Wednesday, October 28, 2015

HYT – H4 ALINGHI 3DTP™ Carbon/Black DLC Ttanium
















HYTH4 ALINGHI 3DTP™ Carbon/Black DLC Ttanium Limited Edition NEW

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World Premiere: HYT bathes its H4 in light

Innovation within tradition, the DNA of haute horlogerie, the movement heritage, and so on: forget it all. HYT does things its own way, and discards these received ideas. Need a known quantity to hang on to? Good news: the H4 Alinghi tells the time. As for the rest, you will need to forget anything that has been seen, designed, or even imagined before now.

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Nothing has changed, except the essential

The chassis is a familiar beast. Since the start of the year, the H4 has had more ink in publicity than it has in its capillary. It is based on the same movement architecture as the H1, HYT's inaugural piece, which has been completely skeletonised.

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With a 65-hour power reserve, it unveiled its sculptural mechanism for the very first time and opened up a new creative universe for HYT. One so appealing that the brand decided not to meddle with it: the new H4 Alinghi is virtually a carbon copy of its big brother. Or is it?

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All is not as it seems

Using this as its basis, HYT has returned to its favourite game: creating, surprising, sometimes unsettling, always astounding. This time the brand has applied a radiant idea, as brilliant as it is difficult to spot at first glance.

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Only eagle-eyed enthusiasts will have noticed an intriguing detail: the presence of two push-pieces. What could they be for, on a model with hours, minutes and seconds? The answer is a first for HYT – probably in watchmaking as a whole.

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A fully illuminated project

The H4 Alinghi is a piece equipped with a light source. Under the rider at 6 o'clock, HYT has concealed two LEDs. Once activated, they flood the entire dial with white light. At night, the red fluid is energised by this light source, becoming perfectly visible. At the same time, the wash of light flows into every nook and cranny of the calibre, literally bringing this skeleton architecture to life, and defying the laws of watchmaking.

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The source of energy is purely mechanical. “Starting with a blank sheet is what we know. That's how all our models have been created", explains Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT Watches. "But here, with the light complication, a new challenge was set: we had to start using our own existing calibre as a complete, functional basis. We basically had to add a piece to a puzzle which was already finished".

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Lumens ex machina

The generator has been nestled between 4 and 5 o'clock. It is invisible, and activated by the push-piece located opposite on the case middle. The process is broadly that of a dynamo: converting mechanical power into light energy. It is the rotation of the push-piece at 4:30 that winds the generator. Pressure on this same push-piece then activates the two LEDs which bathe the Alinghi in a soft white light.

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This illumination is possible for a maximum of five seconds, after which the mechanism must be reinitialised. No battery is needed for this process, which is fully mechanical. Three factors made it so tricky to develop: the extreme miniaturisation, the curved shape, and the fact, once again, that no development of this type had ever been achieved before.

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The H4 Alinghi, in honour of the eponymous team, will be released using the same base, with a carbon case, red liquid, white light, the team's logo on the seconds disc and a strap made from sail canvas, with just 25 pieces available.

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"The coherence of the idea seduced us ", explains Vincent Perriard. "Before HYT, we were told that having a movement running with a liquid was simply impossible. Before the H4 Alinghi, lighting up a dial was only possible with a battery. And, what is more, a liquid must never be used in conjunction with an electrical current. But, evidently, we’ve done all of those things. In reality, the only limits are those we set ourselves". 

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Technical Specifications

Model: H4 ALINGHI 3DTP™ Carbon and Black DLC Titanium Limited Edition
Ref: 515-CB-03-RF-RV

Case    
3DTP™ carbon and Titanium Black DLC with brushed, micro-blasted and satin finishes
- Diameter: 51.0 mm
- Thickness: 17.9 mm
-  rubber-clad screw-down black DLC titanium crown at 2:30 and a red crown at
4:30
-  black DLC titanium and red numeral lacquered dome at 6 o'clock
-  convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the dial side
-  screw-down sapphire case-back
-  water resistant to 50 metres. 
Functions    
Retrograde fluidic hours; minutes, seconds
Movement    
Mechanical hand-wound skeleton movement,  
 - Exclusive HYT calibre 101
- 28,800 vph, 4 Hz, 35 jewels
- Bridges hand-chamfered and micro blasted, rhodium-plated bellows
- 65-hour power reserve.
White light mechanical module :
-  rewinding and push-button system with a crown at 4:30
-  the dynamo works when the crown is compressed at 4:30. As soon as the
button loosens the light stops working until the full decompression of the
additional barrel spring
Dial    
Unstructured, fluid hour display :
-  sapphire minute, seconds and power reserve dial
-  black minute indexes and luminescent numerals
-  black hour dial with white numerals
-  luminescent black minute hand
-  regulator at 12 o'clock
-  small seconds wheel with the Alinghi logo at 9:30
-  power reserve indicator at 2:30
Strap    
Black rubber base with integrated silver canvas and red stiching.
Black DLC titanium folding buckle.

