MB&F – Horological Machine N°10 ‘BULLDOG’

MB&F – Horological Machine N°10 ‘BULLDOG’

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SUMMARY

The relationship between man and watch is as nuanced as the one between man and dog. The best examples of such connections last for years, even decades, shaping lives and stories. In some cases, the watch chooses its owner as much as the other way around. After all, whether it’s your first or hundredth time, there’s something special about the moment you set eyes on The One. So it is, as they say, with Man’s Best Friend. Presenting Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’.

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A rounded, compact body of titanium or red gold, coupled with a generous ration of sapphire crystal. Two prominent aluminium time-display “eyes”, rolling at anyone who dares look its way. A collar studded with projections that allow you to wind the mainspring or set the time. Stout but flexible “legs” that wrap firmly around your wrist. A massive jaw. And above all, a big heart beating steadily at 2.5Hz (18,000vph).

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Just like the creature for which it is named, there’s more to HM10 Bulldog than meets the eye. Its hinged jaws open and shut according to the amount of wind left in its mainspring — a fully closed mouth tells you that “Bulldog” is wound down and ready for a nap.

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If you can clearly see the rows of shining teeth lining the jaws, get ready, because that means “Bulldog” is full of fight, charged up with a 45 hours of mainspring energy. This massive power-reserve indication has been carefully designed and calibrated to consume the least energy possible, allowing HM10 Bulldog to direct its considerable mainspring torque solely towards its suspended balance and its revolving hour and minute domes.

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The manual-winding engine of HM10 Bulldog was designed and developed in-house, leveraging the best of MB&F’s technical expertise built up over the years; longtime members of the MB&F Tribe will recognise elements that hew closely to the horological lab’s best-loved creations. The large suspended balance that hovers just beneath the central dome of sapphire crystal was made possible by the various iterations of this mechanism in the Legacy Machine collection.

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The massive jaws that indicate the level of mainspring wind are a much-expanded demonstration of the power-reserve management that was first deployed in the 2014▶️ LM1 Xia Hang. The paper-thin aluminium domes have their roots in the HM3 Frog and were refined in 2014’s HM6. Even the grillework design motif in the “ribs” set beneath the balance and in the tail-end of the body echoes the automotive-inspired HM8, HMX and HM5. Taken altogether, the message is clear: HM10 Bulldog is a highly bred machine.

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Despite its outsize personality — measuring 45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and with a maximum height of 24mm — HM10 Bulldog is surprisingly wearable. Its sprung strap attachment “legs” allow the body to fit closely around the wrist, with the calf-leather strap as robust as any well-made leash — fastened with either a folding buckle or Velcro system.

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Available in both titanium and a combination of titanium and red gold, HM10 Bulldog is assembled with highly distilled expertise in micro-mechanical engineering. Fitting the requisite elements of timekeeping and time display within such a limited three-dimensional volume, while maintaining top levels of artistry and finish, requires careful balance between technical and aesthetic factors.

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MB&F creations have always attracted a highly loyal audience and HM10 Bulldog returns the favour in spades: its allegiances go solely to its owner. Both the time indication and the power reserve display are visible only from the point of view of the wearer. One final piece of advice for those who come across Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is engraved on its body, like a cautionary message you might find on the collar of a particularly feisty canine. The beast may be intimidating, but it ultimately exists in service of another. People would do well to remember — “Forget the dog, beware of the owner”.

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MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in two launch editions: grade 5 titanium body with blue “eyes”, and 18k red-gold and titanium body with black “eyes”.

INSPIRATIONS FOR HM10 BULLDOG

The design came to Maximilian Büsser while he was travelling in Japan; Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ bounded up in his mind’s eye just as a loyal pup might greet a returning master.

“What you see now in front of you is more or less exactly what I saw at the time,” says Büsser, “and it was the first time I actually saw a watch in my mind, just like that.”

