Thursday, August 14, 2014

Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Tourbillon Chronograph




AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Tourbillon Chronograph NEW

It was in 1993 that Audemars Piguet established a whole new category of sports watch with the ground-breaking Royal Oak Offshore. A natural evolution of the original, octagonal Royal Oak which took the watch world by storm in 1972, the supersized 'Offshore' was large, bold, rugged and highly functional.

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The thinking behind the design of its 42mm diameter case was to create a luxury sports watch which was virtually indestructible. A soft iron inner cage made it ultra-resistant to magnetism; a rubber coated crown and pushpieces combined with a visible gasket beneath the screwed-down bezel made the watch exceptionally waterproof - and the sheer volume of metal in the case provided the selfwinding movement with an unparalleled degree of protection.
It was not long before the Royal Oak Offshore attracted a cult following among horological aficionados, leading to its current status as one of the all-time greats of modern watch making which has been interpreted in numerous different configurations yet which has always retained its essential, original character.
One of the most dramatic and unexpected of those interpretations appeared in 2010 in the form of the first Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph featuring a hand-wound movement and a case incorporating forged carbon and ceramic.

Now, four years later, Audemars Piguet is proud to present an entirely new Royal Oak Offshore
Tourbillon Chronograph driven by the very latest, selfwinding Calibre 2897 which has been
especially developed to power it.
As mighty as the watch itself, the Calibre 2897 mechanism comprises 335 parts and can be
seen in all its glory through a sapphire crystal caseback. A true, micro mechanical work of art,
the movement is rich in components which have been bevelled, polished, chamfered and
decorated entirely by hand to create a shimmering play of light and shade.

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From an engineering perspective, too, the Calibre 2897 stands out: the automatic winding
system is driven by a peripheral oscillating weight made from satin-brushed, 950 platinum. The
calibre can be seen through a special aperture at the one o’clock position as well as through
the oscillating weight visible from the dial side.
Exceptional accuracy is ensured, meanwhile, through both the tourbillon mechanism and the
use of the column wheel system, which is widely regarded as being the most reliable and
precise of all chronograph configurations.
To protect this sublimely beautiful powerhouse, Audemars Piguet's designers have created a
very special version of the Royal Oak Offshore case based on modern, black coloured
materials: forged carbon for the middle,ceramic for the bezel, titanium and ceramic for the push
pieces and rubber for the strap.
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph: an exceptional blend of traditional
watch making savoir faire and high tech thinking.

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A MOVEMENT DESIGNED, DEVELOPED AND CREATED ENTIRELY IN-HOUSE

The Calibre 2897 movement was created entirely in-house by Audemars Piguet using the very
latest in horological technology combined with the classic watch making skills for which the
company has been renowned since its founding almost 140 years ago.
Everything from the rounded cut of the bridges to the S-shaped coupling yoke (traditional to the
watch making of the Vallée de Joux), the curves of the minute-counter bridge and the
characteristic toothing of the column wheel display a mechanical artistry that almost belies the
fact that the finished article is a precision mechanism capable of slicing time in to fragments of a
second.

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Audemars Piguet is one of the few remaining high-end watch makers to still use such a high
level of decoration, which includes classic finishes such as mirror polishing, hand chamfering,
circular graining and hand-drawing.
All of these are executed manually in a series of meticulous operations that account for as much as 30 per cent of the value of the finished timepiece.
The process takes many hundreds of hours before the master watch maker can perform an initial trial assembly in order to give first life to the newly created Calibre 2897 movement - after which everything is dismantled, meticulously cleaned and made ready for final assembly before being mounted in the 44mm Royal Oak Offshore case.



THE PERIPHERAL OSCILLATING WEIGHT - AN ELEGANT SOLUTION

The automatic winding mechanism of the new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph is driven by a peripheral oscillating weight made from 950 platinum and mounted on ball bearings, a design which shifts the mass of the rotor to the outer edge of the movement where it improves winding speed and, therefore, efficiency.
The size of the 180 degree oscillating weight has been specifically optimized, and the centre of the case recessed in order to allow the weight to rotate a full 360 degrees. Its position on the edge of the movement means the overall thickness of the watch is not increased, making for both a slimmer overall profile and allowing the exceptional chronograph mechanism to be clearly viewed through the sapphire crystal case back.

THE TOURBILLON - THE MOST ENTRANCING OF ALL HOROLOGICAL DEVICES

The tourbillon has long been considered the apotheosis of the watch maker's art and, although it was invented as long ago as the late 18th century, few makers today have the capability to create their own. One of the select few to have mastered the art is Audemars Piguet which has debuted more than 16 tourbillon-equipped movements and, in 1986, became the first maker to offer an ultra-thin, selfwinding tourbillon wrist watch.
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Designed to counter the effect of gravity on timekeeping, the tourbillon houses the escapement (the regulating organ of the watch) within a tiny, revolving carriage that spins on its axis once every minute, thus preventing the hairspring from remaining static and thus enhancing accuracy.
The tourbillon contained within the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph brings this historic device right in to the 21st century by way of a blackened, titanium bridge. It takes a master watch maker almost three days to assemble the tourbillon carriage, which comprises 85 parts yet weighs a mere 0.45 grammes.


