Arnold & Son – Constant Force Tourbillon

ARNOLD & SON – Royal Collection Constant Force Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

Pre-BASELWORLD 2015

Arnold & Son pushes precision chronometry ever further with the Constant Force Tourbillon, featuring a patented constant force device with 60-second tourbillon and true beat seconds.

The symmetrical movement architecture of the Constant Force Tourbillon movement pays tribute to Arnold & Sons' historic marine chronometers. At the top, two visible mainspring barrels and the constant force device provide optimal power to the tourbillon at the bottom of the dial.

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The Constant Force Tourbillon is part of the Royal Collection and, like every other model from Arnold & Son, features an in-house mechanical movement. John Arnold (1736-1793) was constantly searching for higher precision in his timepieces, as the more accurate the chronometer, the more precise the calculation of longitudinal (east/west) position at sea. Arnold and his son were the first to develop and produce technically superlative (but reasonably priced) marine chronometers in significant quantities.

Constant force is an essential element in the quest for higher precision because it is difficult regulating a consistent output, e.g. isochronal time when the power input from the mainspring is constantly changing. Imagine trying to drive a car at a consistent speed with an engine that continually varies its power output.

To maximize power consistency in the Constant Force Tourbillon, Arnold & Son began at the beginning, i.e. the mainspring barrel, as this is the source of the movement's power. Instead of using just one mainspring barrel, which would produce significantly different amounts of torque between fully wound and nearly empty, the Constant Force Tourbillon has two symmetrical barrels in series, visible dial side at 10:30 and 1:30. The first mainspring barrel alone powers the gear train, while the second barrel tops up the first whenever its torque output drops below optimal. This ensures that the power to the regulator flows as constantly as possible.

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The Constant Force Tourbillon features a patented constant force mechanism. Instead of power from the mainspring feeding directly to the escapement/tourbillon, it charges a small hairspring which in turn releases a consistent amount of power to the escapement/tourbillon once each second. The device also drives the true-beat seconds hand (also known as jumping seconds or dead seconds), a highly cherished Arnold & Son complication. When the power from the mainspring drops below that required by the constant force mechanism, the movement stops rather than running at lower precision. The constant force device rotates once per minute in increments of one second, visually mirroring the rotation of the constantly rotating tourbillon cage. The bridges supporting the constant force regulator and tourbillon are also symmetrical, both horizontally with each other and vertically with the barrel bridges.

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A&S5119
Exploded view of the patented constant force mechanism
© Arnold & Son

While the constant force mechanisms optimize precision with the movement in stable positions, the 60-second tourbillon averages out gravitational errors on the escapement by constantly rotating it through 360°. The difference between the rotating tourbillon and rotating constant force device is that the former turns continually while the latter steps in increments of one second.

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The Constant Force Tourbillon is a limited edition of 28 timepieces, and is available in a 46 mm 18-carat red gold case with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and sapphire display back for viewing the superbly hand-finished movement.

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Technical Characteristics

References: 1FCAR.B01A.C112C 18-carat Red Gold Case

Calibre: A&S5119
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, hand-wound, 
39 jewels, diameter 36,8 mm, thickness 6 mm, 
Power reserve 90 h, double barrels,
21'600 vibrations/h
Functions:  
Hours, minutes, true beat seconds, 
Tourbillon, constant force
Movement decoration:
Nickel-silver and steel movement,
Palladium treated bridges and NAC grey treated main plate with Haute  
Horlogerie finishing:
Hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges and brushed surfaces,
screwed gold chatons, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon cage:
Mirror-polished with hand-chamfered polished edges and circular satin-finished surfaces
Dial:  
Anthracite open dial 
Case:   
18-carat red gold, diameter 46 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-
reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back 
Strap:
Hand-stitched brown bottier alligator leather with patina
Water resistance:
30 Meters

Limited edition: 28 timepieces

Press release
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ARNOLD & SON SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland 
info@arnoldandson.com
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ORIS – Thelonious Monk

ORIS – Thelonious Monk Limited Edition NEW

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The Art of Dissonance
Oris unveils Thelonious Monk Limited Edition Watch

Oris is pleased to  introduces the next in its historic line of watches honouring iconic figures from the world of jazz. The Oris Thelonious Monk Limited Edition celebrates the incomparable talents of one of America’s finest jazz pianists and composers.

