Sunday, September 14, 2014

TUDOR – Heritage Ranger



TUDOR Heritage Ranger

Inspired by a historic model, also named Ranger, which the brand produced in the late 1960s, this new model embodies the unique creative approach developed by TUDOR to showcase its heritage in 2010 with the launch of its Heritage Chrono. Far from being a mere re-edition, it is a distinct reinterpretation, a true temporal and stylistic encounter of past, present and future. The aesthetic codes that contributed to the renown of the historic models are preserved and injected with modern touches to update the iconic spirit of the models.

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As on the brand’s historic models, the lugs of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger are drilled through to accommodate the strap bars. Its matt black dial bearing the TUDOR Rose logo is domed, as is the crystal – typical features of the 1950s and 1960s TUDOR models – which give it a unique retro chic look.

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The 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock hour markers on the dial are not appliques as on the other models in the Heritage line, but painted with a coloured luminous substance for a warm and appealing antique effect. Its distinctive pear-shaped hands are directly inspired by the historic TUDOR Ranger models.

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A more contemporary size than its source of inspiration, the case of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger measures 41 mm in diameter and is entirely satin-finished. This finish was chosen to express the functionality, technical prowess and robustness of an object that could have been standard equipment in the packs of sled-dog mushers readying themselves to face the most extreme conditions in the far North.

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The large, satin-finished crown of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger, similar to that of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay, is engraved with the historic TUDOR Rose logo. It screws onto a protruding satin-finished tube, which further accentuates the technical sophistication of the watch.

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Four superbly crafted bracelets have been designed by TUDOR’s Style Workshop for the TUDOR Heritage Ranger. Each displaying its own strong personality, they contribute to underscoring this new model’s seamless blend into its environment.

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The first is a bund strap with satin-finished rivets. Cut from light brown leather, in spirit it subtly evokes the raw leather and the equipment used by adventurers of the far North. Its steel folding clasp is also entirely satin-finished and heightens the technical aura of the strap.

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The second is an adjustable and particularly comfortable fabric strap with a camouflage motif woven in green tones, chosen as an allusion to the vast forest-covered regions travelled by sled-dog teams.

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The third is made of tobacco coloured leather reminiscent of sled harnesses. It is also equipped with the TUDOR folding clasp in its satin-finished version.

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The fourth and last version, featuring the same clasp, is a bracelet entirely made of machined satin-finished steel.

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Its distinctive shape is a nod to the bracelets with tube-type attachments used by the brand in the 1950s, a period that witnessed numerous expeditions to the world’s most remote territories.

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Like the other models in the brand’s Heritage line, each TUDOR Heritage Ranger comes with a fabric strap as well as a second bracelet that may be chosen from among the three other available options.

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Technical Specifications
Year: 2014
Collection: Heritage
 
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Reference: 79910

Mouvement
Self-winding mechanical movement TUDOR 2824 calibre, 
Total diameter 26 mm
Height 4.60 mm
Jewels 25
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve ~38 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Case
41 mm - 12.2 mm 
Steel case with satin finish
Domed sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal with a red seal
Water-resistant: 150 metres (15 bar )
Dial
The 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock hour markers and indexes on the dial are painted with a coloured luminous substance for a warm and appealing antique effect. 
Crown
Screw-down winding crown in steel with the TUDOR rose in relief
Bracelet/strap
Steel bracelet, leather strap or bund strap with folding clasp and safety catch entirely satin-finished
Price: 2700 CHF

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Saturday, September 13, 2014

Maîtres du Temps – CHAPTER TWO Classique















Maîtres du TempsCHAPTER TWO Classique Red Gold
Limited Edition NEW


« He admired the perfect shape of his Chapter Two Classique. In particular the gold indexes, which seem like small ingots literally set on the deep black dial to mark the hours in impeccable manner while giving the watch a general design of a complex and refined architecture.

« He admired the perfect shape of his Chapter Two Classique. In particular the gold indexes, which seem like small ingots literally set on the deep black dial to mark the hours in impeccable manner while giving the watch a general design of a complex and refined architecture.

It reminded him of his first visit to New York, when on the corner of 5th Avenue and 34th Street he discovered the Empire State Building. Built in the 30’s and located in the heart of Manhattan, the Art Deco architecture gives  this 444 meters tall mythical building a mighty presence of incredible elegance. He was ten years old then and thirty years later this recollection was still clearly present in his memory.
He glanced at his watch once again. His daughter would finish school in five minutes. The two cylinders and big date of his watch indicated distinctively the date of the day: Monday, September 1st.  It was her tenth birthday and they would spend the rest of the day together to celebrate this precious event».

*    *    *
On the occasion of the 5th Anniversary of the launch of the Chapter Two Original, Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie is proud to present the Chapter Two Classique.
This new model underlines even stronger the architectural aspect of the collection through its Art Deco inspired dial on which the bold indices majestically indicate the hours.

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Collection Chapter Two: character and innovation

The Chapter Two collection features an instantaneous triple calendar displayed in large format thanks to the innovative high precision cylinders that in fact makes it the most legible mechanical calendar wristwatch in the world.
Its outstanding movement is imbedded in a shaped case that expresses the strength and character of this collection.

