Thursday, March 22, 2018

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Gold
















Carl F. BuchererMANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Gold 43mm

Baselworld 2018

MASTERPIECE WITH FLOATING TOURBILLON

Carl F. Bucherer once again impressively demonstrates its innovative capacity with the ntroduction­i­of the new Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral. The CFB T3000, a unique movement developed entirely in-house, is a world first that combines a peripheral automatic winding system and a ­peripherally mounted tourbillon that appears to float. The internationally successful ­Lucerne-based watch manufacturer is the pioneer of the peripheral automatic winding system that also provides the technological basis for the floating tourbillon. Further highlights are the stop-seconds function of the tourbillon and the fact that the movement is a COSC-certified chronometer.

Baselworld 2018. Following several years of development, the watch manufacturer located in the heart of Switzerland presents the new Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral; an elegant and exclusive timepiece that truly lives up to its name. The engineers and watchmakers of Carl F. Bucherer developed a completely new movement specifically for this timepiece.

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The CFB T3000 manufacture caliber draws power from its automatic winding system containing a peripheral rotor making the tourbillon feature very distinct. The watch’s ­precise function is ensured by a tourbillon, which is mounted peripherally and thus appears to float inside the watch. Both of these technical features are specialties of the family-owned watchmaker and give the new masterpiece its name: Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral.


Masterpiece of Micromechanics

More than 200 years ago, the development of the tourbillon provided an ingenious solution for a ­technical problem that had previously impacted the accuracy of a watch. Pocket watches of this era were usually nestled­ in the waistcoat pockets of their owners, which caused them to always be carried upright. The ­vertically rotating balance wheel was thus constantly exposed to the Earth’s gravitational pull, and even a minimal imbalance could sometimes lead to considerable inaccuracies in the pocket watch’s timekeeping­.­

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This positional error could only be compensated for if the entire oscillation system permanently and uniformly­ rotated around its own axis, changing the gravitational pull. It was therefore housed in a rotating cage and referred to as a tourbillon – a French word that translates as “whirlwind.” This delicate regulator continues to fascinate to this day with its micromechanical complexity and constructive brilliance. The ­tourbillon is deemed to be one of the most elaborate and prestigious complications offered in a watch, with only a few manufacturers having mastered its construction.


A Tourbillon with the Best View

For a tourbillon to rotate around its own axis, it must be mounted accordingly, which was first achieved with a ruby bearing in the watch’s main plate and another in the balance-wheel bridge. The so-called flying tour-billon represents a further development and is only mounted to the main plate. This means that observers can admire the tourbillon at work without any obstruction, but only from above. Carl F. Bucherer went one step further. The newly designed CFB T3000 caliber provides an unhindered view of the regulator both from above and below, making the tourbillon appear to float within the movement. The tourbillon cage is actually supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings, which ensure a stable connection, precise guidance, and smooth running, while at the same time remaining invisible to observers.

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Carl F. Bucherer also uses state-of-the-art technology for the escapement, which has a pallet and escape wheel made from silicon. Due to its low friction, this system can run without lubrication, which increases the power reserve to at least 65 hours, and cannot be negatively impacted by magnetic fields. This modern construction allows for a high level of accuracy and meets the requirements of the chronometer norm. This feature is just as distinct as the timepiece’s stop-seconds function, which enables the wearer to synchronize the watch with a standard time. The watch also features a tribute to Swiss watchmaking tradition in the form of the Geneva stripes on the movement’s bridge.

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This can be admired through the sapphire crystal in the case back that is not concealed by a conventional winding rotor thanks to the peripheral rotor that ­powers the watch and revolves around the movement. Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put the peripheral automatic winding system into series production in 2008. It is part of the first CFB A1000 manufacture movement as well as the CFB A2000, which was presented in 2016, and is now used in the new CFB T3000.


Refined Technology, Exquisitely Presented

Such a unique tourbillon deserves the full attention of its observers. Therefore, it was prominently placed at 12 o’clock, making it a real eye-catcher. The tourbillon cage, which rotates around its own axis once ev-ery minute, features a second hand that acts as a seconds display. With a diameter of 43 millimeters, the case made from 18-karat rose gold provides a harmonious and elegant setting for this new manufacture movement. Its classic round shape with a slight protuberance at the crown is a traditional and ­established feature of the Manero family.

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A convex silver-colored dial adds volume in the display with appliquéd gold­-­plated wedge-shaped indices and faceted gold-plated lancet-shaped hands. The sapphire crystal with anti-­reflective­coating­ on both sides beautifully accentuates the exquisite face of this watch. A hand-stitched brown ­alligator-leather strap ensures that the timepiece sits comfortably and securely on the wearer’s wrist.

Patents

Rotor patent:
Automatic winding mechanism with peripherally suspended rotor ring that is mounted with three ceramic ball bearings on its inner circumference. The three ball bearings are mounted on springs and act as a shock absorber. In contrast to centrally mounted rotors, the peripheral rotor ensures an unhindered view of the movement and allows for the watch’s flat design.


