Wednesday, August 11, 2021

MONTBLANC – Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Edition

 

MONTBLANCStar Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon White Gold Limited Edition 2021

The Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18 perfectly demonstrates the mastery of a classic and traditional artisanal aesthetic combined with an innovative spirit.

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The patented Suspended Exo Tourbillon complication was developed entirely in-house and required three years of development. The “Exo” is derived from the Greek for “external” or “outside” and refers to the large balance wheel which is positioned outside of the tourbillon’s rotating cage.

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The Montblanc engineers’ idea, when developing the innovative patented Suspended Exo Tourbillon, was to create a one-minute tourbillon that would be more visible, further revealing its beauty. This particular patented construction allowed them to keep a large and impressive balance wheel, eliminating the need to increase the size of the movement or the case. The massive balance wheel is raised 3.2 mm higher than the dial and appears to be floating above it. This suspended position has been made possible thanks to a dedicated tourbillon bridge with only one arm which is curved, creating a three-dimensional look and a fine watchmaking aesthetic.

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Thanks to its asymmetric construction, the alignment of the Exo Tourbillon bridge, with its solitary arm, represents a horological challenge. The complexity of the patented Exo Tourbillon comes from the dimensions of the long axis that need to be extremely precise, along with the complication construction itself, which requires that the balance’s axis must be perfectly perpendicular to the movement.

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In terms of performance, the Exo Tourbillon saves more energy than a conventional tourbillon as the cage is smaller in size and free of the weight of the balance wheel. It is also balanced by two gold pillars that equilibrate the cage. The fact that the balance is positioned outside of the rotating cage also means that it isn’t affected by the inertia of the cage.

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The large balance wheel, beating at the traditional frequency of 18’000 oscillations per hour plays an important role in the performance of the timepiece thanks to its impressive 18 screws.

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Following pure horological tradition, the Manufacture movement calibre MB M16.68 is entirely decorated in the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret with hand-crafted finishings such as Côtes de Genève stripes, inner angles, circular graining, beveling and a mirror-polished pawl with the hand-finished Minerva arrow.

The entirely polished 44.8 mm case comes in 18 K white gold and features a sapphire crystal on the case back which reveals the beauty of the hand-finished manually wound movement calibre MB M16.68. It also provides a totally transparent view of the Exo Tourbillon from the front to the back.

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The sophisticated three-dimensional dial of the Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18 is constructed in eight different parts that have been decorated entirely by hand using traditional watchmaking techniques. The base is in 18 K gold and has been highlighted with a hand-made guilloché pattern in places, and a sandblasted decoration in others, with polished steps framing the different finishing techniques. A refined guilloché pattern completes the aesthetic. A silvery-white dome at 12 o’clock, with an azuré decoration in the centre, houses the hours and minutes counter, mirroring the three-dimensional effect of the outstanding Suspended Exo Tourbillon.

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This exclusive Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is limited to 18 pieces, paying tribute to the year the Montblanc Manufacture was founded in Villeret in 1858. The timepiece comes fitted with a blue alligator leather strap and a triple folding clasp with security pushers.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL  Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18


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 Ident. 127767

Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.68
Type of movement Mechanical movement with manual winding mechanism, patented one-minute Suspended Exo Tourbillon
Dimensions Diameter = 38.30 mm; height = 10.60 mm
No. of components 218
No. of rubies 19
Power reserve Approx. 50 hours
Balance Screw balance, diameter = 14.5 mm; moment of inertia = 59 mgcm²
Frequency 18,000 A/h (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring With Phillips terminal curve
Plate Rhodium-plated German silver with circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Bridges Rhodium-plated German silver with “Côtes de Genève”, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train Faceted arms, diamond polished surfaces
Displays Off-centered hours and minutes, small second at 6 o’clock
Patented Exo Tourbillon (one revolution per minute to indicate the seconds) with one arm-bridge at 6 o’clock

Habillage
Case
18K white gold, polished case
Crystal Scratch-resistant, domed antireflective sapphire crystal on both sides
Back 18K white gold with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions Diameter = 44.8 mm ; Height = 15.03 mm
Watertightness 3 bar
Crown 18 K white gold with Montblanc emblem in mother-of-pearl
Dial
18K white, silvery-white with sandblasted finishing and aventurine,
domed hour and minute-counter with an azuré motif in the center
and an opaline decoration on the external ring, black Arabic numerals,
18K white gold leaf hour and minute-hands
Wristband
Blue Sfumato alligator-skin strap with a 18K white gold triple folding clasp


Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500

Limited Edition: 18 pieces

The retail price is 109’000 euros.

