Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Ulysse Nardin – Imperial Blue












Ulysse NardinImperial Blue Flying Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW
Radiating light, as if suspended in time by a flying tourbillon, this Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon bears witness to the ultimate mastery of the watchmaker’s art. 
The world of fine watchmaking is like a complex maze full of centers of ingenuity, traditional workshops and daring laboratories, interconnected by the long corridors of history. A world populated by passionate, groundbreaking and erudite individuals, both traditional craftspeople and guardians of the vitality of this ancestral art. Within this world, there lies a unique place, the heart of horological excellence, known only by the chosen few. This place is so enchanting that it seems as if natural laws have been suspended, know-how has made way for learning, and apprenticeship has become the handing-down of secrets. Here, in this annex to eternity, the Imperial Blue was born. Showcasing a transparent mainplate on which floats a flying tourbillon, adorned with a blue-tinged sapphire bridge that leaves no room for doubt as to its noble origins, this luminous yet mysterious watch holds within it a Sonnerie Westminster Carillon. The quintessential watch complication, it rings out on four notes for every passing hour and also sounds the hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand. It is an object of immense rarity.

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While Grande Sonnerie wristwatches today are the exclusive domain of some half-dozen prestigious manufactures, the invention of this function dates back, paradoxically, to the origins of watchmaking. In around 1300, a century before most dials and hands made their appearance, the first monumental clocks were designed to "sound" the time, so they could be heard from a distance or at night. Over time, the bells on these mechanisms were made increasingly smaller, until they fitted into table-top clocks, then pocket watches.

Ulysse Nardin occupies an illustrious place in the history of Sonnerie watches. In 1893, at the Chicago World’s Fair, it was the only watchmaker to win a gold medal for its minute-repeater chronograph. A century later, Ulysse Nardin was also one of the first to revive the tradition of Jaquemart watches, with the San Marco in 1989, followed by the Genghis Khan. Now, once again, the watchmaker has retained its place in the pantheon of fine watchmaking with its Imperial Blue. Not content with the huge number of technical challenges overcome by the miniaturization of this Sonnerie mechanism, which combines a minute-repeater with the sounding of the passing hours, the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture has added a date indicator at 12 o’clock, which can be quickly adjusted using a pusher at 2 o’clock .

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Energy management was undoubtedly the most difficult aspect of crafting this masterpiece. The sounding of the passing hours, as well as the hours, quarter-hours and minutes on demand, is powered by the same barrel. This barrel is wound either partially by activating the repeater slide on the case middle at 9 o’clock or fully by rotating the crown counterclockwise. When rotated clockwise, the crown winds a second barrel that is dedicated to the movement, with a 50-hour power reserve. Furthermore, an ingenious system controls the level of energy available, thereby always guaranteeing a fully operating Sonnerie.

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Thus, every hour, a delightful sparkling melody “Sol” rises from the watch case. However, if desired, an on-off pusher at 11 o’clock on the back of the case ensures that the mechanical masterpiece stays silent. Perhaps this allows more attention to be paid to the minute-repeater, which on the Imperial Blue features a captivating Westminster chime played on four notes. Once activated and released, the repeater slide instantly sets the hammers dancing and the gongs singing.

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It is an enchanting symphony, punctuated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, as if suspended in time, levitating on its sapphire plate. The delicate openwork hour and minute hands are adjusted using the crown, which also features a safety system that stops the sounding of the passing hours while the time is being corrected.

In the colors of white-gold and blue-tinged sapphire, bathed in light, the Imperial Blue is a watch for the connoisseur. Just 20 numbered pieces will be produced, each bearing witness to the ultimate mastery of the watchmaker’s art.

