Saturday, March 14, 2015

A. Lange & Söhne – ZEITWERK Minute Repeater

A. Lange & Söhne ZEITWERK Minute Repeater NEW

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A new sound of time – the first Lange watch with a decimal minute repeater

In the exalted category of chiming wristwatches, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is a technical sensation: articulately designed, it combines a mechanical jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater for the first time.

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The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is the first A. Lange & Söhne model with a striking mechanism that sounds the hours, ten-minute intervals, and minutes. The acoustic sequence precisely reproduces the digitally displayed time whenever the striking mechanism is triggered with a pusher. The dial time is sounded with a low-pitched tone for each elapsed hour, a double tone for each elapsed ten-minute period, and a high-pitched tone for each elapsed minute.

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When they developed the strikework for the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER, the engineers were able to harness the basic principle of the jumping numerals mechanism. The time is displayed with an hour ring and two minute discs instead of with hands. Three snails connected with these mechanical display elements separately sample the number of hours, ten-minute intervals, and minutes to be acoustically indicated.

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In place of the conventional slide, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER features an elaborate pusher system for activating the striking mechanism. To maximise the quality of the sound, the engineers calibrated the movement with the case down to the smallest detail.

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The tuning process requires acute hearing and is performed manually to achieve harmony and reverberation of each gong separately and to assure perfect sonority in unison.

Engineered down to the tiniest detail

Countless work steps and extensive fine-tuning are required to guarantee the smooth interaction and long-term functional integrity of all mechanisms of which the 771-part movement is composed. To rule out unintended, potentially damaging manipulations, the designers incorporated a very useful safety feature.

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Since mechanical conflicts would occur if the owner were to set the time during a chiming sequence, the crown cannot be pulled while the striking mechanism is active: when activated, the winding train is uncoupled from the ratchet wheel that powers it.

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This precaution prevents the winding wheel train including the crown from turning while the gongs are being struck, which would waste a considerable amount of energy. Additionally, the switching of the numeral discs is delayed until the chiming sequence has ended. This takes about 20 seconds for the maximum succession of tones at 12:59.

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The acoustic time indication therefore always corresponds to the time displayed on the dial. To assure that the repeater sequence is not prematurely interrupted due to the depletion of the mainspring’s power – in which case the watch would stop running as well –, the striking mechanism can no longer be activated if the remaining power reserve is less than twelve hours.

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On the power-reserve indicator, this point is identified with a red mark. Because the mainspring powers the striking mechanism via the ratchet wheel, the number of minute repeater activations and their duration will influence the availability of the underlying power reserve of 36 hours.

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The contemporary face of a grand tradition

With its eminently legible jumping numerals display, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER stands out as a paragon of eloquent design.

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The patented constant-force escapement delivers a uniform amount of energy during the entire power-reserve period. As the source of the switching impulses, it reliably controls the numerals display minute by minute.


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The L043.5 manufacture calibre inside the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is lavishly and meticulously hand-finished. Beneath the hand-engraved balance cock, the balance wheel with eccentric poising weights and a free-sprung balance spring crafted in-house breathes with a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour. The resonant timekeeping instrument with a diameter of 44.2 millimetres is available exclusively in platinum.

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The solid-silver dial shimmers with a rhodié hue. Made of black-rhodiumed German silver, the time bridge prominently frames the hour and minute numeral apertures that are located on the same plane. The black-polished steel gong hammers are visibly arranged on both sides of the subsidiary seconds dial. The hours are struck on the left, the single minutes on the right. For the double-tone ten-minute counts, both hammers strike both gongs slightly offset in time.

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Lange's ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is the second model of the ZEITWERK family to be endowed with an acoustic time indication.

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With its unusual design, it represents a further milestone in A. Lange & Söhne's impressive repertoire of innovative timepiece concepts

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Technical Specifications

Model:  ZEITWERK Minute Repeater
Ref: 147.025F

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L043.5;
Manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,
decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions;
three quarter plate made of untreated German silver;
balance cock engraved by hand; constant-force escapement
Movement dimensions:
Diameter: 37.7 millimetres; height: 10.9 millimetres
Movement parts: 771
Jewels: 93
Screwed gold chatons: 3
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: 
Shock-resistant balance wheel with eccentric poising weights;
balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour;
precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound if the striking mechanism is not activated
Functions 
Time display in hours and minutes with precisely jumping numeral discs,
subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, power reserve indicator,
striking mechanism with decimal minute repeater
Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; pusher for activating the striking mechanism
Case 
Platinum
Diameter: 44.2 millimetres; height: 14.1 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9) 
Dial 
Solid silver, rhodié
Time Bridge: Black rhodiumed German silver
Hand: Rhodiumed gold 
Strap 
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap, black
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in platinum
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Friday, March 13, 2015

