Saturday, February 4, 2017

Franck Muller – GRAVITY™ V45 Skeleton


















Franck MullerGRAVITYV45 Skeleton Tourbillon Titanium Black

For 25 years, Franck Muller has been reinterpreting watchmaking tradition in order to propel it into a high-tech dimension. The 2017 creations are no exception to the rule and send a distinctly avant-garde breeze blowing through the time-honoured art of skeleton-working.

 GRAVITYV45 Skeleton

The tourbillon bridges of the Gravity™ Skeleton take their place within a 3D architectural concept, supported by a rounded structure that is entirely openworked, like the mainplate. Engineered to revolutionize the watchmaking design, the Gravity™ line continues to evolve introducing this time a new skeletonized version, combining cutting-edge technology with unique heritage.

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The pioneering construction of the movement lies in the shape of the bridges that have been turned into a concave and convex shape, offering the watch an exclusive design. The skeleton body of the Gravity captures the gaze with its massive mechanism where the bridges and the pillars of a traditional tourbillon have been turned into an elliptical circle with diameters of 21.2mm, giving the timepiece a three dimensional aspect. An eccentric balance of 14mm further characterises this unconventional tourbillon. The 3D structure of its bridges and the plate has been entirely skeletonised with the aim of emphasising the volume of its massive mechanism. The structural lines of this masterpiece are enhanced by the use of colors on the tourbillon cage as well as on the open-worked hands.

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The very strong character of this piece is further accentuated by the texture and structure of its case that recalls the pioneering character of the Gravity line. Featuring the highest quality materials, the master watchmakers of Watchland invested all its resources to make the Gravity skeleton a true piece of design and innovation.

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The new Gravity skeleton is available in a wide range of colored finishes, allowing creating a watch that is unique and exclusive while still offering the highest Swiss quality. Indeed, the components in anodized aluminum will enable you to personalize your timepiece with a wide range of striking colors: from orange to yellow, blue, purple and many more.

With the aim of bringing the future forward, this new model represents a combination of exclusivity and high tech luxury.

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Technical details

Model: GRAVITYV45 Skeleton

Ref. V 45 T GRAVITY CS SQT

Movement
Calibre CS-03.SQT
Manual-winding mechanical movement
Dimensions of the movement: 38.4 x 39.6mm Height: 8.70mm
Display: Hours and minutes
Functions: Time setting
Power reserve: 5 days
Frequency: 18'800 vibrations / hour
Number of components: 237
Number of jewels: 24
Movement decoration
Anodized aluminium, black PVD treatment, 18 carat gold or rhodium plating
Dial
Open-face dial
Case
Titanium with PVD treatment
Available:
Carbon, stainless steel, 18 carat gold
Dimensions of the case: 44mm X 53.70mm X 15.10mm
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Strap
Rubber (bottom) with alligator (top) with colored finishes
Rubber (bottom) with nylon (top) with colored finishes

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Friday, February 3, 2017

Frederique Constant – Worldtimer Manufacture Brown Dial


















Frederique Constant – Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Brown Dial - New Version 2017

PRE-BASELWORLD 2017 HIGHLIGHT
The New Elegant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

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Geneva – Frederique Constant adds a new Worldtimer to the Classic Manufacture Collection, tracking time in twenty-four of the world’s most wonderful cities.


Globetrotter

The man of today has become a true Citizen of the World and travelling has become as natural as running or reading. It is the “it” hobby of the moment! Frederique Constant has redesigned the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture and presents its latest version. A sophisticated new brown color pattern for the more classical man. Perfect for meeting get-a-ways or some downtime across the globe, allowing you to track time around the world with the greatest of ease.

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New design

Rose gold-plated stainless steel and brown patterns make the new Worldtimer, an elegant and sophisticated travelling watch. A dark brown design of the world map finely etched onto to the dial and the twenty-four cities on its outer rim make you wish for the next destination.

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The date by hand at 6 o’clock seamlessly combines with the Worldtimer function without disrupting the esthetic of the watch. And even though the dial is busy with information, indexes on each hour make reading the time an easy and simple task.


Mechanics

The watchmakers at Frederique Constant have accomplished an extraordinary feat with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, which not only embellishes the timepiece but also is key to the user. They were able to create an in-house developed, produced and assembled caliber holding 139 parts and measuring 30mm in diameter, where the Worldtimer function is completely controlled by the crown. Thus, no additional push buttons or correctors were added which is esthetically more pleasant and simpler to use. Frederique Constant is the first brand to ever introduce such complication achievement.

