Monday, October 6, 2014

PANERAI – RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO – 47mm PAM598


OFFICINE PANERAI RADIOMIR 3 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO47mm PAM598 Special Edition 2014

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Officine Panerai presents a rare Special Edition of the Radiomir in red gold, with GMT function and the sophisticated workmanship of the P.3001/10 visible through the back

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A simple, linear design, faithful to that of 1936, and sophisticated technical content which can be truly perceived only through the closest inspection: the new Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso – 47mm is a Special Edition of great elegance which incorporates the fascinating combination of history, design and technology that is sought after by lovers of high quality watchmaking.

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From the aesthetic point of view, the appearance of the new Special Edition is a harmonious combination of the deep blue of the dial and the alligator strap with the warm glow of the case made of 5Npt red gold, an alloy which owes its coloration and resistance to oxidation to its high proportion of copper combined with a percentage of platinum.

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The case design and the dial have the unmistakable simplicity and ease of reading of all Panerai watches, an invaluable inheritance from the brand’s history:

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... the case has the cushion shape characteristic of the first watch created by Officine Panerai for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy in 1936 and it has the historic diameter of 47 mm;

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... with its sandwich structure and satiné soleil finish, the dial is plain apart from practical elements such as the classic seconds counter at 9 o’clock and the date window at 3 o’clock.

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The P.3001/10 calibre, entirely developed and made by the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, can be admired through the wide window in the back. This hand-wound calibre has the GMT function, so useful for travellers who need a timepiece which can indicate the time in two different time zones, and a power reserve of three days, with the power reserve indicator in the back.

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In this new Radiomir the calibre is a very sophisticated version, with the bridges and two spring barrels skeletonised, all edges being chamfered and polished. 
 
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The skeletonisation reveals the fine details of the finish, such as the perlage of the plate, the wheelwork and the gilded engraving; also the operation of the watch can be seen, for example the winding and unwinding of the springs in the barrels while the watch is being wound or running.

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The new Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso – 47mm (PAM00598) is a Special Edition created in 200 units and it has been tested for water-resistance to 5 bar (a depth of about 50 metres).

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: RADIOMIR 3 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO – 47mm
 
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Reference: PAM00598.
Unique edition of 200 units
 

Movement:
Hand-wound mechanical with skeletonised bridges,
Panerai P.3001/10 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai,
16½ lignes, 6.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance,
21,600 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device.
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels.
207 components.
Functions:
 
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, second time zone,
 power reserve indicator on the back.
Case:
 
Diameter 47 mm,
18 ct. polished red gold with removable wire loop strap attachments (patented).
Screw-down winding crown personalized OP.
Bezel:
18 ct. polished red gold.
Back:
See-through sapphire crystal.
Dial:
 
Blue with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal:
 
Sapphire, formed of corundum, 1.4 mm thick.
Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance:
5 bar (~ 50 metres).
Strap:

PANERAI personalised alligator strap and 18 ct. polished red gold buckle.


* Officine Panerai is not the owner of the Glucydur® and Incabloc® trademarks.

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Sunday, October 5, 2014

BREITLING – Chronomat 44 RAVEN


















BREITLINGChronomat 44 RAVEN NEW

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The embodiment of performance

A black case and dial combined with ultra-sporty orange accents. A Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 with a décor featuring the same contrast. The Chronomat 44 Raven special series reinvents the pilot’s chronograph in an original look dedicated to performance.

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Since its launch in 1984, the Chronomat has established itself as the reference among mechanical chronographs. A perfect embodiment of the Breitling philosophy, it combines a strong, unique and quintessential design with all the performances of an authentic “instrument for professionals”: precision, sturdiness, readability, functionality, as well as outstanding water resistance. This exceptional model is now issued in a special series accentuating its technical, masculine style.

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The satin-brushed steel case is entirely clad in black thanks to a high-resistance carbon-based coating matching the rubber strap. The unidirectional rotating bezel features orange rubber inlaid numerals creating a powerful and ultra-legible contrast. The same bright orange touches appear on the inner bezel, the chronograph seconds hand as well as the counter pointers.

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Visible through a transparent caseback, Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 also springs a surprise with its black oscillating weight enhanced with orange markings. Undeniably original from all angles, the Chronomat 44 Raven special series is equipped – like all Breitling instruments – with a selfwinding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), the highest benchmark in terms of reliability and precision. The embodiment of precision.

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Technical Specifications 

Reference: MB0111C2|BD07|153S|M20DSA.2

Movement: 
Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01.
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.
Selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour),
47 jewels,
Over 70-hour power reserve.
1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.
Calendar.
Case: 
Black steel
Screw-lock crown and pushpieces.
Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel.
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
Water-resistant: 200 m (660 ft).
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 16.95 mm
Dials: Onyx Black
Straps/bracelet: 
Rubber Ocean Racer,
Rubber Diver Pro III Black.
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Saturday, October 4, 2014

H. MOSER & CIE. – Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time



















H. MOSER & CIE.Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time NEW

H. Moser & Cie. exhibits entrepreneurial flair with the creation of the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time , an elegant watch bringing together very rare elements. The automatic manufacture calibre HMC 802 uses the first tourbillon ever developed by H. Moser & Cie. 

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This tourbillon is like no other thanks to two ingenious features invented by H. Moser & Cie. Firstly, the state-of-the-art Straumann Double Hairspring® further improves the accuracy and isochronism of the new in-house manufacture movement. Secondly, the Moser Interchangeable Tourbillon Module facilitates servicing with a unique construction. The result: the perfect combination of elegant and functional design.