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Technical Specifications

Reference: 9700-125

 Limited Edition 20 pieces

Movement:
Caliber  UN-970
84 jewels, bridges and plate in sapphire
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Winding: Manual winding
Functions:
Flying tourbillon
Display of the hours, minutes and date 12 o’clock
Sonnerie Westminster Carillon
Striking of hours automatically, repeating hours, quarters, minutes on demand
Four different chimes (Mi-Do-Re-Sol)
Case:
18 ct white gold
Dial: Combined transparent mainplate/blue-tinged sapphire, 12
Diameter: 46 mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel 18 ct white gold
Crown: Screw-down security crown
Water-resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Strap:
Exclusive blue Leather strap, with folding buckle.
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 Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
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www.facebook.com - Ulysse Nardin

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www.Ulysse-Nardin.ch

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

DeWitt – ACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece


DeWittACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece - Robb Report 2014

DeWitt is unveiling an extraordinary technical innovation, the Academia watch, a unique piece. 

It was designed by Count Jérôme de Witt and his teams, at the request of Robb Report, for an impassioned watch collector for whom it will be made exclusively.


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Based on a vintage drawing from the personal collection of Jérôme de Witt, the calibre of the watch is unique, as is every component part. 

The elements of the movement have been redesigned, rebuilt and decorated by hand according to the traditional expertise and the very high level of finishing of the DeWitt manufacture.
This amazing watchmaking creation includes ten functions in a single watch: an unparalleled technical feat.

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-  Minute repeater
-  Chronograph
-  Reverse split-second flyback
-  Moon phase
-  Day/night indicator
-  Dual time-zone display
-  Automaton for chiming
-  Hours
-  Minutes
-  Central second

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Ten functions!
Including some that have been invented and added to the basic mechanica movement by DeWitt master watchmakers:
  • - moon phase
  • - dual time-zone display
  • - day/night indicator
To perfect one of the purest and most complex complications, the chronograph and fly-back are activated by a single central push-piece.
The exceptional fly-back function is rare in watchmaking design, with the wheel of the fly-back located in the centre, turning around the chronograph wheel.
The second time zone function is regulated using a direct drive corrector that allows for optimal comfort and faster winding. 

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In total, between 500 and 600 watch parts make up this remarkable calibre.
The Academia case is decorated with the famous DeWitt imperial column motif. With a diameter of 46 mm, and water resistance to 30 metres, it will be available in 18-carat rose gold or platinum, according to the buyer's preference.

On the left side of the case is the repeater slide to activate the striking mechanism, which is set off at certain times through an ingenious and poetic automaton system.
On the upper part of the guilloché dial of the watch, at 12 o'clock, an entirely hand made mechanism opens a window when the minute repeater is engaged. 
The doors disappear and reveal, around the decorative music note, an animated motif that symbolically illustrates the propagation of sound.

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The doors close once more as soon as the chime stops.
The buyer of this exceptional piece will also be given the opportunity to adapt the colours and finishes of the dial of the piece, in concert with DeWitt's dial specialists, who will hand craft the piece in the manufacture.
The particularly refined finishes of the Academia Unique Piece watch, which can be seen through the sapphire case back, testify to the expertise of the artisan craftsmanship.

DeWitt is pleased and proud to have designed this exceptional watchmaking feat that awaits its owner, for 1’695’000 dollars for the platinum version and 1’650’000 dollars for the rose gold version.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ACADEMIA Unique Piece

Reference : AC.UP.001

Movement
Calibre: Ref DW9901
Mechanical manually wound movement integrating 11
Diameter: 39.1 mm
Thickness: 3.8 mm
Vibrations: 18,000 vph
Balance: Bi-metallic screwed balance
Spiral: Blued Breguet spiral
Escapement: Swiss lever
Jewels: 35 minimum
Number of components: Estimated at 550, according to the final design specifications
Functions
Minute repeater that includes a mechanism(automaton) that is activated when the chime sounds and opens to reveal the movement of the racks as well as an animated module that represents the chime, chronograph, reverse split-seconds, dual time, moon phase, day/night indicator, tachymeter, hours, minutes, seconds
Case
Round case
Material: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 14.8 mm
Crown: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold polished crown, “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Silvered guilloché dial, to be customised according to the client
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Alligator leather
Buckle: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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blog.dewitt.ch
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www.DeWitt.ch