Thursday, September 20, 2018

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Perpetual CALENDAR Special Edition


AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Perpetual CALENDAR Gold 41mm Special Edition


Royal Oak Perpetual CALENDAR 
ONE Night for ONE Drop Special Edition - Unique pieces

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Proceeds to benefit One Drop in its mission 
to raise awareness for critical water issues

LAS VEGAS On Friday, March 2, some of the biggest names in music came together to support the sixth annual One Night for One Drop event imagined by Cirque du Soleil®, raising funds and awareness to benefit critical water issues worldwide.

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Held inside the Michael Jackson ONE Theatre at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino in Las Vegas, this year's production was inspired by the life of GRAMMY®-nominated singer-songwriter Jewel.

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As part of the evening's live auction, one of the highlights was Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar unique piece. The 18-carat rose gold watch featured the most classic complication in all of watchmaking with a special oscillating weight engraved with a reproduction of the historical Audemars Piguet Manufacture.

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Making the piece a true one-of-a-kind was the reversed dial and counter tones. When the hammer finally came down, the price was $240,000 making it the evening's top performing lot. In total, the evening raised $1,156,060. All proceeds from the event will benefit One Drop's global water efforts, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Las Vegas Community.

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Presented by MGM Resorts International, the electrifying, one-night-only performance captivated the sold-out audience by taking them through pivotal moments of Jewel's life and making them relatable using popular themes such as family, love, betrayal and the courage to forgive.

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Breathtaking performances by artists from all seven resident Cirque du Soleil shows accompanied Jewel. Guests were then invited to enjoy performances by Nicholas Petricca of the popular pop/rock band Walk The Moon.

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AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Perpetual CALENDAR Latin America Gold 41 mm Limited Edition

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AUDEMARS PIGUET CELEBRATES HAUTE 
HORLOGERIE MILESTONE IN MEXICO

For Audemars Piguet, astronomical observation has always been an inspiration in creating exceptional masterpieces to measure time. Such inspiration gave birth to the Perpetual Calendar complication, one of the most iconic complications in the history of Haute Horlogerie.

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Since its founding, in 1875, the Manufacture of Le Brassus has improved its horological interpretation of stellar rotation to measure, with absolute precision, the minutes, hours, days, weeks, months and years, including leap years, as well as the phases of the moon.

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The creation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Latin America Edition marks a fresh opportunity to share this fascination for horological achievement with collectors, brand friends and retailers, perpetuating the Audemars Piguet legacy in the world of Haute Horlogerie. This true masterpiece, limited to 100 pieces in pink gold, has a pink gold dial with the “Grande Tapisserie” motif and blue hemispheres. Engraved with “Audemars Piguet”, its oscillating weight is a reminder that the history of time measurement is also a story of human know-how.

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The celebration of this special edition was marked by a dinner created by Mexican chef Enrique Olvera in the sumptuous setting of the Tamayo Museum in Mexico City, one of the city’s most iconic and emblematic cultural venues. Guests enjoyed an unforgettable evening where they saw for themselves the role that astronomy has played in stretching the bounds of human ingenuity.

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Antonio Seward, Audemars Piguet North America CEO, explained that the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Latin America Edition is reflects the Manufacture’s strong relationship with the region, a sympathy that has existed for many decades, long before the current enthusiasm for Haute Horlogerie. “We dedicate this watch to Latin America with love. We share the same pioneering spirit!” said Seward.

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During dinner, guests were shown notable examples from the more than 100 years that Audemars Piguet has dedicated to constant improvement in creating and developing perpetual calendars. An example from the XXth century was a gold and platinum pocket watch with a cushion shape case, engraved and dated (1954) for President Dwight D. Eisenhower.

