Blancpain – Métiers d’Art Boutique Edition for Taiwan 2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BLANCPAIN – Métiers d’Art Shakudō and Métiers d’Art Porcelaine Gold Boutique Edition for Taiwan 2020

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 Formosa clouded leopard: two Métiers d'Art models in a Boutique edition for Taiwan

With its Métiers d'Art collection, the Manufacture Blancpain offers a journey through cultures. Its openness to the world gives rise to unique creations in which watchmaking excellence and artistic expertise come together in praise of Nature. Today, Blancpain sets sail for Taiwan by dedicating two individual models to one of the wonders of the animal kingdom bound up with the island's history: the Formosa clouded leopard. 

The Formosa clouded leopard, endemic to the island, is an important symbol in the collective consciousness of the Taiwanese. The Paiwan aboriginal people consider the leopard to be a spiritual icon. If not extinct, the animal is extremely rare. Blancpain had a wish to represent this emblematic feline by drawing on its expertise in the realm of hand decoration.

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Like the Formosa clouded leopard, the artistic techniques practiced by Blancpain are rare in watchmaking. Some, such as miniature enamel painting, are only offered by a handful of watch companies worldwide. Others, such as shakudō, are produced exclusively by the Manufacture. The range of Blancpain's craftsmanship is vast and represents an age-old heritage. 

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Five skills, fully integrated within the Métiers d'Art workshops at the "Farm" in Le Brassus – as is always the case at Blancpain – have been selected to interpret the theme of the Taiwanese clouded leopard on the dial: the art of porcelain, miniature enamel painting, shakudō, engraving and damascening. The two one-of-a-kind models resulting from the meticulous work of Blancpain artisans represent the clouded leopard in its forest habitat. A skilled acrobat, this animal enjoys hiding in the trees. Trunks and foliage have been patiently painted or hand-carved in minute detail. The same naturally applies to the majestic feline.

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Also crafted using the enamel painting on porcelain and engraving techniques, along with shakudō, its tawny coat with spots reminiscent of clouds is strikingly realistic. On the engraved model, the craftsmen of the Manufacture have gone so far as to inlay the panther's whiskers hair by hair, made of gold threads almost as fine as a silk ribbon, in accordance with the art of damascening. The dials thus executed come to life beneath the artist's fingers, giving rise to the kind of emotions that stem from blending aesthetics with technical perfection.

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The Formosa clouded leopard enamel painted on porcelain is framed by a 33 mm white gold case with a diamond-set bezel. The accompanying movement is the Manufacture 1154 self-winding calibre, whose meticulous finishing is revealed through the back of the timepiece. The engraved and damascened shakudō model comes in a 45 mm red gold case. Traditionally favoured for highly decorative timepieces, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the 15B hand-wound movement adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif.

The art of porcelain and miniature enamel painting

Miniature enamel painting is one of the numerous enamelling techniques carried out by the Blancpain Manufacture's artisans in the Le Brassus "Farm". The process of bringing painted enamel to a watch dial is particularly complex and begins with the fabrication of a surface for the painting. Blancpain's enamel dials are elaborated following a series of steps punctuated by long drying and firing phases. Presented in the form of a powder mainly composed of quartz, feldspar and kaolin, porcelain is first diluted in water. The resulting pulp is sieved and filtered to remove all residues and impurities, prior to being cast in dial-shaped molds.

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After demolding, the dials are dried for 24 hours before being fired at 1,000°C for 24 hours. This first step in the kiln hardens the dials and prepares them for enameling. Rigorously applied by hand to each dial, the enamel requires a second 24-hour firing at 1,300°C that serves to vitrify the porcelain and make it shiny, translucent and enduringly stable. Before any paintbrush touches the prepared surface of the dial, the artisans draw sketched studies of the image to be created. Often multiple trials are evaluated. Blancpain's craftsmen are looking for balance, not only with respect to the design itself, but also with regard to the way in which that design relates to other elements on the dial. Once the layout of the design has been decided, the next step is the preparation of the colors.

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The substance, based on enamel powder, is mixed to pine oil. The enamel painter makes his own palette in order to obtain the nuances that he needs. Certain shades originate from special recipes confected by Blancpain. Once the colors have been readied, the actual painting can begin. Due to the small scale of a watch dial, artisans work with staggeringly fine brushes. Since the colors are enamel themselves, the painting must be followed by oven firing at a temperature of 1200°C. Each resulting dial is therefore unique, ensuring owners of an enamel painted porcelain Blancpain watch possess a one-piece only model.

Engraved and shakudō damascening dials

Shakudō is a centuries old Japanese art form favored by samurai to embellish small elements of their katana. Blancpain’s artisans use it to create one of- a-kind watch dials. The introduction of this craft in watchmaking emanates from the Manufacture's innovative spirit, which constantly looks for new artistic techniques and unique decorative patterns matching its timepieces.

