Thursday, May 27, 2021

CHOPARD – L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Titanium 45 Edition

 CHOPARDL.U.C Perpetual Chrono Titanium 45 Limited Edition 2021

L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono

Lightweight, versatile and precise: a very modern grand complication combining extremely accurate chronograph and perpetual calendar functions

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The combination of perpetual calendar and hand-wound chronograph has long been regarded by connoisseurs as one of the highest expressions of the watchmaker’s craft, which Chopard mastered five years ago with the presentation of its first L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece. The latter houses the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, a veritable horological marvel notable for its integration of the most prestigious chronograph and perpetual calendar achievements. 

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Carrying both “Chronometer certification” and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now transformed with a lightweight grade 5 titanium case corresponding to the lifestyle of the contemporary gentleman. Combined with an artfully pared-back aesthetic, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, produced as a limited edition of 20 pieces, offers a truly modern approach to classical Fine Watchmaking.

A lightweight and versatile material

One of very few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs on the market, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious.

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Crucially, titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is an ergonomic and comfortable watch for everyday wear, while the short lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist.

A high-precision perpetual calendar chronograph movement

The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is powered by the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, testifying to exceptional craftsmanship. This beautiful and complex mechanism was entirely developed and produced in Chopard Manufacture’s workshops and gave rise to four invention patents.

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The movement’s architecture is based on a construction reflecting the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact.

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The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset. When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision.

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Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details.

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The patented perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.

The best guarantees of excellence

Testifying to its stature among the finest feats of Fine Watchmaking, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece is doubly certified as a “Chronometer” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – denoting superior performance for accuracy and reliability under varied conditions – as well as by the Poinçon de Genève, synonymous with the highest levels of hand finishing and aesthetic quality throughout the wristwatch.

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The movement, exhibiting a multitude of opulent hand finishes across its complex plates and bridges, is visible through the watch’s display case-back.

Traditional watchmaking, contemporary style

The elegant dial features a wide, twin-aperture instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock, with indications for the days of the week, the month, position in the leap year cycle and day/night display with a large orbital moon-phase at 6 o’clock.

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This highly complex but perfectly legible dial is a work of art in itself. The slate grey surface, created via a galvanic treatment on an 18-carat gold base, is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern.

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With its subtle decoration, pared-back hour-markers and palette of soft greys with sporty bursts of red for the chronograph indications, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in grade 5 titanium offers a contemporary take on Fine Watchmaking in keeping with its lightweight casing.

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A grey strap in soft, nubuck calfskin further strengthens the sense of a Grand Complication watch that is understated and versatile, yet utterly distinct in its finesse and beauty.

25 years of excellence, innovation and tradition

In 2021, Chopard Manufacture is proud to mark the 25th anniversary of its creation in Fleurier. In 1996, when Swiss watchmaking was still emerging from the struggles of the quartz crisis, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele committed to defending and restoring the crafts and techniques that had been passed down through generations of watchmakers. 

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In the village of Fleurier, where watchmaking heritage goes back over 200 years, Chopard Manufacture would become a force for the finest techniques in traditional watchmaking, hand finishing and artistic crafts.

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At the same time, it has been able to innovate across the full range of modern watch production operations, from case-making to movement development, advanced metallurgy and component manufacture. In particular, it has put chronometry – the ultimate measure of horological excellence – at the heart of all its activities.

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It is thanks to this thriving hub of unique skills, and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s vision of what a modern Fine Watchmaking Manufacture could be, that Chopard has been able to create timepieces that are truly valued by connoisseurs – gentlemen who recognise that passion and artistry will combine to create extraordinary masterpieces.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection : L.U.C

Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Titanium 45 Edition


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Ref. 168611-3001 – in grade 5 titanium fitted with a grey nubuck calfskin strap
Numbered 20-piece limited edition 

Case:
Grade 5 titanium
Total diameter 45 mm
Thickness 15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Titanium crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Titanium pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and case-back
Exhibition case-back
Movement:

Mechanical movement with manual winding L.U.C 03.10-L
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Number of components 452
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 42
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve approx. 60 hours

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Perpetual calendar – patented mechanism
Integrated column-wheel chronograph
Patented return-to-zero device with pivoting hammers and elastic arm
Patented chronograph seconds hand return-to-zero system
Patented vertical clutch device
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève
Dial and hands:
Black rhodium-toned and hand-guilloché solid gold dial, with beams radiating from the
date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – Red and black transfers
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Chronograph and perpetual calendar function counters obtained by black rhodium-
based galvanic treatment and ruthenium-treated appliques
Snailed-finish day/night and leap-year counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hands for the small seconds as well as the day and month calendar indications
Rhodium-plated triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year calendar indications
Rhodium-plated red-tipped Dauphine-type hands for the chronograph hours and minutes counters
Baton-type red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minutes track with white and red details
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes