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HM10 Bulldog coalesced from various MB&F influences and motifs that dedicated enthusiasts of the brand will immediately recognise. In a deeply affirmative way, HM10 Bulldog is simultaneously a reflection of MB&F and a paean to the fidelity of their followers.

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The traditional saying “as stubborn as a bulldog” parallels the determination of MB&F to chart an untraditional path outside of conventional watch design, sometimes with creations that have polarised the horological community. In similar vein, the British bulldog may be a dog of pedigree and stature, but it is certainly no crowd-pleaser.

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The Latin root for the word “animal” is anima, meaning “soul” or “spirit”; the enlivening element. Little wonder that the MB&F creations that draw inspiration from the natural world — such as Horological Machine N°3 ‘Frog’ and Horological Machine N°7 ‘Aquapod’ — have also provoked some of the strongest responses. HM10 Bulldog follows this evocative path, with its large eyes, expressively mobile mouth and exposed heart.

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MORE ABOUT THE HM10 ENGINE

The mechanics driving Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ are entirely new but deeply familiar. Completely designed and developed in-house, the HM10 engine is the technical confluence of the various areas of movement expertise at MB&F, honed over years of experience.

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The eye-catching balance, suspended beneath the central sapphire crystal dome and beating at the traditional cadence of 2.5Hz (18,000vph), first appeared in an MB&F creation in 2011, with the debut of Legacy Machine N°1. Since then, this technically challenging mechanism has become a unique icon of MB&F, appearing in the majority of Legacy Machines, Horological Machine N°9, and now HM10 Bulldog.

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Powerful and startling, the revolving time-telling domes of HM10 Bulldog originated in the conical hour- and minute-modules of the first Horological Machine N°3, the creation that cemented MB&F’s reputation as a disruptive horological force.

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Subsequently, the cones took on rounded forms in HM3 ‘Frog’, but the one factor that remained constant was the urgent need to make them as light as possible, so that they placed minimal stress on the rest of the engine. Conventional milling processes were reworked and tolerances were sliced micro-fine in order to produce paper-thin aluminium components in three dimensions. These components later appeared again in Horological Machine N°6, this time paired with conical gearing to enable the highly precise display of time.

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The 301-component HM10 engine is manual-winding, with a single barrel that imparts 45 hours of power reserve, indicated by the opening and shutting of external hinged jaws. Whereas conventional examples of power-reserve display will aim for a simple hand indicator that consumes as little energy as possible, HM10 Bulldog has chosen to make a statement of strength with its impossible-to-miss display. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, located towards the rear of the HM10 Bulldog body.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: Horological Machine N°10 ‘BULLDOG’

Available in two versions:

• - Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes;
• - RT version: 18k red gold and titanium case with black hour and minute domes.

Engine
Manual-winding in-house movement
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000bph)
Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials
Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute domes and markers
Single barrel with 45 hours of power reserve
301 components, 34 jewels
Left crown at 11 o'clock for winding; right crown at 1 o'clock for setting the time

FUNCTIONS & INDICATIONS
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Power reserve indicated in 3D by the opening and closing of the jaws (end of power reserve = closed jaws).
Case

• Version Ti: grade 5 titanium
• Version RT: 18k 5N+ red gold and grade 5 titanium

Dimensions: 54mm x 45mm x 24mm
Water resistant to 5ATM / 50m / 160ft
Sapphire crystals:  2 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Strap and buckle
RT version: hand-stitched brown calf-leather strap with custom-designed red gold folding buckle.
Ti version: hand-stitched blue calf-leather strap with Velcro system and titanium buckle.


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Press release - 2020
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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MONTBLANC – Heritage Star Collection 2020

MONTBLANC – Heritage Collection 2020

New Heritage Watches With Vintage Flair

The trend is for today’s stylish gentleman, fondly called neo-dandies, to be attentive to details that make a difference, whether it is the feel of a certain fabric, the cut of a jacket, the choice of colours, or the finishing touches to the ideal outfit. Genuinely passionate about sartorial details, these men master the art of being well dressed with flair and look for authenticity and aesthetic harmony, which can sometimes be anti-conformist. They embody the spirit of sophisticated elegance and are the essence of the Heritage product line.

