VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONNELLE Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONNELLE Twin Beat ® Perpetual Calendar Platinum 42mm Exclusively Edition

A Breakthrough in Function and Innovation

•     User-controlled dual-frequency watch.
•     Patent-pending system for lossless timekeeping transition between high-frequency Active mode (5Hz) and low-frequency Standby mode (1.2Hz)
•     Patent-pending system for the instantaneous jumping indications for the perpetual calendar.
•     Standby mode unlocks impressive extension of power reserve (at least 65 days).
•     Hyper-compact (42mm diameter, 12.3mm thick) despite high complication and extended power reserve.
•     Designed for ultimate convenience and ease of use.
•     A perpetual calendar that comes closest to operating “in perpetuity”.

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SIHH 2019. Over its 264 years of horological excellence, Vacheron Constantin has established an unshakeable reputation for meaningful innovation in technical and design domains. Today defining the future of fine mechanical watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, a timepiece that can adapt to its wearer’s needs.

When worn, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar beats at a high frequency that is aligned with modern active lifestyles, displaying the hours, minutes, date, month, leap year cycle and power reserve on its dial. When the watch is not being worn, its in-house developed calibre 3610 QP can be slowed down in order to guarantee an extended power reserve of at least 65 days.

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One of the most basic assumptions of mechanical watchmaking used to be that the energy output of the mainspring barrel had a fixed timespan, with very little deviation from the stated power reserve. The Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar transforms the mainspring into a source of variable energy levels, giving fine mechanical watchmaking a completely new degree of versatility.

Drawing on 264 years of horological expertise, Vacheron Constantin has achieved this innovative coup by giving the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar two balances, each operating at a different frequency that has never been used before by the Maison. A pusher at the 8 o’clock position allows the wearer to easily switch from one frequency to another, depending on activity level. When the watch is on the wrist, the wearer will get the most out of it by keeping it in Active mode, which features a 5Hz (36,000vph) balance and 4 days of power reserve.

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If the watch is to be taken off and left unworn for some time, it can be switched to Standby mode, which runs on a second balance with a drastically reduced frequency of 1.2Hz (8,640vph). This allows the maximum power reserve to be extended to at least 65 days. At any point during the Standby mode running time, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar can be switched back to Active mode and reworn, with all its calendar indications perfectly up to date.

About the perpetual calendar

The perpetual calendar is commonly considered as the most practical out of all the high complications. A complex mechanism that can correctly display all date information despite variable months and leap years, the perpetual calendar has an everyday relevance and utility. Up until now, however, the relevance and utility of the perpetual calendar have been restricted by the limits of conventional mainspring technology, making it necessary in most cases to set a perpetual calendar watch each time before it is worn.

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Now, a hand-wound perpetual calendar can be set flat on a table and picked up more than two months later, still displaying the correct date and month. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar brings true significance to the “perpetual” part of its name and charts a new course of timeless innovation.

Power and Control with the Twin Beat® System

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar utilises a patent-pending mechanical system that enables instantaneous switching between Active mode (5Hz, 36,000vph) and Standby mode (1.2Hz, 8,640vph) without interrupting the ability of the movement to keep time.

This system is inspired by the seasonal system from the Japanese Edo Period (1603 – 1868), which divided day and night into six segments, of which the length varied from day to night and from one season to another. Clocks from this period were equipped with a single or double foliot balance enabling automatic changes in their operating speed. A similar Japanese lantern clock from the very beginning of 18th century, belonging to the Musée International d’Horlogerie based in Switzerland, is exhibited on Vacheron Constantin’s booth at the SIHH 2019.

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Crucial to the operation of the Twin Beat® system is the mode selector that operates on an all-or-nothing principle, allowing only one balance to oscillate at a time. Additionally, the all-or-nothing construction ensures that the switch is instantaneous, with no lag when transitioning from one mode to the other. This guarantees that the timekeeping operations of the calibre 3610 QP are never interrupted, even for a fraction of a second, and that the time display remains as precise as possible.

