Saturday, March 21, 2015

Raymond Weil – NABUCCO Inspired by GIBSON Edition


RAYMOND WEILNABUCCO Inspired by GIBSON Limited Edition NEW

RAYMOND WEIL, luxury Swiss watchmaker, proudly announces its new product collaboration with Gibson Brands, the fastest growing company in the music and sound industries, combining forces to create a very special nabucco timepiece that will be unveiled during Baselworld 2015.

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Inspired by the self-tuning Gibson SG Standard, the special edition features four key design features and reinvents them on the dial of the timepiece. A majestic steel and titanium 46mm diameter case houses a black galvanic dial encircled by six grooves symbolizing the strings of the Gibson SG Standard and displays the Gibson logo and iconic emblem at 12 o’clock. The case is finished with a refined grey ceramic tachometer bezel. The nabucco inspired by Gibson has a bespoke RW5010 mechanical chronograph self-winding mechanism with a 46 hour power reserve and features twenty-seven jewels.

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Nabucco, now the spearhead of the RAYMOND WEIL collections is a product that truly conveys and showcases the Swiss Brand’s ability to create watchmaking masterpieces. The range displays all the entrepreneurial credentials of its CEO, Mr. Elie Bernheim.
“We are proud to collaborate with such an iconic music brand as Gibson and to present a unique nabucco limited edition of 200 pieces honouring both music and high-end watchmaking”, declares Elie Bernheim, CEO RAYMOND WEIL.

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Speaking of the partnership, Henry Juszkiewicz, Chairman and CEO, Gibson Brands said, RAYMOND WEIL and Gibson Brands are the perfect combination of excellence and craftsmanship. We are delighted to be aligned with the nabucco line, exceptional timepieces inspired by the highest quality guitars.” 

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RAYMOND WEIL continues to take advantage of its status as a family-owned independent company. For the music-loving watchmaker, music drives and is at the heart of all of its partnerships worldwide.

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Technical Specifications

Reference:  7850 TIR GIBS1

Movement 
Mechanical chronograph – RW5010
Winding Automatic
Power reserve 46 hours
Jewels 27 rubies
Functions
Watch Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
           Round date window at 4h30, red inscription
           Date adjustment pushbutton at 10 o’clock
Chronograph
                      Start, stop and restart using pushbutton at 2 o’clock
                      Reset using pushbutton at 4 o’clock
                      Central chronograph hand
                      30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock, 12 hours counter at 6 o’clock
                      Tachometer ring on the bezel
Case 
Titanium and polished steel
Diameter: 46mm
Thickness: 15.25mm
Bezel Grey ceramic
Crown Steel, screwed down - fluted with RW Monogram
Crystal Sapphire crystal with dual-sided antiglare treatment
Dial Galvanic black – with Gibson ® logo – encircled by 6 grooves evoking
the strings of the guitar
Indexes Luminescent Arabic numerals at 12 o'clock and 8 applied luminescent indexes
Hands
Hours / Minutes 
Boston-shaped and diamond-tipped steel hands with luminescent highlights
Small second Boston-shaped steel hand
Chronograph Red steel type, baton-shaped
Counters Red steel type, Boston-shaped
Case back Screwed-down, with sapphire crystal
Strap 
Black rubber alligator style with black stitching,
equipped with a RW titanium and polished steel folding clasp with double push security system
Water resistance 20 ATM

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Friday, March 20, 2015

MB&F – L’Epee 1839 MELCHIOR Edition


MB&FPerformance Art L’Epée 1839 MELCHIOR 'Dark and Light' Robot Concept Edition NEW

Founded in 2005, MB&F celebrates its first decade in 2015; to commemorate this milestone, the Geneva-based Horological lab will present a number of Anniversary Pieces during the year, under the theme: ”A creative adult is a child who survived”. The first piece is Melchior, created with L’Epée 1839: an impressive kinetic robot which may remind you of your childhood dreams, but also happens to be an impeccably finished, 480-component mechanical table clock.

Indeed, with his smart steel and brass armour, enigmatic glint in his eyes, animated brain and muscular, articulated arms – the right one packing a rocket launcher, the left a Gatling gun – Melchior is the robot buddy you would want by your side while trying to thwart Darth Vader. But look again and you will see Melchior is a majestic high-end table clock featuring jumping hours, sweeping minutes, double retrograde seconds and a 40-day power reserve; a tribute to refined, classic clock- and watchmaking.