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The Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time is a very rare timepiece. Its design is infused with elements from traditional pocket watches and the 1920s Bauhaus era, and it features a convex crystal seen in watches of the 1960s. The choice of features and functions is inspired by Heinrich Moser’s professional ventures in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the young Moser created complicated pocket watches for the Imperial Court.

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The Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time incorporates an exceptional dial that is cambered towards the edge of its surface following the curve of the sapphire glass and accentuating the finishing. The swallow-shaped hands are curved to follow the profile of the dial. Slender, elongated applied hour markers collaborate with the golden hour and minute hands to impart time with notable legibility. The bottom portion of the dial is stepped lower and features chamfering between the two surfaces to highlight the two dial levels. The resultant mien delivers a highly sophisticated, refined impression.

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The minute tourbillon, positioned at 6 o’clock, entices the eyes to view the inner workings of the automatic movement, the manufacture calibre HMC 802, visible behind the polished, open-worked gold tourbillon bridge. The crystal is convex in profile, accentuating the dial and tourbillon.

The dual time function is provided with an additional red hour-hand conveying the travel time, when needed. In keeping with the reserved character of H. Moser timepieces, the red hand can be hidden from view when it is not required via the crown.

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The crown features the Moser “M” and the curved lines of the satin-brushed area embellish the case band adjacent to highly-polished, sinuously-recessed flanks. The short horns entice the hand-stitched alligator strap and 18-carat gold folding clasp into a secure, comfortable union between the wearer and his cherished timepiece.

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Automatic calibre HMC 802 – A world first 

The HMC 802 is introduced with the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time. This movement represents another milestone for H. Moser & Cie., the entrepreneurial company that demonstrates ingenuity and technical excellence. Featuring a minute tourbillon, a dual-time function and a convenient self-winding system, the Tourbillon Dual Time runs at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. The unique construction of the Moser Interchangeable Tourbillon Module includes a Straumann Double Hairspring®. Indeed, it is this latter aspect which bestows enhanced accuracy and isochronism, two inherent qualit ies of the HMC 802.

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With its Moser Interchangeable Tourbillon module, the HMC 802 features a world first, harnessing “blue-sky thinking”. The module is assembled and regulated independently of the movement , with a simple “plug-and-play system”, facilitating servicing by a competent watchmaker without requiring tourbillon expertise.

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When the tourbillon was conceived in the 18th century for use in a pocket watch, the complication negated the effect of gravitational forces. The result conferred enhanced accuracy when the watch was held in a vertical plane. This is an objective which remains valid to this day. However, wristwatches are held in a multitude of positions in ordinary use, hence some of the benefits of a conventional tourbillon are lost. The Straumann Double Hairspring® ingeniously optimises accuracy with a pair of matched hairsprings, which the gravitational influence on each spring being countered by the opposing spring, irrespective of the position of the timepiece. This allows the centre of gravity to remain in the middle of the hairsprings, improving accuracy. In addition, the paired Straumann Hairsprings® also reduce the effect of friction normally experienced with a single hairspring, improving isochronism. The result is a tourbillon more appl icable to the needs of wearers in the 21st century.

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This critical component of the movement was developed together with Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. specialised in the development and production of hairsprings and escapements, at the same premises in Neuhausen am Rheinfall. This innovative double hairspring technology is featured in a limited number of other H. Moser timepieces.

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To power the movement automatically, a bi-directional pawl winding system transfers the energy from the 18-carat solid red gold rotor to the barrel. The system energises the mainspring when turning in either direction, reducing the time required to fully wind the watch. The HMC 802 has a minimum power reserve of three days.

The red-gold rotor features the H. Moser company hallmark and is open-worked to view the movement below. The rhodium-plated movement includes chamfered bridges, decorated with the famous Moser stripes and gold engraving. There is a deliberate gap between the bridges for a better view of the circular grained wheels of the gear train, indulging purists’ eyes with a view of the flawless finishing of the movement. The exceptional design of the tourbillon as a module, along with the open-worked tourbillon bridge and the screwed balance, stands testament to the no-compromise creation of the HMC 802.

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H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time – refined aesthetics and enhanced functionality 

The H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time represents the culmination of handsome, yet refined aesthetics and reveals a miniature mechanical world. It harnesses complications which enhance functionality. The mechanical ingenuity employed improves accuracy, isochronism and ease of servicing, and the fine craftsmanship confers years of enjoyment. Indeed, it is this array of attributes which makes this watch very rare.

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TECHNICAL FEATURES

Reference 2802-0200, White gold model, ardoise dial, black strap
Reference 2802-0400, Red gold model, red gold fumé dial, brown strap
Reference 2802-0401, Red gold model, argenté dial, brown strap 


Case
18-carat red or white gold, three-part
Diameter: 41.5 mm, height: 14.3 mm
Curved sapphire crystal and see-through sapphire crystal case back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M” 
Dial
Ardoise, red-gold fumé or argenté finish with a sunburst pattern
18-carat red and white gold hands and appliqué indexes
Two-layer dial with unique finishing on each layer and chamfered and polished edges 
Movement
In-house automatic calibre HMC 802
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Solid 18-carat red-gold rotor engraved with H. Moser & Cie. company hallmark
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
Minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised 18-carat gold bridges 
Functions
Hour and minute
Second time zone that can be hidden when not in use 
Strap
Hand-stitched brown or black alligator
Solid 18-carat red or white gold folding clasp, with engraved Moser logo.
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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