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Shakudō itself is a technique that transforms the color of a gold/copper alloy from its natural yellow/orange hue to a subtle nuanced black/gray. Often, the surface is reworked to bring complexity and texture to the black/gray color. At its most basic, the alloy, used in the form of a disk for the watch dial, is submerged in a warm chemical bath, composed of copper acetate (greyish green) named rokushō, until the desired color is achieved.

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This ancestral know-how lies on a trial and error process even in its most basic form. The disk is plucked repeatedly from the bath, rinsed and color examined, before re-emersion. When the artist reaches a perfect hue, the shakudō itself is finished. Although the chemical bath process lies at the center of this art, Blancpain associates it with additional artistic techniques such as engraving, damascening, and carving.

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Not only that, but the shakudō process is often repeated at various stages of the work to bring extra hues and depth to the designs brought onto the disk of the dial. Each Blancpain shakudō dial is unique, and this uniqueness runs deeper than artistic variation in carrying out coloring and engraving. Each particular design represents a special and one-unit piece, since no two designs will be the same. The dial featuring the Formosa clouded leopard is a perfect example. The work on creating such a timepiece begins with a paper sketch of the pose and the background decorations. The image of the leopard, along with other foreground elements, takes the form of a gold applique hand-engraved thanks to extremely precise tools.

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These appliques are also dipped in different salt baths to obtain the desired color effects, like the spots that adorn the feline's fur. They are applied to the surface of the dial and held in place by very fine pins, which are inserted into holes preliminary drilled into the dial. The back of the pins are thereafter carefully hammered to ensure that they will remain securely nestled in place.  Historically, many shakudō objects were decorated with damascening. This ancient art form consists of carving designs into a surface in the form of a trough, and thereafter hammering soft gold into the trough. As tradition dictates, no glue is use. The hammering process suffices to fix the gold filaments in place, which are then polished smooth. Blancpain's creations combining shakudō, engraving and damascening highlight the Manufacture's uniqueness in the watchmaking world. Blancpain is in fact the sole Maison to propose this marriage of artistic crafts.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Métiers d’Art 

 
Model: Métiers d’Art Porcelaine Enamel Edition

References:  6124-1919-55B - White Gold 33.20

Case
1 rang de diamants · 18ct white gold
Diameter:     33.20 mm 
Thickness:     9.15 mm
Water resistance:     3.00 bar
Between horns:     18.00 mm
Sapphire back
Engraved on the - "Unique Piece"
Dial
Porcelain dial with enamel painting
Hand-decorated and engraved gold-damascened Shakudō dial
Movement
Calibre 1154
Reference:   1154
Ultra-slim self-winding
Power-reserve indication on the bridge side
Balance frequency: 28,800 a/h or 4 hertz
Calibre thickness:  3.25 mm
Calibre diameter:  27.40 mm
Power reserve in hours:  100
Jewels:  28
Free sprung balance with gold regulation screws
Components:     190
Strap/Bracelet
Alligator lined with alzavel
Blue color strap
Gold folding clasp with logo

EDITION
Boutique exclusive model for Taiwan
Limited Edition - Unique pieces

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Métiers d’Art 

 
Model: Métiers d’Art Shakudō Engraved Edition

References:  6615-3616-55B - Red Gold 45

Case
1 rang de diamants · 18ct red gold

Diameter:     45.00 mm 
Thickness:     8.30 mm
Water resistance:     3.00 bar
Between horns:     18.00 mm
Sapphire back
Engraved on the - "Unique Piece"
Dial
Hand-decorated and engraved gold-damascened Shakudō dial
Shakudō, engraving and damascening
Movement
Calibre 15B
Reference:   15B
Ultra-slim hand-wound
Power-reserve indication on the bridge side
Balance frequency: 18,000 a/h or 3 hertz
Calibre thickness:  2.20 mm
Calibre diameter:  36.10 mm
Power reserve in hours:  40
Jewels:  20
Components:     117
Strap/Bracelet
Alligator lined with alzavel
Brown color strap
Gold folding clasp with logo

EDITION
Boutique exclusive model for Taiwan
Limited Edition - Unique pieces

*Each bar corresponds to a 10-metre water column.
Alligator leather straps - origin : Mississippiensis Métiers d’Art
Blancpain reserves the right to modify this model and its technical characteristics

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Press release - 2020
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Blancpain S.A.
Le Rocher 12
1348 Le Brassus
Suisse
International PR: Aude Rosati
Tel.  (+41) 21 796 3636
Fax (+41) 21 796 3637
E-mail: pr@blancpain.com
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www.Blancpain.com

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMETRE FB 2RE Unique Edition GPHG 2020

 FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE Gold 44mm Unique Edition Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2020

 HONOURED AT THE GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE, FERDINAND BERTHOUD RECEIVES THE CHRONOMETRY PRIZE FOR THE SECOND CONSECUTIVE YEAR

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RELIABILITY AND ACCURACY. TWO ESSENTIAL VALUES THAT HAVE BEEN GUIDING THE CREATIONS OF chronomÉtrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SINCE THE LAUNCH OF THE FIRST COLLECTIONS FIVE YEARS AGO.

