Thursday, September 16, 2021

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS 2021

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 A ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED PAVED WITH DIAMONDS

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to present a new 18-carat pink gold Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked  timepiece set with 436 baguette-cut diamonds. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO The diamonds’ purity and shimmering effect create interesting plays of light and illuminate the cutting-edge double balance wheel mechanism visible on both sides of the watch. The radiance and elegance of this distinctive timepiece marrying Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie will attract attention from a distance.

THE ART OF GEMSETTING

The 436 baguette-cut diamonds adorning the case, bracelet and bezel of the new Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked have been carefully selected to respond to the Manufacture’s highest criteria in terms of clarity, cut and colour. The diamonds have been individually cut and polished to reach clear and sharp angles before being invisibly set by hand. 

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Tiny grooves are delicately cut in each stone. The baguette-cut diamonds are then snapped into a hidden rail mounted in the gold case as well as in the bracelet’s links and connecting studs, giving the impression that they are holding on their own. Pushing meticulousness a step further, the gemsetting continues all the way down to the folding clasp, reflecting light, while creating a pure scintillating effect.

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The glittering case and bracelet illuminate the openworked mechanism, whose rhodium-toned hues harmoniously echo the grey shades of the inner bezel and reflecting diamonds. To add a subtle hint of colour, the hour-markers are adorned with 11 pink gold-toned baguette-cut sapphires, around which rotate the 18-carat pink gold Royal Oak hands. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the 22-carat pink gold double balance wheel pushes the contrast further for a refined touch down to the last detail.

PATENTED INNOVATION MEETS ANCESTRAL CRAFTSMANSHIP

The diamond-set pink gold bezel offers a scintillating frame to Calibre 3132, equipped with a double balance wheel mechanism. This patented innovation, released by Audemars Piguet in 2016, improves the watch’s precision and stability.  

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By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony. Visible on both sides of the case, the double balance wheel confers a rare glimpse at the watch’s beating heart.

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n addition, the openworked bridges reveal part of the gear train on the dial and caseback sides. An Audemars Piguet speciality since the 1930s, openworking is an art balancing aesthetic and function. Highly trained experts create the movement by starting with the end design and working backwards. 

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Cut too little in the wrong place and it looks wrong. Cut too much and the movement’s functionality is compromised. Solving the puzzle demands horological mastery and profound knowledge of materials and finishing techniques.

Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS

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 Reference 15417OR.ZZ.1267OR.01

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 3132

Total diameter 26.6 mm (11 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 5.6 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 245
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 45 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds.
CASE
18-carat pink gold case and bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Rhodium-toned openworked movement, hour-markers set with pink gold-toned baguette-cut
sapphires, pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, grey inner bezel.
BRACELET
18-carat pink gold bracelet set with baguette-cut diamonds with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp
set with baguette-cut diamonds.

GEMSETTING
💎436 baguette-cut diamonds and 💎11 baguette-cut sapphires for a total of 44.8 carats.

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Press Release - 2021
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Wednesday, September 15, 2021

H. MOSER & CIE. – STREAMLINER Perpetual Calendar

 

H. MOSER & CIE.STREAMLINER Perpetual Calendar Power Reserve 2021

In 2005, H. Moser & Cie. marked its return to Haute Horlogerie by revolutionising the perpetual calendar with the Perpetual 1. Distinctly minimalist and understated, to the non-expert eye, this movement simply looks like a calibre with three hands plus the date. Simple in appearance and yet so ingenious, it immediately earned its place as one of the Manufacture’s flagship products.

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In 2021, H. Moser & Cie. is innovating and revisiting this famous movement with its instantaneous date change function as a version featuring four central hands and a resolutely contemporary look. Not only that, the brand is making this timepiece part of its Streamliner collection to create the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The fusion of two icons.

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Launched in 2020, the Streamliner collection was an immediate hit, thus enabling H. Moser & Cie. to reach new heights. Representing another facet of the Manufacture’s identity, the Streamliner was an obvious choice to serve as the showcase for the new perpetual calendar movement developed and produced by H. Moser & Cie.


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The hand-wound HMC 812 calibre has the same advantages as the HMC 341 calibre, to which a direct-drive central seconds hand has been added. A masterpiece of simplicity and ingenuity, the HMC 812 uses the indices to indicate the months via a small red and white central hand. It has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o’clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31. Aligned on the crown, the date window is positioned at an unusual angle which required the numerals to be tilted to 26°.

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The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date-change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. In constant pursuit of minimalism, the leap year indicator is located on the movement side. Visible via the sapphire case-back, the HMC 812 calibre features an ultra-contemporary finish with the traditional Moser double horizontals stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.

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The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts. This shaped watch is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 12 ATM. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an “M”, is positioned at 4 o’clock. 

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Designed as a truly sculptural piece, this case boasts harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics. It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists.

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Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides, in a nod to the traditional unusual shapes typical of Moser cases.

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Around the edge of the brand’s signature fumé dial, the red and white outer minute track measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand are reminiscent of those on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments. The manufacture has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®.

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The philosophy of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is complexity made simple. Undoubtedly the purest, most ingenious and most practical perpetual calendar on the market.

"The mechanism is absolutely brilliant–you can adjust the calendar without any risk whatsoever."
Jonas Köppel, Head of Escapement

H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.
 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  STREAMLINER Perpetual Calendar

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Reference 6812-1200, steel model, fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet


Movement
    Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre
    Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
    Height: 6.3 mm
    Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
    33 jewels

    Power reserve: minimum 168 hours
    Hacking seconds
    Double barrel
    Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
    Modular interchangeable Moser escapement
    Original Straumann® hairspring
    Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
    Screwed gold mounts
    Balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish
    Main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating

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Functions
    Hours and minutes
    Direct-drive central seconds
    Perpetual calendar with date and month
    Big date at 4 o’clock, numerals tilted to 26°
    Month indicator via red central hand
    Power reserve indicator
    Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Case
    Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
    Diameter: 42.3 mm
    Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
    Screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M”
    See-through case-back
    Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial
    Blackor fumé with sunburst pattern
    H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
    Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
    Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal
    Minute track for seconds and minutes
    Applique indices
Bracelet
    Integrated steel bracelet
    Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo
    Half-links available

Limitation: ❱❱❱  No
 

Price: USD 54,900 - CHF 49,900

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Press release - 2021
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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