Saturday, April 1, 2017

BREGUET – MARINE Équation Marchante 5887


BREGUETMARINE Équation Marchante 5887 - Platinum & Gold Version

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Throughout his career, A.-L. Breguet consistently demonstrated his exceptional mastery of time measurement. His strong involvement and his revolutionary developments earned him significant recognition and numerous honours.


Renowned the length and breadth of Europe, Breguet found a particularly active admirer in Louis XVIII, king of France. In 1814, the latter appointed him a member of the Bureau des longitudes in Paris.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

This body created in 1795 by the National Convention was dedicated to the advancement of the various branches of astronomy and their applications to geography, navigation and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of Earth’s physical properties). Its tasks included the annual publication of reference documents such as astronomical ephemerides.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

The Bureau des longitudes was a prestigious organisation whose 20 or so members included geometers, astronomers, seafarers and associate artists. The only representative of his profession that was eminently useful to physicists and navigators, Breguet became the horological authority, notably for the calculation of longitudes at sea. As an extension of this distinction, through an ordinance issued on October 27th 1815, Louis XVIII awarded A.-L. Breguet the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

BREGUET simple watch with equation of time3862
--------------

This was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive, given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge. It also involved playing a crucial role for the country, as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships’ positions at sea.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

BREGUET Marine chronometer N°3196 sold January 14, 1822 to the French Navy
------------------

Following in the wake of this unique heritage, the House of Breguet now launches a worldwide exclusive model named the Marine Équation Marchante 5887. This “Grande Complication” marks the start of a new era for the contemporary Marine collection.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

Since Antiquity, the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

 BREGUET Sketches illustrating the installation of Marine chronometers aboard ships
---------------------

Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO
The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model.  This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

The ingenuity of this spectacular model is accentuated by the precious expertise of the artisans exercising their skills within the House of Breguet. The front dial features two types of engine-turning, including a “wave” pattern specifically developed for this new creation. The inscription “Marine royale” is engraved on the tourbillon bar, whose execution naturally draws the gaze.

Click, to see the large size. FOTO

Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges have been delicately chased to depict in meticulous detail the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy. The barrel is adorned with a windrose motif, in reference to astronomical navigation. Thanks to the carefully chosen positioning of the oscillating weight on the rim of the calibre, the self-winding movement deploys the full splendour of its decoration.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Rose Gold. Reference 5887BR/12/9WV
------------------

This “Grande Complication” comes with a 43.9mm-diameter case in rose gold or platinum. The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement. Elegance, legibility and aesthetic balance are the keynote features of these two equally sumptuous models.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Platinum Reference. 5887PT/Y2/9WV
-------------------

-----------------------------------------------
SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH

Reference. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

Case
Case in 950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband.
Sapphire-crystal caseback. 43.9mm diameter.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m).
Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned.
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots.
Breguet facetted hands in 18k gold with luminescent material.
  • Running solar hand with facetted golden sun.
  • Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock.
  • Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock.
  • Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.
  • Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.
Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar,
tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve, Cal. 581DPE.
Numbered and signed Breguet.
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis.
16¾ lignes. 57 jewels.
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns.
Silicon balance spring.
Balance frequency 4Hz.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
Strap
Alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp.

________________________________________
Available:
Also available in 18k rose gold with dial in silvered gold and anthracite movement:
Reference 5887BR/12/9WV

-------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
------------------------------------------------------------
www.Breguet.com

Friday, March 31, 2017

URWERK – UR-210 “Amadeus”


URWERKUR-210Amadeus” Titanium and Steel

A flamboyant anachronism

For its 20th anniversary, URWERK embarks on a retro-futuristic experiment. Far from being an exercise in nostalgia, the new watch makes the sort of contrary and provocative statement one has come to expect from a watchmaker that disdains the ordinary. The experiment centres on one of URWERK’s flagship models, a UR-210. Flung into a temporal particle accelerator, this futuristic watch collides with the past to emerge transfigured as a flamboyant anachronism.

An 18th-century wall clock in the pure baroque style has pride of place in the workshops. It was one of the first collector’s pieces my father gave me — an imposing, massive work of art with elaborate gilding. For me its attraction lies in its extravagance, because extremes appeal to me, declares watchmaker Felix Baumgartner,URWERK’s  co-founder.

