Tuesday, October 26, 2021

De Bethune – DW5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Edition

 

De BethuneDream Watch DW5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1 Titanium Blued Limited Edition 2021

The austerity of metal transformed into an expression of life.

An anthem to transparency and light:
De Bethune presents the Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’
This timepiece is the result of a genuine challenge
issued to De Bethune by the American star Swizz Beatz.
Denis Flageollet and his team came up with a response.


Mastery of sapphire crystal, skilled workmanship in titanium, horological virtuosity:
the outcome is an exceptional timepiece, breathtaking in its singular technical
sophistication and aesthetics, as visually understated as it was complex to create.
 
Only 10 of these timepieces will be produced

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This watch does not stem from the kind of collaboration to which the watch industry is accustomed – in fact quite the opposite. Driven by a spirit of going further and indeed as far as possible, it is the story of an authentic challenge set by American rap star, producer and talent scout Swizz Beatz. He spontaneously contacted De Bethune in 2020 and dared the Swiss watch manufacturer to create a totally different Dream Watch 5.

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Master Watchmaker and brand founder Denis Flageollet set to work with his team on creating a timepiece that would convey his resolutely futuristic vision of the watchmaking art. The design of this watch was to be fully in line with their existing achievements, yet at the same time challenging them to create a singular, refined and sophisticated timepiece that would remain user-friendly and easily legible, based on materials and construction typifying De Bethune's quest for contemporary aestheticism.

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Entirely themed around the concepts of light and transparency, the project appeared to offer a new field of research, an opportunity for a different interpretation. A fresh approach to the use of sapphire crystal; blued titanium as the keystone; a movement with multiple reflections and finishes finally revealed to the observer’s admiring gaze: the equation began to take shape and now unveils a unique result, breathtaking to those who capable of perceiving the extreme complexity of its creation.

Contemporary creations

Among the various collections, the one titled “Dream Watch” encompasses the most experimental creations. Impossible to classify, it is at once the most extreme form, yet also the one that best reflects the philosophy developed by the brand, i.e. an approach involving fundamental exploration of watchmaking.  

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A veritable wrist sculpture, Dream Watch 5 derives its distinctive shape from its predecessors, from the bridge of Dream Watch 1 to the case of Dream Watch 4, and is thus part of ongoing research into shapes, materials and colours. With each new creation, the design is refined in the direction of a curved deltoid motif, a major component of the aesthetics of the collection and more generally of De Bethune watches.

Finally, the Empreinte (mark) made on all young designers by Pierre

The DW5, a stature naturally conducive to transparency

Amid the vast range of horological complications and skills in which De Bethune has become a virtuoso, the mastery of sapphire crystal has played one of the leading roles for the teams at the Manufacture in the Swiss Jura town of Sainte-Croix.

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De Bethune has been a pioneer in the use of this technical material, generally used in watchmaking to produce glasses or cases – and always in constant, regular, flat or spherical shapes. The Maison has instead taken a path less travelled by introducing sophisticated and unexpected applications. As early as 2008, De Bethune produced the first sapphire crystal hands, encircled by blued titanium, to be fitted on the DB26QP. This was followed by the production of movement components, including the famous delta bridge of the DB28 Steel Wheel movement, ingeniously complemented by two small barrel covers, also made of sapphire crystal, enabling users to immerse themselves in every last detail of the mechanism.

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There is nothing straight or flat about the DW5 case, nor any constant radius or regular lines. Its design pushes the envelope in terms of exploration and research.

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Far from simply carving the case from a single block of sapphire using customary traditional methods, Denis Flageollet endeavoured to adapt the sapphire to the watch's titanium case. This was no small technical challenge, as the team had to insert no less than seven different sapphire parts – each crafted with unique curves and proportions – which would then be perfectly embedded into the blued polished titanium exoskeleton.

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This involved extremely complex adjustment work, meticulously performed by the most expert hands. No rough edges could be tolerated. Every tiny angle detail must be controlled so that the result features lines that are entirely smooth both visually and to the touch: a true technical feat. Aesthetically, the blue-tinted sapphire matches the blued titanium of the case middle and the cold light emanating from it magnifies the shimmer of the movement finishes.

