Monday, April 1, 2019

AkriviA – AK-06 Chronometre


AkriviAAK-06 Chronometre Openworked Dial Gold

Rexhep Rexhepi takes AkriviA into new territory with the AK-06, the first timepiece from our workshop to venture beyond the tourbillon. The basis of this movement comes from the powerful Tourbillon Chiming Jump-Hour AK-03. The AK-06 is reworked to focus purely on time-telling without complication, and to highlight its impressive 100-hour power reserve.

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Another first for AkriviA is the dial-free design. Openworked dials are not new for AkriviA, but the AK-06 brings things to a new level by selectively showcasing all the components relating to the power reserve and its indication. As with all our creations, the philosophical core is positioned at twelve o’clock.

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In the AK-01, it was the column wheel; in the AK-03, it was the strike hammer. In the AK-06, the power reserve display takes this position, along with the counter-balanced racks that neutralise the marginal load of the power reserve display and optimise energy flow towards the balance. In this way, the mystery of high watchmaking is partially opened to the wearer as the mainspring is wound or unwinds, and the mechanism reveals itself.

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Compared to previous models, the tourbillon opening mounted at 6 o’clock has been slightly enlarged and is framed in highly polished, mirror-like steel, making all the parts of the tourbillon escapement and its cage sparkle every second during its rotation. The barrette styled tourbillon bridge is a virtuoso piece of watchmaking skill that has become a trademark of AkriviA’s models so far ; its open worked, filigreed arch is testament to the precision and surety of the watchmaker’s hand and eye, painstakingly crafting a perfect finish on every available surface.

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The inspirational motivation behind this new interpretation of a power reserve timepiece complication was guided by the emotional responses of clients who experience the most intimate moments with their timepiece during the act of winding their watch up. This connection between the human and the machine is showcased by a completely skeletonized power reserve and hand setting mechanism. It allows all the mechanical parts involved in these functions to be visually interactive for the user, acting as a kinetic ballet of time’s passing, adding an extra dimension to the regular motion of the hour and minute hands.

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The steel hands are manually blued on a bed of heated brass filings in a slow process designed to produce an even hue.


Until now, all the design and finishing aspects of the AkriviA Collection’s movements were only visible from the back. With the AK-06, all the many hours of attention given to miniscule details can now be experienced with every glance at the dial.

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The heart of the movement is designed with the same attention to details and also expresses Rexhep Rexhepi’s love of mechanical symmetry found on the dial side. The oversized center wheel is mounted in a special jewel on its own bridge at the epicenter of the AK-06’s baseplate. This epicentric location of the center wheel is a typical characteristic of all watches by the AkriviA atelier to date, and is equally complemented by the perfectly proportioned going train and balance wheel with its micro-adjusters, occupying separate bridges adorned with perfect, hand executed anglage.

The movement architecture layout, the curves of the bridges, their visual balance and placement, size and proportions, everything has to reveal a unified concept. This beauty of the movement itself was always a source of pride and a distinguishing feature in the tradition of Geneva watchmaking.

A stable and long power reserve is always an added benefit to promoting excellent chronometric results. However, setting the time is often overlooked as a source of inaccuracies. For this reason, the AK-06 movement has a combined stop seconds and seconds reset functionality. The combination of these two results in a very rare ‘mini-complication’ that is rarely found in wristwatches today.

A normal stop seconds function to promote setting the time accurately is well known in watchmaking; however the 0-seconds reset in the AK-06 is an expression of a love and deep respect for timekeeping accuracy.

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Through the use of a small heart piece, very similar to that found in the resetting mechanism of chronographs, the reset seconds hammer returns the seconds to ‘0’ simultaneously with the stop seconds function. That is to say, these two functions work in perfect harmony with the simple action of pulling out the crown. This makes extremely accurate time setting to the second a very simple affair for the user.