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The crown has three positions. The first lets the user manually wind the watch by turning the crown upwards; the second allows the user to set the date and city by turning the crown upwards and downwards, respectively; the third position allows the user to set the time by turning the crown downwards. This Worldtimer features two discs, one displaying 24h day-night indication and a second one listing the twenty-four cities. As a true Manufacture movement, this FC-718 caliber features Perlages and Côtes de Genève decoration, and this particular one holds a 42h power reserve.

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Technical details

Model: Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Reference: FC-718BRWM4H4  

Case
Polished stainless steel 3-parts case
Diameter of 42mm
Convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant to 5 ATM
Movement
Manufacture caliber FC-718  
Automatic with date and worldtime function adjustable through the crown
Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 42hours power reserve, 28’800 alt/h
Functions      
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, world timer function
Dial
Brown dial with world map in the center and luminous indexes
Hand-polished rose gold-plated hands
  • Date counter at 6 o’clock
  • 24h disc with day-night indication
  • City disc with 24 cities
Bracelet
Light brown leather strap with white stitches

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IWC – DA VINCI Perpetual Calendar Chronograph



















IWC Schaffhausen DA VINCI Perpetual Calendar Chronograph


RENDEZVOUS BETWEEN MOON AND CHRONOGRAPH
DA VINCI PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH

The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the brand’s first watch to combine the hour and minute counters with the moon phase in a single subdial. Achieving this called for a development of the IWC-manufactured 89630 calibre. A silver-plated or gold-plated disc depicts the full moon in all its glory. At the same time, the rounded, dark blue section of the disc – representing the earth’s shadow – rotates to show the waxing or waning moon. With white gold particles sprinkled across the dark blue background, the subdial has the appearance of a star-studded night sky.

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The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103) is the first model in IWC’s history to combine a chronograph from the 89000 calibre family with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display in a subdial at “12 o’clock”. To achieve this, both the moon and the shadow of the earth are depicted on a single disc and rotate beneath an aperture in the lower part of the subdial.

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Together with the other three displays, this new function creates a harmonious unit on the dial of the 43-millimetre watch. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is available in two versions: 18-caratred gold and stainless steel.


INSPIRED BY KURT KLAUS

Poor is the pupil who does not surpass his master, Leonardo da Vinci supposedly said to the man who taught him his craft. These words were also at the back of the minds of IWC’s engineers as they set about redeveloping the perpetual calendar created by IWC master watchmakerand inventor Kurt Klaus. While creating the 89630 calibre, IWC’s present-day master watchmakers constantly referred back to the old design blueprints that were their source of inspiration.

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But there was a significant challenge, as the moon phase in the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre normally used for the perpetual calendar is located at “12 o’clock”. If the chronograph’s hour and minute counters were to be placed there, the hands would go straight through the centreof the moon phase disc. The 89360 chronograph calibre, on the other hand, had no room for a moon phase. As a result, the engineers designed the 89630 calibre, combining the dual counters of the chronograph with the moon phase mechanism and displaying them on a single subdial

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A MODERN TIMEPIECE WITH A BALANCED DESIGN

With its 43-millimetre case diameter and case height of 15.5 millimetres, the design of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is impressive yet carefully balanced. The crown and the two push-buttons are cylindrical and no longer as round as those of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendarof 1985. Combined with the large lugs of the moving horns, they create an impression of overall harmony. Despite the many displays, the dial remains clear and uncluttered because the designers chose dark blue as the colour for the chronograph moon phase totalizer at “12 o’clock”. This firmly distinguishes it from the dial and three subdials of the red gold version (Ref. IW392101) and the stainless-steel model (Ref. IW392103), which are silver-plated and slate-coloured, respectively.

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In the red gold model, the case, horns, crown and push-buttons are all made of solid 18-carat red gold. A gold folding clasp holds the dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni. In the stainless-steel version with its black alligator leather strap, the slate-coloured counters are equipped with rhodium-plated facets that once again emphasize the circle as an important design element. A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back cover reveals the sophisticated design of the movement, which has blued screws, a red gold rotor and various types of decorative polishing on the bridges. The IWC-manufactured 89630 chronograph calibre with an automatic double-pawl winding system features a 68-hour power reserve.

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ELEGANT SOLUTION FOR THE CHRONOGRAPH DISPLAY

For the chronograph, the designers likewise made no concessions. The hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, which enables stopped times to be read off as if they were the time of day. This is a significantly more elegant form of aggregate timing than two separate counters. The blue central chronograph hand shows stopped times to an accuracy of one-eighth of a second.

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The chronograph has two push-buttons,which are used to start, stop and reset the hands, as well as for the flyback function. The movement itself is designed in such a way that the stopwatch can run continuously without diminishing the 68-hour power reserve.


