BUBEN&ZORWEG – BESPOKE LINE

BUBEN&ZORWEG – BESPOKE LINE Art Luxury Safe NEW

Bespoke - at a fraction of the time!

The Art of Bespoke is a time-consuming process as it is about building a close relationship with the customer, to understand his aspirations, to create original solutions that deliver striking designs to not just meet his needs but exceed expectations. By introducing the new BESPOKE LINE, BUBEN&ZORWEG offers all of this at just a fraction of the time.

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The sheer diversity of solutions and materials that can be found in the current BUBEN&ZORWEG collection is a veritable ode to the sense of individuality and uniqueness shared by many of the most demanding customers and collectors.

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Be it the array of fine leathers, the high-quality finishes on fine timbers or the high-tech materials skillfully integrated into the design, the number of possibilities becomes virtually endless once the customer starts contributing his own input and creative ideas.

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The fact is that few brands in the luxury sector have such a developed customer-centred philosophy as BUBEN&ZORWEG, allowing for a level of customisation that transforms time into a borderless space where anything is possible.

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But although customisation can be a very detailed process allowing for the incorporation of far-reaching modifications, it also requires a fair amount of time in order to meet the uncompromising quality standards that apply to all BUBEN&ZORWEG creations.

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With the new BESPOKE LINE, BUBEN&ZORWEG enables customers and collectors all around the world to take possession of their very own customised masterpiece without any additional expenditure of time or effort. A process where there is no need for separate planing or calculations, and all matters concerning feasibility or material characteristics are perfectly clear from the onset.

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A selection of fascinating, shimmering, high-gloss lacquer finishes, ranging from the elegantly sophisticated to the strikingly powerful, shortens the journey of determining colour.

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And regarding materials, individual preferences are met by our own design experts with a bandwidth of finest leathers that enables the owner to adapt his future masterpiece to a specific ambience and his own personal style.

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This March, the BESPOKE LINE will be a highlight at the BUBEN&ZORWEG booth in the upcoming BASELWORLD fair (Hall 2.0 - Booth D61), as the display of a special collection will emphasise the importance of truly exceeding expectations. After all, today’s luxury world is all about personalisation as customers and collectors want a high level of exclusivity and to express themselves in their own way and style.

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The BESPOKE LINE allows for precisely that, but at just a fraction of the time!

ABOUT BUBEN&ZORWEG
THE HOUSE OF BUBEN&ZORWEG

In 2015, BUBEN&ZORWEG celebrates two decades in the global luxury business.
From a luxury safe constructed to house a collection of up to 100 fine watches, which also serves as a humidor, bar, weather station and music system, to an elaborate Object of Time® watch wardrobe incorporating the latest watch winding technology, BUBEN&ZORWEG crea ¬ tions enable passionate watch lovers to savour and safeguard their most treasured possessions. BUBEN&ZORWEG also craft collectibles of their own, with a sought-after repertoire including magnificent limited edition tourbillon clocks crafted in the BUBEN&ZORWEG atelier d’horlogerie.

Best friends Harald Buben and Christian Zörweg first met in Austria at the tender age of 10. Walking back home from school together every day, they began to dream of travelling the world, and perhaps one day conquering it in their unique entrepreneurial style. Inspired by a trip to Australia in their teens, they began selling Australian opals to the jewellery trade while they were at university. While still students, they launched BUBEN&ZORWEG, specialising in luxuriously crafted watch winders, designed to encase and care for self-winding watches. In the year 2004 Daniel Zörweg, Christian‘s brother became a shareholder of the brand beeing in charge of the clock and watch atelier.

Today, BUBEN&ZORWEG is a burgeoning luxury empire with a manufactory in the heart of Germany’s engineering region near Stuttgart. With an accent on sleek, head-turning design and cutting edge technology, BUBEN&ZORWEG creates bespoke objects and interiors to show-case watches, jewellery and collectibles in private residences, on yachts and in palaces round the world, in contemporary, traditional and royal settings.

