BVLGARI – OCTO Roma Carillon Tourbillon Edition

 BVLGARI – Masterpiece of Sound OCTO Roma Carillon Tourbillon Edition 2021

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 MASTERPIECE OF SOUND
ITALIAN DESIGN ELEVATES THE MICRO-MECHANICS OF SWISS WATCHMAKING, FOR A NEW LEVEL OF SENSORIAL EXPRESSION

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Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is once again the spotlight, proudly presenting its new Masterpiece of Sound, the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon. Designed to raise the level of sensorial expression through sound, the timepiece features a three-hammer chime combined with a tourbillon regulator: an artful Italian interpretation of Swiss watchmaking expertise that comes to life in its innovative materials and audacious design. A perfect fusion of artistry and technique, in which precision is the framework that underpins exquisite, transcendent beauty.

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Shifting the paradigm of modern-day horlogerie, Bvlgari has established itself as the Master of the Estetica della Meccanica, balancing superior savoir-faire and the innovative aesthetics of ultra-thin watches to create groundbreaking timepieces. This expression of the unique fusion between cutting-edge design and the technical expertise of Swiss watchmaking is an exercise of the highest complexity which can be seen in Bvlgari’s mastery of highly complicated watches, including the whole typology of chiming timepieces: 2, 3 and 4 hammers, from the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater to the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie.

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Thanks to its unrivalled expertise in this field, now the brand explores a new facet of its Estetica della Meccanica inspiration, creating another Sinfonia della Meccanica with the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon.

The Bvlgari Sinfonia

Expressing the intangible emotion of music with the tiniest complex mechanics is something that could only exist in the world of watchmaking. Creating the perfect, ethereal, chills-inducing chime is a complicated art, one that Bvlgari has devoted itself to, creating a masterful three-hammer chiming watch that using ultra-complex mechanisms and the innovation of a metal grid on the movement that helps to propagate sound throughout the case body.

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A Sinfonia is an orchestral interlude in a large-scale vocal work in which the maestro coordinates all the instruments. It is a triumph of precision and technique, a movement that produces an experience of resounding beauty. In creating the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, the Bvlgari master watchmaker is the maestro, choosing, finishing and assembling hundreds of micro parts to create the perfect chime. Like the orchestra conductor, he uses the strictest parameters to create something transcendent and captivating.

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It is an undertaking of utmost skill: Bvlgari chiming watches can require up to 1200 components in the case of the 4 hammers Grande Sonnerie — a true Sinfonia della Meccanica.

Parallel Passions

Music is woven into the very fabric of Italy; evoking culture and history, the country’s most famous works resonate with passions passed down over centuries. Similarly, Swiss watchmaking is a story of devotion; that single-minded pursuit of excellence that deepens over generations.

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Opera was born in Italy around the year 1600 and, to this day, Italian opera continues to dominate the genre. Works by native Italian composers of the 19th and early 20th centuries, such as Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti, Verdi and Puccini, are among the most famous operas ever written and today are performed in opera houses across the world.

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While opera was taking root in Italy, Swiss watchmaking was developing in Geneva in the second half of the 16th century. From Geneva, techniques and innovations spread over the Jura Mountains to other regions. The Swiss watch industry continued to flourish during the 19th century and, by the middle of the century, the Swiss became the world’s most important watch manufacturers.

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For five centuries, each art form has been a source of wonder, enchantment and inordinate beauty. And now, with the launch of the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, the two come together in harmony to create a true masterpiece. 

Purity and complexity

Completely manufactured in-house, the brand new manually-wound Caliber BVL428 is 8.35mm thick, and comprises a total of 432 components.

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Meeting strict criteria across a number of parameters, the construction of Caliber BVL428 has prioritized sound first and foremost. The power and clarity of the sound is a key point of quality in all striking watches, and the generous proportions of the case are designed to maximize sound propagation, allowing for increased torque of the three-hammer construction and more sound power production. In particular, the middle case is designed to maximize sound and allow it to be broadcast as much as possible.

