Thursday, January 19, 2017

Ulysse Nardin – MARINE Regatta Manufacture Chronograph





Ulysse NardinMARINE Regatta 35th America's Cup Manufacture Chronograph

REGATTA

Getting off to a good start. This is precisely the purpose of this groundbreaking regatta chronograph – with a patent to prove it – equipped with a sweep countdown timer that can be set from 1 to 10 minutes. Victory comes down to those crucial minutes before the starting gun goes off while maneuvering to cross starting line with optimal positioning and perfect timing. Following the countdown, the bi-directional seconds hand starts moving in a clockwise direction and begins timing the race. Clear, intuitive and ac-curate functionality from Ulysse Nardin, with the support of Artemis Racing, the company’s official part-ner for the 35th America's Cup.

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Since 1846, Ulysse Nardin has been forging ahead with its sights set firmly on new horizons of creativity, ingenui-ty and precision. With this new regatta chronograph, created in partnership with the Swedish Artemis Racing team, the Le Locle watchmaker has again demonstrated its technical expertise and pioneering spirit.

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An innova-tive movement, crafted in-house, includes an original and intuitive bi-directional countdown timer for which a pa-tent has been filed. In its sturdy case, this timepiece give fresh impetus to the fleet of regatta watches. A practical and reliable timepiece, able to withstand the grueling conditions of the America’s Cup.

Decisive minutes

The purpose of a regatta chronograph is not only to track racing time but, above all, to count down the critical minutes before the racers cross the starting line. The “Fleet Race”, which takes place on a course marked by buoys, begins with a five, seven or ten-minute countdown at the end of which the yachts begin sailing the course. During this decisive interval of time, the competitors strategically array themselves on the startling line – based on winds and, most importantly, keeping clear of other competitors – in order to cross the line as close as possible to the starting signal.

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A good start determines the success in this test of skill, tactics and technical expertise. The new Ulysse Nardin Regatta chronograph delivers groundbreaking functionality and intuitive tracking of these cru-cial minutes. Dedicated to top-level sailing, this watch has been developed with the expert advice of famous yachtsmen Loïck Peyron and Iain Percy, both brand ambassadors and members of the Artemis Racing team.

Treasure in the hull

A heavy stainless steel case. The Ulysse Nardin Regatta timepiece demonstrates its stylistic power to better re-veal the complexity of the in-house crafted drive it contains. 650 artfully arranged components shape the originali-ty and special attributes of this regatta chronograph, engineered with an ingenious two-way count-up/count-down system.

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Innovative in more ways than one, the regatta feature, located at the center of the dial, displays the countdown with an arrow pointing at the yellow minute scale from 0 to 10. Easily readable, this hand can be set with a pusher located at the 10 o’clock position and moves in a counterclockwise direction when when the count-down starts.

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At the same time, the two-way seconds hand of the chronograph ticks away the seconds – in a coun-terclockwise direction – until the countdown comes to an end. When the countdown reaches zero signaling the start of the race, the seconds hand instantly starts moving in the clockwise direction and begins timing the race, measured by an hours and minutes subdial at the 6 o’clock position. Easy to read and precise, designed for those moments during the regatta when each second counts and competitors jump into action.

Anticipating victory

Like the racers who study the body of water they are to sail, the winds and the effects of currents in advance, the kinematics have been carefully designed beforehand to ensure precision and reliability. By combining complex functions, this sophisticated mechanism has an inverter which enables the central seconds hand to turn in either direction (counterclockwise and clockwise) to track the countdown and then the race time with no further user ac-tion required apart from activating the countdown.

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The result of many months of development – based on the re-nowned manufacture chronograph caliber UN-153, the new caliber UN-155 features performance, ease of use and perfectly designed display brightness. The ample 3-day power reserve, the two-way seconds hand that can be stopped to adjust the hour and the bi-directional date change compliment its remarkable practicality.

Power and refinement on the starboard bow

With its distinctive appearance, the Regatta timepiece recalls the nautical roots of the company. Its heavy 44 mm diameter steel case, water-resistant to 100 meters, is completed by a fluted bezel with rubber inserts, a screw-down crown and two molded rubber pushers. Its faceted lugs perfectly integrate the rubber strap featuring titani-um inserts and folding buckle. Turning to the dial, two variations are offered: the first features an ocean blue with bursts of signature Artemis Racing yellow and the second vivid sea foam.

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Both have a yellow countdown register punctuated by a sweep hand, Arabic numerals, indexes, appliqué Roman numerals glided over central lumines-cent hands, a yellow-tipped seconds hand and 12-hour and 60-minute subdial with the date displayed in a round aperture at the 6 o’clock position.