PRECISE COMPLICATION

The perpetual calendar works with the utmost precision: in 577.5 years, the display will diverge by just one day from the moon’s actual course. The perpetual calendar displays the date, month and day of the week on three subdials of the same colour at “3”, “6” and “9 o’clock”, respectively.

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A small window in the bottom left-hand section of the dial reveals the four-digit year display. Mechanically programmed, the calendar takes into account the different length of the months and even the leap years. Nevertheless, every 100 years (2100, 2200, etc.) a leap day normally due is omitted, which means that a watchmaker will have to advance the calendar manually on 1 March. In 2300, another intervention will be necessary when the current century slide with the figures 20, 21 and 22 will need to be replaced with a new one for the years 2300 to 2599.

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Technical details

Model: DA VINCI Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

REF. 
Gold · IW392101 
Steel · IW392103

FEATURES
Mechanical chronograph movement – Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, four-digit year and perpetual moon phase – Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds – Hour and minute counters combined in a single counter at “12 o’clock” – Flyback function – Small hacking seconds – Glucydur®* beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim – 18-carat red gold rotor – See-through sapphire-glass back

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured calibre 89630

Frequency 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels 51
Power reserve 68 h
Winding Automatic

WATCH
Materials
  • 18K Red gold 
  • Stainless-steel
Ref. IW392101: 18-carat red gold case, silver-plated dial.
Ref. IW392103: Stainless-steel case, slate-coloured dial.
Diameter 43 mm
Height 15.5 mm
Glass Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant 3 bar
STRAP
Dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, 18-carat red gold folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap by Santoni, stainless-steel folding clasp

* IWC Schaffhausen is not the owner of the Glucydur® trademark.

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Contact
Clemens von Walzel
Department Manager Public Relations
+41 (0)79 173 27 58
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Press releases - 2017
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Baumgartenstrasse 15 ·
CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 ·
Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 ·
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  info@iwc.com
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Thursday, February 2, 2017

BREITLING – Avenger HURRICANE 12H Black Breitlight® Case




















BREITLINGAvenger HURRICANE 12H Chronograph Black Breitlight® XXL Case 50 mm

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Homing in on great feats


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The Avenger Hurricane takes off in a new version in which the ultra-light, ultra-sturdy case in Breitlight® – a world-first – is teamed with a yellow or black dial and high-performance Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01. A chronograph built for extremes.

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Launched in the spring of 2016, the Avenger Hurricane truly lives up to its nickname as “the superlative-charged Breitling”. By its impressive 50 mm diameter. By its rugged construction with protective reinforcements for the pushpieces and the crown.

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By its case made of Breitlight®, an exclusive high-tech material 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 lighter than steel yet significantly harder. And also by its numerous other qualities such as exceptional resistance to scratching, traction and corrosion, thermal stability, along with anti-magnetic and non-allergenic properties.

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The Avenger Hurricane squadron now welcomes a new member. This exceptional model retains the 50 mm XXL diameter. However, the major new element lies in the fact that Manufacture Caliber B12 with its 24-hour military-style display is replaced by Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 indicating the time in a more conventional 12-hour mode – yet with the same precision and superior reliability guaranteed by the chronometer certificate delivered by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).

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On this instrument for professionals, the lightly streaked black color of the case made of Breitlight® – and water-resistant to 100 m (330 ft) – is teamed with a technical and powerful yellow or black dial punctuated by aviation-inspired white stencil-type numerals.

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 The presence of luminescent hands and numerals, along with a thick sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides, guarantees maximum legibility in every circumstance.

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The unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with four rider tabs serving to memorize times. Like all Avenger models, the pushpieces and crown are fitted with a non-slip grip ensuring optimal handling, even with gloves.

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The exclusive strap combines comfort and sturdiness, with a rubber inner lining and sides and an exterior made of anthracite high-resistance Military textile fiber.

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Avenger Hurricane: beyond superlatives.

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Technical specifications

Model: Avenger HURRICANE Breitlight® XXL Case 55 mm

Reference: XB0170E4/BF29/257S/X20D.4  Black Dial 12

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Reference: XB0170E4/I533/282S/X20D.4  Yellow Dial 12H

Movement
Manufacture Breitling Caliber B12,
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, self-winding
High-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour)
47 jewels
Over 70-hour power reserve
Functions
1/4th of a second chronograph,
30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Calendar
Case
Breitlight® (12 hrs)
Diameter: 50 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional, ratcheted
Crown:  Screw-locked, two gaskets
Crystal: Cambered sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Water-resistant to 100 m/330 ft
Dial
  • Black Volcano
  • Cobra Yellow
Strap
Military rubber  (Anthracite/yellow)
Diver Pro, Military or Military Rubber
Interhorn width: 24/20 mm
Buckle: Folding clasp

Available model 24H:
Reference: XB1210E4/BE89/257S/X20D.4  Black Dial 24H

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Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Master Memovox Boutique Edition

















Jaeger-LeCoultreMaster Memovox Automatic Boutique Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s earliest automatic alarm watch,
is celebrating its birthday

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This is an enduring story that brings pleasure to all Jaeger-LeCoultre devotees, whether they have the soul of a collector or simply a deep appreciation of objects with personality and infused with legend.

