Wednesday, March 26, 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Tri-Axial Tourbillon




GIRARD-PERREGAUX  Tri-Axial Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW



The Tri-Axial Tourbillon represents a major success for Girard-Perregaux, a historic specialist in the mastery of this precision watch mechanism. This is a new step for the Manufacture in its quest for chronometric perfection with a high-speed tourbillon on three separate axes.

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A complex mechanism aimed at optimizing chronometric precision, the tourbillon has been a specialty of Girard-Perregaux for over a century and a half. Once again, the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds demonstrates its mastery of the subject, taking its search for precision even further with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon.

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This development embodies the quintessence of time measurement based on the physical principle of the elimination of disturbances, the first being the Earth's gravitational pull. As it is designed on three planes instead of the traditional one, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon optimizes its performance and showcases a captivating spectacle.

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The external parts therefore needed to be specially adapted in order to integrate this extraordinary caliber. The tourbillon's triple cage required the integration of a domed lens that rests against the sapphire crystal in order to provide the necessary interior volume. 

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With the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux therefore delivers a brilliant demonstration of its expertise and its constant search for watchmaking excellence.

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Three axes
The Tri-Axial Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux features a regulator on three separate axes. At its heart beats a traditional tourbillon. Its cage performs one rotation in one minute.

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  It is integrated within a structure positioned on a second axis and performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. Finally, both are inserted into a third system. The ensemble is placed on a third axis and performs one rotation in 2 minutes. The diameter of the ensemble comes to 13.78 mm.

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With a total weight of 1.24 grams, the cage and the drive systems are made of steel. The support pillars are in titanium, or in pink gold to act as a counterweight where the kinetic balance required this. As for the balance, it integrates 16 pink gold adjustment micro-screws. It has an increased frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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Exceptional finishes
A masterpiece of modern engineering, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon caliber remains absolutely faithful to the purest of traditions. The cage adopts the lyre shape that has been characteristic of Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons since the 19th century. Haute Horlogerie timepieces demand components that are decorated and finished by hand with the greatest care. They therefore present mirror-polished surfaces and perfect chamfering (especially on a number of inward angles which are particularly difficult to finish).

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The gear train is circular-grained and the sides are satin-brushed. On the case-back, the eagle, the symbol of the manufacture since 1897, is engraved and a plaque in the arrow shape of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges' iconic bridges bears the individual number of each piece. This shape is also found on the emblematic gold bridges also visible on the back of the movement.

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laying hours, minutes and a time reserve indicator, the new GP09300 mechanical caliber with manual winding measures 36.10 mm in diameter with a height of 16.83 mm. It comprises 317 components and has a minimum power reserve of 52 hours.

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Multiple dial
Constructed on several levels, the dial of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon presents a wide aperture at 9 o'clock that reveals the hypnotic ballet of the regulation system.

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At half past one, a silver dial with Clous de Paris motif presents numerals and hour markers in pink gold. It is encircled with an applique in pink gold and a black flange that displays the minutes numerals in white. The beveled, skeleton-shaped dauphine hands are crafted from pink gold.

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Starting at the center of the watch, the power reserve indicator follows a curve that ends at 6 o'clock. Designed graphically to form an array of circles and curves, the dial presents concentric, regular stripes in the areas that have been left empty. Like Japanese zen stone gardens, these gray-colored areas counterbalance the clear technicality of the timepiece with their understatement and simplicity. Girard-Perregaux's initials gleam in pink gold at 11 o'clock.

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Complex sapphire crystal
Crafted from pink gold, the case respects the design codes of Girard-Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection with a beveled bezel, a rounded case-center and lugs that narrow out elegantly towards the exterior. The superior sapphire crystal presents a spectacular construction. At 9 o'clock, a domed sapphire crystal, designed to highlight the tourbillon's three axes, is applied to the main crystal, which is first pierced to the required diameter.

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 A toric-shaped sapphire crystal is also integrated into the side of the case at 9 o'clock in order to show this fascinating spectacle from another angle. Finally, the case-back, which is screwed and transparent, reveals the entire movement and, in particular, the satiny circular bridge engraved with the words "Tri-Axial" that supports the differential of the tourbillon system.

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The Tri-Axial Tourbillon is available in a 10-piece limited edition.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 99815-52-251-BA6A

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 48.00 mm
Dial: gray anthracite
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire with dome to cover the tourbillon
Case-back: anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal
Apertures on the side to reveal the movement / anti-reflective toric crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP09300-0001
Mechanical, manual winding movement
Diameter: 36.10 mm (16 ''')
Thickness: 16.83 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h - (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 52 hours
Jewels: 34
Number of components: whole movement: 317
Two-arrow Bridges: in pink gold
Tourbillon:
  • Tourbillon cage: 140 components for 1.24 g
  • 3 axes
  • One rotation every 1 minute on the first axis, every 30 seconds on the second axis, every 2 minutes on the third axis.
  • Poised upper and lower cages with pink gold counterpoise
  • Beveled and hand-polished pallets bridge
  • Balance wheel: variable inertia with pink gold setting screw
All components of the movement have hand finishing according to Haute Horlogerie criteria.
Functions: Tri-Axial tourbillon, hour, minute, power reserve indicator
Wristband
Black alligator leather strap with hand stitches
Pink gold folding buckle

Limited edition: 10-piece

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Tuesday, March 25, 2014

De Bethune – DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon















De BethuneDB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon NEW

Unique in watchmaking history

Introducing De Bethune’s neo-mechanics

Twelve years ago David Zanetta, an art lover and connoisseur of traditional watchmaking, and Denis  Flageollet, an innovative designer and constructor of watches, set up the De Bethune project, ranging from the development of watchmaking techniques to research applied to the horological arts.