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As a tribute to its partnership with Artemis Racing for the 35th America's Cup, Ulysse Nardin has also created a limited edition of 35 watches. Featuring a black enamel Champlevé dial, this model’s countdown feature appears on the bezel in yellow and anthracite gray, the colors of the Swedish team.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Model: MARINE Regatta

References:
1553-155LE-3/E2-ART, - Anthracite gray - Limited Edition of 35 watches

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References:
1553-155-3/43, - Blue dial

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References:
1553-155-3/40, - White lacquered dial

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Movement
Manufacture Caliber UN-155
In-house designed movement
Silicium escapement and spring, 28’800 v/h
Power-Reserve    approximately 3 days
Winding    self-winding
Functions
Chronograph with central seconds and 12 hours and 60 minutes counter at 6 o’clock
Regatta functions:
countdown timer that can be set from 1 to 10 minutes,
and with an inverter mechanism of the second and release of the running time
Seconds hand that can be stopped to adjust the hour
Date at 6’clock, backward/forward setting
Case
Stainless steel
Bezel    fluted, stainless steel
Crown    screw down security crown, covered with rubber
Pushers    covered with rubber
Diameter    44 mm
Crystal    anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back    open case-back with sapphire crystal
Water-resistance    100 m
Dial
Blue or white with roman numerals
Black enamel / Anthracite graydial
Strap   
Rubber strap with titanium element and folding buckle

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Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 
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Wednesday, January 18, 2017

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Metiers d’Art Copernicus Celestial Spheres 2460 RT
















VACHERON CONSTANTINMétiers d’Art Copernicus Celestial Spheres 2460 RT Collection

  • A collection inspired by Nicolas Copernicus and the history of the great astronomical discoveries
  • Three innovative expressions of the decorative crafts
  • A new Manufacture movement, 2460 RT calibre featuring an original display
  • Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

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Vacheron Constantin’s master-artisans are quintessential artists endowed with the unique gift of stirring emotions. Through the creation of authentic artworks, their spirit of innovation and their exceptional skills have been perpetuated from generation to generation since 1755. This artistic mastery is fully expressed through the new Métiers d’Art Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT collection.

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The Manufacture has chosen the formal simplicity of a white gold case to set the scene for the astronomical world according to Nicolas Copernicus. With its original display and spectacular decoration, this new collection presented at SIHH 2017, pays tribute to one of humankind’s greatest discoveries: heliocentrism.

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The Copernican revolution

Nicolas Copernicus was a mathematician and philosopher, who in 1543 published De revolutionibus orbium coelestium, a work heralding a major astronomical revolution in the history of science. His hypothesis challenged geocentrism, the cosmological system rooted in antiquity and defended by Aristotle and Ptolemy, which held that the Earth is immobile and located at the centre of the universe. In this book, Copernicus put forward the theory of heliocentrism, demonstrating not only that the Earth spins on its axis and has a satellite, the Moon, but above all that it gravitates around the Sun. Several decades later, this theory was to be completed by incorporating the elliptical trajectories of the heavenly bodies. This new vision of space had a considerable philosophical impact on the perception of humanity. It overturned all existing beliefs and ushered humankind from a closed world into an infinite universe. This revolution was to have profound repercussions on all fields of thought. Vacheron Constantin pays homage to these emblematic discoveries that definitively changed the face of the world.

One dial, three different executions

The Métiers d’Art Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT collection testifies more eloquently than ever to the creativity of the Vacheron Constantin master-artisans. They have dreamed up three dials with different interpretations of the same theme. The decoration is inspired by the graphic depictions of Andreas Cellarius, a 17th century Dutch-German cartographer, author of the most important colourful sky map, Harmonia Macrocosmica, with its splendidly baroque style.

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The dials of the collection comprise two distinct parts. The oval centre bears a Sun with a glowing hand-engraved pink gold face, while the outer disc is dedicated to three decorative craft variations.

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Between the two, a tiny elliptical groove provides space to display orbit performed by the Earth.

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The latter is represented by a tiny gold disc, slightly domed and measuring barely 6.8 mm diameter, featuring a polar view of the continents based on a Lambert conic map projection.


The art of Grand Feu enamel

The first model in this trio gives pride of place to various enamelling techniques. The enameller has drawn inspiration from the astronomical map of the Copernican system as drawn by Andreas Cellarius.

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The champlevé Grand Feu enamel Earth reveals the blue of the oceans and the geography of the continents, an authentic technical feat when portrayed on such a scale. In the background, a map of the sky on a gold base is enamelled in pastel colours. It is punctuated by fine lines illustrating the orbit of the five planets shown.

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Each of these heavenly bodies, represented by a star, is mentioned by its Latin name, as are the two solstices. The outer part of the dial bears the 12 zodiac signs in polychrome enamel. They are formed using stencils, finished with a quill pen and filled using a fine brush.