  • Small seconds at 6 o’clock
  • Instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock
  • Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
  • Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture at 6 o’clock
  • Off-centred day/night display at 10 o’clock and off-centred leap-year display at 2 o’clock
  • Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
  • 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
  • 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with semi-instantaneous minutes display
Stop-seconds function
Strap and clasp:
Hand-sewn grey nubuck calfskin strap with nubuck lining and tone-on-tone stitching
Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium

 

Limited to Only 20-Pieces

Price  USD $ 32,300

 

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Press Release - 2021
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Wednesday, May 26, 2021

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay Ceramic

TUDORHERITAGE Black Bay Ceramic 41 mm Chronometer - 2021

BLACK BAY CERAMIC

TUDOR is launching the Black Bay Ceramic model, an extraordinary watch and symbol of the brand's technical expertise, with a case in matt black ceramic, a Manufacture Calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS. 

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The Black Bay Ceramic is a prime example of TUDOR's expert command of one of the industry's most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, this Black Bay model is the epitome of high-tech aesthetic language. Its matt black ceramic elements and black Manufacture Calibre accentuate the Black Bay Ceramic’s outstanding performance.

KEY POINTS

41 mm diameter case in matt black ceramic
Domed dial, matt black, with applied hour markers
“Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR diving watches introduced in 1969, with grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve
Master Chronometer certification
Five-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

TUDOR QUALITY

TUDOR has successfully submitted its Black Bay Ceramic model for tests to obtain a Master Chronometer certification as part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products. This is the first application of this standard to a watch in the TUDOR collection. 

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This certification, which requires a substantial number of changes to the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre, will mean that TUDOR will be able to offer accreditation by an independent body, confirming the excellent quality of its watches.

COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS

METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 +6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR's internal standard, which is applied to the brand's models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4).  

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The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees that the waterproof capability claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 22810:2010, as does the power reserve of each Master Chronometer watch. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR METAS CERTIFICATION

All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay Ceramic has achieved, are summarised below:

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  • Swiss Made
  • Certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
  • Precision at two temperatures, in six different positions and at two different levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
  • Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
  • Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) in accordance with ISO standard 22810:2010
  • 70-hour power reserve

HIGH-TECH LOOK

Aesthetically, the TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic combines contemporary, high-tech details with subtle references to its significant heritage. Its matt black monobloc ceramic case has sand-blasted surfaces with bevelled edges, mirror-polished for a striking contrast, and is finished with very pronounced lines. The insert of its rotatable bezel is also in black ceramic with a sunray satin finish.

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The engraved graduations in matching tones offer a complementary additional matt detail, which responds subtly to changes in light. Its dial is also black on black, the only contrast being its applied hour markers with off-white luminescent material. Finally, a hybrid leather and rubber strap, black of course, with a "Snowflake" motif on the inside and folding clasp, as well as a complimentary black fabric strap with cream band completes the stealthy black look of this model.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602-1U

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U, which powers the Black Bay Ceramic, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres but is entirely in black, in line with the general appearance of the watch, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor in black tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

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Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision, as is its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixing. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0 +5).

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture MT5602-1U Calibre is "weekend-proof"; that is to say, it has been certified for 70 hours by METAS, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay range, the Ceramic adopts TUDOR's characteristic angular hands known as "Snowflake" that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic.

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Resolutely anchored in the present, it brings together almost seven decades of TUDOR diving watches. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques and its robustness, reliability, durability and precision as well as the quality of its finish are above modern industry standards.

TUDOR DIVING WATCHES

The history of TUDOR diving watches dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft), it was the firstborn in a long line of "divers". Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it represented the philosophy of a tool-watch of the brand. The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of this TUDOR diving watch and those that have gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. 

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR continues to produce the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR is offering a five-year guarantee on all its products sold after 1 January 2020. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered, or any maintenance checks, and it is transferable. All TUDOR products bought between 1 July 2018 and 31 December 2019 will benefit from an 18-month extension to their original guarantee. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.

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ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with refined aesthetics, proven reliability and unique value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when "The Tudor" was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He created the Montres TUDOR SA Company in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered mechanical manufacture movements with multiple functions and superior performance.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Black Bay Ceramic

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REFERENCE 79210CNU

CASE
41 mm matt black ceramic case with micro-blasted finish and monobloc middle case
Open case back in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with sapphire crystal
BEZEL
Unidirectional rotatable bezel in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with 60-minute graduated disc in black ceramic with sunray satin finish and engraved markings and numerals
WINDING CROWN
Screw-down winding crown in black-PVD-treated 316L steel, with the TUDOR rose in relief and circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 

CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U 
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  6.5 mm
JEWELS  25 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
DIAL
Black, domed
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Hybrid leather and rubber strap with 316L steel folding clasp and safety catch in black PVD-treated 316L steel
Additional black fabric strap with cream band and black PVD-treated 316L steel buckle, included in the box


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Press Release - 2021
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