The memories of these first horological infatuations are certainly what inspired the new UR-210  AmadeusAmadeus referring of course to the Great Wolfgang. “Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was certainly a pioneer of the Punk subculturesays Felix Baumgartner. “One should read his biography. He was a rebel and URWERK for sure share the spirit.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

For this retro-futuristic move, the UR-210 was transformed by the expert hands of the talented craftsman, Florian Güllert. Baroque is an apt description of this new creation. “The decoration is very post-Renaissance 17th-century, but on a determinedly contemporary structure,” comments Florian. “The swirling pattern of acanthus leaves is most suitable for this style, contrasting with the angular look of the watch. We have merged the case, the crown protection and the bracelet into one unit to create an exceptional piece. I was given the entire watch to work on and I took it over to produce a design in steel.

This painstaking work took more than 260 hours to complete. Ensuring the continuity of the design was the main objective and the greatest difficulty for the engraver. “It’s a work of many aspects. The themes must interconnect and complement one another without being superfluous. This is certainly one of the creations of which I am most proud,” concludes Florian.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


For Martin Frei, this collision between the future and the past underlines his vision of a fluid frontier between time and space. “AtURWERK, we have evolved a strikingly contemporary notion of indicating the time, yet it is based on a 17th-century concept. I see this as a continuum rather than a contradiction, in a timeless and universal dimension of ideas and thoughts. Since our beginnings, I have always questioned the idea of delineated periods of time. Where some people might see limits and rigid classifications, I see intangible bridges and links in an infinite flow.

The UR-210’s satellite complication with retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high-tech, oversized, three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0-to-60-minute scale.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

This one-hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This high-speed retrograde system is based on three key elements:

  • A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for the satellite/retrograde complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the axis and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minutes flyback.
  • A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminum to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302g and is counter balanced by a brass weight. This three-dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the cylindrical flyback spring in the top center of the carrousel to the double-star gear underneath.
Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO
  • A double coaxial star-shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0-minutes.

The dial of the UR-210S features a traditional power reserve indication at one o’clock. In a near mirror image at 11 o’clock we find a similar indication. No, it isn’t a duplicate fail-safe, but something much more important which deserves our full attention, because it is actually a world-first complication that indicates winding efficiency over the last two hours.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The rotor will then convert the slightest movement into stored energy. In this configuration, a turbine connected to the rotor provides smooth, unimpeded power. But if you are more active, then that may provide more power than required and unnecessarily wear the mechanism. In that case, you would position the winding efficiency selector to “REDUCED” to engage the rotor damping system. An air turbine compressor mounted on ruby bearings spins and creates internal resistance – enough friction to slow down or dampen the automatic winding rotor. In “STOP” mode, the automatic winding system is disabled completely and the UR-210 runs off reserve power and may require manual winding.

Has your recent activity been enough to replenish your UR-210’s energy levels? If yes, the winding efficiency indicator will point emphatically to the green zone. If not, you have been using more energy than you are generating, and the winding efficiency indicator will point to the red zone.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Armed with knowledge of both winding efficiency and available power reserve, you are then able to intervene. If your UR-210 indicates an insufficient supply of energy, you can position the winding efficiency selector at the back of the watch to “FULL”.

--------------------------------
Technical Specifications

Model: UR-210 Amadeus”   

Case
Material:    Titanium and steel
Dimensions:    Width 43.8mm, length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm
Glasses:    Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:    30m/100’/3ATM
Surface finishes:    Satin finish; bead-blasted
Strap:    Metal bracelet with deployment clasp developed by Maspoli for URWERK
Movement
Caliber:  UR-7.10
Jewels:    51
Escapement:    Swiss lever
Balance    Monometallic
Frequency:    28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring:    Flat
Power source:    Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve:    39 hours
Winding system:    Self-winding coupled to turbines
Materials
Plate in ARCAP P40 rhodium coated; 3D minute hand in aluminum with brass counterweight; central cylindrical spiral in spring-steel; hour satellites in aluminum; central carrousel and screws in Titanium Grade 5
Surface finishes:
Circular graining, sandblasted, circular and straight satin-finished plate; satin-finished and diamond-polished satellites; beveled and polished screw heads

Indications
Patented revolving satellite complication with wandering hour and three-dimensional retrograde minute hand; power reserve indicator; patented winding efficiency indicator
Super-LumiNova treatment on markers, dials, indexes, hands, and satellites

Controls
Two-position winding crown with crown protector
On the back: winding efficiency selector

---------------------------------
Press Release - 2017 
--------------------------------------------
Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - URWERK
-------------------------------------------------
www.Urwerk.com