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The dial side reveals the small two-tone sphere indicating the moon phases. Composed of two assembled and polished half-spheres in blued steel and palladium, it guides the eye towards the minimalist digital display of the hours and minutes, visible through a hand-cut cabochon-shaped crystal such as only a select few are capable of producing.

On the back of the timepiece, the sapphire crystal creates the illusion of a magnifying glass effect enabling even greater appreciation of the beauty and elegance exuded by the DB2149 calibre and its tourbillon, fully revealed for the very first time. Visually very technical and extremely slender, it is truly showcased by its blued crystal surround.

Superlative timekeeping precision

While De Bethune is dedicated to pursuing an aesthetic and creative approach to the DW5, the team remains faithful to the essence of watchmaking, which involves developing and producing the most accurate possible timepieces. In the case of the Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon 'Season 1', the mechanical hand-wound DB2149 movement incorporates a high-speed tourbillon developed by De Bethune.

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Ultra-light at a mere 0.18 grams for 63 components and beating time to the nearest tenth of a second, it makes a complete revolution in 30 seconds. These three key elements determine the precision of a tourbillon and De Bethune has chosen optimum performance for each. 

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The calibre houses a titanium balance-wheel encircled by a patented white gold ring, a balance-spring featuring an in-house developed and patented De Bethune terminal curve, and a silicon escape-wheel oscillating at a rate 36,000 vibrations per hour, which gives it superior chronometry. The likewise in-house developed self-regulating twin barrel ensures constant torque for the calibre. All this has enabled the movement to gain 20% in terms of power reserve.

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The time can be read off in digital format through a trapeze-shaped sapphire aperture with a jumping hours disc and another trailing minutes disc. The centre displays the regular rotation of the spherical moon phase, a patented complication so accurate that it requires adjustment by lunar day only every 1,112 years. The watch is wound and set by means of a crown adorned with a blue cabochon-cut sapphire.

Supremely refined finishes provided by the deft hand of the engraver Michèle Rothen

The De Bethune approach to artistic crafts bears vibrant tribute to human skills. Among the various handmade decorations specific to De Bethune movements, the mirror-polishing of the movement components creates an astonishing play on light. The surface of each component is patiently polished until it becomes a real mirror. It can take up to several days of polishing of the different parts to achieve this result.

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Inside the case, by dint of craftsmanship involving a blend of engraving and micro-sculpture, the work of Swiss engraver Michèle Rothen – who has been collaborating with Denis Flageollet for many years – consisted of patiently and meticulously raising the material with the tip of her burin. She thus retouched each surface state, each micro-detail and each relief in order to "lift" the design and thus perfect the whole – a process much like redrawing the piece one last time and thus enabling it to catch the light even more generously.

Blue, a fundamental element

Finally, for De Bethune, the colour blue carries a broad and deep meaning, associated with the notion of fullness: within oneself or beyond, and extending to the unfathomable infinity of the universe, the source of life. Evoking water, sky and space, it is envisaged by Denis Flageollet as a luminous vibration. "The cosmos, the heavens above… when you want to see time evolve and you have no instruments, you observe the sky. This is one of the recurring themes in watchmaking.” Since the foundation of the brand, blue has been intimately associated with the technical and aesthetic research and development of the maison. The Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon 'Season 1' will be a single-colour version. The radical and mesmerising blue of the different materials stems from artisanal and natural treatments specific to each. 

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Faithful to the codes of Manufacture De Bethune, the Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon 'Season 1' remarkably perpetuates the heritage of its predecessors: a contemporary and audacious aesthetic, along with perfect balance, dedicated to serving an exceptional mechanism.

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A 10-piece limited edition presented by De Bethune with the collaboration of its friend and fine watchmaking connoisseur Swizz Beatz.