Limited Edition of 25 pieces
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Tuesday, October 27, 2015

TUDOR – Black Bay “BLACK”



TUDORHERITAGE Black Bay BLACKNEW


TUDOR unveils a new version of its emblematic Heritage Black Bay divers’ watch. Presented for the first time in 2012 and one of the winners at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève the following year, this model now comes in three versions – burgundy red, blue and black –, celebrating over 60 years of divers’ watches with extraordinary destinies.

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The Heritage line by TUDOR is distinguished by the unique creative process of the brand’s Style Workshop as well as an exceptional attention to detail. Since 2010 and the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono, TUDOR has reinterpreted some of the key models in its history.

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The very opposite of a mere reedition, a Heritage product is the powerful result of a true temporal and stylistic encounter of past, present and future. The aesthetic codes that contributed to the renown of the historic models are preserved and injected with modern touches to update its iconic status.

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After winning the ‘Revival’ prize at the e for the first version of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay model, this approach has become one 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genèv of TUDOR’s defining hallmarks.



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The model derives its overall lines and its domed crystal from the brand’s first divers’ watch, the TUDOR Submariner reference 7922, launched in 1954. The character of its dome-shaped dial, a detail common to the first TUDOR Submariner, is also drawn from this model.





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TUDOR OYSTER SUBMARINER Ref. 7923 (1955)
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The imposing winding crown is a nod to a model presented in 1958 with the reference number 7924 and nicknamed “Big Crown” by collectors. Its characteristic angular hands, known by connoisseurs as “snowflakes”, were seen from 1969 to the early 1980s.

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These multiple references to the brand’s aesthetic heritage, combined with contemporary design elements such as the robust 41 mm steel case with a refined finish, a coloured, anodized aluminium crown tube, as well as superbly crafted interchangeable bracelets make the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay a watch with a powerful identity that vividly embodies the brand’s renewal process.

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Like the models in the TUDOR Heritage line, the new Black Bay “Black” adopts this approach while at the same time forging its own identity, cleverly combining historic aesthetic elements that have not yet been reinterpreted. With its black dial, pink-gold hands and hour markers, cream- coloured luminescent material and burgundy red bezel, the original TUDOR Heritage Black Bay introduced in 2012 suggests the gentle warm patina of an antique watch. Radically different, the second model from the Black Bay family, dubbed the ‘Midnight Blue’ by the brand’s enthusiasts, presents an icy face and sharp contrasts, giving the watch the appearance of a professional, technical instrument. The new Black Bay “Black” is certainly the watch that comes closest to the pioneering spirit of TUDOR’s first divers’ watches. Combining historic patina with technology, it perfectly complements the Black Bay family. In a notable, unique visible detail, it adopts the famous red triangle of the unidirectional bezel from the TUDOR divers’ models of the late 1950s.

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Like the models in the TUDOR Heritage line, the new Black Bay “Black” adopts this approach while at the same time forging its own identity, cleverly combining historic aesthetic elements that have not yet been reinterpreted.

Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ...               BIG FOTO

With its black dial, pink-gold hands and hour markers, cream- coloured luminescent material and burgundy red bezel, the original TUDOR Heritage Black Bay introduced in 2012 suggests the gentle warm patina of an antique watch.

 Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ...   BIG FOTO

Radically different, the second model from the Black Bay family, dubbed the ‘Midnight Blue’ by the brand’s enthusiasts, presents an icy face and sharp contrasts, giving the watch the appearance of a professional, technical instrument.

  Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ...               BIG FOTO

The new Black Bay “Black” is certainly the watch that comes closest to the pioneering spirit of TUDOR’s first divers’ watches. Combining historic patina with technology, it perfectly complements the Black Bay family. In a notable, unique visible detail, it adopts the famous red triangle of the unidirectional bezel from the TUDOR divers’ models of the late 1950s.

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Mounted either on a brushed steel bracelet with folding clasp or on aged leather strap, also with a folding clasp, the Black Bay “Black” is accompanied by a second strap in black fabric. The strap, woven using time-honoured techniques by a traditional company, lends added value to TUDOR creations.

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Technical Specifications

Year: 2015
Collection: Heritage


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Reference: 79220N

Mouvement
Mechanical automatic TUDOR 2824 calibre, 
Total diameter 26 mm
Height 4.60 mm
Jewels 25
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve ~38 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Case
Steel, polished and satin finish, 
Steel case 41 mm
Unidirectional rotatable steel bezel with matt black disc
Screw-lock crown engraved with the TUDOR rose
Black anodised aluminium crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal 
Water-resistant: 200 metres (20 bar / 660 ft)
Dial
Darkest black
Hands and gold-toned hour-markers with ice-white luminescent coating
Bracelet/strap
Aged Black leather or steel with folding clasp
Steel steel bracelet with folding clasp
Delivered with an additional fabric strap with buckle

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