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Thelonious Monk was one of the guiding lights of modern jazz. He’s remembered in particular for his use of dissonance in his music, a style defined by harmonies that are unstable within an overall harmonic context. In 1944, he wrote Round Midnight, which has since become the most recorded jazz standard composed by a jazz musician.

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The Oris Thelonious Monk Limited Edition is a celebration of Monk’s distinctive style and talent. The 40mm steel watch has a sunray finished smoke blue dial with polished dots, and has the uncommon arrangement of 11 minute markers between the 10 and 12-hour markers, a nod to Monk’s dissonant technique.

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On the reverse, the case back is engraved with the words ‘MONK ALWAYS KNOW’, referring to one of Monk’s many memorable quips inspired by the letters on his custom-made ring. To audiences, the ring appeared to say ‘KNOW’, but when approached, he would explain it read ‘MONK’.

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The watch will be presented in a wooden box with a satin grey lacquer finish and delivered in May 2015, priced CHF 1,800.00.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Oris Thelonious Monk Limited Edition
Ref. No. 733 7712 4085, Ø 40.00mm
Limited to 1,000 pieces

Movement
Automatic movement Oris Cal. 733, (based on SW200)
Case
Polished multi-piece stainless steel case and stainless steel crown
Water resistant to 3 bar
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides and with anti-reflective coating inside
Special engraved case back and engraved limited number
Dial
Sunray finished smoke blue dial with polished dots and nickel hands
Strap
Black leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp
Retail price
Swiss Retail Price CHF 1,800.00
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Media Contact: Oris SA,
CH-4434 Hölstein, Switzerland,
phone + 41 61 956 11 11,
 mail pr@oris.ch
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BREITLING – Colt Chronograph Automatic

BREITLING – COLT Chronograph Automatic NEW


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Born for action

Breitling interprets the technical, understated and efficient styling of the Colt collection in a new chronograph powered by a selfwinding movement. Exactly what it needs to keep ahead of the game, including at the famous Red Bull Air Race for which Breitling serves as official timekeeper.

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The Colt was first launched in the 1980s and initially intended for the armed forces, before appealing to a broad audience because of its sturdiness, its functionality and readability. It has subsequently established itself as the most accessible Breitling model, offering a blend of performance and unusual design.

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Available to date in four versions with well-defined characters, including a quartz chronograph and a ladies’ watch, the Colt collection now welcomes a new selfwinding chronograph equipped with a movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).

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Born for action, feats and thrills, this instrument brilliantly reinterprets all the key assets of the Colt collection, with counters placed at 12, 9 and 6 o’clock.

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The broad unidirectional rotating bezel, with satin-brushed finishes and engraved hour-markers, is distinguished by its four “rider tabs“ – a signature Breitling feature – ensuring both excellent handling and optimal protection of the sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides.

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The 44 mm-diameter polished steel case is water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft) and features a large screw-locked crown with protective reinforcements. The black, blue or silver dials are enlivened by a fine circular raised motif, and their readability is reinforced by oversized hands and hour-markers enhanced by a luminescent coating.

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A chronograph exuding a youthful, dynamic and winning spirit – ready to rise to the exceptional challenge of the Red Bull Air Race, a competition in which Breitling Racing Team pilot Nigel Lamb is the reigning champion.
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 BREITLING – Colt Chronograph Automatic Mariner Blue Dial

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  BREITLING – Colt Chronograph Automatic Stratus Silver Dial

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  BREITLING – Colt Chronograph Automatic Volcano Black Dial

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Technical specifications 

Model: Colt Chronograph Automatic

Reference: A1338811|G804|173A - Stratus Silver Dial
Reference: A1338811|C914|173A - Mariner Blue Dial
Reference: A1338811|BD83|152S - Volcano Black Dial

Movement: 
Breitling Caliber 13,
Selfwinding mechanical Chronograph
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC,
Vibration: 28 800 v.p.h
Jewel: 25 jewels
Power reserve:  42 hours.
Functions:
Chronograph,
1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours (split-second hand)
Calendar.
Dials: Volcano black, Mariner blue, Stratus silver.
Case: 
Steel.
Diameter: 44 mm
Back: Screwed in
Bezel: Unidirectional, ratcheted
Crown:  Screw-locked, two gaskets
Crystal: Sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Water-resistant: 
200 m (660 ft).
Straps/bracelet: 
Leather, rubber Ocean Racer, rubber Diver Pro/Professional.

