Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Glashutte Original – SENATOR Chronometer Edition

 Glashutte OriginalSENATOR Chronometer White Gold - Limited Edition 2020

 For connoisseurs of the fine art of German watchmaking

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Memories of the famous Glashütte marine chronometers of the past come to mind when one looks at the Senator Chronometer - Limited Edition from Glashütte Original. The masterpiece, limited to 25 pieces, is presented in a newly designed white gold case whose bezel takes the characteristic concave shape of historic marine chronometers. Like its highly accurate predecessors of the 19th and 20th centuries, this chronometer, too, is distinguished by proven rate precision, perfect legibility and exceptional aesthetics.

 Precious materials and luxurious decorative finishes

The Senator Chronometer made its debut in 2009 and in 2010 was voted “Watch of the Year” by readers of the German trade magazine Armbanduhren. Since then the elegant timepiece has become a permanent and successful part of the Senator Collection.

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The year 2020 brings a particularly exquisite and precious follow-up model featuring not only a white gold case but a dial in solid gold and a gold-plated manufactory movement with refined decorative finishes.

 Certified timekeeping and German chronometer standard

The term “chronometer” refers to the most precise timekeepers of their time. These exceptionally accurate instruments were used primarily for navigation on the high seas in order to determine, by means of the precise time of day, the exact position of a ship. The manufacture of the first marine chronometers in Glashütte began in 1886, which were soon tested by the Naval Observatory in Hamburg, where they achieved excellent results.

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The standards today remain equally high: a timepiece may only be called a “chronometer” if certified as such by an authorised testing institute. All wristwatch chronometers from Glashütte Original have their rate precision tested by the German Calibration Service, whose tests are based on the German chronometer standard.

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 The distinguishing feature of the German standard consists in the requirement that the timepiece enable setting of the time precisely to the second, and that the movement complete the entire test while mounted in its case.

 Authentic historic models

The design of the displays is inspired by historic marine chronometers: the small second is positioned at 6 o’clock, the running time display at 12 o’clock.

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 In addition, the characteristic Panorama Date is located at 3 o’clock, whose colour matches that of the dial. Thanks to the so-called “jumping date”, the date change takes place precisely at midnight and takes only a few seconds.

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The corrector, which allows one to set the date quickly, is located on the side of the case at 4 o’clock. A discreet day/night indication makes it easier to set the time and is located in a round opening within the running time display: from 6 o’clock in the morning until 6 in the evening the small circle appears in white, from 6 p.m. on in black.

Historic models also served to inspire the concave shape of the bezel, which allows more visual space for the dial.  The bezel is fitted with a delicate knurled edge, which served to improve the grip on marine chronometers of the past.

Elegant colouring and surface texture

The elaborate decorative finishing of the dial testifies to the craftsmanship of the experts who make this miniature work of art at the watchmaker’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim. The blank is made of solid gold and is engraved with great care. The engravings are subsequently filled with black lacquer and burnt in with heat in a kiln.

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 In a final step the blanks prepared in this way are manually silver plated. An elaborate process calls for a perfectly calibrated mixture of fine silver powder, salt and water to be rubbed on the dial by hand with a brush, in order to achieve a shining silver surface. This results in a fine, even shimmer across the surface texture of the dial.

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Pear-shaped hands in blued steel follow their paths to indicate the hour and minutes. Additional blued hands mark the running time and small second displays, whose silhouettes have been milled into the dial, thus lending the dial additional depth. 

Sophisticated engineering

The timepiece is powered by the finely finished Calibre 58-03 manual winding movement, whose wheel bridge is also silver plated and subsequently given a galvanic coating in rose gold. The other frame components are also coated entirely in galvanic rose gold.

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The innovative manufactory movement features, among others, a refined second-stop mechanism: when the crown is pulled out, the time display stops and the seconds hand is reset to zero and held there; simultaneously the minute hand advances to the next full minute index. When one then turns the crown to set the time of day, the hand jumps from one minute index to the next – thus ensuring that the correct relationship between seconds and minutes is maintained. 

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A sapphire crystal case back allows one to take in the classic features of the Glashütte art of watchmaking at a glance: the characteristic three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons, polished and bevelled steel parts and the hand-engraved balance cock unite exceptional watchmaking expertise with a genuine work of art. 

