Wednesday, May 12, 2021

GREUBEL FORSEY – GMT Sport Tourbillon Red Gold Edition

GREUBEL FORSEYGMT Sport Tourbillon Red Gold Edition - 2021

GMT SPORT:
GOING FOR RED GOLD

The GMT Sport returns in a new rendition in 5N red gold, bestowing upon this exceptional creation a delicate balance of nobility and strength of character.

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This limited edition is a spectacular evolution that just 11 collectors will have the opportunity to discover first hand.

AN ERGONOMIC TIMEPIECE
DRAPED IN RED GOLD

For this new creation, Greubel Forsey has once again taken on a daring challenge, that of a pow-erful aesthetic statement: a design predominantly in red gold that, for the first time, adorns the case and the globe. Greubel Forsey is stepping off the beaten track by unveiling a new, ultra-­ contemporary and ergonomic timepiece with a strong and noble character developed by the use of red gold, covering not only the case but also one of its most essential components.

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The case, with its unique profile, is another particularity of the GMT Sport, and the key to its ergonomic wear. For an immediately eye-catching design, Greubel Forsey has chosen to construct the caseband from titanium, a material renowned for its light weight and resistance to impacts and scratches. This red gold/titanium combination appears on the crown, pushers and folding clasp.

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The case naturally hugs the shape of any wrist thanks to its totally integrated strap. The case back rests on the wrist while the vanishing lines of the case provide a perfect transition into the strap. As for the dial side, the GMT Sport’s bezel further enhances its natural curvature thanks to its elliptical shape, which is especially delicate to produce, all while making sure that the sapphire crystal follows with as much rigour as fluidity.

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The red gold really makes the case shine, illu- minating it with new brilliance. This new livery emphasises the red gold’s warm tones which are enhanced by darker elements such as the hands, bridges, GMT dial display and strap. This combination provides unprecedented contrast and perfect readability of the dial’s indications: a central hours and minutes, second time zone at 10 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and globe at 8 o’clock.

BACK TO THE ROOTS

This creation is also available with a blue globe, a nod to the very first GMT Sport, unveiled two years ago and which is now completely sold out. This exclusive combination pairs an ultra-contemporary movement with an ultra-ergonomic case, fitted to the wrist with a rubber strap. This edition will also be limited to 11 pieces.

 THE WORLD AT YOUR WRIST — AND IN REAL TIME

Together, these two variations offer a new means of expression for two flagship Greubel Forsey complications. Their 3rd invention, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes is positioned between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock. With its cage inclined at a 25° angle and completing a full rotation in 24 seconds, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes provides superior chronometric performance – in addition to the truly unique visual effect. 

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Then, the terrestrial globe placed between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock. More than any other, it embodies the three-dimensional time display championed by Greubel Forsey. Thanks to this invention which executes a complete rotation in 24 hours, universal time can be read easily, quickly and intuitively.

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Seen from above the 🌏 North Pole, a ring with 24- hour markings allows the local time to be read for all longitudes while also acting as a day/night indication. On the caseback side, a disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 rings allows the wearer to read UTC Universal and Summer Time for 24 cities in 24 major time zones. It also distinguishes those time zones applying summer time (on a light background) from those who don’t (on a dark background).

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The new GMT Sport – a bold aesthetic choice from the Atelier, signed Greubel Forsey.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: GMT Sport

In 5N red gold
Limited edition

Hand-wound movement with 3 patents *Patents pending

  •     GMT
  •     2nd time zone
  •     rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night
  •     universal time on 24 time zones
  •     summer and winter time
  •     cities observing summer time
  •     GMT and Earth pushers 
  •     Tourbillon 24 Secondes
  •     hours and minutes
  •     small seconds
  •     power-reserve
Movement
Dimensions
• Diameter: 36.90 mm
• Thickness: 13.18 mm
Number of parts
• Movement: 435
parts
• Tourbillon cage: 88 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.38
g
Number of jewels
63

• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Chronometric power reserve • 72 hours
Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel • Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws
(10 mm diameter)
Frequency • 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Bridges and main plate

• Titanium
• Frosted and spotted, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
• Multi-level, suspended-arch bridge, polished with black treatment in relief, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks
• Flat black polished tourbillon bridge with black treatment in relief, spotted, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks
Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and on escape wheel pinion
• Inclined gear and profiled teeth on intermediate wheels of the set-hands mechanism.
Displays
  • Hours and minutes, on suspended-arch bridge
  • Small seconds on disc
  • 72-hours power reserve on a sector
  • 24-seconds tourbillon rotation
  • Rotating titanium globe with universal time
  • Day-and-night
  • 2 nd time zone GMT
Movement side
• 24 time zones universal time
• Summer time
Exterior
Case
• 18k 5N red gold with curved synthetic sapphire crystal
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel with raised engraved text
• Profiled lugs, screwed fixing
• Engraved pushers
• Transparent back with high domed synthetic sapphire crystal
• Titanium security screws
• Raised engraving “GMT Sport” and “Greubel Forsey
Case dimensions
• Caseband diameter: 42.00 mm
• Bezel diameter: 45.00 mm
• Case height: 15.70 mm
• Height on synthetic sapphire crystals: 17.80 mm
Water resistance of the case
• Water-resistant 10 atm – 100 m – 328 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown
• In 18k 5N red gold, titanium and rubber with GF logo
• Colour-coded rubber capping, interchangeable
Dial side

• Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring, with luminescent hours and minutes indexes
• GMT indicator with raised engraving
• Power-reserve indicator, engraved and lacquered
• Tourbillon rotation indicator in gold
• Rotating globe with fixed day-and-night UTC indicator in synthetic sapphire, engraved and lacquered
Movement side
• Synthetic sapphire disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 rings (UTC engraved on the case / Summer time engraved on a gold movement plate, lacquered and hand matt-lapped)
• “Summer time” plate with limitation number, raised engraving, hand matt lapped
Hands
• Hours and minutes, curved profile, polished steel, black treatment with Super-Luminova
• 2nd time zone GMT indicator, grey triangle
• Small seconds, fixed red triangle
• Power-reserve indicator, in polished steel
• Aluminium 24-seconds double-tipped hand, black treatmen
Strap and clasp
• Rubber with text in relief
• 18k 5N red gold and titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo

Price
480’000 Swiss Francs (without VAT), first pieces will be delivered this year.

Unique edition
Limited Edition of 11 pieces.


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Press Release - 2021
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GREUBEL FORSEY SA
For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 
2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
+41 32 925-4545
+41 32 925-4502
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Tuesday, May 11, 2021

ANGELUS – U30 Black Titanium Edition

 ANGELUS URBAN U30 Black Titanium 47 Tourbillon Rattrapante Edition 2021

Offered up on the altar of the grande complication, the Angelus U30 Black Titanium is a piece like no other. Ultra-light and ultra-sporty, the incredible Angelus design unites a variety of prestigious complications: a tourbillon, flyback and split-second chronograph. The 47mm black DLC titanium case with openworked edges houses one of the most complex automatic skeletonized movements in the world. In the U30, nothing has been sacrificed in the expression of Angelus’ extreme watchmaking approach.

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The Angelus U30 is a beast in the etymological sense. If it is held up as an exemplar, it is because it is one-of-a-kind – pointed out to stress its exceptional complexity. The Angelus U30 is a talking point, because this skeletonized, automatic tourbillon, flyback and split-second chronograph with power reserve indicator is quite simply unique. Angelus has not shied away from any technical challenges. 100% independently manufactured, the result is a watch that defies categorisation.

Distinctive

The Angelus U30 is also a beast in a figurative sense. It is a mythical creature, a mean machine: an exceptional piece both in performance and design. The spacious skeletonized structure encompasses the case, movement and hands.

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The case, 47mm in diameter and 15mm thick, is made of black DLC titanium. The lugs and case middle are marked in the centre with a recess that extends the skeletizing of the movement. 

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The openworked movement has 350 components in total, is treated with black DLC and accentuated in grey. The design is an expression of Angelus’ own brand of hyper-technicality; it is the supreme sportiness of an ultra-light split-second chronograph. One-of-a-kind mean machine.

Functional

The split-second function allows the central chronograph second hand to be split in two, allowing two events starting together to be timed. At any moment, the same pusher can bring the two hands back together to the same point. A flyback also allows you to reset and restart timing with a single press, without having to stop and reset the hands.

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This exceptional feature does not compromise the lines of the Angelus U30: the split-second pusher is integrated into the crown at three o’clock, barely protruding from the case. Similarly, the chronograph’s start and reset pushers are very discreet, integrated into the overall line of the Angelus U30’s black titanium case middle. The pushers have a short trajectory, requiring up-front design work and adjustment to a degree rarely achieved in watchmaking.

Uncompromising

It is hard to imagine a complication as sophisticated as the split-second function. The movements capable of achieving this complication can be counted on the fingers of two hands – and for the skeletonized version, far fewer. 

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Angelus has built its modern identity on openworked pieces integrated into spacious structures that bring the surface area down to the absolute minimum. Here, the A-150 calibre has depth. The hand fitting, bridges, cog and column wheels, patina and rotor create a rich texture of levels for the eye to get lost in.

Unique

Chronograph calibres are rarely integrated. They are often made up of a basic calibre and an additional functional module. But Angelus does not subscribe to this approach, instead developing its calibres as a unified system. Split-second chronographs are often manual. The Angelus U30 prefers a sportier, active, technical approach for this extremely rare complication, opting instead for self-winding by a large rotor. 

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Split-second chronographs are hardly ever matched with a flyback. Such a combination is so complex that the watchmaking community is often unaware that it is even possible. The A-150 calibre is capable of such a feat.

Dual

Few chronographs also have a power reserve indicator. The traditional display layout leaves little room for an additional gauge. Angelus has placed the indicator at half past seven on the dial, using a subtle asymmetric layout. Tourbillon chronographs are anomalies, and tourbillon rattrapantes are even more unique. 