With 7 standalone boutiques and over 25 in-shop boutiques, the company is present in over 100 countries. BUBEN&ZORWEG has collaborated with Aston Martin, counts heads of state, royals, athletes and Hollywood stars amongst its loyal clients and prides itself in close perso¬nal relationships with its retailers in the East and West, many having endured since the 1990s.

The BUBEN&ZORWEG aesthetic takes inspiration from the early 20th century Art Deco period when purveyors of luxury combined sumptuous materials to result in extravagant and timeless objects of beauty. From the crocodile leather stitching on a safe exterior to the gleaming, im¬peccably shaped doors of a contemporary collectibles cabinet that captures every reflection of light, BUBEN&ZORWEG assembles teams of world-class craftspeople for each new customi¬zable masterpiece.
A BUBEN&ZORWEG masterpiece is both a showcase for precious collectibles and a work of art. It might be enjoyed in a private study or dressing room. But more often than not, it becomes the centrepiece of a room and the focus of animated conversation.

„We’re thrilled to mark our 20th anniversary. True luxury is to be found in the details and BUBEN&ZORWEG is rarefied luxury at its best. We invest thought into every detail – from searching far and wide to hand select rare macassar ebony with the perfect grain and colour, to the way the doors of the BUBEN&ZORWEG Object of Time Aston Martin One77 glide open and close remotely at the touch of a button,” says Christian Zörweg.



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Buben & Zörweg Headquarters
Hauptstrasse 515 . 8962 Gröbming . Austria
Please contact:
Simone Stocker 
simone.stocker@buben-zorweg.com
Tel: +43 36 85 224 8032
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ANGELUS – U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante Skeleton

ANGELUS – URBAN U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante Titanium Limited Edition NEW

Perpetuating Angelus’ legacy of innovative chronographs:
U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante

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Built like a supercar, the Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is a three dimensional and modern mechanical wrist watch that unites three coveted "haute horlogerie" complications: the tourbillon, fly-back double column wheel chronograph and split-seconds (rattrapante), while also boasting automatic winding with a power reserve display.

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Angelus brand proudly carries a long tradition in innovative chronograph wristwatches: this history of manufacture chronographs for the wrist began in 1925 with a monopusher. The company's first highlight was the 1942 launch of the Chronodato, the world's first serially manufactured chronograph with calendar. Throughout subsequent decades, Angelus released ever more groundbreaking chronographs, many of them including world-first complications.

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It took almost five years of intensive research and development secured by several patents to create the U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante. It features a one-minute tourbillon, a fly-back double column wheel chronograph, a split-seconds (rattrapante), a self-winding mechanism and a power reserve indicator. However technically complicated that combination is, it is the movement's contemporary architecture and three-dimensional design that make the Angelus Tourbillon Rattrapante truly unique. All of these complications have been reengineered based on structural optimization and skeletonized to reveal as much of the movement as possible on the dial side, all while ensuring maximum legibility of the time and chronograph functions. The skeleton bridges alone allow the display of no fewer than 15 different wheels dial side.

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The movement hosts a number of complications – all fully integrated rather than modular add-ons – that are built on several layers, all visible thanks to the skeletonized bridges that create a form evoking the “A” of Angelus. To further increase the impression of depth, the movement is fully transparent around the tourbillon and treated in various shades of black and grey. A tour of the open dial begins with skeletonized central hour and minute hands.

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High legibility is ensured by high-contrast black movement bridges underneath light-colored hour and minute hands, as well as the fact that the latter have slightly curved profiles to catch the light from any angle. The one-minute tourbillon occupies a quarter of the dial space and can be appreciated through the skeletonized movement plate and bridges at 10 o'clock. The tourbillon is high beat with 4 Hz / 28,800 vph, a perfect fit for the watch’s character. The tourbillon cage is entirely made of non-magnetic material and reduced to the maximum to further minimize mass and optimize performance. Not only can the tourbillon itself be fully admired dial side, but also all its gearing, creating an intriguing micro-mechanical display.