Both the Active (5Hz, 36,000vph) and Standby (1.2Hz, 8,640vph) balances are driven by the same mainspring barrel, which is the most efficient way of distributing energy and the only way to have a single power-reserve indication. This high prioritisation of efficiency is central to the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, particularly with the Twin Beat® system and what it represents.

The other side of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar’s optimised energy consumption is its 1.2Hz (8,640vph) Standby mode, which steps in during long periods of stasis when the watch is laid flat and a high-frequency balance would only drain the mainspring with no added advantage.

 Putting the Perpetual in the Perpetual Calendar

In order to fully leverage the advantages of the user-controlled Twin Beat® system in maximising the potential power reserve, the perpetual calendar mechanism was reworked to use as little energy as possible.

Jumping indications are notorious for their parasitic influence on the balance of a movement. The energy requirements for their jumps cut into the energy going towards the balance, and in many cases the balance loses amplitude and the chronometry of the entire movement is compromised. This effect can be exaggerated in a watch with multiple jumping indications, such as a perpetual calendar timepiece.

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In the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, Vacheron Constantin has implemented instantaneous jumping indications for the date, month and leap year. Simultaneously, the jumping mechanism (patent-pending) has been completely redesigned, utilising a sprung dual-gear compound system that requires four times less torque than a conventional jumping display. With this improvement, even at midnight on New Year’s Eve when all three indications jump instantaneously, the effect on the amplitude of the active balance is negligible.

Other Technical Challenges

In order to support the main features of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar — the blockbuster perpetual calendar and the innovative Twin Beat® system — a number of other mechanical issues had to be addressed.

With the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, Vacheron Constantin has moved beyond the conventional range of oscillator frequencies for the first time. In doing so, new in-house areas of research and development were opened concerning the fundamental principles of mechanical timekeeping regulation.

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As a result, a new hairspring was created specifically for the needs of the highly sensitive Standby balance (1.2Hz, 8,640vph), with cross-sectional dimensions of 0.0774mm by 0.0159mm, comparable to the finest examples of human hair. The hairspring of the Standby balance is nearly four times smaller in cross section and exponentially more delicate than the hairspring of the Active balance (5Hz, 36,000vph).

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Although the display of the hours and minutes may seem to be the most straightforward part of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, they are far from simple or conventional. Because the calibre 3610 QP has two balance wheels, only one of which is allowed to oscillate at one time, the hour and minute hands have to draw variable information from two gear trains for one reading of the time. This is accomplished by a gear differential that allows the hands to read more than one input source of timekeeping data.

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A second differential is mounted on the barrel for the dual purpose of winding the mainspring and also reducing the mainspring torque as it is directed towards the Standby mode balance (armed with a delicate hairspring created especially for the slow-beat balance). Two final differentials translate the power reserve into the subdial that indicates remaining mainspring wind.

Despite all this, the 480-component calibre 3610 QP measures only 6mm in height and 32mm in diameter, an impressive feat of micro-engineering on its own. With the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, Vacheron Constant further expands its considerable savoir-faire in compact movement construction.

Made by Design

Despite the pedigree of the classic case design in platinum and the prestige of a high complication, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar deliberately embraces a modern aesthetic take on age-old finishing techniques.

Movement plates and bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and then treated with NAC, a dark coating that offers superior resistance and durability compared with other similar-looking treatments.

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On the dial, the very 18th-century art of engine turning and frosted finish are transmuted into clean radial guillochage and sand-blasted surfaces. In order to perfectly achieve this union of tradition and modernity, the dial is made in two main segments in a multi-stage process. A gold dial segment is decorated with hand-guillochage, and then fitted within an outer segment of sapphire crystal. Gold hour indexes are then set into the sapphire-crystal dial segment, which is further laser-engraved and ink-filled for a sleek, seamless appearance.

This balance of classic case design, combined with contemporary dial and movement aesthetics, complements the underlying theme of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar — unequalled historical savoir-faire channelled through timeless innovation.