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Paying tribute to historical and classic Minerva wristwatches from the 1940s and 1950s, the Heritage timepieces combine the elegance of watchmaking past with today’s bold design codes. The new models feature fully polished 40 mm and 42 mm cases, curved horns with facets, and are fitted with sapphire crystal glass boxes for an elegant vintage look.

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Reminiscent of the neo-dandy style, special attention has been paid to dials with distinctive colours, such as salmon, tobacco-brown, British-racing-green and they include technical finishes such as two-tone decoration, a domed-shape, and lacquer coatings that require dexterity and expertise to apply.

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Other details feature dots as indexes, curved Dauphine hands enhanced with SuperLuminova*, a rack minuterie with SuperLuminova small dots every five minutes, and old- school international payphone indications of 3, 6 and 9 minutes.

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In line with the collection’s spirit, the timepieces are adorned with Sfumato alligator straps of various colours from British-racing-green, to grey and tobacco-brown that complete the overall design. Like with all the Heritage timepieces, these new wristwatches are water resistant to 50 meters. SuperLuminova is a registered trademark which does not belong to Montblanc

Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition 100 pieces

The highlight of the Maison’s product line is the Heritage Pulsograph Limited Edition 100, a timepiece inspired by what collectors call the ‘doctor’s watches’, that were used by doctors in the past to check a patient’s heart rate. Following the launch of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph Limited Edition with a salmon-coloured dial, the Maison is now unveiling a brand-new model in an 18 K rose gold 40 mm case with a distinctive smoked tobacco-brown dial and matching Sfumato alligator strap, reinforcing the trendy vintage style.

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On the case back, the sapphire crystal reveals the high level of hand-finishing of the Montblanc Manufacture monopusher chronograph Calibre MB M13.21. This high-end movement is composed of a large balance wheel with 18 screws that beats at the traditional frequency of 18,000 A/H, a column wheel and horizontal coupling, the iconic V-shaped chronograph bridge whose designed was patented in 1912, and the emblematic hand-decorated Minerva arrow. To match the 18 K rose gold case and the tobacco-brown dial, the calibre MB M13.21 features rose gold-coated plate and bridges.

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The refined tobacco-brown dial features several vintage design codes from the 1940s and 50s: a domed smoked lacquered dial with “grainé” hour ring and sunray finishes, 18 K rose gold-coated luminescent Arabic numerals and dots for indexes, 18 K rose gold-coated luminescent dauphine hour and minute hands, 18 K rose gold baton-shaped hands for the seconds and the chronograph indications, rack minuterie, and old school international payphone indications of 3, 6 and 9 minutes on the chronograph’s minutes counter.

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The timepiece comes with a matching tobacco-brown Sfumato alligator strap, completing the overall vintage design.

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph

Joining the Heritage product line is this new edition in stainless steel with a salmon-coloured dial.

The Heritage Monopusher Chronograph is one of the technical pillars of Minerva savoir-faire, offering an accessibly-priced model at the centre of the collection. This timepiece features the latest chronograph design with a domed, salmon-coloured dial with black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and dots for indexes. Other features include a blue rack minuterie, black rhodium- coated luminescent dauphine hands for the hours and minutes, and contrasting blued steel baton hands for the seconds and the chronograph indications, providing great visibility. A closer look at the minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock reveals an indicator for 3, 6 and 9 minutes – a vintage touch from the days when we used coin-operated telephones and needed to track the length and cost of a call.

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This timepiece comes in a 42 mm stainless steel case with polished and satin-finishes, curved horns, a domed sapphire glass box, and the distinctive Minerva Manufacture embossing on the case back. The timepiece is completed with a matching grey Sfumato alligator strap from the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.