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It features hollowings within the design to reduce the amount of metal between inside and outside, and three openings that correspond to the three chimes, to allow sound to exit from the chamber. Chimes are fixed directly on to the casebody for most effective transmission of sound and the case is crafted in titanium to ensure the clearest possible diffusion of sound. The back is also hollowed and revamped with a meticulously crafted titanium grid that protect this resonance zone and allow sound to be transmitted to the outside.

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The gongs of the watch were created by hand, in multiple stages. They are folded and formed by hand before being annealed, or hardened, at a temperature of 900 degrees, then cleaned before ironing in the oven at 500 degrees, an operation which will give the metal its crystalline resonance. Like certain components of the striking mechanism, they are lengthened with a file, so as to refine the chords of the ringing. The melodic sequence of this Carillon with three hammers sounding three tones plays the note C for the hours, the mid-re-C notes in sequence for the quarters, and the mid note for the minutes.

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The movement is equipped with one classical barrel ensuring the power reserve of at least 75 hours for the movement at full charge, meanwhile the functioning of the sound mechanism is ensured by a spring which is contained in a barrel-shaped container drilled directly in the bridge.

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The architecture of Caliber BVL428, the cut-out of the bridges and the positioning of the various components were intended to be original, contemporary and contrasting in order to reveal the beauty of the mechanism. The hammers, gongs, Tourbillon cage and perforated surfaces are crafted in alternating polished steels, while the finely-wrought mainplate and bridges have been treated with PVD. The high-tech carbon-based vacuum deposition is elegant in a modern deep black. This construction is protected by a titanium case fitted with the Carillon activation push-button on its left side.

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Available in an ultra-limited edition of 15, each exemplar is engraved, individually, with a number from 1 to 15 on the crown to indicate its singularity within the edition. The watch features a transparent sapphire crystal case-back, water-resistant to 3 Atmospheres, and comes on a black alligator leather strap with a three-blade folding clasp treated with DLC Titanium.

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 With the new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, Bvlgari adds a new sense by which to appreciate watches: hearing. It’s an impeccable expression of the Maison’s Sinfonia della Meccanica inspiration, conceived to bring the mechanics to a higher sensorial level set to the music of an exceptional caliber.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: OCTO
 
Model: OCTO Roma Carillon Tourbillon Edition

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Movement
Mechanical manufacture caliber BVL428 with manual winding,
minute repeater,
3-hammer carillon, tourbillon and a power reserve indicator;
75-hour power reserve, 21,600 VpH,
skeletonized movement with bridges in black DLC coated titanium (8,35mm thick).
Case and dial
44mm black DLC coated titanium case with matte finish;
open-worked titanium middle-case,
specially conceived to enhance sound performances;
white gold crown, set with a black ceramic insert;
white gold push button to activate the chime (case total thickness: 12,83mm).
Strap
Black rubberized alligator strap
Black DLC coated titanium 3-blade folding buckle.

Limited edition of 15 pieces.  

Price: EUR 290,000  

 

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Press Release - 2021
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ARMIN STROM – TRIBUTE 1 Edition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ARMIN STROM – TRIBUTE 1 Stainless Steel 38 Edition 2021

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Introducing the Tribute 1: a modern reinterpretation of the haute horology dress watch that’s both technically-innovative and beautifully hand-finished.

A Modern Classic

Today’s Armin Strom is heir to a long tradition of manually-wound dress watch production. The Tribute 1 revisits that history with a watch characterized by its modern aesthetics, classic proportions, technical distinction and exceptional hand-finishing.

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The Tribute 1 is offered in a classically-proportioned case measuring 38mm in diameter, with a height of just 9mm. The crown of the manual wound calibre is located at 2 o’clock, enhancing comfort while conveying an avant-garde sensibility. The lugs are intentionally slender, enhancing the elegant appearance of the timepiece.

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The distinctive dial of the Tribute 1 seems to magically transition between shades of grey in variable lighting conditions, with a particular affinity for natural light. The plate positioned adjacent to the off-center dial, is embellished with a spectacular grenage finish that adds texture to the dial. The hand polishing of the solid white gold barrel bridge, positioned to the front of the watch, requires an average of 12 hours to complete. The barrel, visible on the dial-side of the timepiece, is similarly meticulously hand-polished.