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One of the most popular topics of the evening concerned the evolution of the pocket watch into the wristwatch, a fascinating process of progressive miniaturisation that started on a large scale in the 1920s and implied technical advances such as new mechanisms designed to indicate leap years on the dial. A remarkable example from 1957 was shown, for which the13VZSSQP Calibre was created.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET – “Triple Calendar Chronograph” 
Moon combined with lunar calendar - Ref. 46’540 (1941-1942)
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The savoir-faire of the Manufacture was referenced through different highlights, like the design of the thinnest perpetual calendar of the world, from 1978, a creation by Jaqueline Dimier; the incorporation of a ring that indicates 52 weeks of the year in the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 120th Anniversary, from 1995;

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Audemars Piguet Museum is Perpetual Valendar Platinum and yellow gold pocket-watch, 1922
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the introduction of super-sized watch cases in 1997 that propelled the project of the Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar and Chronograph, as well as the fabrication of the extra-thin selfwinding movement, like the one of the Perpetual Calendar Extra Thin from 1995, equipped with a 3.19 millimetre 2003/2805 Calibre.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: Royal Oak Perpetual CALENDAR Latin America Edition 
Limited Edition to 100 pieces.

Reference:
26584OR.OO.1220OR.01

Movement
Self winding Manufacture Calibre 5134
Frequency of balance wheel (Hz): 2.75 (=19,800 vibrations /h)
Total diameter: 29 mm (12’’’ 3/4 lignes)
Total thickness: 4.31mm
Number of jewels: 38  
Number of parts: 374
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 40h
Unique hand-finished oscillating mass
Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date,
astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Case
18-carat pink gold case
Case 41 mm
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown.
Pink gold-toned inner bezel.
Dial
Pink gold-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern,
blue counters, pink gold applied hour-markers
Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.
Additional blue alligator strap

Limited Edition of 100 Piece

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Press Release - 2018
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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www.facebook.com - Audemars Piguet
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www.AudemarsPiguet.com

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

F.P.Journe – SONNERIE SOUVERAINE Minute Repeater














F.P.Journe – Grande SONNERIE SOUVERAINE Minute Repeater Steel 42mm - Unique piece


HOROLOGICAL WORLD PREMIERE: 
DISCOVER THE BINAURAL SOUND OF 
THE SONNERIE SOUVERAINE

In horological World Premiere, discover the binaural sound of the Sonnerie Souveraine F.P.Journe, recorded in the anechoic chamber of the EPFL. A unique experience which provides a total immersion in the heart of this exceptional striking watch’s movement.

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Binaural is a recording technique performed to create a three-dimensional sound. For the binaural recording of the Sonnerie Souveraine, F.P.Journe used artificial ears with microphones. In the choice of components up to the shapes and proportions, everything is designed in this device to reproduce a sound as close as possible to a human experience.

For this horological World Premiere, F.P.Journe invested the EPFL anechoic chamber in Lausanne. The EPFL is one of Switzerland's two federal polytechnics school, and the most innovative and productive scientific institution in the world. All the walls (including the floor) of the 200 m2 anechoic chamber is entirely covered with 1 meter high glass wool dihedral, allowing an optimal absorption of sound.

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In order to delve into the heart of the mechanics of the Sonnerie Souveraine F.P.Journe and reach the soul of this marvel of technicality, we invite you to download the file and  to wear headphones to truly live this unique experience.


The SONNERIE SOUVERAINE F.P.Journe

The Grande Sonnerie watch with minute repeater is the most complex of horological creations, one that demands the very utmost in both technical and artistic virtuosity for the watchmaker in charge of its assembly. In the past, it has always been risky to use a Grande Sonnerie watch. The slightest error – for example, adjusting the time while the watch is chiming – could seriously damage the watch’s delicate mechanisms.

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Therefore, the first entry in F.P.Journe’s specification book for this watch was: “make the watch so that an eight year old child can manipulate it safely without damaging it. To meet this challenge I had to construct a movement based on new mechanical principles". Thus, according to the brand’s motto, ten patents testify to the “Invenit” of this work of watchmaking art, while the “Fecit” took six years of research and development.


GRAND-STRIKE CLOCKWATCH 
AND MINUTE REPEATER

The privilege of a Grande Sonnerie watch is to translate time in music. The Maison Journe who became an expert in the mastery of the resonance striking watch, is aware of the importance of acoustic waves in the art of the time measurement. It demonstrates its mastery when it comes to retransmit time in sounds.