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MB&F – HM3 MEGAWIND Final Edition

MB&F – Horological Machine HM3 MEGAWIND Final Limited Edition

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SUMMARY
One of the factors that make MB&F Machines so distinctive is the focus on contrast: polished surfaces and matte finishes; precious metals with hard-working steel and titanium; tradition and avant-garde; and bright colours against monochromatic tones. Strong contrasts both catch the eye and engage the mind.

With MEGAWIND Final Edition, the closing model in the HM3 series, MB&F present what may well be the ultimate in contrast: light and dark. The darkness of the black PVD-treated 18k gold case and blackened 22k gold and titanium rotor is punctuated in the dark by the bright green glow of Super-LumiNova. And the light emanating steadily from the indications is in contrast to the stroboscopic flash of light as the rotor covers/uncovers a bright band of lume at the top of the movement.

For this Final Edition, MB&F has called on the latest high-performance Super-LumiNova available on the market today: GL C3 Grade A. This is not only the brightest but also the purest form of the luminescent material, recognisable by its typical green hue; while Super-LumiNova comes in many colours, the active pigments are always green and other colours partially mask the green glow.

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Derived from the iconic HM3 series, MB&F's most successful model to date, MEGAWIND Final Edition combines an oversized winding rotor dial side with highly-legible time indication cones rising up from the asymmetric case: hours are displayed on the left, minutes on the right. An exceptionally-skilled artisan painstakingly applies Super-LumiNova on these conical indications by hand, one numeral after the other, with a small syringe – consistently squeezing out just the right amount of the luminescent paste.

While the viewer’s gaze will naturally be attracted towards the three-dimensional sculptures housing the hours and minutes, it is likely to be the giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that mesmerises the eye as it swings unhurriedly, but indomitably over the meticulously hand-finished movement. It's in the dark however when the rotor really comes alive with light.

MEGAWIND is powered by the beautifully engineered, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht-designed HM3 engine. Placing the rotor and regulator on the dial side required an inverted movement, which was only possible thanks to two large high-tech ceramic bearings –visible through the display back – that efficiently transmit time up to the revolving hour and minute cones above. Rotating domes of this size and shape posed several technical challenges. The hour and minute domes are machined from solid blocks of aluminium, chosen for its optimal strength-to-weight ratio; this keeps energy requirements to an absolute minimum.

Close inspection of the case – which comprises over 50 separate components – is rewarded with a myriad of carefully considered details, including the bevelled perimeter of the rotor display crystal that adds visual flair as the angles catch and reflect flashes of light; the bespoke clover-head gold screws; and the cleverly integrated lugs attaching the strap.

MEGAWIND is powered by the beautifully engineered, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht-designed HM3 engine. Placing the rotor and regulator on the dial side required an inverted movement, which was only possible thanks to two large high-tech ceramic bearings –visible through the display back – that efficiently transmit time up to the revolving hour and minute cones above. Rotating domes of this size and shape posed several technical challenges. The hour and minute domes are machined from solid blocks of aluminium, chosen for its optimal strength-to-weight ratio; this keeps energy requirements to an absolute minimum.
Close inspection of the case – which comprises over 50 separate components – is rewarded with a myriad of carefully considered details, including the bevelled perimeter of the rotor display crystal that adds visual flair as the angles catch and reflect flashes of light; the bespoke clover-head gold screws; and the cleverly integrated lugs attaching the strap.


INSPIRATION AND REALISATION
HM3 has an inverted movement so that its operation can be easily seen from the dial side and MEGAWIND Final Edition follows the same principle. Harmoniously crafted bridges, rapidly oscillating balance wheel, gearing and MB&F’s iconic battle-axe automatic winding rotor are all open to view on the dial side. This allows the wearer to fully appreciate the art and craft of the HM3 engine by drawing the viewer’s gaze inside the highly complex machine; a machine comprising more than 300 fine-finished, high-precision components.
The movement of HM3 has been literally turned upside down to allow for an uninterrupted panorama of the powerfully graceful rotation of the 22k gold and titanium winding rotor and the high-speed oscillations of the balance wheel. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, winner of the inaugural award for Best Watchmaker at the 2007 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, was entrusted with turning the drawings and designs of Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud into horological reality and, with his team at Agenhor, he surpassed the challenge.