Although the fine finishing of a watch is an art form unto itself, it also fulfills practical functions. The visual effect of all the effort is of course beautiful to behold, but in fact, finishing changes the atomic structure of the outer layers of the metal itself, by simultaneously hardening the surface and sealing it off from the reception of microscopic amounts of moisture, dirt and possible oil from the interior of the movement. It is in fact an act of love with an eye to the longevity and protection of the watch to a time far into the future.

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This is also why extreme high-quality finishing is at the heart of the AkriviA atelier philosophy. Looking closely at the movement, you will see that the anglage created on the edges of all parts is rounded in what is called a bombé cross section, in opposition to the standard and fully or partially machine created anglage used today throughout Switzerland at large manufactures. This technique of rounded edges is much more time consuming to produce and cannot be prepared in advance by the use of machines.

Starting with the basic flat piece of material with 90∘ angled edges, one of the first steps is to create a rounded edge by filing the edges into shape in several steps, which perfectly follows the edge outline equidistantly into every curve and corner.

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Furthermore, all sinks for the jewels also have a bowl-shaped cross section, directly complementing this bombé effect of the rounded anglage. This is followed by multiple steps of further finishing and polishing with a series of special wooden sticks covered in abrasive material as well as the natural wood itself.

From the raw parts to finally finished parts, here is a general overview of the steps required to create perfectly finished watch parts and movement:
  • . Primary quality control of each machined piece
  • . Preparation of upper and of lower sinks
  • . Grinding of movement underside and sides followed by filing
  • . Geneva stripes are executed
  • . Anglage grinding of curved and straight parts
  • . Anglage filing of curved and straight parts, including edges
  • . Anglage polishing of all filed edges in several steps
  • . Polishing of sinks
  • . Black polish surface polishing where required
  • . Final polishing using a stick of the Gentian plant for the highest gloss. 

This plant grows freely in the mountainsides of the valley, and has been used for centuries in such work. The softer, inner layer of the wood is used together with diamond paste in order to achieve an extremely high gloss finish. Such finishing is absolutely impossible to achieve with the standard use of electric tools or via CNC machining.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: AK-06


Model AK-06 Chronometre

Movement
New manual-winding AK-06 movement – created,
developed, decorated and assembled in-house.
100 hours power reserve using a jeweled, single barrel.
(With stop seconds and 0-seconds reset function).
Movement dimensions: Ø 30.00 MM
Jewels: 28
Balance wheel: In-house developed variable inertia balance wheel (10.5 mm) using 4 adjustable weights combined with Breguet overcoil.
Frequency: 18,000 VPH (2.5 Hz)
Decoration:
The entire movement’s visible and non-visible parts have been hand-finished to the highest Genevan traditions usingseveral traditional techniques: black polish, Côtes de Genève, hand polished and brushed surfaces, Rhodium treatment, beading and hand engraving and entirely handmade anglage.
Case
Dimensions:  41mm x 9.9mm
Made of three parts with screwed case back and alternate polished and brushed finishing
Glare proofed front sapphire; see-through case back with sapphire
Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 meters)
Display
Hours, minute, seconds, power reserve indicator
Bracelet
Dark blue calf leather
Tang buckle
Lug width 21 mm

Chronometer certification
On client’s request and an additional cost the watch can be Chronometer certified by the Besançon Observatory. With this option the watch is being delivered with a “Bulletin de marche de chronométrie” after a thorough testing of the complete watch during 16 days consecutive days.
Warranty
3 years. 
Any necessary work performed under guarantee extends the duration of it by one year.

Price
Price of CHF 79,000 for the stainless steel version,
CHF 83,000 for a titanium case,
CHF 87,000 for 5N rose gold and CHF 92,000 for platinum.

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Press Release - 2019
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Sunday, March 31, 2019

Bell & Ross – BR03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic














Bell & RossINSTRUMENTS BR03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic Automatic - 2019

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A WATCH FOR PROFESSIONALS

The watchmaking brand Bell & Ross – the ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation watches – has defied all codes by designing an icon inspired by the clocks in the cockpit of an airplane: a circle within a square.