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The power reserve indicator, with visible gears and wheels, is positioned at 8 o'clock directly integrated onto the skeletonized bridge: a green sector indicates ideal torque while red highlights that it's time to wind the watch. The chronograph function of the U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is among the most refined and complicated in existence: the split-seconds or “double” chronograph. This type of chronograph is highly complex to achieve, especially when combined with a tourbillon, as the energy consumption of a rattrapante mechanism is very high.

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The rattrapante (or split-seconds) function allows the timing of different events that begin but do not end together, for example the times of two runners. Two separate chronograph second hands are set one over the other; the one underneath is the split-seconds hand. When the chronograph is started, both hands start moving in lockstep together, until a press of the pusher in the crown "splits" them, with the top hand continuing and the bottom split seconds hand stopping to allow an intermediate time to be noted. By again pressing the pusher, the split-seconds hand will instantly catch up to the main chronograph hand, ready again to record a new intermediate time. Integrated onto the bridge at 3 o'clock, a 30-minute counter completes the chronograph functions.

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The visible column wheel for the split-seconds function is beautifully placed at 4 o'clock, positioned just below the 30-minute counter. The observer can even watch it in operation when the split-seconds function is activated. A second column wheel on the back of the movement controls the chronograph.

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Whereas the majority of chronographs operate in the sequence push-to-start, push-to-stop, and push-to-reset, Angelus’ U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is first of all a "fly-back" chronograph, which means that the timing operation can be directly reset and restart without having to be stopped first. The fly-back function is very useful as it allows instant restarting of the chronograph with one push of the button instead of the three pushes necessary for standard chronographs.

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The fly-back function is especially complicated to achieve when combined with the split seconds complication as the fly-back mechanism has not only one, but two, central chronograph hands to reset and restart. In addition, the forces generated on the split seconds mechanism during the instantaneous reset and restart are significant. Therefore, all of the different chronograph functions have to be painstakingly set and optimized by the master watchmaker during assembly in order to guarantee smooth operation of all functions.

  ANGELUS  History

The story of Angelus began in 1891 when brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz founded the Angelus fabrique d’horlogerie in Le Locle, Switzerland. The company quickly became renowned for developing and manufacturing pioneering movements and timepieces, both for itself and for other brands. Over the past century, Angelus earned an illustrious reputation for creating exceptional chronograph and multi-complication wristwatches, multi-display travel clocks with long power reserves, and alarm watches. Along the way, Angelus achieved a number of watchmaking world-firsts, including the first wristwatch with big date, first series wristwatch chronograph with calendar, first wristwatch with alarm and date, first automatic repeater wristwatch, and first fully waterproof repeater wristwatch.

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 Steel Chornograph Angelus
1940’s Fine, large, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, register and tachometer.
© ANGELUS SA

Along with many other prestigious brands, Angelus found it difficult to compete with the arrival of quartz watches in the 1970s and the company ceased operations in the early 1980s. After lying dormant for 30 years, Angelus has now been revived by new management who have spent three years developing the next generation of visionary timepieces, the first of which is the U10 Tourbillon Lumière, which was followed up by the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon. All models have been developed at the Angelus manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, just a stone’s throw from where the Stolz brothers established their original fabrique.

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Technical Specifications

URBAN Collection
Model: U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante 
Reference:  0CRAC.B01A.C003U

