Saturday, October 3, 2015

Jaeger-LeCoultre – GEOPHYSIC® True Second®

















Jaeger-LeCoultre GEOPHYSIC® True Second® NEW

Geophysic®,
The milestone collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre

Renowned for its horological mastery and its creative talent, Jaeger-LeCoultre now wishes to share the fruits of its expertise with a broader public. This is why it is introducing an original collection with a pure, uncluttered design, driven by a new Haute Horlogerie calibre encapsulating the inventive spirit of the Manufacture. Geophysic® line reveals its gripping story, so that we can better tell our own.

The first glance reveals a clean-cut design that is the epitome of elegance and equilibrium. Each model in the Geophysic® line features several layers of meaning. It gradually unleashes a powerful and innovative horological content expressed through classic characteristics. This refined and contemporary creation asserts its masculine nature in a number of subtle ways.

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The collection is named after a watch that belongs both to universal history and to the heritage of the Manufacture. In 1958, the International Geophysical Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a chronometer for scientists on mission. Capable of withstanding the magnetic fields of the North Pole while losing nothing of its formidable precision, its overriding characteristic was extreme resistance.

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The Grande Maison is now choosing to revive this legendary name in two models blending aesthetic elegance, technical sophistication and 21st century user friendliness: the Geophysic® True Second® and the Geophysic® Universal Time.


Refinement and discernment  

Nothing that Jaeger-LeCoultre does is governed by exclusively external considerations. This is demonstrated by the case of the Geophysic® True Second® watch which measures exactly 39.6 millimetres, an elegant and reassuring diameter confirming its cultural roots in the field of Haute Horlogerie, and the choice of which was determined by a quest to find the perfect size enabling the watch to express perfect harmony.

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Geophysic® explores the subtle nuances of contemporary classicism, reinforced by the traditional hands reflecting the codes of the Vallée de Joux as well as the linear hour-markers. The design of the case in turn reveals another facet of its personality through finishes worthy of the most precious Jaeger-LeCoultre models.

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The lugs do not meet the case middle with a gentle curve, but rather with a decisive angle expressing strength and confidence. Their sides are polished to accentuate their sleek silhouette. In becoming better acquainted with the watch, the observer realises that its bezel slightly overlaps a tiny part of the case and lugs, thereby creating an extremely pure overall aesthetic.

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The case-back is screwed in, like that of the 1958 model, so as to ensure greater water resistance. This flowing visual effect is enhanced by the fact that the eye does not linger on any screws, while the watch features the inherent reliability of a system traditionally used to equip diver’s watches. Finally, the case middle also echoes the inspirational original with its extremely dynamic Super-Luminova®* dots that enable easy read-off even in the dark. The balanced, refined and unostentatious tone is set in subtle touches, leaving plenty of scope for the reactions that this exceptional watch unfailingly provokes.


A new collection gets a new high-precision calibre

The movements driving the Geophysic® collection, automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibres 770 and 772, are synonymous with high precision and mechanical beauty. These calibres called upon the talents of the most highly specialised engineers of the Research & Development division within the Manufacture. The strength of their expertise and their imagination drives their authentic capacity for innovation.

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The latter is in this instance expressed by an atypical balance wheel featuring a non-circular configuration that required lengthy research in order to reduce air friction. Named the Gyrolab®, this device was initially developed in a laboratory version back in 2007 to equip the Master Compressor Extreme Lab 1 watch. It took eight years to transition from this confidential version to one that could be incorporated into an entire watch line. Geophysic® is the first collection to enjoy the full benefits of this key breakthrough and its determining influence on the precision of the watch.

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This precision is also expressed by the true seconds system that causes the seconds hand to move forwards while “beating the second”, meaning by performing a jump every second. This is no ordinary feat for a mechanical movement, and one that does not disturb the smooth running of the watch. True seconds mechanism involves an extremely sophisticated construction whose effectiveness is expressed on the dial by a pleasantly rhythmical reading of the seconds. This specific expertise, which has been mastered by the Maison since the 19th century, testifies to the authentic instrument-worthy nature of the Geophysic®.

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For Jaeger-LeCoultre, mechanical performance is meaningless if it is not matched by beauty. At first glance, the calibre reveals its relationship to the characteristic line of automatic movements from the Grande Maison. The gaze then becomes aware of the more generous volumes, and of the powerful proportions of the bridges. These broad surfaces provide ample space for a forceful interpretation of the Côtes de Genève motif. The infinite time, energy and patience devoted to the finishes of the Geophysic® collection are epitomised in the way this calibre catches the light.

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The remarkable calibres driving the Geophysic® line are the first to feature an oscillating weight – crafted from a single block of solid gold – bearing the ‘anchor’ motif (itself echoing the shape of a escapement lever) that is also the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo. Strategically cut out and more open than a classic weight, it enables the eye to reconstruct the movement that it generously reveals in the course of its rotations.

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These calibres exude a resolutely technical aura, much like a car engine built to ensure optimal performance. They deliver a degree of reliability and precision certified by the rigorous “1000 Hours Control” that Jaeger-LeCoultre is the only Manufacture to implement. Despite the sophisticated nature of these mechanisms, they are both functional and easily adjustable by merely positioning the crown. Here, Jaeger-LeCoultre transposes the philosophy of the namesake historical model into a resolutely contemporary watch.