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Technical Specifications

Model : TRADITIONNELLE Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

REFERENCE 3200T/000P-B578

CALIBRE 3610 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32mm (14 ¼) diameter, 6mm thick
5Hz (36,000 vibrations/hour), 1.2Hz (8,640 vibrations/hour)
480 components
64 jewels

• Active mode (5Hz frequency): approximately 4 days of power reserve
• Standby mode (1.2Hz frequency): approximately 65 days of power reserve

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS
Hours, minutes, instantaneous perpetual calendar, power reserve, frequency mode
CASE 950 platinum
Diameter 42mm, 12.3mm thick
Transparent sapphire-crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30m)
DIAL
Gold hand-guilloché slate-coloured dial (inner part)
and transparent sapphire-crystal dial
18k white-gold applied hour markers, 18k white-gold hours and minutes hands
Black oxidised gold power-reserve, date, month and frequency-mode hands
STRAP
Grey Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish,
large square scales
CLASP Pin buckle in 950 platinum, polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques


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Press Release - 2019
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Baume & Mercier – CLIFTON Club 42 Automatic

Baume & Mercier – CLIFTON Club 42 Automatic Collection - 2019

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Two new models enhance the Clifton Club collection: 

a GMT version for modern-day travellers and 

a bronze automatic version with a refined neo-retro look

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The Clifton Club collection is expanding this year with two new automatic references. Built for adventure, they elegantly revisit the codes of sportsmanship while respecting Swiss watchmaking traditions. These new watches are loyal to the Baume & Mercier spirit: high-performance, natural elegance, and easy everyday wear.

The Clifton Club GMT: a version for modern-day travellers

Attractive and modern, the Clifton Club GMT watch has been designed to accompany its wearers on all occasions, whether professional or personal. Powered by a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement, with the second time zone displayed by a central hand and the date visible in an aperture at 3 o'clock, this new reference has many advantages, including a 42 -hour power reserve. With a diameter of 42mm, its polished/satin-finished stainless steel case, equipped with a protected crown, fits all wrists. Even better, thanks to a contained thickness of 10.6 mm, the Clifton Club GMT watch slips easily under a shirt sleeve, combining discretion with sportiness.

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The time in the second meridian is read by a central hand and a deep azure blue aluminium bezel, graduated over 24 hours. A sensational complication for globetrotters, the instant display of a second time-zone makes it possible to see at a glance the local time and the reference time at home. With a design that is both contemporary and classic, this reference leaves nothing to chance; every detail has been carefully considered. Its screw-down crown and the opaline black of its dial give it a sporty look, evoking both refinement and performance. To be totally legible in the dark, the hour and minute hands and the Phi logo at 12 o'clock are coated with white Superluminova blue emission.

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The robust Clifton Club GMT is also equipped with an antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down full case back decorated with the Clifton Club coat of arms; all ensuring a water-resistance of 10 ATM, to a depth of 100 metres. The Clifton Club GMT is available in two versions, with two bracelets. The first option: a black "All Road" calfskin strap decorated with sailcloth-like patterns and a blue rubberised calfskin lining. The second option: a polished/satin-finished three-row stainless steel bracelet. Both bracelets feature an adjustable triple folding buckle and two stainless steel side push -pieces for maximum safety and an easy opening. The Clifton Club GMT from Baume & Mercier is made for modern-day travellers who are looking for a multifunctional sporty-chic watch.

The Clifton Club Bronze: when colour rhymes with style

With this collection, Baume & Mercier offers multifunctional watches that can be worn on every occasion, whether at the office or on holiday, in the gym or for a special event. Originally made of stainless steel, the Clifton Club watch is presented this year in a bronze version, giving it a unique neo-retro charm. Without losing an ounce of its athletic identity, it is available in four dial versions (black, brown, blue, green), and is up to the minute with the trend for bronze yet retaining everything that has made the watch such a success: a distinctive design combining elegance, sporting prowess, functionality and wearing comfort. With a universal diameter of 42mm, the polished/satin-finished bronze case of this new Clifton Club will acquire a patina over time. It's all there: interacting with the effects of oxidation, it will develop a singular colour hue.