The sound signal emitted by the extra-flat gongs of 3/10 of a millimeter has been treated with as much importance as the function mode of this mechanism which requires a very specific hammer strike. Indeed, the striking weight of the hammer of the Grande Sonnerie is of 0.3 grams. This force is, to give an estimate, between 10 and 15 times less than that used to strike a classical minute repeater.

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However, because the acoustics work has been particularly meticulous and the technical solutions perfectly adapted to this type of complication, the Sonnerie Souveraine F.P.Journe produces a better sound than any equivalent striking timepiece. In addition, a new selection mode by the 4-hour button allows you to choose between three options: Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie and Silence. The pusher at 2 o'clock activates the Minute Repeater on demand.

For its striking watches, F.P.Journe has exceptionally abandoned precious metals for its cases for a noble cause, to ensure the best possible striking tones that make optimal use of the crystalline structure of Steel.

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The Sonnerie Souveraine received the Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2006. It was also named Watch of the Year at the Grand Prize of Japan in 2006.

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Anticipating the presentation of a new grand complication in 2019, the emblematic Sonnerie Souveraine F.P.Journe will no longer be in the catalogue as from December 31, 2018. Clients are invited to place their order during the year 2018 to acquire this already rare and unique watch that will thus become a collector’s timepiece. The F.P.Journe Manufacture will of course honor all orders placed by its clients.


10 Patents for the SONNERIE SOUVERAINE

Barrel
A single barrel drives both the going-train and the strike-train from each end of the mainspring.
The barrel’s drum, fixed to the outer end of the mainspring coil, has a toothed edge to drive the going-train. The barrel’s arbor, fixed to the inner end of the mainspring, turns a toothed wheel that drives the strike-train through unidirectional gearing.
Power reserve indicator
A mainspring that unwinds both through the barrel and the arbor requires a sophisticated power-reserve indicator.
The power-reserve indicator has three coaxial differentials. The top differential forms the link between the arbor and the barrel. The lower differential moves according to the winding or unwinding of the arbor. A third differential forms the link between the first two differentials to show the mean power-reserve of the mainspring.
Winding and setting system
The compact winding and setting system does away with the long stem and sliding-pinion, and finds its place under the dial.
In this system, the crown-wheel is permanently meshed with the transmission-wheel mounted coaxially on a rocking arm. The winding-stem slides through a square in the centre of the crown-wheel.

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The transmission-wheel drives intermediate-wheels for winding and for setting the time, mounted at either end of the rocking arm.
Pulling out the winding-stem makes the pullout piece pivot the arm to mesh the intermediate-wheels with the minute-wheel for setting the hands.
With the stem in the winding position, the torque produced by the winding action on the transmission wheel, swings the rocking arm to mesh intermediate wheel with the winding ratchet.
Strike selection
Controlled by a column wheel, the mechanism to select and indicate the strike mode performs its duties with the minimum of parts.
The rotating column-wheel acts on three levers: the lever to select grand strike or small strike, the lever to select silence and the sprung rocking-arm that indicates the selected strike mode on the dial via a rack and pinion.
Pressing the strike-select button makes rocking-arm lift the sprung pawl. The pawl pulls the 12-toothed wheel step by step to rotate the column-wheel through consecutive cycles of actions.
The striking racks
The construction of the movement, with the hours and minutes off-centre, allows the striking-racks to be mounted in the centre of the movement. This in turn makes possible outsize racks for greater precision and control.

