VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar - Pièce Unique

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Gold 42 mm - Pièce Unique

SIHH2019: 

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calenda

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•     A one-of-a-kind model created by the Les Cabinotiers department
•     Calibre 1731 QP: a revisited Grand Complication movement exclusive to Les Cabinotiers collection
•     An elegant and refined design perpetuating the Vacheron Constantin style

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In the 18th century, the most experienced Geneva watchmakers exercised their talent in light-filled workshops called ‘cabinets’, located on the top floor of the city’s buildings. Crafting extraordinary complicated bespoke watches, these alchemists of time came to be known as ‘cabinotiers’. Accomplished masters of their art, they cultivated a blend of technical and manual skills backed by vast scientific knowledge and curiosity for new ideas, nurtured by the philosophy of the Age of Enlightenment.

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In response to the highest technical, aesthetic and artistic challenges, the one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin models now crafted in its Les Cabinotiers department, heir to this prestigious past, are a delight to the most demanding connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie. The new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, driven by an unprecedented calibre, is a further illustration of this exclusive approach.

A Fine Watchmaking movement 
inspired by a legacy of historical calibres

The one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar is equipped with a revisited movement: Calibre 1731 QP, combining minute repeater and perpetual calendar functions at the heart of a delightfully slender 42 mm-diameter gold case.

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The challenge for the in-house watchmakers lays in pairing two of the most sophisticated horological complications within an ultra-thin movement measuring just 5.70 mm thick, while ensuring precision, reliability and user friendliness. Among the technical feats accompanying the origins of this watch, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department developed a perfectly silent strike governor serving to control the cadence of the hammers in striking the gongs.

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No less than 438 components, some of them no thicker than a hair’s breadth, compose this sophisticated horological ‘alchemy’ within a mechanical manual-winding movement.

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Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and endowed with a 65-hour power reserve, it drives the full set of hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap-year indication, moon phase and minute repeater functions.

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Being the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous activity also means possessing an incredibly rich heritage. It is by drawing on this past and basing itself on the transmission of horological excellence and stylistic research that the Maison consistently defies time.

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Any new Vacheron Constantin creation begins with imagining watches bearing a real technical and aesthetic signature.

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The new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar model is thus the latest in a line of watches that have made their mark on their respective eras. In 1992, Vacheron Constantin presented reference 30020, an exceptional creation combining an hours, quarters and minutes repeating mechanism with a perpetual calendar.

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In 2013, the Maison launched the famous Calibre 1731, whose name pays tribute to the birth year of Jean-Marc Vacheron: an extremely slim manual-winding minute repeater movement inspired by historical calibres.

Pure lines, mechanical complexity

Despite the complexity of this watch, Vacheron Constantin was determined to make it a model cultivating the elegance, discretion and other aesthetic values that have become its signature. The 42 mm-diameter case in white or pink gold features extremely pure lines. Only the minute repeater slide on the left-hand side of the case expresses the complexity of this model and testifies to its ability to set an audible cadence for time.

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The gleam of the precious polished metal beautifully frames the deep colour of the midnight blue or brown dial, depending on the version. The day, date and month indications, appearing in the upper part of the dial, are displayed in an extremely legible manner, and thereby leave plenty of space for the gold Moon to pursue its poetic dance amid the stars, against a beautifully understated backdrop.

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This arrangement of the various dial indications ensures a pleasingly balanced and elegant watch face, while the blue and brown colour lends a dynamic and modern touch.

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TECHNICAL DATA

LES CABINOTIERS

Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar - Pièce Unique

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REFERENCE 6610C/000G-B511
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REFERENCE 6610C/000R-B510




MOVEMENT
CALIBRE 1731 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.80 mm diameter, 5.70 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
438 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS Hours, minutes

• Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
• Moon phases
• Minute Repeater

CASE  

• 18K white gold
• 18K 5N pink gold

42 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
DIAL 

• Blue opaline dial

18K white gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K white gold
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• Brown opaline dial

18K 5N pink gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K 5N pink gold
STRAP 

• Dark blue 
• Dark brown

Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
BUCKLE

• 18K white gold folding clasp
• 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

BOX Les Cabinotiers winding-box made of Makassar ebony wood, interior in Nabuka
ACCESSORIES Delivered with a corrector pen


Unique timepiece - One-of-a-kind timepiece
“Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback


#VacheronConstantin
#VCSIHH
#SIHH2019

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Press Release - 2019
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Moritz Grossmann – ATUM GMT Gold - 2019

Moritz Grossmann – ATUM GMT Gold 41mm - 2019

Moritz Grossmann GMT – At home in two time zones

With the GMT, the Glashütte manufactory
Moritz Grossmann presents its first two time zone watch

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⦁    Precisely readable 24-hour scale with arrow indicator for the second time zone
⦁    Comfortable switching adjustment via a second crown at 10 o’clock
⦁    Available in rose gold and white gold with three dial variants
⦁    Presentation of the GMT and the new product video as part of the Moritz

With the GMT, the independent Glashütte manufactory Moritz Grossmann presents its first watch model with two time zones. This function is in great demand among watch connoisseurs who travel a lot. A glance at the GMT provides orientation in different time zones and in an extremely stylish way.