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, tourbillon, fly-back double column wheel chronograph, split-seconds
(rattrapante), power reserve indicator
Movement and Finishing
Calibre: A-150, mechanical self-winding tourbillon split-seconds chronograph
Complications: One-minute tourbillon, fly-back chronograph, split-seconds, power reserve indicator
Jewels: 38
Diameter: 37.60 mm
Height: 9.35 mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Balance wheel: Black gold-treated copper-beryllium
Escapement: Swiss lever
Regulated: Set to 5 positions
Gear train: Wheels with exclusive Angelus six-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Screws: Angelus three-point design torque-optimizing heads
Main plate and automatic bridge: Grey NAC-treated to maximize contrast and depth
Upper bridges: Black ADLC-treated
Column wheels: Black ADLC-treated and mirror-polished. Both the split-seconds’ column wheel on the dial side and chronograph column wheel on the back are visible
Tourbillon cage: Hand-chamfered and hand-polished. Black ADLC-treated second pointer
Movement finishing: Chamfered and polished edges, flat surfaces either satin-finished or sandblasted
Rotor: Black ADLC-treated with solid 22-karat white gold segment
Dial
Chapter ring: Hours, minutes and chronograph seconds markers
Counters: 30-minute counter laser engraved onto the upper chronograph bridge and rhodium treated. Power reserve indicator laser engraved onto the power reserve bridge, rhodium treated and filled with green and red lacquer
Hands: Skeletonized, sand-blasted with polished top hour and minute hands, sandblasted chronograph second hand with red tip, satin-finished split-seconds hand, sand-blasted with polished top power reserve hand, polished 30-minute counter hand with red line
Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium with black coating on the case band
Diameter: 47 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting, split-seconds pusher integrated in the crown
Back: Transparent
Distance between lugs: 22 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100 ft / 3 atm
Crystals: Box sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Strap and buckle
Material: Black stealth alligator with titanium insert or rubber
Length range: 70 mm to 125 mm
Width: 22 / 20 mm
Buckle: Titanium, folding buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference number
Limited Edition:  25 pieces

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ANGELUS SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
2304 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@angelus-watches.com
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VOUTILAINEN – GMT-6 Enamel Double Back

VOUTILAINEN – Current GMT-6 Enamel Double Back NEW

 GMT-6 Guilloché Enamel Double Back

The Voutilainen GMT-6 wristwatch embodies the perfection enshrined in Kari Voutilainen’s philosophy. The elegant and robust mechanism is housed in a sturdy and stylish case.

The proprietary movement of the GMT-6 was entirely conceived, designed, produced, finished and assembled in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combine respect for longevity and precision, in classic watchmaking tradition.

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The movement contains free sprung-balance system that ensures perfect timing of the watch according to strict tolerance criteria. The balance has four gold inertia-blocks to adjust the daily rate.

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To equip this exceptional timepiece, a unique and very rare balance-spring system has been used. The outside is a Philips overcoil, while the inner terminal follows the less common Grossmann principle.

The watch’s outstanding feature is its escapement; it is the first watch to present two escape-wheels in such a configuration. The escape-wheels provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering gains in terms of longevity and stability in everyday use.

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The sublimely elegant balance-cock offers an unobstructed view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronised movements of the escape-wheels.

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A GMT mechanism is integrated in the movement. Its indicator takes the form of a disc at 6 o’clock. The disc shows 24 hours and includes a day/night indicator. The triangle transferred to the subsidiary seconds dial represents the index by which the indication can be read. The disc is advanced by pressing the crown, each press moving the disc forward one hour at a time. Disks are engine turned by hand and they have transparent grand feu enamel in blue and orange on it.

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Finishing of the watch is of the very highest standard. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are totally flat and perfectly polished to exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is carried out by hand to attain the best possible surface finish. Screws and all steel surfaces are finished and polished by hand. 
 
The case, in platinum, measures 39 mm. It has an enamelled double back and an 18kt white gold crown. Sapphire crystals front and rear with glare-proof treatment Case back is engine turned by hand and it has transparent enamel in blue color Grand Feu. 

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The in-house movement has 21 jewels, 18,000 vph and a power reserve of 65 hours. New escapement with two escape-wheels, direct impulse Nickel silver bottom plate and bridges Integral GMT mechanism Wheels manufactured from rose gold Balance: 13.60mm diameter, fitted with a Breguet/Grossmann balance spring and rose gold inertia blocks. 

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Engine-turned dial, done in solid silver and gold with transparent Grand Feu enamel in red color. Gold applied numerals with satin finish and satin finished gold hands.  It comes on a black hand-stitched crocodile leather strap with an 18kt white gold buckle.