 THE CHRONOGRAPH - A CONSTANTLY PERFECTED MECHANISM

Audemars Piguet is therefore a master of the chronograph - as seen in the fact that the firm's oldest piece in its heritage collection is an 1881 'foudroyante' version.
Over the centuries, it has consistently introduced solutions to the problems of chronograph design, making one of the smallest chronograph calibre in the form of a 22.5 mm model from 1886 and producing its first chronograph wrist watch as early as the 1920’s.
This long experience manifests itself in the instantly visible column wheel of the Calibre 2897 movement, which marks it out as being one of the finest mechanisms of its type and serves to perfectly co-ordinate the start, stop and re-set phases.
Observers of the complication in action will notice the perfect smoothness with which the chronograph hand takes off when timing begins - a result of the specially-developed coupling yoke principle which has been designed to eliminate the characteristic jerkiness of less efficient mechanisms.
Audemars Piguet's engineers have further refined the system by adding a shock-resisting hook. Meticulous hand assembly and adjustment of the chronograph components further enhance its smooth functionality by providing the pushpieces with an exceptional degree of 'feel'.

THE INIMITABLE DESIGN OF THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE COLLECTION

Few watches are as instantly recognisable as the Royal Oak Offshore - or as synonymous with a sporting, rugged lifestyle. On this version, connoisseurs of the Royal Oak Offshore will find the model's eight, trademark polished steel hexagonal screws nestling within the recesses of a black ceramic bezel, which has contrasting satin brushed and polished surfaces to provide exceptional definition of its clean-cut angles.
The powerful case middle is constructed from forged carbon - a material that was first brought to watch making from the aerospace industry by Audemars Piguet in the original Royal Oak Offshore back in 2007.
The pushpieces, meanwhile, are made from ceramic and titanium and set within separate, titanium guards which are secured to the main body of the case by four visible screws.
The dial of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph will also be familiar to aficionados of the range, being decorated with the established 'Mega Tapisserie' motif - and left open at the six o'clock position to provide a clear view of the tourbillon.
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph to be launched at the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong, will be produced in a numbered series of 50 pieces.

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Technical Specifications

Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Tourbillon Chronograph Limited Edition of 50

Réference: 26550AU.OO.A002CA.01

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 2897
with tourbillon and column-wheel chronograph
Total diameter 35mm (15½ lignes)
Total thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 34
Number of parts 335
Minimal guaranteed power reserve > 65 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations / hour)
Variable-inertia balance with screws and balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Finishing: all parts finely hand decorated; bridges and mainplate rhodiumed, circular-grained, beadblasted and hand-drawn with file strokes; polished angles, bevelled screw rims and slots
Peripheral oscillating weight in circular satin-brushed 950 platinum
CASE
Forged carbon case, glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback with Royal Oak Offshore engraving, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, titanium pushpiece guards.
Diameter : 44 mm
Thickness : 14 mm
DIAL
Black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, gold applied hour-markers and gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. Sapphire inner ring.
STRAP
Black rubber with titanium pin buckle
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter (at 3 o’clock)
Limited Edition of 50

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Wednesday, August 13, 2014

BREMONT – Lightweight E-Type Chronometer Edition


BREMONTLightweight E-Type Chronometer Limited Edition NEW


BREMONT and Jaguar to create a series of six unique wristwatch

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  • Jaguar and Bremont to create a series of six unique wrist watches
  • Bespoke chronometers will complement the six new Lightweight E-types being built by Jaguar Heritage to finalise original 1963 production run
  • 43mm watch features a black dial based on Lightweight E-type RPM gauge
  • Chamfered hour and minute hands replicate the instrument’s tachometer needle
  • Chassis number of the matching Lightweight E-type is printed at the six o’clock position
  • Each watch carries engine number of the car it is paired with
  • Aluminium saved from Lightweight E-type construction used in white gold cases
  • Bremont debuts first proprietary self-winding movement, beautifully finished with a 50hr power reserve and fitted with ‘steering wheel’ rotor
  • Winding crown engraved with the pattern of the period-correct Dunlop racing tyres to be fitted to the continuation Lightweights
  • Alloy-spoked Lightweight steering wheel with authentic wooden rim found at the back of each watch, forming part of the rotor
  • Watch will make its public debut alongside the new Lightweight E-type at Pebble Beach Concours D’Elegance 14 August 2014
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Today Jaguar announces further news in its relationship with the Bremont Watch Company and reveals one of six unique wristwatches to be offered to customers of the six new Lightweight E-types to be built by Jaguar Heritage.
“The Lightweight E-type project is so special that we thought we really needed to create something which complemented the cars and, since most classic enthusiasts also tend to be horophiles, a wristwatch seemed to be the answer,” says Jaguar’s director of design, Ian Callum.
Bremont was the obvious choice as a partner, both because we have worked closely together in the past on the clocks for the C-X75 and XJ75 Platinum concept cars and because, like Jaguar, it is a quintessentially British brand.”
“We didn’t want a watch that was too obvious in terms of design, but something which captured the spirit of the Lightweight in a subtle yet relevant way and I think Bremont has certainly achieved that goal.”
Giles English, who co-founded Bremont in 2002 with his brother, Nick, says the new Lightweight watches provided the firm with the perfect opportunity to take the important step of launching its own, proprietary movement.

