Wednesday, November 18, 2020

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMETRE FB 2RE Unique Edition GPHG 2020

 FERDINAND BERTHOUDCHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE Gold 44mm Unique Edition Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2020

 HONOURED AT THE GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE, FERDINAND BERTHOUD RECEIVES THE CHRONOMETRY PRIZE FOR THE SECOND CONSECUTIVE YEAR

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RELIABILITY AND ACCURACY. TWO ESSENTIAL VALUES THAT HAVE BEEN GUIDING THE CREATIONS OF chronomÉtrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SINCE THE LAUNCH OF THE FIRST COLLECTIONS FIVE YEARS AGO.

THE NEW chronomÈtre FB 2RE IS NO EXCEPTION AND THIS RESULT OF LONG YEARS OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT HAS ALREADY BEEN REWARDED WITH TWO INTERNATIONAL PRIZES: REVOLUTION MAGAZINE’S BEST COMPLICATION PRIZE; AND THE CHRONOMETry PRIZE AT THE 2020 GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE (GPHG).

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After being tested for 12 months at sea in 1768-1769, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Marine Clocks No. 6 and No. 8 still served to calculate longitude to within a mere 1/8° margin of error.

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From then on, the time-measuring instruments created by Ferdinand Berthoud became benchmarks in terms of reliability and precision, leading him to be granted the role of "Clockmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy" in the spring of 1770.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO Two hundred and fifty years later, inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud's Marine Clock No. 6, the FB 2RE collection is in turn rewarded for the ingenuity and performance of its original movement, combining a remontoir d’égalité mechanism with fusee-and-chain transmission. Already honoured with the title of "Best Complication" prize by Revolution magazine, the Chronometry prize awarded at the 2020 edition of the GPHG now adds to the list of honours garnered by the Chronomètre FB 2RE.  This collection redefines the modern conception of a chronometer, in accordance with the most demanding criteria of quality and precision that have guided the Manufacture's choices since its beginnings.

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Since its launch in August 2020, the FB 2RE collection has elicited considerable enthusiasm among collectors and watchmaking professionals. Five years after the unveiling of the first FB 1 collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE stands out on both aesthetic and technical levels. Its round case houses an original movement combining the emblematic fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir d’égalité, serving to provide a natural deadbeat seconds display on a Grand Feu enamel dial.

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We wanted to develop a genuine wrist chronometer," says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Above and beyond the design, embodying a contemporary expression of Ferdinand Berthoud's Marine Clock No. 6, the technique is unprecedented: it is an authentic feat and the combination of fusee-and-chain transmission with a remontoir d’égalité really improves precision.”

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Tested by two independent laboratories – first for 15 days at the COSC and then, once cased-up, for 50 hours on the Fleuritest simulator –, the Chronomètre FB 2RE achieves outstanding chronometric performance, while operating at a low frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Throughout the power reserve, the readings taken deviate by less than 0.5 seconds on average from the optical reference measurement of the GPS clock. The FB 2RE model therefore shows very little difference between its respective first and last minutes of operation under test conditions, reproducing the movements of a watch on the wrist during the course of a typical day.

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Karl-Friedrich Scheufele comments: “We wish to offer demanding collectors the very best by introducing modern timepieces acknowledged for their reliability and accuracy. In the space of five years, we have received no less than ten international awards, including three at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This represents recognition for the work accomplished so far by all our teams. It allows us to establish ourselves in the field of Chronometry in a sustainable manner and encourages us to persevere along this path.”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE Gold Edition

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MOVEMENT
Calibre FB-RE.FC: mechanical movement with manual winding, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and remontoir d’égalité
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     37.30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9.37 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    16 ½
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     58
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     18 000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    50 hours

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   

• Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
     Suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
     Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
• Regulating organ
     Ferdinand Berthoud two-spoke variable-inertia balance with four inertia blocks
     Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillippe outer terminal curve (overcoil)
     Swiss lever escapement
     15-tooth escape-wheel
• Remontoire mechanism
     One-second remontoire
     Three-tooth stop wheel
     Hand-crafted triple-faced synthetic ruby cam
     Flat hairspring (steel alloy)

Components . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     1,200 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    790 components
Length of the chain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     285 mm
Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     26
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . .     10

DECORATIONS
• Nickel silver bridges with frosting-type finishing, secured to stylised steel pillars
• Engraved and black-varnished power-reserve indication on the back of the movement 
• Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

  • Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
FUNCTIONS
• Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve on the back of the movement, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance
  • REF. FB 2RE.1
  • 10-PIECE LIMITED NUMBERED EDITION IN 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat ethical non-rhodium-plated white gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock. Jhoi – jhouh
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1/10 to 10/10

• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat white gold, with black ceramic medallion
• Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glareproofed on both sides
• Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Split-level dial in white grand feu enamel, black grand feu enamel hours & minutes track
• Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in black grand feu enamel
HANDS
• Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in CVD-blued 18-carat gold
• Central seconds hand in CVD-blued titanium
• Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement
STRAP AND. BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

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  • REF. FB 2RE.2
  • 10-PIECE LIMITED NUMBERED EDITION IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD

CASE

• Round case in 18-carat ethical rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock.
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1/10 to 10/10

• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat rose gold, with black ceramic medallion
• Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat rose gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glareproofed on both sides
• Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Split-level dial in black grand feu enamel, white grand feu enamel hours & minutes track
• Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in white grand feu enamel
HANDS
• Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in 18-carat rose gold
• Central seconds hand in gilded titanium
• Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement
STRAP AND. BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle – Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request


Limitation  Only 10 pieces of each version watches

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Press Release - 2020
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Glashutte Original – SENATOR Chronometer Edition

 Glashutte OriginalSENATOR Chronometer White Gold - Limited Edition 2020

 For connoisseurs of the fine art of German watchmaking

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Memories of the famous Glashütte marine chronometers of the past come to mind when one looks at the Senator Chronometer - Limited Edition from Glashütte Original. The masterpiece, limited to 25 pieces, is presented in a newly designed white gold case whose bezel takes the characteristic concave shape of historic marine chronometers. Like its highly accurate predecessors of the 19th and 20th centuries, this chronometer, too, is distinguished by proven rate precision, perfect legibility and exceptional aesthetics.