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Press releases - 2021
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Tuesday, August 10, 2021

GARRICK – S4 Timepiece 42mm Edition


GARRICKS4 Timepiece 42mm Limited Edition 2021

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The Garrick S4 is the latest creation from the British firm. It encompasses much hand-craftsmanship, manifest with its elaborate dial and yet, despite its impressive in-house content and high-quotient of hand-craftsmanship, it remains surprisingly affordable.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOS4 English made watches by Garrick Watchmakers 

For most people, mass-produced products are a default choice, purchased through necessity rather than unbridled desire. The ultimate expression of luxury is a ‘hand-crafted’ object made with time-served hands, free of concessions. Since its inception, Garrick has always tried to make many of its watch components in-house and by hand. Moreover, it has shunned cheap imports, even when this would reduce costs.

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In recent years, Garrick has shown its in-house watchmaking expertise again and again, releasing several refined timepieces. Some of these models are equipped with the firm’s exclusive movements, feature skeleton or guilloché dials and all are enriched with high-end finishing.

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However, the British firm recognises that many individuals yearn for a watch, infused with hand-craftsmanship, but offered at an affordable price. The Garrick S4, the company’s new entry-level watch, features a sumptuous dial that employs an elaborate and highly innovative construction technique.

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Whereas the mass-produced approach is to stamp a dial blank from a ribbon of brass, Garrick uses a lathe to create a brass disc. Two feet are riveted to the underside of the dial blank which ultimately unite the dial with the movement.

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The dial blank is ‘flattened’ using fine abrasive paper in order to remove any burrs or imperfections, creating a smooth surface. Thereafter, the dial is bead blasted. A chapter ring, effectively a circlet of metal, is paired with a smaller ring for the small seconds. These are then drilled, creating holes to facilitate fixing.

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The chapter ring is clamped between two plates and baked at 300°C. This hardens the metal and removes any springiness. After the chapter ring has cooled, it is ‘spun’ on a lathe, creating a motif termed ‘satiné circulaire’. Furthermore, the hour track and minute track are delineated from one another with an engraved pattern called ‘sauté piqué.

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Laser engraving is used to impart Roman numerals to the chapter ring. The resultant recesses are then inked by hand using a special syringe pen. Once the ink has dried, the chapter ring is cleaned and spun again to remove any excess ink.

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Upholding fine watchmaking practise, the Maritime hour and minute hands are heat-blued and the collet sat atop these hands is hand-polished to a brilliant conclusion. 

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The central area of the dial is frosted, while the small seconds display is suffused with an intricate hand-guilloché motif, executed on a traditional rose-engine lathe. Alternatively, the central dial area can be specified with a contrasting guilloché pattern.

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The British-made case, measuring 42mm in diameter, is made from 904L stainless. This particular grade of steel provides superior scratch resistance to the ubiquitous 316L grade as well as exhibiting a notably brilliant gleam. Alternatively, the Garrick S4 can be specified with an 18-carat gold case.

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At the heart of the Garrick S4 is a modified hand-wound ETA movement. It is rhodium-plated, features an engraved barrel and crown wheel cover. 

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Inspired by old English pocket watches, the frosted movement is equipped with a three-quarter plate and also includes a screwed balance. After the movement is tested, it is regulated, delivering a daily variance of +3 seconds.

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The watch is available with a choice of straps, including handmade alligator, calf leather or ostrich.

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While most hand-crafted items are prohibitively expensive, the Garrick S4 proves the exception, costing from £4.995 including VAT. The British brand has endeavoured to mitigate costs without compromising on quality, employing ingenious techniques without diminishing the kudos of Garrick’s costlier timepieces.

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No mass production – every Garrick timepiece is built to order in our Norfolk workshop.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  S4 Limited Edition
 
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Case
    904L Stainless Steel or Gold
    42mm Diameter
    10 mm Depth
    Sapphire crystal with AR coating
    22mm Lugs
    Exhibition case back
    Water Resistant to 100m
Dial
Hand frosted & rhodium-plated dial
Applied Breguet style chapter ring with ink-filled numerals
Hours, minutes and sub-seconds indications
Movement

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Hand-wound calibre BF03 (modified 6498) with engraved barrel and crown wheel cover
Screwed balance – tested and regulated to ensure a daily variance of +5 seconds
Rhodium-plated and hand frosted surfaces
 19 Jewels
 Hand frosted finish
Functions
 Running seconds
 Power Reserve: 45 hours
Hands
Handmade steel, grained, polished or heat blued Hours, Minutes
Strap
Handmade Alligator, calf leather, Buffalo and Ostrich.
Buckle
316L Stainless Steel pin buckle

Limited edition

Available in steel or gold.

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Press Release - 2021
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Garrick London Ltd
Contact Us
Registered office:, 108 Ashbourne Rd, Derby, DE22 3AG
+44 (0)208 819-14-60
info@garrick.co.uk
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