Wednesday, August 5, 2020

ARMIN STROM – SYSTEM 78 Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold


ARMIN STROMSYSTEM 78 Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold Automatic - 2020

Collection SYSTEM 78 
new rose gold and black dial

After the great success of the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force premiere model in stainless steel, the edition is now being supplemented by a 18ct rose gold with black alligator leather strap. The black dial gives the remarkable timepiece an elegant retro character and highlights the new design of the watch with striking contrast.

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This state-of-the-art design creates a stable, low-friction axis of rotation for the mainspring to deliver power from the barrel arbor, supported by precision jewel bearings. Though using only a portion of the mainspring by preventing it from completely unwinding, Armin Strom still achieved a power reserve of 72 hours. Wound by a unidirectionally winding micro rotor visible from the dial, the mainspring bears a power reserve indicator on the barrel cover for reference.

With numerous small improvements to the going train and winding mechanism, the new Caliber ASB19 demonstrates Armin Strom’s commitment to continually questioning established theory and using in-house R&D to advance horological technology. Claude Greisler, co-founder of Armin Strom, highlights the improved usability: “We have reinvented the whole functionality of an automatic watch movement to bring another level of precision and to offer our collectors more assurance for reliable daily wear.”

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The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges echoing the pocket watch inspiration behind the ASB19. The 41-millimeter case, a first for Armin Strom, should appeal to the more classically-inclined collector.

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The contemporary dimensions maintain the essence of Armin Strom DNA while shaping a new aesthetic that showcases a reduction to the essential. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience for discerning collectors.

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is the first model of the new System 78 Collection. It features a 18ct rose gold case and is priced at CHF 26,900.

Gravity Equal Force inspiration and development

Gravity Equal Force represents a drive to constantly improve Armin Strom watches with every model. As a creative watch brand focused on innovation, Armin Strom’s watchmakers and movement engineers routinely research and explore concepts across the horological landscape in search of ways to rethink theory and practice.

The Gravity Equal Force development began with a desire to deliver equal force to the regulating system. The result was a stop-works declutch mechanism incorporated into the barrel housing ensuring consistent power delivery to the balance and escapement.

Utilizing a Geneva wheel mounted to the barrel housing cover, the rotation of the mainspring barrel is limited to just 9 full turns out of a possible 12.5. This represents the central 72% of the mainspring’s potential torque curve, the flattest and most consistent portion. As the barrel housing unwinds around the arbor, a pin counts off the rotations on the Geneva wheel until it reaches the locked position and prevents further unwinding.

This limit keeps the power delivery to the balance as consistent as possible and the amplitude in optimal range. Once it reaches the upper limit, the declutch mechanism guarantees the slip of the mainspring and allows the micro-rotor to turn evenly when fully wound.

A small declutch lever is attached to the Geneva wheel that marks its rotation and power reserve from full to empty. Sitting atop the barrel cover, the power reserve location will change as the watch is wound, providing some playful variation in the dial display.

The new stop-works declutch mechanism coincides with a complete reassessment of the mainspring barrel construction. When a U.S. client brought a vintage pocket watch to Armin Strom for repair, it created an opportunity to explore techniques that were common in earlier watches and update them for use in a modern movement.

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Upon inspection it was discovered that it bore a motor barrel whose barrel and winding mechanism are constructed opposite that of the standard going barrel. The standard design sees a central arbor often supported by jewel bearings rotating inside the barrel to wind the mainspring. Once fully wound, the arbor remains fixed while the mainspring pushes the barrel housing and so driving the going train.

A typical mainspring barrel doesn’t rotate in a precision jewel bearing but around the arbor, which means higher friction and less precise rotation. The Armin Strom motor barrel design reversed this so that the barrel housing stays locked after winding, allowing the well supported and more precise arbor to rotate and drive the going train.

This simple change goes against at least a century of tradition, yet, when assessed objectively, it is clear that it is a demonstrably better system as it is more precise and stable during operation of the movement. Armin Strom’s watchmakers built on this idea to create an entirely new watch that launches a brand-new collection.

The development of Caliber ASB19 sees continued improvement throughout all the components thanks to the technological advancement of the previous centuries. A new layout combined with improved geometry for the gear teeth and adjustments provides smoother operation and more robust functionality.

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Armin Strom’s focus on innovation and development was kickstarted during the development of its groundbreaking Resonance Clutch Spring and has led to the watchmakers rethinking everything in an attempt to innovate where others stagnate. This isn’t limited to mechanics alone; the entirety of Armin Strom’s design aesthetic is evolving to build a new core moving forward.

The previous openworked display has been replaced by a dial offset from the center, providing a clear indication for the time to avoid any confusion. Retained are the visible barrel and micro rotor, though now supported by clean geometric bridges harkening to pocket watches of the past. The entire presentation has the goal of reducing details to the essential for a cohesive package.

The previous case design has been trimmed down to create the first 41-millimeter case for Armin Strom. The iconic lip at 6 o’clock, which can be traced back to Mr. Armin Strom himself, is still present, though in a much more streamlined form. Armin Strom has taken the opportunity to improve finishing on every component throughout the movement, creating a new standard for Armin Strom calibers.

The entire philosophy of development at Armin Strom is reorganizing to focus on updating the aesthetic design to signify a new chapter for the brand. The intention is to take every opportunity to rethink watchmaking theory, improve each new watch, and take Armin Strom’s level of finishing ever higher.

