Tuesday, February 24, 2015

IWC – PORTUGIESER PC Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary















IWC Schaffhausen PORTUGUESER Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary Limited Edition NEW


In 2015, the large digital date and month display becomes a dominant feature of the IWC Portugieser watch family. Limited to just 25 watches in platinum and 75 in each of the red gold editions, the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is equipped with a wealth of sophisticated complications that are available in this combination only from IWC Schaffhausen.

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The digital perpetual calendar is one of the outstanding technological advances made by the Schaffhausen-based watchmaking company. With the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. 3972), the Portugieser watch family now includes a model featuring a digital display for the date and month. This exclusive timepiece packs a wealth of IWC watchmaking expertise into its 45-millimetre case: perpetual calendar, large digital date, leap year display, chronograph with flyback function and the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre with its quick-action switch and efficient double-pawl winding mechanism.

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On the occasion of its relaunch to mark the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser family, the watch is fitted with an arched-edge front glass and Santoni alligator leather strap and has an attractive new calibre design. The watch is limited to 25 pieces in platinum and 75 pieces each in 18-carat red gold with either a black or silver-plated dial.

CHANGING WAYS OF SEEING THINGS IN THE COURSE OF TIME

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” makes allowances for the different ways of seeing things that have developed over the centuries: the dial combines two striking, highly legible analogue displays (time and chronograph) with three digital ones (date, month and leap year). Today, most people prefer to read the time with the help of hands but are happy if the date is shown in figures. This was not always so, as can be demonstrated by the example of the time of day. In 1884, IWC unveiled its first Pallweber-style pocket watches with a jumping digital display showing the hours and minutes. The watches were an enormous hit, but then, after just 3 years, the craze was over.

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When digital time displays were embraced on a massive scale with the quartz watches of the 1970s, the watchmakers in Schaffhausen stuck to their guns and continued to use hour and minute hands. And for a good reason: on a digital display, the abstract information contained, for instance, in “11:45” first needs to be mentally processed, whereas the spatial arrangement of the hands on an analogue watch is understood quickly and intuitively. It is, simply, “quarter to twelve”.

DISPLAYING STOP TIMES IS UNCANNILY SIMPLE

Just how intensively the designers in Schaffhausen have thought about our habitual ways of seeing things can be seen from the chronograph display on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month “75th Anniversary”. While considering whether there was a way to make the figures in the various subdials of a conventional chronograph easier to process, they hit on the idea of displaying the stopped hours and minutes in a totalizer – just like the time of day. The stopped seconds continued to be shown by the central seconds hand. From a design point of view this may seem ingeniously simple, but technically speaking it is very difficult to implement.

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To turn the “watch-within-a-watch” concept into reality, a team at IWC worked for 4 years on the in-house 89360-calibre chronograph movement with its particularly efficient double-pawl winding mechanism. In this assembly, four pawls arranged diagonally to the pawl wheel – in other words two sets of double-pawls – convey the push-and-pull motion from the rotor to the barrel. This solution eliminates dead spots during winding and boosts the system’s efficiency by a significant 30 percent.

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 The further-developed in-house 89801 calibre is now used in the Reference 3972. Like its predecessor, it features an integrated flyback function that enables the user to reset the running stopwatch hands to zero simply by pushing the button, and to start another timing sequence immediately.

AN ENTIRE DIAL SET IN MOTION

It is said that some proud owners of an IWC timepiece equipped with the Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month movement put the complex mechanics of their watches to the test on New Year’s Eve by starting the chronograph just before midnight. Precisely at the moment that the new year begins the entire dial is set in motion: six hands advance slowly while two large display discs and a smaller one also move forward with a distinctive and (due to the commotion caused by celebrations) barely perceptible click. Despite this tour de force of precision mechanics, the interplay between the complications does not affect the precision of the movement, even if there is hardly any more tension in the spring.

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Where does the IWC manufactured 89801 calibre get all this power? The secret is a second source of energy, the so-called quick-action switch. Every night, when the date display moves forward, the switch siphons off a little of the energy, stores it and then discharges it precisely at the end of the month or year when, in addition to the date and month disc, the leap year disc also needs to be advanced. The perpetual calendar can be set easily using the crown. It will not require correction until 2100, a year that breaks with the conventional 4-year cycle and will not be a leap year.

