OMEGA – Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum 50th Anniversary

OMEGA – Speedmaster Moonwatch™ 321 Platinum 50th Anniversary

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321 Is Back! 

OMEGA’s Lunar Legend Powers The Latest Moonwatch

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The anticipation is finally over! Earlier this year, the Swiss watchmaker OMEGA announced the long-awaited return of its iconic Calibre 321.

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Today, on the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 lunar landing, the brand is proud to unveil the first new Speedmaster Moonwatch to house the movement.

Known for its beautifully intricate design, the original Calibre 321 was the first movement ever used in the OMEGA Speedmaster in 1957.

Most famously, it was used in a variety of space-bound models including the Speedmaster ST 105.003 (the model tested and qualified by NASA and worn by astronaut Ed White during the first American spacewalk) and the Speedmaster ST 105.012 (the first watch worn on the moon on the 21st of July, 1969).

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Original calibre 321, as found in all Speedmaster watches before the end of the 1960s / beginning of the 1970s
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After extensive research and reconstruction in a dedicated workshop, the Calibre 321 has now been reborn in-line with its original specifications.

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To view the reconstructed movement, customers will be able to look through the sapphire-crystal caseback of the new Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum. As the name suggests, the chronograph features a 42 mm brushed and polished case crafted from a special platinum alloy with the use of gold (Pt950Au20).

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The case design is inspired by the asymmetrical 4th generation Speedmaster case with twisted lugs (ST 105.012), and is presented on a black leather strap with a platinum buckle. Furthermore, this exciting timepiece includes a black ceramic bezel with the Speedmaster’s famous tachymeter scale in white enamel.

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Of course, there are plenty of other captivating features to explore too. The step dial is formed from onyx, with a deep black colour that works in perfect harmony with the other materials, including 18K white gold for the indexes and hands (except for the central chronograph seconds hand).

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Another very notable feature of the new timepiece is the three meteorite subdials. In tribute to the Speedmaster’s lunar history, OMEGA has used real slices of moon meteorite, providing a genuine link to the Calibre 321, which has powered every Speedmaster ever worn on the moon.

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For fans wishing to own a genuine piece of Moonwatch history, as well as a genuine piece of the moon itself, this chronograph should be high on their wish list.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  Speedmaster Moonwatch™ 321 Platinum

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Reference: 311-93-42-30-99-001

Case
42mm diameter
Platinum case - (Pt950, Au20), brushed and polished
Black ceramic bezel with tachymeter at 500 km/h
Sapphire crystal front and caseback
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet)
Dial
Black onyx dial with white gold applied indexes and hands
Three meteorite subdials
Movement
Omega re-edition of the historic calibre 321
Hand-wound, column-wheel chronograph
Dimensions:   Dia. 27 mm (12’’’)
Thickness: 6.74 mm
Frequency: 21’600 A/h (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 44 hours
Jewels: 17
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds,
chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Strap
Black alligator strap
Platinum buckle

PRICE:
CHF 55,000 ($ 56,067 US)

New Model - 2019 

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Links to more details.
Omegaforums.net
Speedmaster101.com
Chronomaddox.com
www.speedywatches.com

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Press releases - 2019
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www.OmegaWatches.com

F.P.Journe – ASTRONOMIC Blue - Only Watch 2019

F.P.Journe – ASTRONOMIC Blue Tourbillon Minute Repeater Tantalum 44 - Only Watch 2019

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The watch presented is a protype movement encased in 

a tantalum case and a special blue dial for Only Watch.

Finally, we get to see the long anticipated F.P. Journe Astronomic. The watch is expected to be officially presented at SIHH 2020 as previously announced by Mr Journe. However, we already got a hint from super collector Claude Sfeir ant the end of 2018, that we would get a taste of this new super complicated piece at OnlyWatch 2019.

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Prototype movement, with unique case and dial developed especially for Only Watch, 44 mm tantalum case, Astronomic prototype movement in 18K rose gold and blue chrome dial. Number of components (without casing): 758 Functions and complications: 18 All settings and corrections adjusted by the crown.