Their research follows on from that undertaken by the great horologists of the age of enlightenment,
while assimilating the new technologies and materials to which the fundamental calculations and
principles of conventional mechanics have been applied.
The various innovations emanating from the De Bethune laboratory not only bear witness to these
intentions, they also express the conviction that there is much unexplored territory in the field of
watchmaking technology.
Work on the regulating organ that is at the heart of every watch obeys well-known physical
properties: inertia, mass, elasticity, surface friction and magnetism. Fundamental to the improved
precision and efficiency of watch movements are such technological advances as the patented
balance-spring with flat terminal curve, balance-wheels in silicon and white gold or in titanium and
platinum featuring maximum inertia for a minimum weight, as well as the development of a real
tourbillon for the wrist in silicon and titanium.
The DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon, the result of seven years of research and development, is the only
one of its kind. This exceptional patented chronograph, packed with innovations, embodies the
essence of De Bethune’s watchmaking.

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A mono-pusher chronograph

The rose-gold case of the DB29 with its smooth curves features the brand’s trademark cone-shaped
lugs. The double case back of this time-measuring instrument is fitted with an invisible hinge so as not
to detract from its clean lines. A single push button, coaxial with the crown at 3 o'clock, operates the
chronograph.

Five central hands

The design of the DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon’s dial with its five central hands aims to make it easier
and more attractive to read the chronograph indications by doing away with the small subdials of
the conventional chronograph. The hands that give this watch its identity are designed to follow the
different shapes and curves of the silver-toned dial. They are all in hand-polished steel that has been flame-blued by the company’s craftsmen, apart from the chronograph minutes hand, which is in
rose gold.

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Measuring long elapsed times: 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds

This instrument measures long elapsed times with counters for 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours.
The central chronograph hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system that
requires real technical expertise to achieve.
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Thanks to the precision ensured by the De Bethune 30-second Tourbillon in silicon and titanium
oscillating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour – one of the fastest and lightest on the market with
its 63 parts weighing a total of 0.18 grams – time is accurately measured and the maximum duration
of elapsed-time measurements amounts to a generous 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds.

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A push button at 4 o'clock opens the cover on the sapphire-crystal glass of a titanium case back to
reveal the modern construction of the calibre DB2039 movement with its polished steel bridges, the
tourbillon at 3 o'clock and the complex mechanism of an innovative time-measuring system
featuring three column-wheels.

De Bethune total clutch system: a patented chronograph invention

De Bethune’s research and development department has announced the filing of a patent
application n° CH00076/14 for the chronograph mechanism. De Bethune’s absolute clutch aims to
improve the performance of chronographs by correcting the faults identified in current mechanisms.
This mechanism makes the most of the advantages of the horizontal and vertical clutch systems
while eliminating their faults. It thus benefits from a marked reduction in the friction that affects the
movement both when the chronograph is running and when it is functioning without the
chronograph engaged.

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The absolute clutch operates in a system engaging the two traditional clutch methods to allow the
different chronograph counters to function semi-autonomously:
  •  The chronograph seconds are governed by the new absolute clutch system;
  •  The minutes counter is controlled by a shifting pinion;
  •  The hours counter is engaged by a horizontal clutch.
Three different types of clutch behind three semi-independent systems controlled by three
column-wheels thus govern the different chronograph elapsed-time counters.

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In this way De Bethune marks a significant technological breakthrough in the history of
chronographs, the result of continuous research heralded by the DB21 Maxichrono in 2006. Constant
innovation relying on an extensive knowledge of age-old expertise has enabled the brand to simplify
and enhance the reliability of the absolute clutch system so that it can be implemented in a
movement manufactured by the production workshops in the Swiss village of L’Auberson.

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Technical Specifications

Ref: DB29RS1 DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon

Calibre DB 2039
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: hours – minutes – mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour,
60-minute and 60-second Counters – De Bethune Tourbillon 30″ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph
Diameter 30 mm – 410 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – hand-polished steel –
3 columns wheels
De Bethune absolute clutch *
Self-regulating twin barrel *
Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph*
Silicon escape whee
l*
Jewelling: 49 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents

Fonctions
Hours and Minutes
Mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour, 60-minute and 60-second counters
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon
Movement
Calibre DB2039 – Mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 5 days
Case
5N rose gold – round-shaped – diameter 46 mm – thickness 11.70 mm
Attachments: cone-shaped lugs
Glass: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 3 o’clock – mono-pusher button – setting in 2 positions – push button for the double back at 4 o’clock
Back: open – sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment – De Bethune tourbillon 30′′ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph – chronograph calibre with hand-polished bridges
Double back: solid with invisible hinge – 5N rose gold
Display
Dial: silver-toned – the architecture of the dial is constructed on different levels; some are curved to maximize the visibility. From the centre to the periphery : central hours counter – hours inner ring – minutes ring and minutes counter – outer ring with chronograph seconds indication
Hands: 5 curved central hands – hand-polished and flame-blued steel for hours and minutes hands and hours and seconds chronograph indicators – minutes chronograph indicator in rose gold
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

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Press release - Geneva 2014
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