Friday, May 29, 2020

F.P.Journe – CLASSIQUE Astronomic SOUVERAINE


F.P.JourneCLASSIQUE Astronomic SOUVERAINE Minute Repeater Steel 44 mm - 2020

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F.P.Journe presents the Astronomic Souveraine, 
a steel watch with 18 functions and complications, 
entirely devoted to the contemplation of the stars.

After the success of ▶️ Only Watch 2019, F.P.Journe presents the current collection version of the prototype that was offered at auction: the Astronomic Souveraine. It is a grand complication watch in steel, with tourbillon and minute repeater, whose vocation is to recall a long-forgotten gesture.

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That of losing oneself in the stars in order to better find one’s way on Earth. There was a time when that poetic idea was not a paradox, but a self-evident truth. And like the instruments that were once used for the observation of the stars, the Astronomic Souveraine is above all a tool. But rather than opening a window onto the celestial vault, it celebrates Time in all its glory.

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The inspiration for the project was an adolescent’s drawing, found crumpled up behind the wastepaper bin. That sketch was done fifteen years ago by François-Paul Journe’s son, Charles. Having drawn the sketch almost without thinking, on second thought the young man decided it was not appropriate. After all, he wasn’t the watchmaker in the family! And yet... On the dial, there was a curved aperture for the path of the sun.

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It was a good idea. But what could be done with it? A self-winding watch? Why not? As long as there were not too many additional complications. François-Paul Journe began his research. His quest for the ideal watch took six years. And finally, it was back to the drawing board. The watch would have a manual-wind calibre that would allow more functions. It would be necessary, however, to ensure the delivery of enough energy to power all of them.

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One of F.P.Journe’s earlier creations served as his inspiration: a pocket watch with planetarium made in 1987 for a collector of scientific objects. That unique tourbillon watch indicated mean time and sidereal time, as well as the equation of time, a full calendar, and the power reserve. However, there could be no question of looking backward. The future astronomic watch had to be resolutely contemporary and possess a distinctive personality. Its power would come from a double barrel. And the tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité would guarantee its perfect isochronism.

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Nevertheless, the 18 carat rose Gold movement of the Astronomic Souveraine is totally novel. And it is, of course, very finely decorated. For example, the white Gold dial, whose sub-dials are embellished with clou de Paris decoration, and the moon phases, with a hyper-realistic moon that was traced from a NASA photograph. At 3h, there is the mean time (or civil time) dial, with a blue hand indicating a second time zone.

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At 9h, there is the sidereal time dial, which allows the observation of the stars. Next to it, the mean time seconds are shown on a disc. Between the two are the central minutes and the power reserve indication, which remains optimal up to 40 h.

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Above all this is a blue aperture showing the sunrise and sunset. Here, metal shutters lengthen or shorten the days. On the reverse there is the equation of time and a full annual calendar encircled by the signs of the zodiac. It is on this side that the dance of the tourbillon may be admired.

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In all, this watch, which also strikes the hours, the quarters and the minutes, possesses 18 functions and complications. It is made up of 758 components, in addition to the case. However, the case is no larger than 44 mm in diameter and 13.80 mm thick. But watch lovers will have to be patient, as only four or five pieces will be made each year.

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That is slightly thicker than the Tourbillon Vertical but with an added 2mm on the diameter. This combination mages it a very big watch and beyond what I am personally comfortable with. We can see from the movement name cal 1619 that the movement is 16 linge where as the Tourbillon Vertical was 15 Linge.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE 

Model:  Astronomic SOUVERAINE

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Reference: ref. AST


Movement
Exclusive manual winding prototype F.P. Journe
Calibre 1619 in 18K rose gold.
Dimensions of the Movement Overall diameter: 37.00mm
Cased-up diameter: 36.40mm
Height movement: 10.75mm
Height of winding stem: 4.59mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours