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LUME
Until MEGAWIND Final Edition, adding Super-LumiNova to the display was thought to be impossible as the lume has to be hand painted on the curved cones of HM3. While no longer impossible, the technique for applying the lume is anything but straightforward.

White paint is first hand-painted onto the numeral shapes of an indication cone projected flat. A silicon stamp is pressed onto this flat surface to pick up the white paint in the correct shape and then the operator carefully uses the stamp to evenly transfer the paint to the three-dimensional cone. The white paint not only serves as a template but also acts as a reflector for the Super-LumiNova, which is then painstakingly applied by hand as a second layer.

While Super-LumiNova comes in many colours, the active pigments are always green and other colours partially mask the green glow so they are less bright. For HM3 MEGAWIND Final Edition, MB&F uses C3 grade Super-LumiNova, which emits the purest and brightest light.

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INDICATIONS
The hour and minute cones are milled from solid aluminium to paper-thin thickness. The cones are housed within three-dimensional truncated gold and sapphire crystal cones, which are brazed together. Brazing is a high-temperature soldering technique that is aesthetically pleasing and ensures a solid, water-resistant construction.

THE HM3 SERIES
HM3 was first presented in 2009 and in its six years of production became MB&F’s most popular model. The case and movement architecture have given rise to no fewer than 19 different variations: HM3 Starcruiser in red and white gold, HM3 Sidewinder in red and white gold, HM3 ReBel, JWLRYMACHINE in purple and pink versions, HM3 Frog Ti, HM3 Chocolate Frog, HM3 Black Frog (green rotor), HM3 Frog Zr (purple rotor), HM3 Fire Frog, HM3 Poison Dart Frog, MoonMachine in titanium, black and red gold variations, MEGAWIND in red and white gold and last, but certainly not least, MEGAWIND Final Edition.

MEGA ROTOR
Independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva (co-creator of MB&F’s MoonMachine) provided both the initial idea for the large rotor and the name, MEGAWIND. The two 22K gold blades of the iconic MB&F battle-axe rotor on the dial make what is called a ‘mystery’ rotor because, in appearing to be symmetrically balanced instead of having a visibly off-centred mass, they look to defy the laws of physics. This ‘mystery’ is achieved by machining the underside of one of the gold blades to a razor-thin edge, so reducing its mass.

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The MEGAWIND Final Edition rotor adds a layer of stealth (by day) and illumination by night: the titanium and 22K white gold rotor is blackened so that it blends seamlessly with the case. When it's dark however, a thick line of Super-LumiNova is alternately revealed and covered by the turning rotor, adding animated bright flashes from the glowing green lume to the glowing indications.

CERAMIC BEARINGS
Time indications are usually located on the top, or dial side, of a movement. As the movement of HM3 is inverted to display its operation, an efficient solution was needed to bring power from the bottom of the movement to the timekeeping cones at the top. Standard pinions set in jewels would have required complex, friction-generating gearing, and would require support top and bottom – a factor which would increase the height of the movement, and thus the watch.

So instead of standard jewelled pinions, HM3 features two large-diameter (15mm) high-tech ceramic bearings. Because of their large diameter, these bearings minimise the number of friction inducing gears and, due to the rigidity resulting from their ultra-high precision design and manufacture, they only require support at one end (the base) so allow for a thinner movement

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: MB&F MEGAWIND FINAL Edition
Limited Edition of 25 Pieces

Reference: 35.WBTL.B

ENGINE (Movement)
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor;
based on a Sowind oscillator and gear train
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
Automatic winding rotor in 3 parts:
 hub and arms in blackened titanium with outer sections in blackened 22k gold, fastened with 4 rivets
Time indications transmitted via ceramic ball bearings
Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 270
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Hours in C3 Super-LumiNova on one cone
Minutes in C3 Super-LumiNova on second cone
CASE
Black PVD-treated 18k white gold and titanium
Limited edition of 25 pieces, all numbered "1 in 25"
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 17mm
Number of case components: 52
Sapphire cones and front and back display crystals have anti-reflective treatment on both faces
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
Sapphire cones and front and back display crystals have anti-reflective treatment on both
face
Strap & Buckle
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k gold and titanium custom designed folding buckle

Limited to 25 pieces only

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