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Vintage 1945 Lady





















GIRARD-PERREGAUXVintage 1945 Lady Brown Dial NEW

Girard-Perregaux once again pays tribute to femininity by unveiling a new version of its Vintage 1945 Lady model with an exclusive taupe and chocolate-coloured dial and a steel case set with 30 diamonds. Its classic, timeless style is directly inspired by a model created 70 years ago, the mechanical intricacies and endearing subtleties of which will seduce even the most elegant of our discerning female clientele. 

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Inspired by a model dating from 1945, the Vintage 1945 watch renews the codes of Art Deco, remaining faithful to the spirit of the original across the decades. The latest addition to this emblematic collection has been conceived as the ideal companion in every situation for female connoisseurs of Fine Watchmaking.

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The new Vintage 1945 Lady watch presents an elegant face with its dial coloured chocolate and taupe, delicately decorated at its centre with a trail of 42 brilliant-cut diamonds. Inspired by the models that originated this collection, its gem-setting highlights a "rail track"-type minute-marking. The elegantly diamond-polished, dauphine-type hands are curved by the watchmaker by hand so as to follow the contours of the dial.

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Delicately domed, its steel case is flanked by two brancards set with 30 diamonds that illuminate its gentle Art Deco-inspired design. With their discreet ornamentation, the gadroons at the base of each lug are additional examples of this influence. The watch’s doubly convex curves create a harmonious interplay of areas, while at the same time providing the wearer with maximum comfort on the wrist.

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At the heart of this elegant timepiece beats an exceptional movement following in the long watchmaking tradition of the Manufacture. The GP02700 automatic-winding mechanical calibre is a reduced-size movement that has been specially adapted for ladies' watch models. Designed and produced in the Manufacture's own workshops and containing 178 components, it has a diameter of 19.40 mm and is 4,20 mm thick. It offers hours, minutes and date indications and has a 36-hour power reserve. Its case-back, held in place by screws and fitted with sapphire crystal, reveals all the sophistication of its calibre and its remarkable finishes, including that of its oscillating weight, engraved with a delicate "tapestry" of Girard-Perregaux logos.

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This watchmaking jewel is attached to the wrist by means of either an alligator strap of the same colour as the dial with a triple folding clasp, or a stainless steel bracelet.

A few details concerning the Girard-Perregaux caliber GP02700

The latest addition to the Manufacture's range of automatic-winding calibres, the GP02700 has a compact, sophisticated structure. With a diameter of 19.40 mm and a thickness of 4.20 mm, it is perfectly suited for driving ladies' watch models.
  • Its unidirectional rotor is fitted with ceramic ball-bearings requiring no lubrication.
  • It has an escape-wheel pivoting between two combined settings. 
  • Its transversal balance-cock offers greater precision for controlling the shake of the balance. This solution consolidates its long-term performance and reliability and makes it considerably easier to set for watchmakers.
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Technical Specifications
  
Ref: 25860D11A1A2-CKBA (Chocolate alligator strap )
Ref: 25860D11A1A2-11A (Steel bracelet )

Case: steel
Dimensions: 28.20 x 27.86 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Dial: two colors, brown lacquered
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by four screws
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 atM)
Setting
Bezel: 30 brilliant-cut diamonds, ~0.55 ct
Dial: 42 brilliant-cut diamonds, ~0.105 ct
Total setting: 72 brilliant-cut diamonds, ~0.655 ct
Calibre:
Girard-Perregaux movement GP02700-0003
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 19.40 mm (8 3/4’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 vib/h - (4 hz)
Power reserve: min. 36 hours
Jewels: 26
Functions: hour, minute, date  
Chocolate alligator strap, grey alligator lining strap with grey stitching 
Triple safety folding buckle in steel
Reference: 25860D11A1A2-CKBA
Steel bracelet
Triple safety folding buckle in steel
Reference: 25860D11A1A2-11A
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