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But for Angelus, integrating a rotary regulating organ into the dense and intense A-150 calibre has posed no problem. In fact, combining chronometer and chronograph, measuring precision times and short times is a logical choice for the Angelus U30.

Refined

When it comes to the Angelus U30’s design, structure, decoration, functionality and complications, all of these choices are based on an almost unparalleled level of expertise and independence. The Angelus A-150 calibre has been entirely developed, machined, decorated, assembled, adjusted and fitted on the Angelus manufacturing site in La Chaux-de-Fonds. 

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This exclusive movement has been designed with exceptional mechanical and graphic detail in mind. The structure and functions form a coherent whole, highlighting the complications and design of their components. In turn, these high-precision micromechanical watchmaking parts have been integrated into a watch with the powerful design of a thoroughbred designated as an exemplar.

 

ANGELUS  History

The story of Angelus began in 1891 when brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz founded the Angelus fabrique d’horlogerie in Le Locle, Switzerland. The company quickly became renowned for developing and manufacturing pioneering movements and timepieces, both for itself and for other brands. Over the past century, Angelus earned an illustrious reputation for creating exceptional chronograph and multi-complication wristwatches, multi-display travel clocks with long power reserves, and alarm watches. Along the way, Angelus achieved a number of watchmaking world-firsts, including the first wristwatch with big date, first series wristwatch chronograph with calendar, first wristwatch with alarm and date, first automatic repeater wristwatch, and first fully waterproof repeater wristwatch.

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Angelus
brand proudly carries a long tradition in innovative chronograph wristwatches: this history of manufacture chronographs for the wrist began in 1925 with a monopusher. The company's first highlight was the 1942 launch of the Chronodato, the world's first serially manufactured chronograph with calendar. Throughout subsequent decades, Angelus released ever more groundbreaking chronographs, many of them including world-first complications.

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 Steel Chornograph Angelus
1940s Fine, large, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, register and tachometer.
© ANGELUS SA


Along with many other prestigious brands, Angelus found it difficult to compete with the arrival of quartz watches in the 1970s and the company ceased operations in the early 1980s. After lying dormant for 30 years, Angelus has now been revived by new management who have spent three years developing the next generation of visionary timepieces, the first of which is the U10 Tourbillon Lumière, which was followed up by the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon. All models have been developed at the Angelus manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, just a stone’s throw from where the Stolz brothers established their original fabrique.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection

 Model:  U30 Black Titanium Tourbillon Rattrapante 

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Reference:  0CRBT.B01A.K003N

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, tourbillon, fly-back double column wheel chronograph, split-seconds
(rattrapante), power reserve indicator
Movement
Calibre: A-150, mechanical self-winding tourbillon split-seconds chronograph
Complications: One-minute tourbillon, fly-back chronograph, split-seconds, power reserve indicator
Finish
  • platinum: NAC anthracite coated
  • bridges: black ADLC-coated, polished and chamfered
  • column wheels: black ADLC-coated and mirror polished
  • tourbillon cage: polished and hand-chamfered
  • rotor: 22-carat white gold segment, black ADLC coated sections

Jewels: 38
Diameter: 37.60 mm
Height: 9.35 mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Balance wheel: Black gold-treated copper-beryllium
Escapement: Swiss lever
Regulated: Set to 5 positions
Gear train: Wheels with exclusive Angelus six-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Screws: Angelus three-point design torque-optimizing heads
Main plate and automatic bridge: Grey NAC-treated to maximize contrast and depth
Upper bridges: Black ADLC-treated
Column wheels: Black ADLC-treated and mirror-polished. Both the split-seconds’ column wheel on the dial side and chronograph column wheel on the back are visible
Tourbillon cage: Hand-chamfered and hand-polished. Black ADLC-treated second pointer
Movement finishing: Chamfered and polished edges, flat surfaces either satin-finished or sandblasted
Rotor: Black ADLC-treated with solid 22-karat white gold segment
Dial
Chapter ring: Hours, minutes and chronograph seconds markers
Counters: 30-minute counter laser engraved onto the upper chronograph bridge and rhodium treated. Power reserve indicator laser engraved onto the power reserve bridge, rhodium treated and filled with green and red lacquer
Hands: Skeletonized, sand-blasted with polished top hour and minute hands, sandblasted chronograph second hand with red tip, satin-finished split-seconds hand, sand-blasted with polished top power reserve hand, polished 30-minute counter hand with red line
Case
Material: Grade 5 black DLC coated titanium
Diameter: 47 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting, split-seconds pusher integrated in the crown
Back: Transparent
Distance between lugs: 22 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100 ft / 3 atm
Crystals: Box sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Strap and buckle
Material: Black stealth alligator with titanium insert or rubber
Length range: 70 mm to 125 mm
Width: 22 / 20 mm
Buckle: Titanium, folding buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference number
Limited Edition 5 pieces

Worldwide retail price
CHF 66,700 before tax (subject to change)

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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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