About  Clara Martin: ▶️ Clara-Martin.com

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Dream Watch 

Name: DW5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1

Reference: DW5TSB

Number of timepieces: 10-piece limited edition

Functions: Hours, minutes, central spherical moon-phase indication, 30-minute
indication on the ultra-light silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon cage appearing on the back

Movement: Calibre DB2149

Type: Mechanical hand-wound
Adjustments: By means of the crown adorned with a blue cabochon-cut sapphire
Three positions for winding, the spherical moon phase and time-setting
Technical characteristics of Calibre DB2149
Number of components: 356
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: Four days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
De Bethune innovation (2004)
Specific characteristics : Titanium balance-wheel with white gold inserts
De Bethune patent (2016)
De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve
De Bethune patent (2006)
Silicon escape-wheel
Spherical moon-phase display accurate to within one lunar day every 1,112 years
De Bethune patent (2004)
De Bethune ultra-light silicon and titanium 30-second tourbillon
De Bethune innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations/hour
Decorations: Hand-crafted finishes and decorations

Dial: Blued grade 5 titanium aperture frame
Display
Displays: Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Minutes indication on a dragging rotating disc
Palladium and flame-blued steel spherical moon-phase indication
accurate to within one lunar day every 1,112 years De Bethune patent (2004)
Case
Ogive-shaped in hand-polished and blued grade 5 titanium,
openworked with sapphire blue inserts and hand-engraved motifs
Diameter: Length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Thickness: 17 mm
Crown: Cabochon-cut blue sapphire
Glass: Hardened mineral
Caseback: Screw-in back in polished and blued grade 5 titanium, openworked
with blue sapphire inserts and opening onto the ultra-thin silicon and
titanium De Bethune tourbillon performing one rotation every 30 seconds
De Bethune innovation (2008)
Water resistance: 3 ATM, equivalent to 30 metres
Strap
Blue canvas/leather with an additional rubber strap
Buckle: Titanium with polished and blued titanium pin buckle
 

EDITION     Limited edition to 10 pieces

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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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www.DeBethune.ch

Monday, October 25, 2021

IWC – Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Ceratanium ALL-BLACK Edition

 

IWC SchaffhausenPILOT’s Watch TOP GUN Ceratanium® Matte ALL-BLACK Edition 2021

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 IWC LAUNCHES PERFORMANCE-ORIENTED TOP GUN PILOT’S WATCHES IN CERATANIUM® IN A TACTICAL ALL-BLACK DESIGN

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Schaffhausen, October 25, 2021 - IWC Schaffhausen is adding two Ceratanium® models to its TOP GUN Pilot’s Watch range. Engineered in Schaffhausen, this innovative new material combines the structural integrity of titanium with a scratch resistance similar to that of ceramic and features a striking matte black color. 

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The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first watch from IWC with a Ceratanium® bracelet, which is lighter than steel and very comfortable to wear. The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication, allowing the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly. Both novelties are powered by IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families.

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Advanced performance materials such as ceramics, titanium and Ceratanium® are a signature feature of IWC’s TOP GUN pilot’s watches. They take their name from the legendary Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, a rigorous course used by the US Navy to train its elite pilots in flying and tactical skills. TOP GUN watches are engineered to deliver ultimate performance and can withstand even the extreme strain pilots experience in the cockpit of a supersonic jet.

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After pioneering the use of ceramics and titanium for wristwatches during the 1980s, IWC’s material engineers have now succeeded in combining the unique strengths of these two in a single, ground-breaking material. Developed over five years, Ceratanium® combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. In addition, Ceratanium® is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion.

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 Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen

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    “Ceratanium® is unique not only because of its outstanding material properties. With its matte black color, it also enables us to manufacture watches in a completely jet-black design. After introducing several models with Ceratanium® cases, we are now going one step further and for the first time present a bracelet crafted from this innovative material,”

Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen

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The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604) features a case, crown and, for the first time, a bracelet made of Ceratanium®. As this material is based on a titanium alloy, the bracelet is around 30 percent lighter than a steel bracelet and extremely comfortable to wear. The black dial with gray numerals enhances the jet-black design. This TOP GUN model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre, visible through the tinted sapphire glass case back. 

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The Pellaton winding system is fitted with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic and builds up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels. A single nightly switching impulse from the base movement drives the perpetual calendar. Its mechanical program automatically recognizes different month lengths and leap years and will require no correction until 2100.  

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Another IWC specialty is the specific moon phase display, which depicts the moon as it is seen from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. It is so precise that it will only deviate by one day after 577.5 years. The annual production of this extraordinary timepiece will be limited to 150 pieces.