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 This dial resulting from patient, meticulous and perilous craftsmanship required more than a month’s work and numerous firings until 850°C before being smoothed with an abrasive stone, lapped and polished. The very same operations that have for centuries contributed to the excellence of the Geneva watchmaking tradition.

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The art of engraving

The second dial, graced with an even more baroque-inspired aesthetic, is hand-engraved. The 12 signs of the zodiac intertwine and overlap on a white gold disc.

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The engraver has provided a wealth of ramolayé (pounced ornament) details, highlighting volumes in the material carved out by hand and lit up by the subtle interplay of slanting and depth effects.

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 The bulging muscles of Sagittarius or the flowing mane of Capricorn are outstandingly realistic when viewed under a magnifying glass.

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On the Earth orbiting around a flaming gold Sun, the finesse of details has been pushed to extremes: the oceans are covered with microscope waves achieved by engraving effects, while the contrasting continents are polished to accentuate the luminosity of the gold. An expression of truly exceptional craftsmanship.

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Laser engraving meets hand-engraving on sapphire crystal

The third dial is adorned with decorative techniques involving several novel aspects. To accompany this dance of Earth and Sun, the zodiac signs are complemented by a 3D-effect star-studded sky.

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The Earth is hand-engraved and picks up this contrast between the fine graining of the ocean waves and the brilliant glow of the continents. A hand-painted midnight blue underdial is overlaid with a transparent sapphire crystal engraved on its back.

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Vacheron Constantin has used the innovative laser technique to sculpt the symbols. The engraver then works them over entirely by hand so as to accentuate the raised motifs and play with the opalescent effects of sapphire.

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On the front, the constellations are laser-engraved and then highlighted with Super-Luminova®. The captivating sight of the sky chart echoing the immensity of the night sky is thus fully revealed in the semi-darkness.

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An original display embodying a technical feat

These Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces driven by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture-made movement, calibre 2460 RT. Entirely designed, developed and created by Vacheron Constantin in a three-year process, it provides the possibility of staging the fascinating view of the sky reproducing the heliocentric system.

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 The time is displayed by two triangular peripheral hands in 4N gold – a cut-out one for the hours and a solid one for the minutes – that glide around the dial rim. These pointers are driven by large dedicated wheels positioned on the outer part of the calibre.

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The elliptical path of the Earth around the Sun is a key highlight of this watch, exuding a powerful presence and providing continuous information as the days go by. The first complication takes the form of the Earth that spins on its axis in a 24-hour rotation period, corresponding to a mean solar day. The second complication achieved by means of a ‘tropical’ gear train is the Earth’s elliptical orbit around the Sun in 365.2421898 days, meaning one tropical year.

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An extremely precise mechanism, since the device operating this realistic motion of the Earth requires a one-day correction only once in 8,000 years – an eternity! This degree of precision for such a complication is a means by which the Maison testifies to its commitment to developing new movements.

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A tour de force serving as a timely reminder that the Manufacture has consistently demonstrated this capacity for innovation in terms of analogue time display, guided by its mastery of horological engineering as well as its creative boldness cultivated across more than 260 years.

Well-mastered details

The gold oscillating weight appearing on the back of the watch and protected by a sapphire crystal features an engraving on the same theme: a radiant Sun surrounded by ellipses. This 352-part self-winding calibre has a 36–hour power reserve. The perfectly mastered finishing operations are entirely crafted by hand in accordance with traditional watchmaking methods.

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Twelve stylised zodiac signs are engraved around the rim of the 43 mm diameter bezel. To ensure optimal convenience, all functions – the hours, the minutes, as well as the two motions performed by the Earth – are adjusted via the crown. The three models are fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a gold buckle. They are delivered in a precious presentation wood box containing a magnifying glass providing a chance to admire in detail the finesse of the artistic work accomplished on these creations.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Métiers d’Art Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT

References   
7600U/000G-B212 (Grand Feu enamel)

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 References 
7600U/000G-B211 (Hand-engraving)

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References  
7600U/000G-B226 (Sapphire)

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Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
Only available in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Movement
Manufacture Calibre 2460 RT
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
37 mm (11’’’1/4) diameter
6.7 mm thick
Approximately 36 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
352 components
27 jewels

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Indications
  • Hours and minutes indication by peripheral hands
  • Earth orbit around the Sun and Earth rotation on itself
Case   
18K White Gold
43 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial   
18K 5N gold stamped sun
  • B212: 22K gold, Grand Feu enamel, champlevé Grand Feu enamel Earth
  • B211: 18K gold, hand-engraved dial and Earth
  • B226: 18K gold, hand-painted dial (sky); laser engraving & hand-engraving on sapphire crystal (zodiac signs); laser engraving & Super-Luminova® (constellations); hand-engraved Earth
Strap   
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell,
hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle18K white gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box    Luxury model
Accessory    Delivered with a magnifying glass

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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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