Montblanc Heritage Automatic

The new Montblanc Heritage Automatic comes in 18 K yellow gold with a brand-new lacquered British-racing-green dial and matching Sfumato alligator strap for a vintage look.

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This new colour combination is enhanced by yellow gold details on the dial, including 18 K yellow gold-coated curved Dauphine hands that have been enhanced with SuperLuminovaR, along with applied Arabic numerals and dots for indexes that are also in yellow gold. Providing great flair, the dial has been lacquered – a technique that requires expertise and dexterity. The 40 mm case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal and an elegant British-racing-green Sfumato strap from the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.

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Like all the Montblanc Heritage Automatic models, the timepiece is powered by the Calibre MB 24.27, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, and is water resistant to 50 metres.

Montblanc - A true watchmaker since 1858

Montblanc watchmaking is built on a unique set-up that brings two manufactures together, based in Le Locle and in Villeret, in the Swiss Jura mountains.

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The Montblanc watchmaking story began in 1858 when Mr. Charles-Ivan Robert founded a watch workshop in the Saint-Imier valley. This marked the beginning of the historic Minerva era. Already during the end of the 19th century, pocket watches started to gain some fame for their crown winding system.

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But the Minerva Manufacture’s most flourishing years brought them to be recognized as one of the 20th ’s century leading specialists in professional watches (stopwatches & chronographs) for measuring small intervals of time with high precision.

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Today, Montblanc timepieces continue the journey of Minerva’s over 160-year legacy in four fine watchmaking explorations: the Montblanc Star Legacy, the Montblanc 1858, the Montblanc TimeWalker and the Montblanc Heritage product lines, all linking the past and the present through design, style and technical innovation.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition 100

Ident. 126095

Movement: Calibre MB M13.21
Type of movement: Manually wound monopusher chronograph with pulsometer scale
Chronograph: Monopusher with column-wheel and horizontal coupling
Dimensions: Diameter = 29.50 mm; height = 6.40 mm
Number of components: 239
Number of rubies: 22
Power Reserve: Approx. 55 hours
Balance: Balance with screws, diameter = 11.40 mm; moment of inertia = 26 mgcm2
Frequency: 18,000 A/h (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring: With Phillips terminal curve
Plate: Rose gold-plated German silver with circular graining on both sides,
hand-chamfered edges, rose gold-plated German silver bridges with “Côtes de Genève”,
 circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train: Gold-plated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides

Displays
Hours and minutes from the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph’s elapsed-second hand from the dial’s centre, 30- elapsed minute counter at 3 o’clock
Pulsometer scale graduated for 30 pulsations

Habillage

Case
18 K rose gold, polished case
Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm; Height = 12.65 mm
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Watertightness: 5 bar (50 m)
Crown: 18 K rose gold with Montblanc emblem in relief
Pusher: Monopusher chronograph at 2 o’clock
Dial 
Domed lacquered smoked tobacco brown-coloured dial with “grainé” hour ring and sunray finishes, 18 K rose gold-coated luminescent applied Arabic numerals and dots as indexes,
18 K rose gold-coated luminescent bent dauphine hour- and minute-hands,
18 K rose gold-coated baton second- and 30-minute chronograph counter-hands,
18 K rose gold-coated bent baton central 60-second chronograph hand, historical Montblanc logo at 12 o’clock, pulsometer scale on the external part of the dial
Wristband
Brown Sfumato alligator-skin strap from the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with 18 K rose gold pin buckle

Limited Edition: 100

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Montblanc Heritage Automatic

Ident. 126464

Movement
Calibre MB 24.27
Type of movement: Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Number of rubies: 25
Power Reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat
Displays: Hours, minutes and seconds from the centre

