Friday, August 7, 2020

Moritz Grossmann – HAMATIC Vintage White Gold Black Edition

Moritz GrossmannBENU HAMATIC Vintage White Gold ‘black-or’ Dial Edition

Vintage look automatic hammer. Moritz Grossmann launches HAMATIC Vintage with shiny ‘black-or’ dial and vintage 
‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875

Traditional automatic hammer winding system with pendulum weight reveals a peek of the intricate mechanics and converts even the smallest movement into impressive winding power.

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  • HAMATIC Vintage limited to 25 watches worldwide
  • Highest standards of craftsmanship
o Mirror polished ‘black- - or’ dial with shiny black surface
o Vintage ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875
o The open hammer body in the centre brings the perfection of
Grossmann’s watchmaking craftsmanship and the highest level of fin ish to life
o The finest, handcrafted hands measure 0.1 mm in width at the narrowest points

  • Special features
o Specially designed movement based on the traditional hammer
mechanism from the 19th century renders the HAMATIC unique in terms of its mechanics and beauty
o Even the slightest arm movement provides winding power
o Hammer winding mechanism with reduction gear works in both directions
o Even winding via two click wheels ensures high efficiency


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What is it that connects people with time? Both are perpetually in motion. As the famous proverb says, ‘a rolling stone gathers no moss’, which reminds us of the benefits of an active lifestyle. This takes energy. Mechanical watches have been wound by hand for centuries – b y turning a crow n, a crank, a key or b y hoisting weights on a chain. How can we fulfil the dream of a mechanism that makes consciously winding the watch superfluous? The answer is given by man himself. The movement of the watch wearer supplies the self-winding watch with the energy it needs.

Grossmann’s aesthetics – interpreting the traditional automatic hammer makes the most beautiful mechanics come alive

The HAMATIC Vintage draws its kinetic energy from the arm movement of the watch wearer. The movement of the arm continuously deflects a pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy gold hammer head. This kinetic energy is transferred via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel and winds the watch.

Inspired by the vintage idea, the Moritz Grossmann designers adopted the traditional concept of an automatic hammer winding system from the 19th century and refined it according to the principles of Grossmann’s supreme craftsmanship, resulting in a new movement.

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The elaborate design of the hammer mechanism, known as the HAMATIC for short, provides a stage for the strikingly crafted gold hammer head and reveals the fascinating mechanics and exceptional finish of Grossmann’s 106.0 movement. The oval hammer body is open in the middle, offering a clear view of the beauty of the highly sophisticated mechanism.

Vintage style dial with shiny black-or surface

The new version of the HAMATIC in 750/000 white gold comes with a vintage style dial and is limited to 25 models worldwide. The dial has been given a new and exclusive finish. The surface was first painted in a black-anthracite colour. The mirror-polished background on a German silver base was then treated with a finish called ‘black or’, which created a shiny black surface.

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Large Roman numerals in white form an attractive contrast to the black dial of the HAMATIC Vintage. The vintage ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875 and handcrafted polished – hand s m easuring a m ere 0.1 mm wide are an homage to the old pocket watches of Moritz Grossmann.

Calibre 106.0 Bidirectional automatic hammer winding mechanism transfers even the slightest arm movements to wind the mainspring

The calibre 106.0 was especially designed for the HAMATIC. This classic pillar movement has a 2/3 plate and six Glashütte stripes.

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The hammer winding mechanism works in two directions and winds the watch, regardless of the direction in which the watch wearer moves his arm. The winding mechanism via two click wheels is also highly energy efficient. The alternating, even winding over both wheels ensures that the mechanism is highly reliable. A power reserve of 72 hours is available when the movement is fully wound, which means that the HAMATIC continues to run for three days without any further movement.

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Another advantage of the hammer-style pendulum system is that the hammer’s centre of mass is further away from its rotational axis in the HAMATIC. This results in a high torque, which means a powerful force acting on the spring.