GEOPHYSIC® TRUE SECOND® WATCH
DISCRETION AND EXCELLENCE

The Geophysic® True Second® radiates the kind of stage presence that is the exclusive preserve of great classics. Its finely grained dial lends added texture and further accentuates the readability of the information provided. The hands and hour-markers stand out clearly against their backdrop. 

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The vibrant, graphic Geophysic® True Second® watch comes in steel or pink gold versions, and is adjusted in an extremely intuitive manner. The crown in its neutral position winds the movement, while position 1 serves to set the jumping hours corresponding to the city where the wearer is currently located, as well as the date, and position 2 controls the hours and minutes.

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The Geophysic® is in all respects an ideal companion for those who are frequently on the move.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Geophysic® True Second®

References: Steel stainless version: Q801 84 20 model 
References: Pink Gold version: Q801 25 20 model

Movement 
•    Mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 770
•    40-hour power reserve
•    28,800 vibrations per hour
•    275 components
•    36 jewels
•    6.57 mm thick
Dial
•     Silver-toned, grained, applied hour-markers
Hands
•    Baton-type, enhanced with Super-Luminova®
Functions
•    Hours, minutes
•    True seconds
•    Date
Case
•     11.7 mm thick
•     39.6 mm in diameter
•    Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap
•    Alligator leather
o    Pink gold model: pin buckle
   Stainless steel model: folding clasp

* Jaeger-LeCoultre is not owner of the trademark Super-Luminova
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Friday, October 2, 2015

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon


DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon White Gold Limited Edition NEW

Transparency and precision

The DeWitt calibre DW8028s uses age-old, recognized and highly reliable technical parameters in its construction: 18’000 A/h, a variable-inertia balance, a 44° angle escapement and 72 hours power reserve. 

Entirely produced in-house, this manually wound Tourbillon is equipped with a Swiss anchor escapement and a spiral made out of an unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing, anti-magnetic alloy and sequenced at 2.5 Hz. The perfect homogeneity and incredibly precise flat rolling of the Hairspring (0,0001 mm) guarantee an extremely high precision to the mechanism.

The balance, as well as the escape wheel and the anchor are made of 18-carat yellow gold.

Architectural strength and finesse

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon does not intend to compete with the ultra-skinny and fragile skeletons where as much material as possible was taken out of the construction. The architecture of DeWitt’s skeleton remains deliberately strong and is therefore very well balanced with the design of the case which features 48 imperial columns. A typical feature of practically all DeWitt masterpieces.

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The carved-out main plate, a sand-brushed nickel silver base with blue PVD surface finishing. Meandering across the movement, the lucky observer will suddenly land on a stunning skeletonised “W” logo positioned at 9 o’clock. The play on depths, perspectives and layers is a typical feature of DeWitt designs and the Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon is no exception. The skeletonised “W” logo is actually duplicated on the lower part of the movement in order to offer these interesting volumes when admiring the movement from either side of the watch.

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But however robust the foundations, your eyes will inevitably be dragged deep into the movement and the captivating finesse of its ticking mechanics. You will marvel at the Tourbillon as it gracefully rotates on its axis, held in place by a long, slender and circular-grained Art Déco bridge.

An authentic piece of art

The barrel, positioned at 12 o’clock, is also skeletonised in order to reveal the interior of the motor.

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The shape given to the open-worked barrel was inspired by the design of vintage car steering wheels. As the barrel wheel gently turns with the unwinding of the spring, the stems of the upper part will glide over the stems of the lower part. Yet another interesting play on layers by DeWitt.

A successful match

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon is housed in a 43 mm round case made in 18-carat white gold. Presenting particularly comfortable proportions with redesigned lugs and slightly more discrete imperial columns displayed on its flanks, it remains instantly recognizable and true to DeWitt’s strong DNA.

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Its balanced design offers the necessary combination of character and refinement for a successful wedding with the architectural lines of the skeleton movement.

Dewitt and its passion for exceptional

The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms of the DeWitt Manufacture. Entirely hand-made, the treatment and finishing-work on this piece are of a rare quality. Case, plate, bridges, wheels and even miniature screws are all angled, polished, satin-finished and treated to perfection in the patient and meticulous hands of our watchmakers.

Last but not least, a particularity of all watches coming out of the DeWitt Manufacture, every high complication watch is entirely assembled, adjusted and tested by a single master watchmaker.

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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

Model: Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon White Gold

Reference : T8.TH.024

limited edition
99 pieces
Case
Case Round case with DeWitt imperial columns on the sides
Material: 18-carat White Gold
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 10.28 mm
Crown: 18-carat White Gold polished crown, “W” signature
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Movement 
Calibre: Reference DW8028s
Diameter: 33 mm
Mechanical and skeletonized manually wound movement integrating a Tourbillon.
Dead-beat second is directly connected to the Tourbillon carriage.
Signature of the watchmaker on the back bridge of the movement
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Vibrations: 18,000 vph
Balance:
Variable-inertia (Glucydur) balance
Spiral:  Spiral with Breguet curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewels: 19
Number of components: 185
Dial
Оpen-worked Skeleton
Blue PVD finishing carved-out main plate with sand-brushed nickel silver base
Open-work on the Tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock.
Railroad indicating the minutes.
Hands
Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the form of double-edged swords, silver colour tone
Wristband:
Semi-matt Black alligator

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DeWitt Manufacture
Rue du Pré-de-la-Fontaine 2,
1217 Meyrin, GENEVA,
SWITZERLAND +41 22 750 97 97
info@dewitt.ch
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