Habillage

Case
18 K yellow gold, polished case 
Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm; Height = 11 mm
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with Minerva Manufacture engraving
Watertightness: 5 bar (50 m)
Crown: 18 K yellow gold with Montblanc emblem in relief
Dial
Domed lacquered British racing green-coloured dial with “grainé” hour ring and sunray finishes, 18K yellow gold-coated applied Arabic numerals and dots as indexes, 18 K yellow gold-coated luminescent bent dauphine hour- and minute-hands, 18 K yellow gold-coated bent baton second-hand, historical Montblanc logo at 12 o’clock
Wristband
British racing green-coloured Sfumato alligator-skin strap from the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with 18 K yellow gold pin buckle

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Date

Ident. 126104

Movement: Calibre MB 24.17
Type of movement: Mechanical movement with automatic winding, date
Number of rubies: 26
Power Reserve: Approx. 38 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring Displays: Flat

Habillage

Case
Stainless steel case with polished and satin-finishing
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions: Diameter = 43 mm; Height = 11 mm
Crown: Stainless steel with Montblanc emblem
Watertightness: 5 bar (50 m)
Dial
Ivory-coloured dial with silvery-white flange and the Montblanc exploding star guilloché pattern,
18 K rose gold-coated Roman numerals,
18 K rose gold-coated luminescent leaf hour and minute hands, blued second hand
Wristband
Brown Sfumato alligator leather crafted by the Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with stainless steel pin buckle

Also available with a stainless steel bracelet (ident. 126106)
Also available with a anthracite-coloured dial and grey Sfumato alligator leather strap (ident. 126105) or with a stainless steel bracelet (ident. 126107)

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph
Ident. 126078

Movement
Calibre MB 25.12
Type of movement: Mechanical movement with automatic winding, monopusher chronograph
Number of rubies: 27
Power Reserve: Approx. 48 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat

Displays:
Hours and minutes from the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph’s elapsed-second hand from the dial’s centre, 30- elapsed minute counter at 3 o’clock

Habillage

Case
Stainless steel case with polished and satin-finishes
Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm; Height = 14.7 mm
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with Minerva Manufacture engraving
Watertightness: 5 bar (50 m)
Crown: Stainless steel with Montblanc emblem in relief
Pusher: Monopusher chronograph integrated into the crown
Dial
Domed salmon-coloured dial with “grainé” hour ring and sunray finishes, black rhodium-coated applied Arabic numerals and dots as indexes, black rhodium-coated luminescent bent dauphine hour- and minute-hands, blued baton second- and 30-minute chronograph counter-hands, blued bent baton 60-second central chronograph hand, historical Montblanc logo at 12 o’clock
Wristband
Grey Sfumato alligator-skin strap coming strap from the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with stainless steel triple-folding clasp

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Montblanc Star Legacy Chronograph Day&Date

Ident. 126080

Movement: Calibre MB 25.07
Type of movement: Mechanical movement with automatic winding, chronograph, day&date
Number of Jewels: 25
Power Reserve: Approx. 48 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28.800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat
Displays: Hours and minutes from the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock Day&date in a window at 3 o’clock,
Chronograph’s elapsed-second hand from the dial’s centre 30-elapsed minute and 12-elapsed hour counters at 12 and 6 o’clock

Habillage

Case
Stainless steel case with polished and satin-finishing
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions: Diameter= 43 mm; Height = 14.76 mm
Crown: Stainless steel with Montblanc emblem
Water-resistance: 5 bar (50 m)
Dial
Ivory-coloured dial with silvery-white counters and flange and the Montblanc exploding star guilloché pattern,
18 K rose gold-coated Roman numerals,
18 K rose gold-coated luminescent leaf hour and minute-hands,
18 K rose gold-coated luminescent small second hand, blued chronograph hands
Wristband
Brown Sfumato alligator-skin strap crafted by the Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with stainless steel triple folding clasp
Also available with a stainless steel bracelet (ident. 126102).
Also available with a anthracite-coloured dial and grey Sfumato alligator leather strap (ident. 126081) or with a stainless steel bracelet (ident. 126103).

SuperLuminovaR is a registered trademark which does not belong to Montblanc


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Press releases - 2020
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