Bethune's sporting, technical and aesthetic aspirations. Measuring 44 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS 'JPS' is no exception to the De Bethune rule of wearer comfort.

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It owes this exceptional comfort to the combination of black zirconium and stainless steel; the softness of its hand-polished finish; the 12 o'clock position of its crown; and above all to the presence of the patented floating lug system with their famous cone-shaped tips that are more pro-eminent than ever, comprising polished yellow grade 5 titanium inserts recalling the side of the case. The result is a construction that adapts particularly well to the size of each wrist and the way it moves.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  DB28 Sports Watch

Name: DB28GS John Player SpecialEdition

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Reference: DB28GSV2JPS


Movement: DB2080
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
– Mirror-polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge 
– Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” De Bethune Innovation (2007
– Hand snailed barrels 
– Hand-polished, flame-blued and chamfered steel parts

- Self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
- Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, De Bethune Patent (2016)
- "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
- Silicon escape wheel
- Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, De Bethune Innovation (2005)
- Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher, De Bethune Innovation (2019)

Technical features of calibre DB2080
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling35 jewels
Frequency:  28,800 vibrations per hour
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Adornment: Mirror- polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving”
De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts
Display
Dial: Black satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals, Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring, Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock
Hands: Black titanium hours and minutes hands with polished steel insert and second yellow steel insert, luminescent tip - Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Case and strap
Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, black brushed and polished harden stainless steel caseback and bezel
Case diameter: 44mm
Case thickness: 12.8 mm
Attachments: Floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Glass: Sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown at 12 o’clock, setting in two positions
Back: Open in black polished harden stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Strap: Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp in brushed grade 5 titanium


Limited to Only 25 Pieces 

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Press release -- Geneva 2022

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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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