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Hammer movements from just five degrees, which correspond to an oscillation of 2 mm, are used to wind the mainspring. The constant winding when the watch is worn also ensures that the spring is evenly tensioned, thus ensuring a high degree of precision.

Compensating for quick and slow movements by means of stop springs

The newly designed movement offers a further advantage. People do not always move in the same way. Movements are fast and slow. The former generate excessive deflections of the hammer body, which need to be attenuated and limited by fixed end stops.

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This shock absorption is ensured by intricately crafted end springs in the hammer frame. More gentle movements, on the other hand, result in a lower hammer amplitude. Friction losses are virtually non-existent and energy transmission is nearly loss-free.

Reduction gear with yoke winder manual or automatic winding of the movement possible

In order to achieve a continuous rotary motion of the wheels for winding, the oscillations of the hammer body are picked up by two click levers and transferred to two click wheels. The two-way direction of rotation of the click wheels ensures an even rotary motion. This transfers the energy to the ratchet wheel in the mainspring barrel via the free wheel.

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The watch can be wound by hand in addition to the self-winding mechanism. To achieve this, a manual winder designed as a yoke winder is mounted on a separate bridge. The yoke ensures that the manual winder is always uncoupled from the ratchet wheel when the HAMATIC system is active in response to motion. In manual winding mode, the reduction gear is isolated from the ratchet wheel by the click-pawl idler.

The HAMATIC also offers a stop-second function via the balance for ultra-precise time setting.

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Technical Specifications

Collection  BENU

Limited to 25 watches worldwide

The HAMATIC Vintage in the white gold version with black ‘black-or’ dial and ‘M.
Grossmann’ logo is limited to 25 watches worldwide.
White gold with ‘black- - or’ dial version

Reference: MG-002708

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Case: 750/000 white gold
Dial:
Shiny ‘black-or’ with white Roman numerals
Hands: Handcrafted, polished steel
Limited edition: 25 watches

Movement
Manufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positions
Dimensions Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.15 mm
No. of parts 312
Jewels 38
, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement Lever escapement
Oscillator Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia
screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
Balance Diameter: 10.0 mm, frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve 72 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hour and minute, small second with stop seconds
Operating elements Crown in 750/000 gold for winding the watch and setting the time
Case dimensions
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Case Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Dial 
‘black-or’ shiny black, white Roman numerals
Hands Manually crafted from steel, polished
Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold
Special features
Grossmann balance; click pawl in reduction gear; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on
cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver,
hand-engraved 2/3 plate and cantilevered balance cock; wide, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, double-band snailing on the mainspring barrel; raised gold chatons

Limited edition: 25 watches

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Press Release - 2020
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PRESS CONTACT:
Sandra Behrens – Communication Manager
Uferstr. 1
01768 Glashütte
Tel: 0049-35053-320020
Fax: 0049-35053-320099
E-Mail: sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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Thursday, August 6, 2020

F.P.Journe – Chronometre a Resonance Double Time 2020


F.P.JourneCLASSIQUE Chronomètre à Résonance Double Time Platinum-Rose Gold 2020

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THE CHRONOMÈTRE À RÉSONANCE F.P.JOURNE
celebrates its 20 th anniversary

The first observations pertaining to the natural resonance phenomenon were made by 17 th century Dutch scientist Christiaan Huygens, fol-lowed by 18 th century horologists Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet, who developed timepieces based upon this principle. Since then, François-Paul Journe is the first and only watchmaker to manufacture wristwatches that perform through acoustic resonance.

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When he presented his first Résonance wristwatch in 2000, it was baptized Résonance under the patented brand name Résonance® . The F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Résonance is the only wristwatch in the world that utilizes the physical natural resonance without any mechanical transmission phenomenon, previously known as double pendulum or double balance.

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Conceived, developed and built to meet the demands of actual wear on the wrist and thereby provide chronometric performance driven to extremes, this watch represents one of the wildest challenges in the field of mechanical watches! Each of the two balances alternately serves as exciter and resonator.