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The meticulous polishing of the hands, which were designed specifically for the Tribute 1, are also extremely time-consuming to produce. The gear train bridge on the backside is beveled and polished in 60° – a process that’s far more complex to execute than the standard approach; requiring twice as long to complete.

HOROLOGICAL DISTINCTION

In keeping with the System 78 commitment to horological distinction, the innovative motor barrel developed for the ‘Tribute 1’ is distinguished by an arbor that turns around the mainspring within the barrel itself, making it far more efficient while also conserving space.

PRICING AND AVAILABILITY

The inaugural release of the “Tribute 1” is priced at an intentionally-accessible CHF 13,900 and is limited to just 25 pieces. The Tribute 1 is further distinguished its white gold barrel bridge and a 10-year warranty, exactly double the standard warranty offered by Armin Strom.

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The barrel bridge is executed in solid white gold, a detail that is specific to this inaugural version of the Tribute 1. The ‘Tribute 1’ is contemporary, technically-innovative and beautifully finished Exceptional Haute Horology Finishing. "We believe that exceptional hand-finishing, presented in the context of a modern aesthetic design sensibility, is the key to a modern dress watch revival" said Claude Greisler, Master Watchmaker and co-founder of the revitalized Armin Strom.

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“We are the heirs to a long tradition of manually-wound dress watch design at Armin Strom. The Tribute 1 revisits that history with a watch of classical proportions that is technically-innovative and beautifully hand-finished. The ‘Tribute 1’ is my reinterpretation of the classic haute horology dress watch, adapted with a modern aesthetic sensibility.”
Claude Greisler, Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker

Exceptional Haute Horology Finishing

"We're the heirs to a long tradition of manually-wound dress watch design at Armin Strom; but like much of the rest of the market, we had moved away from that" said Greisler. "Over time, this became a source of deep regret for me - and I was ultimately inspired to do something about it. I've been obsessed with every detail of this timepiece, particularly when it comes to finishing. Hand polishing the dial-side of each barrel bridge takes over 12 hours to complete.

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To make the inaugural iteration even more special, we chose to produce that bridge in solid white gold. The gear train bridge on the backside is beveled and polished in 60° - a process that's far more complex to execute and as a result takes twice as long. The polishing of the hands that I designed for this watch was also extremely time-consuming. The barrel is hand polished and provides 100 hours of autonomous operation. The Caliber AMW21 is adorned with Côtes de Genève, the jewel sinks are polished to a gleaming conclusion and the mainplate is circular grained. The balance cock and the stepped escape wheel cock deliver a three-dimensional allure, while their edges are hand beveled to convey an overall sense of luxury."

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The "Tribute 1" is also more classic in its dimensions than any of my more recent designs," said Greisler, "with a diameter of 38mm and a height of just 9mm. The crown is located at 2 o'clock; a nod to modern design that also enhances wearer comfort."

A Contrarian Bet On A Modern Dress Watch Revival

"The 'Tribute 1' is contemporary, technically-innovative and beautifully finished. I love it - and I believe that our collectors will too." said Serge Michel, co-founder. "At a time when so many of us have spent so much time without any formal social interaction, the looming end of the global pandemic represents a symbolic return to normality - and hopefully a return to the luxury of social gatherings that we may have previously taken for granted. In that context, the acquisition of a dress watch can be seen as an expression of hope - and a meaningful connection to both the past and the future" said Michel.

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"Years ago, we were told by almost everyone that there was no economic model that could possibly justify a low-volume independent bringing all of its fabrication in-house," said co-founder Serge Michel. "The equipment is expensive and it requires a lot of physical space. We followed our passion and did it anyway. And that decision paid off. We've since come to the conclusion that following our horological passions will probably eventually make financial sense, even when we can't articulate exactly how that will play out. Fortunately, we have the luxury of taking risks and following our passion. The "Tribute 1" isn't just a manifestation of that passion, it's a 'tribute' to it. It's simultaneously our tribute to the classic haute horology dress watch, adapted with a modern aesthetic sensibility."