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Conceived and developed by concept lab MB&F, and engineered and crafted by L’Epée 1839 – Switzerland's only specialised high-end clock manufacture – Melchior is the result of Maximilian Büsser’s quest to revisit his childhood hankering for a robot friend.

“A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, man’s best friend was his robot,” says Büsser. “As a 10-year-old fan of Star Wars, I knew Luke Skywalker could never have prevailed had it not been for droids like R2-D2 – a loyal, resourceful and brave robot who was always saving his friends. As an only child, I imagined having my own robot companion… Melchior makes that childhood fantasy a reality.”

Christening this roboclock ‘Melchior’ – after a traditional forename in his family – Büsser developed the concept with designer Xin Wang, selecting a high-end L’Epée clock movement and reimagining it as the mechanical head and torso of a robot. Jumping hours and sweeping minutes on Melchior’s chest are displayed via discs bearing MB&F’s signature numerals – with pointers incorporated into the breastplate – while a dial on Melchior’s abdomen is the power reserve indicator. And this robot’s self-sufficiency is to be admired, for the finely-finished, highly-visible movement boasts a power reserve of 40 days – for most table clocks, it is eight days – thanks to five main spring barrels which help make up Melchior’s rippling torso. The barrels are in series for optimal performance.

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The retrograde action of Melchior’s expressive eyes marks off intervals of 20 seconds. A combination of fixed vents and revolving discs, both bearing radial propeller motifs, gives the impression that Melchior is closing and opening his eyes – the resulting blinking effect endows the robot with a hint of endearing human-like personality.

Further animation is provided by the regulator, its gentle beating and intricate composition made visible thanks to its polished glass dome cover. If the protective dome acts like a skull, then the regulator symbolises Melchior’s brain at work; just as the brain governs the body, the regulator governs the clock’s remarkable precision.

A true robot companion is one you can play with and Melchior doesn’t disappoint. His steel upper arms rotate and his lower arms pivot up or down – excellent manoeuvrability for aiming his rocket launcher or Gatling gun to blast away the bad guys. And in a neat design touch, his gun detaches and doubles as the winding/setting key for the movement.

MELCHIOR – A ROBOT-CUM-TABLE CLOCK

Melchior comprises no fewer than 480 components, each one machined and finished at L’Epée’s Swiss atelier, bar the 50 movement jewels. An impressive 334 components make up the movement, while another 146 pieces comprise Melchior’s bodywork and armour. Such was the originality of MB&F’s robot concept that L’Epée needed to develop several new components: Machining, finishing and assembling a piece like the bulging glass dome forming Melchior’s skull was a first for L’Epée, as was crafting a stainless steel winding/time-setting key to resemble a Gatling gun.

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The winding/time-setting key clips into Melchior’s left elbow joint socket. It is held by a small magnet strong enough to hold the key, but not so powerful as to affect the function of the movement. The key boasts a double-depth square socket that neatly fits over both of the square pegs on the back of Melchior. One of the pegs is for winding the movement, the other for time-setting.

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Working from MB&F’s design, L’Epée diligently developed the various bodywork and armour components, carefully choosing materials according to the properties required. Where precision was critical – Melchior’s kinetic parts or his precision rocket launcher, for instance – plated brass was selected. His armour on the other hand is crafted mainly in stainless steel, providing optimal resistance to withstand any enemy attacks. And for the finishing touch, L’Epée have applied a range of eye-catching finishes to Melchior’s bodywork – including anglage, mirror polishing, satin finishing, circular satin finishing, sand-blasting and polishing.

L’Epée are amazing, a joy to work with,” says Maximilian Büsser. “They always step up to the plate, no matter how original, how challenging the design”.

For L’Epée CEO Arnaud Nicolas, the positive feeling is mutual. “We had a real blast making Melchior with MB&F,” he says. “Melchior is not just a table clock, it is a kinetic sculpture for eternal children and includes lots of small details, the type that we love working on at L’Epée. It was a stimulating technical challenge”.
Arnaud Nicolas adds: “There is a real majesty about Melchior. When we first saw the plans for it, we knew it was going to be good. But only after making the first prototype did we realise quite how special it was going to be. On that day we knew MB&F’s creativity had pushed us once again to a place no one had gone before...”