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The strike is governed by three coaxially mounted racks: for the hours for the quarters and for the minutes. Each has ratchet toothing to activate the hammers. When the strike is released, the racks drop on their respective cams. They are then immediately engaged by the strike-train and lifted to the end of their travel. As the racks lift, their outer teeth engage the gathering-pallets to strike the gongs. The distance each rack is lifted, thus number of teeth presented to activate the strike, depends on its starting point on its cam.
The strike sequence
The hours-rack has a toothed sector where it is engaged by the strike-train. The teeth are permanently meshed with a free pinion, rotating coaxially on the fixed pinion of the strike-train. To lift the rack, the rocking clutch-pinion engages the free and fixed pinions, locking them together, and transferring the drive from the strike-train to the rack.
When the clutch-pinion disengages, the sprung-rack brings the rack’s finger down on the cam.
Strike release
Every quarter hour, a tooth on the star-wheel pivots the trigger against its spring to set in motion the chime in passing. The trigger acts through sprung levers to disengage the rocking arm from the pivoting clutch. This frees the pinion to allow the racks to fall on their cams. The spring then returns the rocking arm against the pivoting clutch (o re-engage pinion to lift the racks.
The minute-repeating strike is released by pressing button. The pivoting levers act on the rocking arm to disengage the clutch and allow the racks to fall.
Chiming gongs
This new design produces a louder, clearer sound from gongs that are just three-tenths of a millimetre thick. Mounting the gongs on the movement instead of around it increases the diameter of the movement.

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The gongs for a chiming mechanism consist of a flat blade one end of which can be fastened to the structure of the watch. The free part of the blade is shaped so that its natural frequency is audible when its edge is struck.
Blocking the strike automatically
The chimes are automatically blocked to reserve the last 24 hours of the mainspring’s energy to the movement.
A cam, working off the power-reserve differential, switches the pivoting lever when the power reserve falls to 24 hours. The blocking device keeps the clutch-pinion meshed with the driving pinions of the rack, thus preventing the racks from falling to start the chime.
When the power-reserve exceeds 24 hours, the cam releases the blocking mechanism, returning the pivoting clutch to the control of the rocking arm.

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Blocking the strike and the winding stem
This safety system prevents the winding-stem from being pulled out when the strike is operating, and it blocks the strike when the stem is pulled out.
A locking-cam can be pivoted in two positions: one to block the manual strike-release button, the other to lock the winding-stem by acting on. Pulling the winding stem out pushes the lever to the left, pivoting the locking-cam so that it blocks the manual strike-release.
The locking cam is also switched by a pivoting sprung arm connected to the hours-rack. As soon as the rack moves to begin the strike, the arm pivots the cam so that it engages the stem-blocking device and prevents the stem from being pulled out to set the time.
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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: SONNERIE

Model: SONNERIE SOUVERAINE Minute Repeater

Movement
Caliber 1505

Manually wound
Gold baseplate and bridges
42 jewels
Movement dimensions:
Overall diameter: 35.80mm
Casing diameter: 35.00mm
Frame height: 6.25mm
Overall height: 7.80mm
Height of stem axis: 3.41mm
Stem-thread diameter: S1.20mm
Balance:
  • Free-sprung
  • 4 adjustment weights
  • Flat Anachron balance-spring
  • Fixed stud-holder
  • Pinned stud
  • Spring pinned to the collet
  • Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3Hz)
  • Inertia: 11.00 mg/cm 2
  • Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude:
Dial up, fully wound: > 340°
Dial up, 24 hours: > 300°
Escapement: Linear escapement
15-tooth escape-wheel
Visual indications:
  • Hours and minutes, off-centre
  • Small seconds at 6 o’clock
  • Power reserve
  • Strike mode selection
  • Striking hammers
Sound indications:
Grand strike, small strike on the quarters in passing
Strike silent
Minute-repeater on demand
Autonomy:
  • 120 hours without chime
  • Approx. 48 hours with grand strike
  • Approx. 24 hours after strike runs down
Finish:
Circular grained baseplate
Circular ribbing on the bridges
Polished and bevelled screws
Pegs with rounded, polished ends
Steelwork decorated by hand
3D engraving
Case
Steel
Diameter 42.00mm
Overall height 12.55 mm
Controls:
  • Two position winding and setting crown
  • Pushbutton to release the minute-repeater at 2 o’clock
  • Pushbutton to select the strike mode at 4 o’clock
Number of pieces:
Movements without dial 422Cased-up, on leather 441Cased-up, steel bracelet 558


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Press release - 2018
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com