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Escapement_ 
15 teeth escape wheel
90° Anchor fork
Finishing_
High quality
Circular waves on bridges
Circular grained baseplate
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Balance 
Balance with 4 inertia weights
Breguet Anachron spring
Pinned stud
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned Geneva stud
Frequency: 21,600 V/H, (3Hz)
Inertia: 11.00 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 260°
24h vertical: > 260°
Main Characteristics_ 
  • Tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité
    Minute repeater
    Sidereal hours and minutes
    2 nd time zone
    Moon phases
    Annual calendar
    Equation of time
    Sunrise and sunset
    Natural dead-beat second
    All settings via the crown
Additional Details: One minute tourbillon with remontoire d'egalité.
Double barrel, minute repeater, performing a complete rotation in 60 seconds, dead-beat second.
Function
  • Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date
  • Annual Calendar
  • Day & Night Indicator
  • Moon Phase
  • Power Reserve
  • Equation of Time
  • Time of Sunrise
  • Time of Sunset
  • Minute-Repeater
  • Second Time Zone
  • Tourbillon
Case
Round Case in Steel
Brushed & Polished
Diameter: 44 mm
Total height: 13.80 mm
Sapphire crystal on both sides.
Dial
Unique White Gold
Chrome dial colors
Front indications:
  • Hours and 2 nd time zone at 3
  • Minutes in the centre
  • Sunrise and sunset at 12
  • Sidereal hours and minutes at 9
  • Power reserve at 6
  • Moon phases at 5
  • Second on disc at 7
Back indications:
  • Equation of time in the center
    Annual calendar at 10
Number of components (without casing): 758
Cased on leather strap 817
Jewels 68

All settings and corrections adjusted by the crown.
Strap
Alligator straps
Pin Buckle

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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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Thursday, May 28, 2020

Franck Muller – VANGUARD™ Racing Skeleton 2020

Franck MullerVANGUARDV45 Rising Skeleton Carbon - 2020


The VanguardRacing Skeleton collection from Franck Muller takes inspiration from the world of automotive competition. It houses a stylish engine-turned skeletonized movement.

Inspired by the motorsport engines, the automatic movement and the frame structure of the Vanguard Racing Skeleton have been significantly lightened. To realize this dynamic timepiece, technical materials such as carbon fiber, titanium and aluminum have been chosen.

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The Vanguard Racing Skeleton features hours, minutes, seconds and date. The central seconds counter, thanks to a smoked sapphire glass, provides an accurate display while allowing great visibility of the movement. The seconds indications start from the bottom instead of the top as in an automobile rev counter, allowing the owner to read the seconds from both ends of the hand.

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The white hand with red tip and the bicolor second indications further reinforce the idea of a rev counter, making you want to push the hand into the red zone. To further accentuate the skeleton design, the date numbers have also been fully skeletonized.

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The strap is subtly integrated into the case with the help of two unseen screws, instead of the regular spring-bar technique. The rubber inside the strap effortlessly takes the shape of the wrist, combining comfort and aesthetics, while the Alcantara® suede reminds the covering of a sports car cockpit.

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The Vanguard™ Racing Skeleton is available in 18k rose gold, stainless steel, titanium and carbon.

Inspired by automotive competition, the Vanguard™ Racing Skeleton collection calls in for pure and stylish engine-turned aesthetics.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  VANGUARD 

Model: VANGUARDV45 Skeleton Rising

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Reference V 45 SC DT RACING SQT (ER)

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 25.60 mm x Height 3.60 mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 158
Number of Jewels: 21

Movement decoration:
Côtes de Genève and sunray brushing on the bridges
Skeletonized oscillating weight
Côtes de Genève on the bottom plate
Diamond polishing on the bridges
24k gold bath, rhodium treatment and black PVD treatment
45 ° polishing and sunray brushing on the ratchet
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o’clock
Case
Vanguard case
Carbon
Red ergal inserts on both sides of the case
Width: 44.00 mm X 53.70 mm X 12.80 mm
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Skeleton dial with applied indexes and Arabic numerals meticulously painted and applied by hand 
Strap
Hand-sewn Alcantara® suede
Brushed folding buckle
Titanium with black PVD treatment

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Available in 18k rose gold, stainless steel, titanium

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Press release 2020
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Franck Muller Flagship store : 
Rue de la Tour-de-l'Ile 1
1204 Genève - Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 818 00 30
Whatsapp : +41 78 836 33 17​
E-mail: delisle@franckmuller.ch
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