Finishing of the watch is of the very highest standard.

The surfaces of pinions and wheels are totally flat and perfectly polished to exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is carried out by hand to attain the best possible surface finish. Screws and all steel surfaces are finished and polished by hand.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Voutilainen Current Collection GMT-6 Enamel Double Back

Movement
In-house movement
New escapement with two escape-wheels, direct impulse.
Nickel silver bottom plate and bridges.
Wheels manufactured from 18K rose gold
Integral GMT mechanism.
Proprietary movement.
Conception, design, manufacture, finishing and assembly carried out in Voutilainen workshop.
Movement size
Mouvement dimensions: 30mm x 5.60mm
Functions
65 hour power reserve
Balance
Free sprung balance wheel (with Brequet/Grossman balance sprint, beating at 18,000 vph),
with rose gold inertia blocks.
Diameter of balance wheel is 13.60mm, wheel in rose gold.
Jewels: 21
Dial
Engine-turned solid silver and gold with transparent grand feu enamel in red colour
Guilloché dial with red grand feu enamel
2 enameled appliques for day/night indicator. (Guilloché Grand feu enamel in blue and orange)
Hands: Satin finished 18K gold hands
18K Gold applied numerals with satin finish
Additionals
Case

• Platinum case, 39 mm diameter with enamelled double back
• 18-carat Gold, 39 mm diameter with enamelled double back

Sapphire crystals front and rear with glare-proof treatment
Case back is engine turned by hand and it has transparent enamel in blue colour Grand feu
Guilloché Double Back Grand feu Enamel  
Case size: ø 39.00 mm 
18-carat white gold crown
Sapphire crystals front and rear, glare-proof treatment on front.
Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile leather and 18-carat white gold buckle

Year: 2016
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Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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Voutilainen.ch

ARNOLD & SON - Eight-Day Royal Navy Chronometer

ARNOLD & SON – Royal Collection Eight-Day Royal Navy Guilloché Dial Chronometer NEW

Royal Collection – Eight-Day Royal Navy
Pre-BASELWORLD 2016

Eight-Day Royal Navy

Demonstrating its rich British history and quality Swiss craftsmanship, Arnold & Son unveils the beautiful Eight-Day Royal Navy. The watch is a testament to Arnold & Son’s tradition of building marine chronometers. With a stunning new eight-day power reserve movement, it is part of the sophisticated Royal Collection that took its inspiration from the timepieces commissioned by King George III.

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George III of the United Kingdom

Back in the 18th century, Arnold & Son’s marine chronometers delivered the robustness, reliability and down-to-the-second precision needed by marine navigators to determine longitude on the high seas. The Eight-Day Royal Navy combines these historic features with a high-performance movement and two of the hallmarks of the antic Arnold & Son chronometers: the power reserve display at 12 o’clock and the “large” small seconds at 6.

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Inspired by the company’s historic chronometers, the watchmakers and designers at Arnold & Son set out to create a new in-house movement featuring an eight-day power reserve together with a digital date display. This top-flight movement features an unusually open design and meticulous finishing. It delivers further proof of the brand’s creative flair and is the 18th movement to be developed and designed in the company’s own workshops in just five years. The ability to create an unending series of new, customized in-house movements enables Arnold & Son to make the perfectly designed, uncompromising timepieces for which it has made its name.

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A&S1016
Manufacture Arnold & Son calibre, power reserve 192 h (eight days), hand-wound,
diameter 33 mm, thickness 4.70 mm
© Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son’s history is closely related to that of the Royal Navy. John Arnold and his son played an influential role in the directions taken by English watchmaking. They dedicated themselves exclusively to the quest for absolute precision and a solution to the problem of determining longitude accurately and reliably on the high seas. So successful were they, and of such high quality their products, that within the space of a few years they had established themselves as suppliers of choice to the Royal Navy and to some of the most distinguished mariners and explorers of their day.