 Precious materials and luxurious decorative finishes

The Senator Chronometer made its debut in 2009 and in 2010 was voted “Watch of the Year” by readers of the German trade magazine Armbanduhren. Since then the elegant timepiece has become a permanent and successful part of the Senator Collection.

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The year 2020 brings a particularly exquisite and precious follow-up model featuring not only a white gold case but a dial in solid gold and a gold-plated manufactory movement with refined decorative finishes.

 Certified timekeeping and German chronometer standard

The term “chronometer” refers to the most precise timekeepers of their time. These exceptionally accurate instruments were used primarily for navigation on the high seas in order to determine, by means of the precise time of day, the exact position of a ship. The manufacture of the first marine chronometers in Glashütte began in 1886, which were soon tested by the Naval Observatory in Hamburg, where they achieved excellent results.

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The standards today remain equally high: a timepiece may only be called a “chronometer” if certified as such by an authorised testing institute. All wristwatch chronometers from Glashütte Original have their rate precision tested by the German Calibration Service, whose tests are based on the German chronometer standard.

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 The distinguishing feature of the German standard consists in the requirement that the timepiece enable setting of the time precisely to the second, and that the movement complete the entire test while mounted in its case.

 Authentic historic models

The design of the displays is inspired by historic marine chronometers: the small second is positioned at 6 o’clock, the running time display at 12 o’clock.

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 In addition, the characteristic Panorama Date is located at 3 o’clock, whose colour matches that of the dial. Thanks to the so-called “jumping date”, the date change takes place precisely at midnight and takes only a few seconds.

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The corrector, which allows one to set the date quickly, is located on the side of the case at 4 o’clock. A discreet day/night indication makes it easier to set the time and is located in a round opening within the running time display: from 6 o’clock in the morning until 6 in the evening the small circle appears in white, from 6 p.m. on in black.

Historic models also served to inspire the concave shape of the bezel, which allows more visual space for the dial.  The bezel is fitted with a delicate knurled edge, which served to improve the grip on marine chronometers of the past.

Elegant colouring and surface texture

The elaborate decorative finishing of the dial testifies to the craftsmanship of the experts who make this miniature work of art at the watchmaker’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim. The blank is made of solid gold and is engraved with great care. The engravings are subsequently filled with black lacquer and burnt in with heat in a kiln.

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 In a final step the blanks prepared in this way are manually silver plated. An elaborate process calls for a perfectly calibrated mixture of fine silver powder, salt and water to be rubbed on the dial by hand with a brush, in order to achieve a shining silver surface. This results in a fine, even shimmer across the surface texture of the dial.

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Pear-shaped hands in blued steel follow their paths to indicate the hour and minutes. Additional blued hands mark the running time and small second displays, whose silhouettes have been milled into the dial, thus lending the dial additional depth. 

Sophisticated engineering

The timepiece is powered by the finely finished Calibre 58-03 manual winding movement, whose wheel bridge is also silver plated and subsequently given a galvanic coating in rose gold. The other frame components are also coated entirely in galvanic rose gold.

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The innovative manufactory movement features, among others, a refined second-stop mechanism: when the crown is pulled out, the time display stops and the seconds hand is reset to zero and held there; simultaneously the minute hand advances to the next full minute index. When one then turns the crown to set the time of day, the hand jumps from one minute index to the next – thus ensuring that the correct relationship between seconds and minutes is maintained. 

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A sapphire crystal case back allows one to take in the classic features of the Glashütte art of watchmaking at a glance: the characteristic three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons, polished and bevelled steel parts and the hand-engraved balance cock unite exceptional watchmaking expertise with a genuine work of art. 

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Rounding off the new chronometer’s design is a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a foldover clasp or pin buckle closure in white gold.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection : SENATOR

Model name: Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition

Reference number: 1-58-03-01-04-30 (fold fastener)
1-58-03-01-04-01 (pin buckle)


Movement 
Manual winding Calibre 58-03, finely finished,
Glashütte three-quarter plate silver plated by friction and subsequently rose gold plated,
Functions: 
Hour, minute and small seconds, stop-seconds mechanism,
day/night indicator, running time indication, Panorama Date
Special feature: German chronometer certification
Power reserve: 44 hours, 40 minutes (± 5 %)
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Case:  
White gold, sapphire crystals front and back
Water resistant to 5 bar
Dimensions: diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 12.47 mm
Dial: solid gold, silver-plated by friction, Roman numerals/railroad chapter
Strap: 
Dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin buckle or fold fastener (both in white gold)

 
Launched: 2020
Limitation: 25 pieces

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Press Release - 2020
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For further information please contact:
Glashütte Original I Press Office
Altenberger Straße 1 I D-01768 Glashütte i. Sa.
Telephone: +49 (0) 350 53 46 - 0
E-Mail: pr@glashuette-original.com
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