There is a lot to absorb and still much more to learn when we see the final watch.

Firstly, let us remember, that the ability to create such a watch is a monumental task in terms of movement design but also putting it in to a manufacturing process afterwards. Even more, for a relatively small independent brand without hordes of movement engineers. I think it is, once again, a testament to Mr Journes amazing skill as a watchmaker and running a small manufacture.

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The watch belongs to a genre of watches with multiple complications. On a personal level, I gravitate more toward simple concepts to be fully unfolded. Singular, strong expressions like the Resonance, which to me, is still the quintessential FP Journe watch. However, when that is said, I am absolutely impressed with this piece and I  love the whimsical and esoteric complications such as e.g. equation of time, Sideral time, sunrise and sunset. Its totally impractical but charming and connects the mind to the bigger dimensions beyond our boring little daily routines.

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Time is displayed like it is on a regulator type of watch where hours and minutes and seconds are displayed on separate dials. The hour dial has two hands, so two time zones can be displayed.

As you can see from the “menu” FPJ once again makes use of the remontoir dègalite to make sure the timekeeping is not destroyed when the double barrels have to deliver energy to the multiple complications – another among them – the Minute repeater.

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The complication I am most surprised about is the addition of the Tourbillon. Normally that has a much more elevated position in the FP Journe universe. Here, I’m getting the thought it was added because he can. Maybe I’m wrong. We will need to learn more at the presentation. Im not sure how it fits in with the theme of of an astronomic watch?

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The dial is once again, evidence that Mr Journe is a master at designing a beautiful dial. He has so much information he needs to display. Wisely he uses both sides of the watch and applies his strict basic layout of the two symmetrically arranged circles, composing the smaller elements around that. I think he gets away with it quite beautifully. The dial is simply good looking!

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What has me a little concerned, is the 44 mm case. I can understand that space is needed for a super complicated piece. The thickness is 13.75 and 44 mm diameter. That is slightly thicker than the Tourbillon Vertical but with an added 2mm on the diameter. This combination mages it a very big watch and beyond what I am personally comfortable with. We can see from the movement name cal 1619 that the movement is 16 linge where as the Tourbillon Vertical was 15 Linge. So I would not expect to see a smaller version of this watch.

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My own first impressions are, that I am hugely impressed. I appreciate and respect what is presented to us today. I think this piece will make an amazing trophy in a top level collection.

I also think it deserves a proper presentation from Montres Journe. It is not an easy watch to understand instinctly. Unlike the I Monopoussuir Rattrapante Blue for Onlywatch in 2017.  That is a watch a watch connoisseur understands almost instantly. This one is different. That’s why it surprises me a little that F.P. Journe has not made a bigger effort to explain the watch at its release.

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Technical Specifications

 Collection: Concepts d'Exception


Model: ASTRONOMIC Blue Tantalum

Reference: ref. AST
Limited Series

Movement
Exclusive manual winding prototype F.P. Journe
Calibre 1619 in 18K rose gold.
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Additional Details: One minute tourbillon with remontoire d'egalité.
Double barrel, minute repeater, performing a complete rotation in 60 seconds, dead-beat second.
Function

• Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date
• Annual Calendar
• Day & Night Indicator
• Moon Phase
• Power Reserve
• Equation of Time
• Time of Sunrise
• Time of Sunset
• Minute-Repeater
• Second Time Zone
• Tourbillon

Case
Round Case in Tantalum grade 5
Brushed & Polished
Diameter: 44 mm
Total height: 13.75 mm
Sapphire crystal on both sides.
Dial
Unique Blue Chrome dial colors
Unique example developed exclusively for Only Watch, with Silver parts.
Front indications: Hours, minutes and seconds of average time.
2nd time zone.
Hours and minutes of sidereal time.