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The advantage of using bronze lies in the fact that it is a living, changing and non-magnetic material, thus ensuring better protection of the movement's precision. As it oxidizes, the bronze case will become darker in colour, a deeper brown, and may in time develop a greenish sheen. All these chromatic nuances are due to exposure to air, water or sunlight. At the heart of this exceptional case which is only 10.3 mm thick, is a proven "Swiss made” self-winding mechanical movement with 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). The sporty lines of the Clifton Club Bronze are also highlighted by its screw-down bronze crown, its unidirectional rotating bezel, a water- resistance to 10ATM and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that makes it suitable for everyday use, whatever the situation.

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Fully in tune with the times, the Clifton Club Bronze is available in four versions. The first is the black dial and black "All Road" calfskin version with sailcloth-like patterns and a blue rubberised calfskin lining – available with an additional brown nubuck calfskin strap. The second version has a brown dial and a brown nubuck calfskin strap with off-white topstitching and an additional black rubber strap. The third version has a blue dial and blue rubber strap.

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The fourth version has a green dial and a brown nubuck calfskin strap with off-white topstitching. Again, for these two last references, an additional bracelet is available: a black calfskin strap with a green rubberised calfskin lining. As would be expected, the screw-down stainless steel case back is decorated with the Clifton Club collection coat of arms. Each bracelet is equipped with a pin buckle with stainless steel loops. Both stylish and adventurous, the Clifton Club Bronze watches symbolize the watchmaking versatility that the men of today are looking for.


References:

Clifton Club 42 mm Automatic GMT: 10486
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Clifton Club 42 mm Automatic GMT steel bracelet: 10487

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Clifton Club 42 mm Bronze Automatic black dial: 10500

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Clifton Club 42 mm Bronze Automatic brown dial: 10501

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Clifton Club 42 mm Bronze Automatic blue dial: 10502

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Clifton Club 42 mm Bronze Automatic green dial: 10503

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Technical Specifications

Model:  CLIFTON CLUB 42 GMT 

REFERENCE
M0A10486 STRAP
M0A10487 BRACELET

MOVEMENT
Automatic GMT (ETA 2893-A2)
 Jewels: 21
 Power reserve: 42 hours
 Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
FUNCTIONS
 H/M/S, date, central dual time
CASE
 Round
 Diameter: 42 mm
 Thickness: 10.6 mm
 Polished & satin-finished stainless steel case
 Protected and crew-down crown
 Fixed engraved blue bezel in stainless steel-aluminium
 Antiglare (1 face) scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
 Screw-down full case back engraved
with Clifton Club’s blazon
DIAL
 Opaline black
 Riveted indexes/Phi logo and hands with Superluminova ® white, blue emission
STRAP

•  Black “All Road” calfskin strap with exclusive sailcloth pattern and reverse turned edge blue rubberized calfskin lining

•  Polished and satin-finished stainless steel

BUCKLE
 Triple folding clasp with security push-pieces
WATER-RESISTANCE
 10 ATM (approx. 100m)

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Technical Specifications

Model:  CLIFTON CLUB 42

REFERENCE

M0A10500  Bronze black dial
M0A10501 Bronze brown dial
M0A10502 Bronze blue dial:
M0A10503 Bronze green dial

MOVEMENT
Automatic (ETA-2892-A2)
 Jewels: 21
 Power reserve: 42 hours
 Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
FUNCTIONS
 H/M/S, date
CASE
 Round
 Diameter: 42 mm
 Thickness: 10.3 mm
 Satin-finished bronze case
 Protected and screw-down polished bronze crown
 Bronze polished & circular satin-finished engraved unidirectional rotating bezel
 Antiglare (1 face) scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
 Screw-down full case back engraved with Clifto Club’s blazon
DIAL

• Black
• Brown 
• Blue
• Green

 Flange with blue side.
Riveted indexes/Phi logo and hands with Superluminova ® (C1, white emission)
STRAP

•  Black “All Road” calfskin strap with exclusive sailcloth pattern and reverse turned edge blue rubberized calfskin lining
•  Additional brown nubuck calfskin strap

•  Brown nubuck calfskin strap
   Additional black rubber strap

•  Blue rubber
•  Additional brown nubuck calfskin strap

CLASP
 Stainless steel pin buckle and keepers
WATER-RESISTANCE
 10 ATM (approx. 100m)


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