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“We have been working on designing, developing and producing our first exclusive movement for more than a year, and it seems fitting that it is going to make one of its first appearances in this very special watch for Jaguar,” said Giles.

“Creating the watch proved to be a fascinating project, as we were given access to the Jaguar archives in order, for example, to ascertain the exact font for the numerals used on the dial of the original rev counters. The fact that we were required to make just six examples enabled us to be very creative in a way that is not always possible when designing a watch for larger scale production - and that’s why we have been able to feature touches such as using real wood for the rim of the ‘steering wheel’ winding rotor. Each watch is, essentially, bespoke.”

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Drawing inspiration directly from the car, the 43mm watch features a black dial based on the look of a Lightweight RPM gauge and featuring a subtle ‘red zone’ quadrant. The chamfered hour and minute hands replicate the instrument’s tachometer needle, while the chassis number of the relevant car is printed at the six o’clock position.

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The central band of the white gold case is made from aluminium saved during the construction of the new Lightweight body panels and will be anodised to match the colour of the car it is designed to complement.

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Other touches include a winding crown which is engraved with the pattern of the period-correct Dunlop racing tyres which will be fitted to the continuation Lightweights, and straps made from the same Connolly leather which is being used for the interior trim.

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Turning the watch over reveals a further reference to the car in the form of the automatic winding rotor - visible through a sapphire crystal case back - which takes the form of an exquisite miniaturisation of an alloy-spoked Lightweight steering wheel, complete with authentic wooden rim. The back of each watch also carries the engine number of the car it is paired with.

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Jaguar first collaborated with the Henley-on-Thames based watch company during the launch of the cutting edge Jaguar C-X75 in 2010, for which Bremont developed a unique, analogue dashboard clock in keeping with the 778 horsepower hybrid supercar’s futuristic nature and 205 mph performance.

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The two quintessentially British firms have now reinforced their partnership following the announcement earlier this year that Jaguar Land Rover’s Special Operations division would complete the Lightweight E-type project through its Jaguar heritage division.

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The new cars are the ‘missing’ six vehicles from the ‘Special GT E-type’ project, which originally started in February 1963 with the objective of building 18 cars. Only 12 of the aluminium-bodied Lightweight E-types were eventually built and the remaining six designated chassis numbers having lain dormant, until now. The six new cars will carry those original, historic Lightweight E-type chassis numbers.

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Each of the six cars will be built to the exact specification of the last Lightweight E-type produced in 1964 and will be hand-crafted at the original home of the E-type, Jaguar’s Browns Lane plant in Coventry, England. The cars will be sold as period competition vehicles and all will be suitable for FIA homologation for historic motorsport purposes.
A race winner in the hands of a variety of famous drivers during its short competitive career, the car has achieved worldwide fame and original examples are now valued in the many millions. In recreating the Lightweight E-type, Jaguar Heritage has been able to call on the superlative skills and experience of many talented engineers and technicians already working in a variety of departments within Jaguar.

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The launch of this exclusive Lightweight E-Type watch marks the start of a long term relationship for Jaguar and Bremont. Future editions will be announced at a later date.



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TEChNICAL FEATURES

MADE IN ENGLAND 

Model: BREMONT Lightweight E-Type Chronometer

Movement:
Self-winding movement  
Caliber: BWC/01 Bremont proprietary,
33.4mm Automatic with 25 jewels
Glucydur balance
Nivarox CT balance spring and Nivaflex 1 mainspring
Highly efficient double reverser bi-directional winding  mechanism to achieve 28,800bph and 50+ hour power reserve.
Rotor:  Jaguar ‘Steering Wheel’ rotor
Case:
43mm white gold Trip-Tick® case construction with aluminium centre ring made from material saved during Lightweight panel construction.
Case Back: Exhibition type with integrated domed crystal, secured with 4 polished headed screws.
Crystal: Domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal.
Water resistant to 10 ATM, 100 metres
Dial:
Black dial based on Lightweight rev counter and  marked with car chassis number.
Strap:
Connolly leather, as used for Lightweight upholstery. 

Limited edition of 6 pieces

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