System 78 – A new entry to Armin Strom

The Gravity Equal Force signals a new direction for the brand, launching the System 78 collection to replace the Single Barrel Collection. The collection is intended to be the entry point for Armin Strom, an haute horlogerie collection at a reasonable price point with impeccable finishing and constant invention.


It’s not self-evident that we can present our watchmaking values and hunger for innovation to a broader audience. It was a big challenge to offer this level of perfection for that price” says Serge Michel, Founder of the Manufacture. The name displays what the brand hopes to create, a System of fine watchmaking available to all who desire it. Every piece will feature an innovation as well as showcasing the watchmaking philosophy of Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, co-founders of the modern Armin Strom, both born in the same year, 1978. Thus the System 78 collection is born.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: SYSTEM 78

Model:  Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold

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Ref. RG19-GEF.85.AL.M.35

Movement
Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19
Automatic winding with microrotor,
Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset display with subdial seconds
Regulating system: Balance wheel with 4 regulating screws
Power reserve: Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hours
Dimensions: 35.52 mm x 11.67 mm
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Finishing: Hand-finishing to the highest quality level
Jewels: 28
Number of components: 202
Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
Case
18ct rose gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12,65mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Offset with subdial
Hands: Manufactured by Armin Strom – rose gold with hand finishing
Strap
Delivered with a genuine black alligator leather strap and 18ct rose gold ardillon buckle
A 18ct rose gold double-folding clasp is an option.

Price: CHF 26,900

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Press releases - 2020
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ARMIN STROM AG |
Bözingenstrasse 46
CH-2502 Biel-Bienne | Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)32 343 33 44
Fax +41 (0) 32 343 33 40
info@arminstrom.com
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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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www.ArminStrom.com

Tuesday, August 4, 2020

LONGINES – HERITAGE Classic - Tuxedo 2020

LONGINESHERITAGE Classic - Tuxedo 2020

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The Longines Heritage Classic - Tuxedo:
a glimpse into the wild parties of the later 1940s

Longines celebrates the carefree spirit of the late 1940s. After the harsh war came a time of prosperity and celebration. Elegance was back in fashion; men wore suits and women wore recently-introduced nylon stockings.

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People got dressed up to go out and dance to the rhythm of jazz bands. The new Longines Heritage Classic - Tuxedo creations - one with 3 hands and the other featuring a chronograph - are inspired by two historic pieces designed in the spirit of their time, modernised.

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Longines offers two new models inspired by historical pieces with the typical aesthetics of the regained freedom of the late 1940s. You can easily imagine it on the wrist of partygoers at jazz clubs. They have been nicknamed "Tuxedo" by collectors, the contrast of black and white on their dial reminds us of the suits worn during the elegant and festive evenings of the time.

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To respect the spirit of the original models, Longines has chosen here not to add the word "Automatic" on the dials. In keeping with the aim to create timepieces that are as faithful as possible to historical timepieces, there is also no date window on contemporary models, which are presented on semi-matt black leather straps, perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the era.

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The Longines Heritage Classic - Tuxedo is available in two versions: a 3-hand model and a chronograph model.

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The former stands out for the aesthetics of its dial, a typical and very popular design from the 1940s. An opaline silver disc surrounded by a sublime matt black circle of thin baton hands covered with Super-LumiNova®.

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The small seconds counter, located at 6 o'clock, is off-centre: this detail contributes to the charm of this 38.50 mm-diameter timepiece housing the exclusive L893.5 movement with its silicon balance spring, a guarantee of quality and precision.

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The chronograph version displays matt black, opaline and midnight blue, colours as elegant as they are refined. Several zones feature on its dial, and a tachymetric scale - quite rare for a Longines watch - also enriches its circumference, just like on the original model.

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The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph - Tuxedo houses in its 40.00 mm-diameter case a movement (calibre L895.5) developed exclusively for Longines Heritage timepieces. It is also equipped with a silicon balance spring.

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With its two new models in contrasting black and white, The Longines Heritage Classic - Tuxedo brings us back to a colourful era that brought back parties!

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

CollectionHERITAGE 

Model: HERITAGE Classic - Tuxedo 2020

    L2.330.4.93.02’850
    L2.830.4.93.0 1’900

CALIBRE
    Mechanical self-winding movements
  •     L2.330
        Calibre L893 (ETA A31.501)
        11½ lines, 27 jewels, 25’200 vibrations per hours
        Power reserve: 64 hours
  •     L2.830
        Calibre L895 (ETA A31.L21)
        12½ lines, 37 jewels, 28’800 vibrations per hours
        Power reserve: 54 hours
FUNCTIONS
    L2.330
        Hours, minutes and small second at 6 o’clock
    L2.830
        Hours, minutes and small second at 3 o’clock
        Chronograph: central 60 seconds hand and 30 minutes counter at 9 o’clock
CASE
Round, Ø 38.50 mm or 40.00 mm, stainless steel
DIALS
    L2.330  - Silver opalin and black, 12 Arabic numerals with Super- LumiNova®
    L2.830  - Silver opalin and black, 10 Arabic numerals, tachometric scale
HANDS
    L2.330  - Rhodium-plated with Super-LumiNova®
    L2.830  - Rhodium-plated and blued steel
WATER-RESISTANT  To 3 bar (30 meters)
GLASS  Sapphire box with several layers of anti-reflective coating
STRAP
Black leather with buckle


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Press release - 2020
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For further information please contact:
Longines International Public Relations
2610 Saint-Imier, Switzerland
publicrelations@longines.com
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