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With its top-end watchmaking expertise, its distinct design, and the history associated with it, this gentleman’s watch remains a continuing object of desire.


The anniversary of an iconic calibre

The Memovox line has been a continuous element in the Manufacture’s history since the 1950s, and has a story that resonates with both aficionados and collectors of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches.

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Featuring a double crown and a mobile disc with the desired alarm time shown by a triangular indicator, the Memovox watch made its mark on Fine Watchmaking the minute it was released.

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Its legendary movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, was the first automatic movement to boast an alarm function signed by the Grande Maison and has inspired many others since its introduction in 1956. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 that drives the Master Memovox Boutique Edition is direct descendent of the original.

“The voice of memory”

At the heart of its movement and its design is the alarm function. This eminently audible mechanical memory was invented in the 1950s, infused with post-war optimism that saw men set out to conquer the world in modern global management roles. The distinctive alarm is set to a meeting time or an event, and can be used as well as a wake-up call.

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Now that our world has become consumed in all things digital, what could be more truly luxurious than being prompted to recollect a meeting, or being awoken, by the mechanical chiming of your wristwatch alarm? No doubt it is this somewhat old-fashioned charm that appeals so strongly to lovers of watches with personality.

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There are two crowns on this watch. The bottom crown is used for winding as well as setting the time. Setting the alarm function is simple: shift the top crown into neutral position. Then, in position 2, turn this crown in anti-clockwise direction until the desired ring time. In doing so, the mobile disc with its little “retro-style” and famous Memovox indicator triangle turns around the dial to the alarm time. Turning the crown clockwise allows you to set the date, displayed in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

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The Grande Maison’s watchmakers wanted this watch to appeal to all the senses of the man who wears it, so they worked painstakingly to achieve a very pure sound for the mechanical alarm. Exacting standards underpin all the craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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A vintage design that still looks fresh

When Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers set out to create this special anniversary edition of the automatic Memovox, they sought inspiration in a watch dating back to the 1970s, the Memovox Snowdrop. This rare model with its tranquil greyish-blue dial has lost none of its allure. Blue is quite emblematic of the Memovox collection and has always been a very popular colour for this watch throughout its history.

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The dial has kept all the characteristics of the Memovox Snowdrop. Baton hands with a luminescent coating move around a white “railtrack” minute circle, which delineates the outer rim of the sunray-finish blue inner disc. Here is ensconced the little triangle that acts as a hallmark of the alarm function, and also glows in the dark.

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Moving across an opaline blue surface, the triple-faceted hour-markers are also coated in luminescent material and overlaid by a grey-blue “railtrack” minute circle – just like the original watch. As a crowning touch, the twelfth hour-marker is replaced with a Jaeger-LeCoultre logo. This watch constitutes a fine homage to its ancestor, giving a modern “retro-style” look and feel.

As for the stainless steel case, its contemporary design with brushed finishes gives the wrist an unquestionable elegance. Turning it over to see its reverse side, one lights upon an entirely engraved case-back, marked as belonging to a limited edition of 500 pieces. The “1000 Hours Control” symbol in the centre certifies that the watch has successfully undergone 1000 hours of rigorous tests relating to its functioning and reliability.

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The material selected for the strap is a deep blue braided cotton known as “Trieste”, with a contemporary light blue stitching. Supple calfskin lining ensures a comfortable and flexible fit.

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A much longed-for yet unexpected surprise from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Maison, the Master Memovox Boutique Edition watch exudes an aura of exclusivity and mythical glamour that augurs a great future...


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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model:  Master Memovox Boutique Edition

Reference: Q141848J

MOVEMENT
Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956,
produced, assembled and decorated by hand
28,800 vibrations per hour
45 hour power reserve
288 parts
23 jewels
7.45 mm in height
DIAL
Inner dial blue sun burst
Outer dial Opaline blue
Hands: Baton, polished, Super-Luminova
FUNCTIONS
  • Hours, minutes, second
  • Date
  • Alarm
CASE
Stainless steel, polished finish
40mm in diameter
Height: 14mm
Solid case-back with the Master Control logo and the legend 'Limited to 500 piese' engraves
Water resistance: 5 bar
BRACELET/STRAP
Calfskin in Trieste black, blur top-stitching

LIMIT
Limited edition of 500 pieces
Exclusive to Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques

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