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When the two balances are in movement, they enter into harmony thanks to the resonance phenomenon and begin to beat naturally in opposition. The two balances then support each other, giving more inertia to their movement. This result is possible only if the difference of the frequency from one to the other does not exceed 5 seconds per day cumulated on six positions. Their setting is an nextremely delicate task.

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Whereas an external disturbance affects the running of a traditional mechanical watch, the same disturbance, for the Chronomètre à Résonance, produces an effect that accelerates one of the balances as much as it slows down the other. Little by little, the two balances come back towards each other to find their point of harmony, thus eliminating the disturbance, and beating in perfect synchronization.

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This emblematic watch that distinctively signs François-Paul Journe’s horological research on precision was awarded “Montre à Grande Complication” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2010.

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François-Paul Journe has conceived several versions of his wristwatch throughout the last 20 years; the first 20 by Subscription (2000), the first collection series (2001), the Ruthenium series (2001-2002), with movement in 18K rose Gold (2005), the digital 24 hours Résonance (2010), the analogic 24 hours Résonance (2019), and the new Chronomètre à Résonance (2020).

Moving towards more precision, always!

The new Chronomètre à Résonance has only one single barrel spring to provide power for the two movements. A differential placed on the first wheel, visible in the centre of the dial, transmits, independently, the energy of the barrel spring towards the two secondary gear trains. Each sec-ondary gear train is equipped with a Remontoir d’Egalité of a frequency of 1 second. Working in such a way, the force received by the escapements remains linear and assures isochronism throughout 28 hours.

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The Chronomètre à Résonance features a redesigned case with a crown now placed at 2 o’clock easing the winding of the watch in position 0 and the time setting in position 2, clockwise for the left dial and anti-clockwise for the right dial. The pulling of the crown at 4 o’clock simul-taneously resets both seconds.

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On the movement side, 2 «Remontoirs d’Égalités» (constant-force device) provide a linear force to each of the two balance springs to remain isochronous during 28 hours.



This model is available with a case in Platinum or in 18K 6N Gold in 40 or 42 mm diameter. The dial is proposed in 18K white or 6N Gold with 2 hour subdials in whitened Silver Guilloché clous de Paris. Leather strap or Gold or Platinum bracelet.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE 

Model: Chronomètre à Résonance Double Time

Movement
Calibre 1520 in 18 K rose Gold
Manual winding / 31 turns of crown
Dimensions
Overall diameter: 34.60 mm
Casing-up diameter: 34.20 mm
Overall height: 7.97 mm
Height of winding stem: 3.39 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm
Number of parts_
Movement: 378
Cased up with strap: 427
Jewels: 62

Balance
  • 2 Independent linear escapements, 15 teeth
  • 2 Independent balances with 4 inertia weights
  • 2 Flat micro-flamed Anachron balance springs
  • 2 Mobile stud carriers
Free sprung
  • 2 Springs laser pinned to Nivatronic collets
  • 2 Pinned GE studs
Frequency: 21’600 v/h, 3Hz
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm 2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0 h dial up: > 260° / 24 h dial up: > 260° 
Main Characteristics_
  • 2 Remontoirs d’Égalités
  • 2-position winding crown at 2h
Manual winding in position 0
Time adjustment in position 2: clockwise for the left dial and anti-clockwise for the right dial
Resetting the seconds to zero by pulling the crown at 4h
Indications
Double time display:
  • Left analog - indicating 24 hours
  • Right analog - indicating 12 hours
  • 2 small seconds at 6h
  • Power reserve at 12h
Total Autonomy_
42 hours
Efficient running time: 28 hours ± 2
Finishing
High quality
Partial circular graining on baseplate
Geneva waves on bridges
Screw heads polished and beveled, with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Steel components hand-finished
Dial
18K white or 6N Gold and whitened Silver hour dials with guilloché clous de Paris
Case
Platinum or 18 K 6N Gold
Diameter: 40 or 42 mm
Total height: 11 mm
Strap
Alligator straps
Pin Buckle
Gold or Platinum bracelet.


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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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