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WATCHES PERFECTLY TAILORED 
TO THEIR ENVIRONMENT

When one explores the ocean, when the pressure rises as one navigates its depths, when an instrument’s readability is a mat-ter of survival, Bell & Ross’ diving watches offer a professional, reliable and rugged solution to an environment that is as fasci-nating as it is dangerous.

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Each Bell & Ross watch is designed to match its specific envi-ronment. For divers, Bell & Ross has developed tools that are perfectly suited for underwater exploration.

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They are capable of effectively assisting divers under all circumstances. Legible, functional, accurate, robust and reliable, they meet the specific demands of professionals on the job.

CUTTING-EDGE TOOLS

Bell & Ross’ marine expertise is the result of the collective expe-rience and the knowledge of its designers, master watchmakers and professional users.

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Bell & Ross has a strong history of manufacturing watches for the marine realm. The HYDROMAX®, designed in 1997, holds one of the most impressive records for water-resistance to 11,100 meters. In 2002 the two-counter DIVER 300 Chronograph was developed, followed by the BR02 range that was launched in 2007.

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In 2017 Bell & Ross made a strong impression in the diving world with its BR03-92 Diver that boasts the iconic BR square and functional lines. It reaffirms the brand’s ability to produce professional underwater instruments.

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The BR03-92 square diving watch has become a collection in its own right and now expands to include two new versions, the BR03-92 Diver Black Matte and the BR03-92 Diver Green Bronze.

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THE ISO 6425 STANDARD:
SAFETY FIRST

Not every watch can be an «underwater watch». Official regulations set out very precise criteria defining a true diving watch.

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The ISO 6425 standard lists a great number of obligatory technical pa-rameters.

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Those include water-resistance to a minimum depth of 100 meters; the presence of a unidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated minutes scale, an operation indicator and lumines-cent markers; legibility in the dark; anti-shock and anti-magnetic protection.


INTRODUCING BLACK CERAMIC INTO 
THE DIVER COLLECTION

This new model in the BR03 DIVER collection, clad in its ceramic uniform, once again underlines the brand’s avant-garde vision.

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DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM 
THE MILITARY STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGIES

The matte black ceramic is perfectly in tune with the aeronauti-cal codes so crucial to the Bell & Ross philosophy. In the world of aeronautics, and especially space, ceramic is predominantly used in manufacturing parts that are subjected to very high temperatures, acid attacks, corrosion and erosion. As a result, it is found in products such as thermal shields and aerospace rocket’s noses.

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As part of its on-going quest for excellence, Bell & Ross has reworked the high-tech ceramic and developed a special man-ufacturing process in its workshops.

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It enhances the intrinsic qualities of this material, which is virtually scratch-proof, pleas-ant to wear, soft to the touch and thermo-regulated, instantly reaching body temperature when worn. Almost as tough as a diamond, the high-tech ceramic developed by Bell & Ross is incredibly hardwearing, non-deformable, lighter than steel and hypoallergenic.


A NEW TOOL FOR PURISTS

Reminiscent of the antireflective finish used on air-craft instrument panels, the matte black ceramic is perfectly in tune with the aeronautical codes so fundamental to Bell & Ross. The sober design, black dial, large white numerals, shape of the hands and photoluminescent coating allow immediate reading of the time, in broad daylight as well in darkness.

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This new ceramic model reaffirms the brand’s func-tional and utilitarian approach and emphasizes its pioneering vision. By introducing a high-tech ma-terial in its professional underwater instruments, Bell & Ross has created a new must-have tool-watch, and reinterprets the original values of the iconic BR 01.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: INSTRUMENTS

Model: BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic

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Ref:  BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement:
Calibre BR-CAL.302
Functions
hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case
42 mm diameter
Matt black ceramic
Unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with 60-minute scale. 
Dial
Black.
Metal applique skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled numerals and indices.
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven Black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Black PVD* coated steel.

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Press Release - 2019
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