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Thanks to the classic, functional design of the watch, the two time zones stand out clearly from each other. The 12 hour scale in the middle of the dial shows the first time. It is framed by the outer 24-hour scale for the second time. This allows you to see at a glance whether it is day or night in the country in the other time zone.

24-hour display with quick adjustment

The second time zone with 24 Arabic numerals is designed as an outer circumferential scale. A separate hand element in compact arrow form shows the respective hour. A separate setting crown at 10 o’clock allows the arrow indicator to be quickly adjusted in hourly increments both forwards and backwards. The 12-hour display in the centre of the dial remains unaffected by this.

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The 24-hour display is transmitted to the time zone ring via a complex system of gear wheels and always runs in accordance with the centre time. The 24-hour display also follows the 12-hour hand when the centre time is set using the crown.

Calibre 100.8

The GMT is equipped with the calibre 100.8 in a high-artistic finish and the sapphire crystal back reveals the elaborate mechanics of the calibre. It features the characteristic components of the Moritz Grossmann movements, such as the 2/3 plate with the raised gold chatons, the Grossmann ratchet, the separately removable winding unit with pusher mechanism and the cantilevered balance cock with micrometer screw, as well as the mass-optimised balance.

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On the GMT, the mechanism for the second time is integrated into the movement on the dial side. The 24-hour display is transmitted via the hour wheel of the centre time to another hour wheel and an intermediate wheel to the ring of the second time zone.

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The second time zone display can be adjusted via the second crown at 10 o'clock. A ratchet wheel with ratchet spring is used to adjust the time in the pre-defined hourly gearshifts.

Dial and hands

The case is available in either rose or white gold. A dial in brilliant argenté emphasises the clarity of the design in the rose and white gold version. The white gold model features a dial in champagne tone for a warm colour accent.

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The 24-hour scale with blue Arabic numerals and matching arrow indicator harmoniously stands out from the 12-hour scale in the centre of the dial. Here, the unique lance-shaped hands provide the characteristic accent. They are handcrafted in the manufactory, finished and annealed in dark brown. For the white gold model with argenté opaline dial, the entire set of hands is polished stainless steel.

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With the GMT, the independent Glashütte manufactory is enriching its collection with a long-awaited time zone watch that beautifully reflects the very essence of the much-travelled cosmopolitan, polyglot writer and aesthete Moritz Grossmann. The clear design, the advanced mechanics and the perfection of the craftsmanship represent Schönstes deutsches Handwerk in a unique way and bear witness to the highest level of skill inherent in Grossmann’s timepieces.

“On the road” – experience the GMT exclusively in person!

Moritz Grossmann will present the new models and other innovations from the manufactory as part of its international roadshow in 2019. Following the launch in Dubai on 30 January 2019, further stops in Tokyo, Hong Kong and London will be on the programme from March to June.

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Further details about the Roadshow 2019 can be found here: ▶️ http://bit.ly/2UDaPZM

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Technical Specifications

Collection ATUM GMT Gold

The GMT is available in three versions:

• GMT rose gold, reference MG-002154, argenté dial
• GMT white gold, reference MG-002225, argenté dial
• GMT white gold, reference MG-002155, champagne dial

Technical Specifications:

Movement
Manufactory  calibre  100.8,  manual  winding, regulated  in  five positions
No. of parts    253
Jewels    26 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement Lever escapement
Oscillator
Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, 

Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve,
Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance   
Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve 42 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds,
second time zone (24-hour display) by means of revolving hand,
Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features
Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement
with lateral pusher; second time zone (24-hour display) by means of
exterior revolving hand, time zone display that can be corrected
backwards and forwards at any time using the separate crown at 10
o’clock; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash;
adjustment  with  Grossmann  micrometer  screw  on  cantilevered
balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of
untreated German  silver; balance  cock and  escape-wheel cock
hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing
on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws;
separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for
hand setting
Operating elements
Two crowns in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time and
the date, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch
Case dimensions   
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.85 mm
Case Three-part, precious metal
Dial
Solid silver, hour markers in gold
Hands Manually crafted, in steel, for two variants annealed in brown
Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap 
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal
Versions:

• Reference MG-002154

Case 750/000 rose gold
Dial argenté
Hands Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown hue

• Reference MG-002225

Case 750/000 white gold
Dial argenté
Hands Manually crafted, polished stainless steel

• Reference MG-002155

Case 750/000 white gold
Dial champagne
Hands Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown hue

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Press Release - 2019
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PRESS CONTACT:
Sandra Behrens – Communication Manager
Uferstr. 1
01768 Glashütte
Tel: 0049-35053-320020
Fax: 0049-35053-320099
E-Mail: sandra.behrens@grossmann-uhren.com
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