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During this era, timepieces played a crucial role as aids to navigation and were effectively both technical and scientific instruments. John Arnold and his son decided to make them as rugged and reliable as possible, and in sufficient quantities to equip the Navy’s extensive fleet. Ultimately, they were to prove pivotal to the nation’s marine dominance and helped ensure that Britannia really did rule the waves.

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Marine Chronometer
Eight-day movement with two-arm balance, steel spring
© Arnold & Son

Given the dominance of Swiss watchmaking in modern times, it is difficult to imagine an age when another horological culture and tradition held sway in Europe. The late 18th century, however, was an age when English watchmaking reigned supreme. The country’s watchmakers developed an aesthetic entirely of their own, dictated partly by contemporary taste but also by their desire to roll back the boundaries of a field that combined art, tradition and technology like no other.

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To perpetuate the company’s heritage, Arnold & Son felt duty-bound to develop a new movement that would be both technically and aesthetically worthy of the House’s historic timepieces. As with every new calibre, Arnold & Son’s R&D team started with a blank sheet of paper, and set out to design a movement which, together with the case and dial, would constitute a harmonious whole.

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Among the more important specifications were a long power reserve, integrated power reserve and date displays, and a slim case. Ultimately, then, the positioning of every element had to be carefully though out so as to achieve the optimum arrangement for the displays on the dial.

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Thus was born the A&S1016 calibre. Equipped with a highly efficient twin barrel, the A&S1016 calibre features an eight-day power reserve and has a fully integrated power reserve display and date function. Despite all these features, the movement is only 4.7 mm thick.

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To further underscore this technical excellence and in typical Arnold & Son tradition, the 242-part, 33-jewel A&S1016 calibre is meticulously finished: the entire palladium-treated nickel-silver movement features hand finishing indicative of the finest haute horlogerie timepieces, including skeletonized and chamfered bridges with polished edges, Côtes de Genève rayonnantes and fine circular graining, circular-grained wheels, and blued screws with polished and chamfered edges. The main jewels are set in solid 18-carat gold chatons.

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The Eight-Day Royal Navy watch measures 43 mm in diameter, and its classically elegant stainless-steel case just 10.7 mm in height. Viewed from the side, the housing is stepped and tapers from top to bottom, the widest section accommodating the extra-large glass with the lower part narrowing to fit snugly on the wrist. As an indication of the attention to detail, the satin-finished inserts in the horns can be dismantled during servicing and re-satinized if necessary. The timepiece naturally features an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back to view the intricate details.

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The watch is available with a choice of three guilloché dials in different colours: silver grey, black anthracite or the shade of royal blue typical of the brand. Further examples of the attention to detail are the colour of the date disc and the exquisite hand-aged calfskin strap, both of which match the colour of the dial. Overall, the Eight-Day Royal Navy is a beguiling work of technical mastery and fine art.

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Technical characteristics:

Reference: 1EDAS.U01A.D136A  Blue Guilloché dial
Reference: 1EDAS.B01A.D134A  Black Guilloché dial 
Reference: 1EDAS.S01A.D135A  Silver Guilloché dial

Calibre: A&S1016
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement
Hand-wound, 33 jewels, diameter 33 mm, thickness 4.70 mm,
power reserve 192 h (eight days), double barrel, 21,600 beats per hour
Functions:
Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, digital date
Movement decoration: 
Palladium-treated Nickel-silver movement, main plate featuring haute horlogerie finishing:
Skeletonized hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, Côtes de Genève rayonnantes,
fine circular graining, circular-grained wheels, blued screws, screwed gold chatons, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads
Dial:
Guilloché polished lacquer:

• Blue - 1EDAS.U01A.D136A
• Black - 1EDAS.B01A.D134A
• Silver - 1EDAS.S01A.D135A

Case: 

Stainless steel, diameter 43 mm,
Cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
see-through sapphire case back
Water-resistant: 30 m
Strap: 
Hand-stitched blue, black or brown, hand-aged calf leather

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Press release
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 ARNOLD & SON SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland 
info@arnoldandson.com
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