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The see-through sapphire-glass back provides a view of the meticulously finished movement consisting of 474 individual parts. Following further development, the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre now has a number of new features: the rotor and the inset “Probus Scafusia” medallion are now slightly more delicate in design and made of solid red gold. Other new highlights include the decorative blued screws, which together with the red jewels and the Geneva stripes on the plate constitute an attractive ensemble.

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Technical Specifications

 Model: PORTUGUESE Edition Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 75th Anniversary
 

Reference: IW397201  Limited Edition to 25 case in platinum, silver-plated dial watches
Reference: IW397202  Limited Edition to 75 case in 18-carat red gold, black dial watches
Reference: IW397203  Limited Edition to 75 case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial watches

FEATURES
Mechanical chronograph movement
Self-winding – IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre (89000-calibrefamily)
Perpetual calendar – Large, double-digit displays for the day and monthn Leap year display
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
Flyback function – Small hacking seconds
See-through sapphire-glass back – Rotor made of 18-carat red gold
    Limited Edition to 25 watches
MOVEMENT
    Calibre: 89801
    Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
    Jewels: 51
    Power reserve: 68 h
    Winding: automatic
WATCH
Materials:
  • Ref. IW397201: case in platinum, silver-plated dial, black
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in platinum
  • Ref. IW397202: case in 18-carat red gold, black dial, dark brown
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold
  • Ref. IW397203: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown
alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold 
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45 mm
Case height: 16,5 mm

* IWC Schaffhausen is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova® trademark.
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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Monday, February 23, 2015

A. Lange & Söhne – DATOGRAPH Up/Down in Pink Gold


A. Lange & SöhneDATOGRAPH Up/Down in Pink Gold NEW

A chronograph classic restyled

Three years after it was first presented, the DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN is now available in a second version as well: in a pink-gold case with a black solid-silver dial.

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Launched in 2012, the DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN is endowed with milestone technical features: A classic column-wheel control mechanism, a precisely jumping minute counter and a flyback function come together in a movement that showcases true engineering finesse.

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The aesthetic quality of the calibre is reflected by the balanced dial layout with the characteristic Lange outsize date and the two argenté subsidiary dials for the seconds and the minute counter forming an equilateral triangle.

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The UP/DOWN attribute is standard Lange terminology for the power-reserve indicator. UP stands for the maximum power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound, while DOWN means that the energy of the mainspring has been depleted and the pink-gold arrow enters the red zone of the indicator.

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The black dial made of solid silver is embedded in an 18-carat pink-gold case with a diameter of 41.0 millimetres. Luminous hands and pink-gold baton hour markers accentuate the systematic design concept.

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The sapphire-crystal caseback allows many components to be observed in action, for instance those of the precisely jumping minute counter, which assures precise time measurement, or the column wheel that controls the chronograph functions.

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Composed of 451 parts, the L951.6 manufacture calibre unites all typical Lange quality hallmarks, such as the sturdy three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, lavishly finished movement parts, a hand-engraved balance cock and four gold chatons secured with screws.

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These assets make this calibre one of the most seductive manifestations of A. Lange & Söhne’s competence in chronograph design.

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Technical Specifications

Model: DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN
Ref: 405.031

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L951.6;
Manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand
Diameter: 30.6 millimetres; height: 7.9 millimetres
Movement parts: 451
Jewels: 46
Screwed gold chatons: 4
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant balance wheel with eccentric poising weights; balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 60 hours when fully wound
Functions 
Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds;
Flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter; power-reserve indicator; outsize date
Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, two pushers for operating the chronograph, one rapid correction pusher for the outsize date
Case 
Pink gold
Diameter: 41.0 millimetres;
height: 13.1 millimetres
Dial 
Solid silver, black; subsidiary dials argenté
Hands: Pink-gold hour and minute hands, luminous;
Chronograph hand in gold-plated steel; seconds and minute-counter hands in blued steel
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Strap 
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap, red brown
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in pink gold

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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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