   
Tourbillon patent: * Tourbillon with peripherally mounted rotating carriage. With the tourbillon of Carl F. Bucherer, the mounting of the carriage is ensured by three ceramic ball bearings, which support and guide the bearing wheel at its circumference. These can be adjusted by an eccentric mechanism in order to optimally set the clearance. In comparison to conventional tourbillons, this construction allows for a lower height and an unhindered view of the rotating carriage from both sides.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Facts & Figures MANERO Tourbillon Double Peripheral Rose Gold ( 43 mm )

Reference  00.10920.03.13.01

Movement:
Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber,
COSC-certified chronometer, diameter 36.5 mm,
movement height 4.60 mm, total height on tourbillon 6.66 mm,
32 jewels, power reserve of at least 65 hours
Functions:
Tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds, stop-seconds function
Dial:
Silver-colored with appliquéd rose-gold-plated indices
Case:
18 k rose gold
Diameter Ø43.1 mm, height 11.57 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides.
Sapphire-crystal case back with metallic coating.
Engraving on case back: “Manero – Chronometer”.
Water-resistant to 30 m (3 ATM)
Strap:
Hand-stitched dark brown Louisiana alligator leather.
Pin buckle in 18 k rose gold. 


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For further information please contact:
For further information, please contact:
Sonja Hagmann
, Head of Communications
Tel. +41 ( 0 )41 369 74 50
E-mail :
sonja.hagmann@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Wednesday, March 21, 2018

LOUIS MOINET – SIDERALIS Red Aventurine Tourbillon Gold



















LOUIS MOINETSIDERALIS Red Aventurine Double Tourbillon Pink Gold Limited Edition


Sideralis opens a whole new window on the heavens

Sideralis is a heavenly theatre in which many different variations can come into their own. This red aventurine version offers outstanding aesthetic consistency, featuring a pink gold case and showcasing Louis Moinet’s double tourbillon in all its majesty.

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Sideralis boasts a distinctive red aventurine caseback. Aventurine is the product of an experiment by a seventeenth-century glass worker, who dipped copper flakes into molten glass. The constellation of sparkling particles produced a beautiful effect – and aventurine was born.

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Red aventurine, however, is far less well-known than its blue counterpart. That makes it especially appropriate for this very limited edition of twelve Sideralis watches. Its reddish-brown hues form an exceptional heavenly background, hand-painted to resemble the outer reaches of the kind of distant galaxy Louis Moinet himself loved to explore during his astronomical observations.


4.5 million years on your wrist

The time dial, situated at 12 o’clock, comprises two discs, one atop the other. The upper disc is also made from red aventurine. It completes one counter-clockwise rotation every 60 seconds and has a circular opening through which the three planets painted on the lower disc can be glimpsed: Mars, the Moon, and Mercury. “Each of the micro-paintings includes genuine dust from the heavenly body in question: a fragment of Mars, moon dust, and extremely rare fragments of the Rosetta Stone, whose scientific name is Sahara 99555. This stone has travelled across the universe to reach us, and is the oldest known to mankind – four and half billion years old. Scientists believe it comes from Mercury,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller.

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From a technical point of view, the highlight is the Double Tourbillon. This movement, first unveiled less than two years ago, is a Louis Moinet exclusive. These two tourbillons are especially extraordinary.

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Special feature number one

Both the tourbillons are oversized, with cages measuring 14.9 mm – half as big again as the average, resulting in the largest assembly of two tourbillons ever to have existed.

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Aside from our exacting chronometric standards, this approach adds a fascinating visual dimension to the watch; a touch of magic that we’ve decided to gift to lovers of fine watches, just so they can contemplate beauty and horological art in all its splendour,” adds Jean-Marie Schaller.


Special feature number two

The two tourbillons are designed to be physically above the movement – above the dial, even. The two raised cages are large as life and wholly visible, revealing balance wheels with beautifully styled screws – and an absolutely incomparable aesthetic appearance.

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Special feature number three

The tourbillons rotate in opposite directions. The continuous coming and going, side by side, is not just for stylistic reasons; the counter-rotation provides the motive power required for the star mechanism – the Sideralis complication – located at twelve o’clock.

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This exceptional Sideralis variation in red aventurine comes in a 47.4-millimetre pink gold case.

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Technical Specifications

Model: SIDERALIS Red Aventurine

Collection:  Limited Edition to 28 pieces

Movement
Exclusive and patented double Tourbillon with animated sideral Mechanism by  Louis Moinet®
Winding: Manual double Tourbillon
Mechanical exclusive Louis Moinet calibre LM46,
Interstellar inverted double Tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3Hz
Power reserve: 72 hours
Jewels: 36
Balance: Glucydur, screwed
Functions
Hours, minutes, interstellar inverted double Tourbillon
Case
Material: 18K Rose Gold
Design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angleOriginal Louis Moinet® design featuring six-screw bezel
Original design by Louis Moinet®, made up of 59 parts
Case diameter: 47.40 mm
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Caseback: Secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings
Crystals: Two anti-reflective sapphire crystals
Patent-pending crown guard
Sapphire crystal and back
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Crystals: Two sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment
Dial
Skeleton, openwork dial
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée” dew-drop hands
Lacquered dial with Clou de Paris concentric pattern reddish-brown galaxy background
Fleur-de-lys appliqueInverted double Tourbillon
Features and indications
Double Tourbillon 60-seconds
Hours & Minutes at 12 o’clock
Strap
Louisiana alligator leather, hand-sewn, 24mm width between lugs.
Folding clasp: gold 18-carat with “Fleur-de-lis” motif.

Unique Limited to only 28 pieces


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Press Release - 2018
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