• Sunrise and sunset. 
• Day and night indication. 
• Moon phases. 
• Power reserve.

Back indications: Annual calendar. Equation of time.
Number of components (without casing): 758
Functions and complications: 18
All settings and corrections adjusted by the crown.
Strap
Orange Alligator straps
Pin Buckle Tantalum


Limited - Exclusively for Only Watch

Price:
Estimated at $300,000 - $600,000
CHF 300,000 - 600,000
EUR 270,000 - 539,000

Availability: On the block at Only Watch in Geneva, November 9, 2019

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WHERE CAN I SEE
THE ONLY WATCH COLLECTION
BEFORE THE AUCTION?

ONLY WATCH UNVEILS THE 50 UNIQUE WATCHES THAT WILL BE AUCTIONED FOR THE 8TH EDITION OF THE BIENNIAL CHARITY AUCTION TO BENEFIT RESEARCH ON DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY

Under the High Patronage of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and due to the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Association Monégasque Contre les Myopathies, ONLY WATCH is proud to unveil today the names of the 52 watch brands participating in the 8th edition of the biennial charity auction benefitting research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy, as well as the 50 lots that will be auctioned.

This exceptional and unparalleled project supports the battle against a devastating myopathy that affects 1 in 3000 male births on the planet by funding research.

It is expected, this year again, to become the most talked-about topic in the watchmaking industry.

“I am grateful to all the watchmaking groups and independent brands participating in this 2019 ONLY WATCH edition demonstrating dedication and heart through their creativity and craftmanship for this year’s auction which promises to be, once again, record-breaking”, says Luc Pettavino.

These 52 brands will offer sought-after rarities that can be accessed nowhere else. Unique pieces showcasing the best savoir-faire in the horology world in all of its diversity.

For the second time Christie’s is the auctioneer of choice on November 9 when the 50 one-of-a-kind timepieces will be auctioned at the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues at 2 pm (UTC+1).

“Christie’s is looking forward working once more closely with the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies on their 8th edition of ONLY WATCH, under the guidance of Luc Pettavino. On behalf of Christie’s, I would like to extend my sincere Thank You to all involved in making this project a priority and to be present on 9 November in Geneva to compete for one – or more – of the 50 unique and specially made timepieces for ONLY WATCH”, commented Earl of Snowdon, Honorary Chairman Christie’s EMEA

Ahead of the auction, this unprecedented watch collection will be exhibited to the public from 25 September 2019 to 9 November 2019, in 10 different cities around the world. This world tour will be starting in Monaco, during (and on the site of) the Monaco Yacht Show.

• Monaco         25 to 28 September    at the Monaco Yacht show
• Dubai            1 to 3 October              at Christie’s in association with Seddiqi
• Paris              7 to 8 October             at Christie’s
• London         11 to 13 October          at Christie’s
• New York      16 to 17 October          at Christie’s
• Tokyo            22 to 23 October          at Christie’s
• Singapore     25 to 26 October          at Malmaison by the Hour Glass
• Hong Kong    28 to 29 October          at Christie’s
• Taipei           30 to 31 October          at Christie’s
• Geneva         7 to 9 November          at Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues

Since its creation in 2005, ONLY WATCH has raised over CHF40 million. Again, 100% of the proceeds achieved with the 8th edition of the charity auction will be directly invested in scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and on Duchenne muscular dystrophy in particular. An achievement made possible by to the generous donation and participation of the 52 watch brands, the partners offering a variety of services and logistical support, the media offering substantial coverage and, of course, the auctioneer, Christie’s.

“With ONLY WATCH everyone creates beauty to do good, meaning in this case supporting the work of dozens of researchers around the world, financing studies, purchasing material, creating biotech companies in the chemistry and biology sector… to bring this science to the clinic and one day maybe to find a cure. We have done a lot already and are conscious that there is still much to be done and that this initiative needs, more than ever, help and support.” Luc Pettavino.
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www.OnlyWatch.com
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Press release - 2019
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com