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The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505) is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication. The watch can be set to a different time zone by simply pressing down and rotating the bezel. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour steps. This also works across the dateline and without losing a single second. The case is made of Ceratanium®, while the city ring is manufactured from ceramic. It contains the names of 24 cities, each one representing one of the international time zones. 

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The numerals are printed in gray on the dial, while the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are coated with a luminescent material. The jet-black tactical design is complemented with a tinted sapphire glass case back and a black rubber strap with textile inlay.

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The IWC-manufactured 82760 calibre uses a Pellaton winding system reinforced with ceramic components to build up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring. The annual production of the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium will be limited to 500 pieces.

MACHINED FROM BARS AND FIRED AT HIGH TEMPERATURES

Ceratanium® is arguably one of IWC’s most important material innovations in recent years. IWC first used this material in 2017 for the case of the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition 50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. 379403). 

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In 2019, the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW371815) was the first all-black Pilot’s Watch. Ceratanium® is based on a special titanium alloy that is forged to IWC’s specifications. 

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The case components are machined from bars to minimal tolerances using computer-controlled turning and milling centers and are then elaborately finished by hand. Afterwards, the components are fired in a kiln at high temperatures. During this firing process, a phase transformation occurs. As a result, the surface of the material not only obtains properties similar to ceramics, such as hardness and scratchresistance, but also its striking matte black finish.

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The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium and the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium are available now through IWC boutiques, authorized retail partners or online at IWC.com. In addition, both timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program and thus benefit from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection : BIG PILOT’s Watch

 Model   BIG PILOT’s Watch Perpetual Calendar® Edition TOP GUN Ceratanium®

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 Ref  IW503604

FEATURES
  •  Mechanical movement 
  •  Pellaton automatic winding system 
  •  Power reserve display 
  •  Perpetual Calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres 
  •  Small hacking seconds 
  •  Screw-in crown 
  •  Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure 
  •  See-through sapphire glass back
  •  Limited to 150 pieces
MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured Automatic calibre  52615
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
164 Components
Jewels:    54
Power reserve:   7 days (168 h)
Winding:    Automatic
DIAL
Brushed black dial, Sand-coloured black hands with luminescence
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date. Power reserve display 
Perpetual Calendar
Day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres 
WATCH
Materials:   Ceratanium®
Diameter:    46.2 mm
Height:    15.40 mm
Crown:  Screw-locked
Glass:    Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 6 bar
STRAP:
Sand-coloured Ceratanium® bracelet with folding clasp
Strap width 22 mm

Limited Edition - Only 150 Pieces
 
PRICE - Excl. Sales Tax 
CHF 48,000.00 ~

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection : PILOT’s Watch

Model   PILOT’s Watch Timezoner® Edition TOP GUN Ceratanium®

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 Ref  IW395505
 

FEATURES
  •     IWC-patented Timezoner® function
  •     24-hour display for Worldtimer function
  •     Timezoner ® function for setting another time zone using the rotating bezel
  •     Date display
  •     Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure
  •     Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
  •     Pellaton automatic winding
  •     Black rotor with 18-carat gold medallion
  •     Central hacking seconds
  •     Limited to 500 pieces
MOVEMENT
IWC manufacture calibre 82760

Frequency 28,800 vph/4 Hz
Automatic, self-winding
284 Components
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Jewels 22
Power reserve 60 h

WATCH

Materials: Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 46.0 mm
Height: 
15.10 mm
Brushed with polished accents
Sapphire crystals front and caseback (Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure)
Screw-in crown
Rotating bezel with black ceramic insert, used to change time zone  
Glass:
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistant: 6 bar (-60m)

DIAL
Brushed black dial, black hands
Applied stylized Arabic numerals and hands filled with luminescent material
STRAP
Black rubber strap with textile inlay
Strap width 22 mm
Black stainless steel pin buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 500
timepieces 
PRICE  - CHF 18,000 Excl. Sales Tax
 
Register now to become a member of My IWC and benefit from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Year: Available from 2021
 
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Press releases - 2021
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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