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Rounding off the new chronometer’s design is a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a foldover clasp or pin buckle closure in white gold.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection : SENATOR

Model name: Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition

Reference number: 1-58-03-01-04-30 (fold fastener)
1-58-03-01-04-01 (pin buckle)


Movement 
Manual winding Calibre 58-03, finely finished,
Glashütte three-quarter plate silver plated by friction and subsequently rose gold plated,
Functions: 
Hour, minute and small seconds, stop-seconds mechanism,
day/night indicator, running time indication, Panorama Date
Special feature: German chronometer certification
Power reserve: 44 hours, 40 minutes (± 5 %)
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Case:  
White gold, sapphire crystals front and back
Water resistant to 5 bar
Dimensions: diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 12.47 mm
Dial: solid gold, silver-plated by friction, Roman numerals/railroad chapter
Strap: 
Dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin buckle or fold fastener (both in white gold)

 
Launched: 2020
Limitation: 25 pieces

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Press Release - 2020
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For further information please contact:
Glashütte Original I Press Office
Altenberger Straße 1 I D-01768 Glashütte i. Sa.
Telephone: +49 (0) 350 53 46 - 0
E-Mail: pr@glashuette-original.com
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Monday, November 16, 2020

H. MOSER & CIE. – STREAMLINER Chronograph Funky Blue 2020 Grand Prix

 H. MOSER & CIE.STREAMLINER Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue 2020 Grand Prix

Streamliner: the evocative name of the line released in 2020 by H. Moser & Cie. Overall winner of the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in the Chronograph category, the Streamliner is quickly becoming the must-have model. Imbued with the fluidity of geometric curves and dynamic forms, this collection is characterised by the seamless integration of its steel bracelet with the cushion-shaped case.

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Steel on steel, Moser-style, of course. Which means employing minimalism to perfectly enhance the resolutely innovative aesthetic of the Streamliner models. After the success of its Chronograph Flyback Automatic with a grey fumé dial and of its three-hand watch, H. Moser & Cie. is unveiling the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue, featuring the now unmistakable eponymous dial.

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In Haute Horlogerie, it is the details which make all the difference. With the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue, H. Moser & Cie. has created a piece which brings together harmonious proportions, fluid forms and high-end finishes, all presided over by this colour which has become an iconic part of the H. Moser & Cie. palette: Funky Blue. As with all models in the Streamliner collection, this chronograph has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts.

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A shaped watch with a steel cushion case and a generous diameter of 42.3 mm, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue is water-resistant to 12 ATM in both passive and dynamic modes. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an "M", is positioned at 4 o'clock. It balances the two push-buttons located at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. Designed as a truly sculptural piece, this case boasts harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics. 

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It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. 

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The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides, in a nod to the traditional unusual shapes typical of Moser cases.   

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Around the edge of the Funky Blue dial, the red and white outer track measures the seconds while the inner track counts the minutes. At midday, the 60 numeral dominates the dial, harking back to the stopwatches of the Sixties and Seventies, when legibility and functionality were key. Of course, for a chronograph, accuracy is everything: this is ensured by the choice of hands to measure the elapsed time, which have a thicker base and a fine tip, like those found on counters in cars or measuring instruments.

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 With legibility always at the forefront, H. Moser & Cie. has opted for a red seconds hand, while the minute hand is rhodium-plated. The manufacture has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®.

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As for the movement, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue is equipped with the calibre developed by AGENHOR, with support from the teams at H. Moser & Cie. The design of this movement is extremely complex, yet focussed on simplicity, legibility, and minimalism, whilst showcasing its practical and ergonomic side with a central display.

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The first automatic chronograph with a central display equipped with a flyback function on the minutes and seconds, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue offers more accurate time reading, with an emphasis on understatement. 

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In the centre of the movement, the most discerning eyes will spot a cam sculpted into the shape of a figurine with pointed ears, recalling a certain cartoon legend and star of superhero films. This secret, aimed at those in the know, demonstrates that there is room for a little humour even in the world of traditional watchmaking.

H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   STREAMLINER Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue

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Reference 6902-1201, steel model, Funky Blue fumé dial, steel integrated bracelet

Case
Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Chronograph push-buttons at 10 and 2 o'clock
Screw-in crown at 4 o'clock, engraved with an "M"
See-through case back
Dynamic water resistance to 12 ATM (allowing the chronograph and flyback function to be used underwater)
Dial
Funky Blue fumé
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Minute track for the elapsed seconds and minutes
Tachymeter on the flange
Movement
Calibre HMC 902
developed with AGENHOR for H. Moser & Cie., self-winding movement
Diameter: 34.4 mm or 15 1/4 lignes
Height: 7.3 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Bi-directional winding
Tungsten oscillating weight, placed between the movement and the dial
Double barrel
Column wheel chronograph
Two-stage chronograph mechanism
Horizontal clutch with friction wheel; smooth wheel equipped with micro-teeth to avoid intermeshing of gears and to minimize accidental jumps when the chronograph is activated
Tulip yoke allowing the chronograph to be triggered or released
434 components
55 jewels
Power reserve:
minimum 54 hours
Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph with central display and indication of the elapsed minutes and seconds
Flyback on the minutes and seconds
Automatic
Bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo


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Press release - 2020
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.         +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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