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Movement: Instantaneous Triple Calendar with Big Date

The technically revolutionary movement of the Chapter Two is the result of the unique know-how of Maîtres du Temps – Atelier d’Horlogerie and meets the highest requirement in terms of precision and performance. In particular, the driving mechanism of the cylinders required important cognitive development and innovative techniques. The performance of the instantaneous change of the big date and the displays positioned on the two cylinders at 6 o’clock (day) and at 12 o’clock (month) proves the quality of this innovative concept. 

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The most legible mechanical calendar in the world

Chapter Two features elegant central hour and minute hands in solid gold with diamond-cut facets finishing and a small second at 6 o’clock, the big date at 12 o’clock and the day and month indication in full words on their respective cylinders. The combination of the big date and the displayed days and months in full letters gives the Chapter Two a legibility never seen before on a triple calendar wristwatch.

High Precision Cylinders: resistance and lightness

The Cylinders represent the essential DNA of Maîtres du Temps. They are manufactured in Anticorodal, an alloy of manganese, aluminum and magnesium which is resistant to oxidation and corrosion.
The artisanal process of decoration of the cylinders requires several weeks of precise work, from the individual engraving of the day and month to the handmade coloring. Each step of the process needs a specific know-how and unique care.

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The Dial : The purity of Art Deco

Inspired by the architectural codes of the Art Deco style the dial reflects a supreme purity of the shapes. Everything is done to facilitate the legibility of time. Long indices in solid gold set on a smart Opalin finished surface clearly indicate the hours.
This original dial strengthens the character of the timepiece and makes it look elegant and classic.

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The Case and its finish: complexity and beauty

The fluidity of the design of the distinctive tonneau shaped case hides its complex architecture and sophisticated design. Every single aspect of this timepiece is the result of refined and meticulous work: the inner lines of the lugs follow the wavy curves of the case giving it a unique harmony, while the day, date and month correctors have their functions engraved to facilitate their simple use.
Six specially shaped sapphire crystals with anti-reflective surface treatment – three on top of the case and three on the case back – offer a unique visual access on the cylinders and the movement mechanism.
Looking through the octagon-shaped sapphire crystal of the display back into the beautifully decorated movement within, the eye is immediately drawn to the richly engraved symbolically goblet-shaped rotor of the automatic winding system. The intricate pannier guilloche decorating the rotor’s center provides a noble counterpoint to the text around the rotor’s periphery that reads Masters and Their Craft — A Lifelong Pursuit of Excellence.

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“The goblet symbolizes the spirit of collaboration. It is the vessel where each of our Atelier watchmakers’ contribution is combined into a superb blend of talents and passions. The result is rich and unique,” says Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps  – Atelier d’Horlogerie.

The richly hand-decorated movement features a veritable melody of harmonious fine finishing, from the sunray
Côtes de Genève on the bridges with their perfectly beveled edges, to the helical spirals and perlage on the mainplate, to the mirror-polished screw heads.

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*    *    *
After 5 years of success, the Chapter Two Classique line complements and extends the Chapter Two collection. At the same time it reinforces the timeless character of these exceptional timepieces.
And the Chapter Two story continues……..

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Technical Specifications

Model: CHAPTER TWO Classique

References:  C2T..55.21.255

Instantaneous triple calendar, big date, day indication on high-precision cylinder, month indication on high-precision cylinder, small seconds, automatic winding mechanical movement
Movement
Caliber SHC01 
Automatic winding mechanical movement
Symbolic goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, panier guilloche, and relief text
Dimensions: 45 mm x 32 mm x 9 mm
Number of components: 338
Number of jewels: 32
Power reserve: 50 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Finishing: sun-ray Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, colimaçonnage, and polished screw heads
Displays
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Sub-seconds at 6 o’clock
Big date at 12 o’clock
Day indication on high-precision cylinder at 6 o’clock
Month indication on high-precision cylinder at 12 o’clock 
Functions
Time: hours, minutes, seconds
Instantaneous triple calendar: big date, day, and month 
Correctors
Date corrector at 2 o’clock
Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
GMT corrector at 10 o’clock
Case
18K gold
Number of components: 49
Dimensions: 58 mm x 42 mm x 16 mm
Six sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating
High polish and brushed finishes on compound-curve surfaces
Dial
Number of dial components: 16
Smart Opalin surface finishing
Diamond-cut applied hour indices in 18K gold
Big date opening frame in 18K gold 
Hands
18K gold hands
Diamond-cut facets finishing 
Correctors
Day corrector on caseback bottom
Month corrector on caseback top
Big date corrector on side of case at 2 o’clock
Day and Month high-precision cylinders
Black anodized Anticorodal aluminum
Strap and buckle
Genuine hand-sewn alligator leather strap with 18K gold deployant buckle

* Specifications may change without notice.
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Contact
Maîtres du Temps Sarl
Rue Daniel Jeanrichard 18
CP 926
CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
Téléphone:     +41 32 911 17 17
Fax :        +41 32 911 17 18
presscenter@maitresdutemps.com
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www.Maitres du Temps.com