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MELCHIOR’S MOVEMENT IN FOCUS

To create Melchior’s highly visible movement, L’Epée developed a completely new skeletonised mainplate, in palladium-plated brass, which sandwiches the movement mechanism, also in palladium-plated brass. This mainplate – which forms the ribcage, breastplate, cheekbones and backbones of the robot – is black PVD-treated for the ‘dark-and-light’ edition of Melchior.

For clear reading of the hour, L’Epée developed a ‘slow’ jumping hour. This in-house complication sees the hour disc remain static for 55 minutes, then start to turn five minutes before the new hour so that the change of hour is smooth and subtle.

The movement regulator features an Incabloc shock protection system, which minimises the risk of damage when the clock is being transported. This sort of shock protection is generally only seen in wristwatches. In fact, Melchior’s exclusive table clock movement features the same type of mechanisms as a wristwatch – gear train, mainspring barrel (here five, in series), balance wheel, escape wheel and anchor – but their dimensions are far larger.

The movement also features superlative fine finishing – Côtes de Genève, anglage, polishing, sand-blasting, circular and vertical satin finishing – that is seen on a wristwatch. However, finely finishing a clock movement is far more challenging than finishing a wristwatch because of the greater surface areas of the larger components. L’Epée CEO Arnaud Nicolas explains: “It’s not simply a case of double the size of the components, double the time it takes to finish them. The complexity increases exponentially. For polishing, for example, you need to apply the same pressure as when finishing a watch movement but on a bigger surface. Any variation in that pressure will show up in the finishing, so a skilled and steady hand is required to apply uniform pressure.”

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THE NAME ‘MELCHIOR’
Fictional robots often possess monikers sounding like acronyms or reference numbers – think of HAL 9000, C-3PO or K-9. But Max Büsser was eager to christen this one ‘Melchior’.
He explains: “In the Büsser family, for over five centuries from the 1400s onwards, every eldest Büsser son was either called Melchior or Balthazar. It alternated. My grandfather was called Melchior and hated it, so he had everybody call him Max, which is how I became a Max. My grandfather hated the Melchior-Balthazar thing so much that he put an end to this 500-year-old tradition by calling my father Mario… Now, a century later, I happen to love the name Melchior!”

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: MB&F Performance Art L’Epée 1839 MELCHIOR Edition

Limited Edition of 99 Pieces

DISPLAY
Jumping hours and sweeping minutes:
Twin discs forming part of Melchior’s breast plate, one disc displaying hours,
the other disc minutes, both featuring MB&F's signature numerals
Retrograde seconds:
Flyback discs mark 20-second intervals behind a steel mask
Power reserve indicator: 
Dial on abdomen providing intuitive view of remaining energy
ENGINE (Movement)
L’Epée in-house designed and manufactured movement
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph / 2.5Hz
Barrels: 5 in series
Power reserve: 40 days
Movement components: 334
Jewels: 50
Incabloc shock protection system
Mechanism in palladium-plated brass
Manual-winding: double-depth square socket key sets time and winds movement
Movement finishing: includes Côtes de Genève, anglage, polishing,
sand-blasting, circular and vertical satin finishing
MELCHIOR’S BODY AND ARMOUR
Dimensions: 30.3cm x 21.7cm (depending on position of the arms) x 11.2cm
Weight: 6.3kg
Body/armour components: 146
HEAD
Dome:
Polished glass screwed via polished and bevelled palladium-plated brass bezel
Retrograde seconds display in stainless steel
Movement mainplate in palladium-plated brass
TORSO
Breastplate (forming hour and minute hands) in palladium-plated brass
Abdomen (power reserve indicator frame) in stainless steel
Ribcage/spine (formed by skeletonised mainplate) in palladium-plated brass 
LEGS
Pelvis, thighs, shins and feet in stainless steel
Hips (long central bars joining pelvis) in stainless steel
SHOULDERS AND ARMS
Shoulders, upper arms and lower arm sockets in stainless steel; magnet in left arm socket
Right forearm: screwed-in rocket with chrome-plated brass body and stainless steel warhead
Left forearm: Gatling gun/detachable stainless steel winding key with palladium-plated brass
Body and armour finishing includes anglage, mirror polishing, satin finishing, circular
satin finishing, sand-blasting, polishing. ‘Shoulders’, ‘pelvis’ and skeletonised
mainplate treated with black PVD for the two-tone ‘dark and light’ edition of Melchior 

Limited to 99 pieces and is available in a monochromatic ‘light’ edition or a two-tone ‘dark and light’ edition featuring black PVD-treated components.

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