TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay CHRONO S&G

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay CHRONO S&G Steel 41 mm - Ref. 79363N


The first TUDOR chronograph, with a self-winding Manufacture Calibre, column wheel and vertical clutch is now available in an S&G version.

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Since the presentation of TUDOR’s first chronograph in 1970, of the Oysterdate, the brand has always produced watches that are closely tied to the world of motorsports. In the same way, since 1954 TUDOR has been constantly improving its professional divers' watches. The daringly hybrid Black Bay Chrono S&G chronograph (S&G stands for Steel & Gold) combines this aquatic heritage, represented by the Black Bay family, with the queen of the racetrack, the chronograph, for a precious sporty-chic result with an undeniable touch of nostalgia.

THE SPIRIT OF LAND AND SEA

Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G model makes the famous "snowflake" hands - the signature of TUDOR divers' watches since 1969 - its own in a gold version refined for optimum readability against the domed matt-black dial. Its counters are hollowed and their champagne-colour creates optimum contrast. Following the TUDOR chronograph tradition, a date aperture is positioned at 6 o'clock.

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The main Black Bay characteristics are retained, in a slim 41-millimetre steel case and equipped with yellow-gold pushers inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with a black anodised aluminium insert and tachymetric scale completes the face of this elegant, sporty chronograph.

MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH 

CALIBRE MT5813

 

With a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute certification, the Manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813 that drives the Black Bay Chrono S&G model is a high-performance movement. It was designed in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column-wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by an array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.

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Derived from the Manufacture chronograph calibre Breitling 01, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and dedicated finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands. They have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements, which they use jointly.

BRACELET, JACQUARD OR BUND STRAP

The fabric strap is one of the signatures of TUDOR, which remains one of the first watch brands to offer it. Woven on 19th-century Jacquard looms by a 150-year-old family firm from the region of St-Etienne, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. The Black Bay Chrono model presents a black strap, chosen by TUDOR and woven by the firm. The model is also available with a steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of TUDOR watches produced in the 1950's and 60's.

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These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the new model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Finally, in a spirit of 1970's racing, the Black Bay Chrono offers a bund type option in brown aged leather with ecru stitching and a folding clasp.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950's. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as "snowflake" that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers' watches, is also adopted in this model.

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The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers' watches and yet remains firmly anchored in the present.

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Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today's most rigorous requirements.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Black Bay S&G

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Reference M79363N

CASE
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: Fixed yellow gold bezel with matt black anodised aluminium disc with tachymetric scale, yellow gold markings
Winding crown:
Yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
DIAL
Black with champagne-coloured counters, domed
Date at 6 o'clock
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5813,
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Total diameter: 30.4 mm
Thickness: 7.23 mm
Jewels: 41 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
FUNCTIONS
Central hour and minute hands
Chronograph seconds in the centre
Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
Instantaneous date at 6 o'clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting
BRACELET
Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet, polished and satin finish, or in brown leather with
removable bund, with folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with buckle

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Press Release - 2019
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GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Neo Bridges “Earth to Sky” Edition

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – BRIDGES Neo Bridges “Earth to Sky” Titanium Black 45mm Limited Edition

Blue as the Earth. Black as the cosmos.

In 2019, Girard-Perregaux is instating a symbolic dialogue with the universe and presenting a series of exceptional timepieces whose nature – thanks to a play of blue and black tones – is gliding towards an astronomical dimension. 

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Earth to Sky, 2019 theme of the year.

An estimated 13.8 billion years after the expansion of the universe, Girard-Perregaux raises its eyes to infinity with all its light, shadow and mystery. As part of a new approach, the brand is engaging in a dialogue between earth and sky, between matter and space. It explores the boundaries of its expertise, unveils the invisible and reveals that which was previously hidden. Its science of finishing and materials is shown in a new light, including by leveraging the light of blackness. Science and art, photons and matter: Girard-Perregaux's search for beauty is entering an astrophysical and metaphorical dimension.