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The highly efficient motor barrel in the 'Tribute 1' is unusual in that the arbor turns around the mainspring within the barrel itself, which makes it more efficient while conserving space.

System 78 – A new entry to Armin Strom

“The System 78 collection  offers fine watchmaking, impeccable hand-finishing and a number of innovative horological 'firsts' while maintaining an accessible price point. Recognizing the passion for haute-horology among many that have historically been excluded from access to fine watchmaking, Armin Strom has committed itself to the consistently dedicating of a portion of its limited production capacity to democratizing access to haute horology timepieces. The collection embodies the watchmaking sensibilities of Claude Greisler and Serge Michel, co-founders of the revitalized Manufacture Armin Strom, who were both born in 1978. .

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: TRIBUTE 1

Model: Lady Beat Ref. ST20 - LAB 

Calibre AMW21

ARMIN STROM calibre AMW21
Hand-wound movement, 100-hours power reserve, off-centre time indications
Frequency: 25’200 A/h
Jewels: 21
Number of components: 135

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Technical Specifications
Distinctions
Motor-barrel
Solid white gold bridge on the dial side
10 years warranty

Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 38.00 mm
Height: 9.38 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m
Dial
Offset black or
Hands: Stainless steel with hand finishing
Strap
Delivered with a grey Alcantara calf leather strap
Buckle: Double-fold clasp in stainless steel

Limited Edition   25 pieces

Price from   13’900 CHF

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 Armin Strom: A fully integrated manufacture

While Armin Strom is a vertically integrated, complete horological manufacture, no new watch movement would ever have seen the light of day were it not for Claude Greisler, who puts ideas such as the one for the revolutionary Mirrored Force Resonance movement down on paper before they are transferred to computer-aided design programs to start modelling the movement. Like so many things at Armin Strom all of this is done in-house, with the dimensions calculated down to a precision of one micron to provide the inputs for the machines that will eventually produce the smallest of components.

At Armin Strom, the majority of components in the movement, with the exception of the escapement and balance spring, are produced in-house. Small round components like screws, pinions and gear wheels are produced by profile-turning machines, which gradually whittle away long steel or brass rods from the side to cut teeth or axles. Larger components such as base plates and bridges are produced from brass on CNC machines, which are capable of machining along multiple axes consecutively using different tools for different operations, moving the component using robotic arms.

Tiny and delicate components, such as smaller bridges, levers and springs, are produced using wire erosion. This involves threading a wire that is not much smaller than a human hair through a tiny hole in the metal. An electrical current running through the wire reacts with a solution in which the entire working plate is dipped, thus “eroding” minuscule amounts of the metal. This allows particularly delicate operations to be carried out while maintaining the structural integrity of the metal. Armin Strom does not produce any of its components by stamping because of the stresses that this places on the metal.

Once the raw components are manufactured, they are engraved, beveled, polished and decorated with circular graining or Geneva stripes by hand before moving to the in-house electroplating department. Here, all steel and brass components are first given a gold plating before a layer of nickel is added to prevent corrosion and harden the surface. After cleaning, the parts are then dipped in other electroplating baths to give them their final color such as rhodium, ruthenium, or rose gold. It is only thanks to its mastery of electroplating techniques inside its own workshops that Armin Strom can allow customers to choose preferred colors for the coating on different components.

Only then can the individual components of the movement be passed on to the watchmaker for assembly. After setting the jewels into the base plate and bridges, the watchmaker adds the gear train and mainspring. After the escapement and balance wheel are positioned, the movement finally comes to life…only to be completely disassembled, cleaned, and dried before being re-assembled and lubricated. After several days of testing the precision, the watch is finally ready.

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Press releases - 2021
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ARMIN STROM AG |
Bözingenstrasse 46
CH-2502 Biel-Bienne | Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)32 343 33 44
Fax +41 (0) 32 343 33 40
info@arminstrom.com
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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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