THE NEW chronomÈtre FB 2RE IS NO EXCEPTION AND THIS RESULT OF LONG YEARS OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT HAS ALREADY BEEN REWARDED WITH TWO INTERNATIONAL PRIZES: REVOLUTION MAGAZINE’S BEST COMPLICATION PRIZE; AND THE CHRONOMETry PRIZE AT THE 2020 GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE (GPHG).

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After being tested for 12 months at sea in 1768-1769, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Marine Clocks No. 6 and No. 8 still served to calculate longitude to within a mere 1/8° margin of error.

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From then on, the time-measuring instruments created by Ferdinand Berthoud became benchmarks in terms of reliability and precision, leading him to be granted the role of "Clockmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy" in the spring of 1770.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Two hundred and fifty years later, inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud's Marine Clock No. 6, the FB 2RE collection is in turn rewarded for the ingenuity and performance of its original movement, combining a remontoir d’égalité mechanism with fusee-and-chain transmission. Already honoured with the title of "Best Complication" prize by Revolution magazine, the Chronometry prize awarded at the 2020 edition of the GPHG now adds to the list of honours garnered by the Chronomètre FB 2RE.  This collection redefines the modern conception of a chronometer, in accordance with the most demanding criteria of quality and precision that have guided the Manufacture's choices since its beginnings.

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Since its launch in August 2020, the FB 2RE collection has elicited considerable enthusiasm among collectors and watchmaking professionals. Five years after the unveiling of the first FB 1 collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE stands out on both aesthetic and technical levels. Its round case houses an original movement combining the emblematic fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir d’égalité, serving to provide a natural deadbeat seconds display on a Grand Feu enamel dial.

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“We wanted to develop a genuine wrist chronometer," says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Above and beyond the design, embodying a contemporary expression of Ferdinand Berthoud's Marine Clock No. 6, the technique is unprecedented: it is an authentic feat and the combination of fusee-and-chain transmission with a remontoir d’égalité really improves precision.”

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Tested by two independent laboratories – first for 15 days at the COSC and then, once cased-up, for 50 hours on the Fleuritest simulator –, the Chronomètre FB 2RE achieves outstanding chronometric performance, while operating at a low frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Throughout the power reserve, the readings taken deviate by less than 0.5 seconds on average from the optical reference measurement of the GPS clock. The FB 2RE model therefore shows very little difference between its respective first and last minutes of operation under test conditions, reproducing the movements of a watch on the wrist during the course of a typical day.

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Karl-Friedrich Scheufele comments: “We wish to offer demanding collectors the very best by introducing modern timepieces acknowledged for their reliability and accuracy. In the space of five years, we have received no less than ten international awards, including three at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This represents recognition for the work accomplished so far by all our teams. It allows us to establish ourselves in the field of Chronometry in a sustainable manner and encourages us to persevere along this path.”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE Gold Edition

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MOVEMENT
• Calibre FB-RE.FC: mechanical movement with manual winding, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and remontoir d’égalité
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     37.30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9.37 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    16 ½
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     58
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     18 000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    50 hours

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   

• Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
     Suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
     Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
• Regulating organ
     Ferdinand Berthoud two-spoke variable-inertia balance with four inertia blocks
     Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillippe outer terminal curve (overcoil)
     Swiss lever escapement
     15-tooth escape-wheel
• Remontoire mechanism
     One-second remontoire
     Three-tooth stop wheel
     Hand-crafted triple-faced synthetic ruby cam
     Flat hairspring (steel alloy)

Components . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     1,200 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    790 components
Length of the chain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     285 mm
Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     26
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . .     10

DECORATIONS
• Nickel silver bridges with frosting-type finishing, secured to stylised steel pillars
• Engraved and black-varnished power-reserve indication on the back of the movement 
• Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

• Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

FUNCTIONS
• Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve on the back of the movement, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance

• REF. FB 2RE.1
• 10-PIECE LIMITED NUMBERED EDITION IN 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat ethical non-rhodium-plated white gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock. Jhoi – jhouh
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1/10 to 10/10

• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat white gold, with black ceramic medallion
• Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glareproofed on both sides
• Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Split-level dial in white grand feu enamel, black grand feu enamel hours & minutes track
• Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in black grand feu enamel
HANDS
• Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in CVD-blued 18-carat gold
• Central seconds hand in CVD-blued titanium
• Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement
STRAP AND. BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

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• REF. FB 2RE.2
• 10-PIECE LIMITED NUMBERED EDITION IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat ethical rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock.
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1/10 to 10/10

• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat rose gold, with black ceramic medallion
• Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat rose gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glareproofed on both sides
• Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Split-level dial in black grand feu enamel, white grand feu enamel hours & minutes track
• Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in white grand feu enamel
HANDS
• Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in 18-carat rose gold
• Central seconds hand in gilded titanium
• Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement
STRAP AND. BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle – Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request


Limitation  Only 10 pieces of each version watches

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Press Release - 2020
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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