Contemporary reinterpretation of a great brand classic

At the exact confluence of two worlds, where tradition meets innovation, the Neo Bridges automatic watch first and foremost embodies an approach dramatising the architecture of a movement that dates back more than 150 years*. This mechanism has constantly evolved with the times and is now rightfully considered the historical signature of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux.

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This year, as part of the "Earth to Sky" theme, it appears once again in titanium, but in an even more distinguished and assertive version thanks to the black DLC coating of its 45 mm-diameter case. It is fitted with a rubber-patterned genuine alligator leather strap secured by a triple titanium folding clasp adding a new touch.

The dynamics of balance

In keeping with its longstanding tradition, Manufacture Girard-Perregaux has equipped this model with the tried and trusted mechanical movement GP08400-0002. Perfectly symmetrical thanks to the judicious alignment of the micro-rotor with the barrel drum ensuring a minimum 54-hour reserve, this movement instantly draws the gaze.

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The architectural nature of the structure is reinforced by contemporary finishing including a blue PVD coating on the barrel cover and micro-rotor, as well as a black PVD treatment adorning the delicately curved bridges and plate bridges. This sophisticated graphic design exercises an almost mesmerising effect due to the presence at 6 o'clock, of a large 10.15 mm diameter variable-inertia balance wheel oscillating at 3 Hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour). Due to its size, the latter is less subject to disturbances and therefore more accurate.

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The absence of a dial fully reveals the captivating construction, while a ring with suspended hour- markers sets the perfect finishing touch. The box-type sapphire crystal specially developed for this model – requiring nearly ten times more material than usual – makes it possible to capture the light and direct it towards the heart of the movement. Finally, the transparent sapphire crystal caseback reveals the inner workings of the fascinating 208-component mechanism.

About DLC treatment

DLC treatment is a surface coating that consists of the deposition of carbon and diamond particles by a physical and chemical process. In addition to the black colour and its subtle anthracite grey reflections provided by the treatment, the multiple layers applied to the titanium ensure better protection of the case against corrosion.

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*The Neo Bridges Automatic Titanium "Earth to Sky" Edition is based on the architectural construction codes dear to Constant Girard, creator of the Esmeralda pocket watch that won first prize at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1889.

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It also reflects the theatrical nature of the creations by Jean-François Bautte – who in the late 18th century designed watchmaking instruments that adopted a playful approach to time display, demystified the passage of time and transformed watches into pure works of kinetic art.

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This pocket-watch with its fascinating tourbillon movement was later named “La Esmeralda”. Over the months before the International Exhibition, it had achieved some remarkable test results at the Neuchâtel Observatory in Switzerland, attested by the institution’s issue of its rating certificate. Then, at the exhibition, it was awarded a gold medal by the jury who recognised the perfection, both technical and aesthetic, of this extraordinary timepiece.

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The watch bears the name of the luxury Mexican boutique of the agents Hauser and Zivy, to whom it was entrusted for a while. Then “La Esmeralda” is thought to have passed into the ownership of the President of Mexico, Porfirio Diaz (1830-1915) who led the country from 1876 to 1911.

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Finally, at the end of the 1960s, the pocket-chronometer was acquired from the president’s great grandson and it now crowns the collections of the Girard-Perregaux museum.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: BRIDGES 

Model: Neo Bridges “Earth to Sky” Edition

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Reference: 84000-21-632-BH6A


Movement
Reference: GP08400-002
Winding: mechanical self-winidng
Diameter: 32.00 mm (14¼’’’)
Thickness: 5.45 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 54 hours
Number of components: 208
Jewels: 29
Functions: Hours, minutes 
Case
Material: sandblasted titanium with black DLC coating
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 12.18 mm
Glass: glareproofed sapphire crystal
Case-back: sapphire crystal 
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial
No dial.
Skeleton, no dial, but instead a ring with suspended hour-markers
Hands: skeletonised, ‘Dauphine’ type,  openworked with luminescent material
Strap
Material: Rubber-patterned matt black alligator leather, blue topstitching
Buckle: DLC-coated titanium triple folding clasp


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Press release - 2019
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Press Contact:
Manager: Ivanne Perrinjaquet, iperrinjaquet@girard-perregaux.ch

Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com

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